CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures, updated!!
- Thread starter darkzero
- Start date
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Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
That is one beautiful mod and an excellent piece of workmanship, you can see the love and care that's gone into creating it and you have every right to be proud. I'm particularly impressed at how you got the board out without drilling.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
That is one beautiful mod and an excellent piece of workmanship, you can see the love and care that's gone into creating it and you have every right to be proud. I'm particularly impressed at how you got the board out without drilling.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
14C
Enlightened
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
Very nice. Quality work. I modded a CMG Infinity with a Q bin 1 Watt from LEDSupply. Not near as nice as yours but it does put out a round flood with no hot spot like the stock LED. I used the original driver board. Wish I had known you can heat the head and press out the board.
Very nice. Quality work. I modded a CMG Infinity with a Q bin 1 Watt from LEDSupply. Not near as nice as yours but it does put out a round flood with no hot spot like the stock LED. I used the original driver board. Wish I had known you can heat the head and press out the board.
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
[ QUOTE ]
jamaica said:
darkzero --
Very nice! What's that reflector I see? Is that stock on the Ultra-G? It looks almmost like stainless steel.
Jamaica
[/ QUOTE ]
Well the reflector shape is there stock but it's anodized with the rest of the body. I sanded the anodizing off (real PITA!) and then polished it give a nice shine.
[ QUOTE ]
jamaica said:
darkzero --
Very nice! What's that reflector I see? Is that stock on the Ultra-G? It looks almmost like stainless steel.
Jamaica
[/ QUOTE ]
Well the reflector shape is there stock but it's anodized with the rest of the body. I sanded the anodizing off (real PITA!) and then polished it give a nice shine.
utomatoe
Enlightened
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
Amazing... where's the pre-order list? Haha, naw, I'll wait for my VIP.
Amazing... where's the pre-order list? Haha, naw, I'll wait for my VIP.
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
Will, thanks again for the pics.
First I have to say "Please excuse me my poor English." I need to take some ESL class.
I intended to make the post after I had my mod done. But as seeing so many posts on coming, I changed my mind to share some of my experience before that(becaus I don't know when I can have it done).
1) In order to remove the circuit board out of the bezel, after triming the rolling edge, we can put the head of the Infinity(not yours) into some boiling water(I read this somewhere in this forum, can't find it again). In this way, we never worry the components are overheated. After a couple of minute, we can try to apply force to the LED to pushing it out from the bezel. If it is still too firm, replace the water with some fresh boiled and try again.
2) To remove the epoxy, again we put the circuit board into some boiling water, use a small paint brush, brushing, twisting and rotating the brush on the circuit board and the components. The epoxy would stick onto the brush and make the brush sticky and can't go on cleaning. Put the brush into some isopropyl rubbing alcohol, the epoxy would dissolve very fast and the brush returns clean and is ready to use again. Repeatly the use of boiling water and brush the circuit board until the epoxy is completely removed(don't put your fingers into the water, it is boiling hot).
3) As koala(CPF member) mentioned on his post, the circuit board is a Zetex circuit board. He removed the resistor and replaced with a 32 ga. wire and drived the 1 watt LS with this circuit. After reading his post and links, I soldered the wire without removing the resistor to save some work(it made no difference to resistance) and the effect was so good. I compared it with the flashlights I had on hand. With 1 fresh AA cell, CMG Infinity mod circuit board, NX50 optic, it was out and away the brightness of the Infinity Ultra Government and Tekna Splash-Lite 1 CR123, and was about the same of the Streamlight TwinTask 2D, 5 LED. I then supplied the power with a CR123(yes, 3 volt), it won the Streamlight TT 2D, 10 LED by a long shot and probably was the same or 95% as the Lamda Ill Pill, 1 CR123. Be careful with your fingers again, the emitter is burning hot.
4) One thing worths to try out is to replace the inductor. On the Zetex website, there is a new circuit to drive 1W LED with the ZXS310. The recommanded inductor is Coilcraft DO3316P-223. From Coilcraft, I get the spec. 22uH, DCR 0.085 Ohm, Isat 2.6A. Also from Zetex, I have an old circuit diagram, which I believe is used in the Infinity, of the ZXS300 to drive a bright LED. The recommanded inductor is DO1608P-104, which is 100uH, DCR 0.48 Ohm and Isat 0.13A. If I am correct then the coil on the circuit board is far below the LS needs. The Digi-Key doesn't have the Coilcraft. I am looking for a substitute. I know Digi-Key is selling some other make. But I would like to test my handmade coil first. I have some ferrite bead from Digi-Key only D 3.30mm, L 5.74mm(0.236"). I made a coil and it works fine on an Ill Pill replacing the comparative huge toroid coil.
5) One thing koala mentioned about was that the LS could not start up when the voltage was below 1.2V(AA alka) in his mod due to the demand of high current by the LS. But in my mod(circuit only), I can start up the LS with an almost dry out AA alk(burnt 8+ hr in an Infinity G and some burnt of the LS with the mod circuit). The brightness is dim though, about half of the Infinity G. with fresh battery, but I don't know how long it can last.
I don't have adequate tools at present, not even have a multimeter. But I've just ordered some, once I get them I will do the measuring of current and voltage. But one thing I am sure now is that my though at the very beginning is completely right. We can have the minimum cost to modify the Infinity with best result. According to the ZXSC300 spec., we can drive the circuit with voltage from 0.8V to 8V. With the form factor of the Infinity, we can use 1 AA alk or L, 1 CR2, all depend on your need-cheap battery, longevity of in shelf reserve or maximum brightness. Might be we can drive a 5W LS with 2 CR2, or use the AA L 3.6V to fit any LS. I will do the experiments in the future(I just made a test drive the 1W LS with 2 CR123, 6V!!!. It was incredible bright. But I just connected for a couple of second, no heatsink yet, I didn't want it burnt).
The Infinity is superio to the other lights to mod is that its low cost, $11 to $15, and we don't even need to spend a dime on the circuit board. Compare with the others, they not only cost some money but can't start up with 1 cell. Some circuits are of 1 cell, but they are so dim. The Infinity board can drive the LS from a single AA cell to 2 CR2(need to measure the Vout and Iout).
I am glad to see some knowledge people here can do the above mentioned mod and share the experience with us. And I have to say thanks to darkzero and koala. They both gave me a lot of ideas and experience in their posts.
Will, thanks again for the pics.
First I have to say "Please excuse me my poor English." I need to take some ESL class.
I intended to make the post after I had my mod done. But as seeing so many posts on coming, I changed my mind to share some of my experience before that(becaus I don't know when I can have it done).
1) In order to remove the circuit board out of the bezel, after triming the rolling edge, we can put the head of the Infinity(not yours) into some boiling water(I read this somewhere in this forum, can't find it again). In this way, we never worry the components are overheated. After a couple of minute, we can try to apply force to the LED to pushing it out from the bezel. If it is still too firm, replace the water with some fresh boiled and try again.
2) To remove the epoxy, again we put the circuit board into some boiling water, use a small paint brush, brushing, twisting and rotating the brush on the circuit board and the components. The epoxy would stick onto the brush and make the brush sticky and can't go on cleaning. Put the brush into some isopropyl rubbing alcohol, the epoxy would dissolve very fast and the brush returns clean and is ready to use again. Repeatly the use of boiling water and brush the circuit board until the epoxy is completely removed(don't put your fingers into the water, it is boiling hot).
3) As koala(CPF member) mentioned on his post, the circuit board is a Zetex circuit board. He removed the resistor and replaced with a 32 ga. wire and drived the 1 watt LS with this circuit. After reading his post and links, I soldered the wire without removing the resistor to save some work(it made no difference to resistance) and the effect was so good. I compared it with the flashlights I had on hand. With 1 fresh AA cell, CMG Infinity mod circuit board, NX50 optic, it was out and away the brightness of the Infinity Ultra Government and Tekna Splash-Lite 1 CR123, and was about the same of the Streamlight TwinTask 2D, 5 LED. I then supplied the power with a CR123(yes, 3 volt), it won the Streamlight TT 2D, 10 LED by a long shot and probably was the same or 95% as the Lamda Ill Pill, 1 CR123. Be careful with your fingers again, the emitter is burning hot.
4) One thing worths to try out is to replace the inductor. On the Zetex website, there is a new circuit to drive 1W LED with the ZXS310. The recommanded inductor is Coilcraft DO3316P-223. From Coilcraft, I get the spec. 22uH, DCR 0.085 Ohm, Isat 2.6A. Also from Zetex, I have an old circuit diagram, which I believe is used in the Infinity, of the ZXS300 to drive a bright LED. The recommanded inductor is DO1608P-104, which is 100uH, DCR 0.48 Ohm and Isat 0.13A. If I am correct then the coil on the circuit board is far below the LS needs. The Digi-Key doesn't have the Coilcraft. I am looking for a substitute. I know Digi-Key is selling some other make. But I would like to test my handmade coil first. I have some ferrite bead from Digi-Key only D 3.30mm, L 5.74mm(0.236"). I made a coil and it works fine on an Ill Pill replacing the comparative huge toroid coil.
5) One thing koala mentioned about was that the LS could not start up when the voltage was below 1.2V(AA alka) in his mod due to the demand of high current by the LS. But in my mod(circuit only), I can start up the LS with an almost dry out AA alk(burnt 8+ hr in an Infinity G and some burnt of the LS with the mod circuit). The brightness is dim though, about half of the Infinity G. with fresh battery, but I don't know how long it can last.
I don't have adequate tools at present, not even have a multimeter. But I've just ordered some, once I get them I will do the measuring of current and voltage. But one thing I am sure now is that my though at the very beginning is completely right. We can have the minimum cost to modify the Infinity with best result. According to the ZXSC300 spec., we can drive the circuit with voltage from 0.8V to 8V. With the form factor of the Infinity, we can use 1 AA alk or L, 1 CR2, all depend on your need-cheap battery, longevity of in shelf reserve or maximum brightness. Might be we can drive a 5W LS with 2 CR2, or use the AA L 3.6V to fit any LS. I will do the experiments in the future(I just made a test drive the 1W LS with 2 CR123, 6V!!!. It was incredible bright. But I just connected for a couple of second, no heatsink yet, I didn't want it burnt).
The Infinity is superio to the other lights to mod is that its low cost, $11 to $15, and we don't even need to spend a dime on the circuit board. Compare with the others, they not only cost some money but can't start up with 1 cell. Some circuits are of 1 cell, but they are so dim. The Infinity board can drive the LS from a single AA cell to 2 CR2(need to measure the Vout and Iout).
I am glad to see some knowledge people here can do the above mentioned mod and share the experience with us. And I have to say thanks to darkzero and koala. They both gave me a lot of ideas and experience in their posts.
14C
Enlightened
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
mike101, great information!
You said:
"If I am correct then the coil on the circuit board is far below the LS needs. The Digi-Key doesn't have the Coilcraft. I am looking for a substitute."
Maybe this link will lead you to the coils you need:
Chokes and Coils
mike101, great information!
You said:
"If I am correct then the coil on the circuit board is far below the LS needs. The Digi-Key doesn't have the Coilcraft. I am looking for a substitute."
Maybe this link will lead you to the coils you need:
Chokes and Coils
koala
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
I am really amazed by darkzero's shiny bezels. Nicely polished, looks like what infinity should really be. The addition of kroll makes this light semi tactical plus a simple switch on compared to the tight twist. A good job on functioning and design. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif
I believe you might also like to look in to Led Dorcy AA, it seems to be a good host for a luxeon mod.
[ QUOTE ]
As koala(CPF member) mentioned on his post..
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes koala is a cpf member, not from the zoo or trees. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
[ QUOTE ]
the circuit board is a Zetex circuit board..
[/ QUOTE ]
First time I read about it was from a japanese forum, I think it was FlashlightFan.
[ QUOTE ]
share the experience..
[/ QUOTE ]
is what CPF all about... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif we are waiting to see your post on your infinity mod.
I am really amazed by darkzero's shiny bezels. Nicely polished, looks like what infinity should really be. The addition of kroll makes this light semi tactical plus a simple switch on compared to the tight twist. A good job on functioning and design. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif
I believe you might also like to look in to Led Dorcy AA, it seems to be a good host for a luxeon mod.
[ QUOTE ]
As koala(CPF member) mentioned on his post..
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes koala is a cpf member, not from the zoo or trees. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
[ QUOTE ]
the circuit board is a Zetex circuit board..
[/ QUOTE ]
First time I read about it was from a japanese forum, I think it was FlashlightFan.
[ QUOTE ]
share the experience..
[/ QUOTE ]
is what CPF all about... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif we are waiting to see your post on your infinity mod.
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
14C, thanks for the link.
Correction, in my last post the inductor DO1608P-104 that I copied from the Zetex page, I didn't find in the Coilcraft page, but I found a DO1608C-104 and DS1608C-104. I also made a mistake on the Isat, it should be 0.31A, not 0.13A. Sorry.
I just got to the link Chokes and Coils but couldn't find the suitable one and they didn't provide detail spec. Instead I found a lot on Digi-Key made by the Sumida Corp. Below I list those parts they are in stock and can be sold in single piece:
Digi-Key Part#---DCR(ohm)-uH---I(A)---L-----W------H---Prize
308-1020-1-ND----0.07-----22---2.2---11.6--12.6---5.4---2.59
308-1050-1-ND----0.036----22---2.8---12.0--12.0---6.0---2.13
308-1081-1-ND----0.0432---22---3.6---12.0--12.0---8.0---3.05
308-1131-1-ND----0.09-----22---1.71---9.2--10.0---5.0---1.56
308-1177-1-ND----0.11-----22---1.23---7.3---7.3---4.5---1.49
308-1228-1-ND----0.128----22---1.2----6.7---6.7---3.0---1.10
308-1241-1-ND----0.11-----22---1.5----7.0---7.8---5.0---1.46
For comparision,
Coilcraft Part #
DO1608C-104------1.27----100---0.31---6.6---4.45--2.92
DO3316P-223------0.085----22---2.6---12.95--9.4---5.1
With the calculating tool provided by Coilcraft page, I figured that for the Zetex circuit, we only need L(min uH) 9.29, I(sat A) 1.88. If no mistake, then we can reduce the inductor in size.
For those who want to buy the inductors, please verify the spec before order, I can't guarantee the accuracy of the numbers here. They are only for reference.
Can someone show me how to turn on the html? So I can align and format the typing. Thanks.
14C, thanks for the link.
Correction, in my last post the inductor DO1608P-104 that I copied from the Zetex page, I didn't find in the Coilcraft page, but I found a DO1608C-104 and DS1608C-104. I also made a mistake on the Isat, it should be 0.31A, not 0.13A. Sorry.
I just got to the link Chokes and Coils but couldn't find the suitable one and they didn't provide detail spec. Instead I found a lot on Digi-Key made by the Sumida Corp. Below I list those parts they are in stock and can be sold in single piece:
Digi-Key Part#---DCR(ohm)-uH---I(A)---L-----W------H---Prize
308-1020-1-ND----0.07-----22---2.2---11.6--12.6---5.4---2.59
308-1050-1-ND----0.036----22---2.8---12.0--12.0---6.0---2.13
308-1081-1-ND----0.0432---22---3.6---12.0--12.0---8.0---3.05
308-1131-1-ND----0.09-----22---1.71---9.2--10.0---5.0---1.56
308-1177-1-ND----0.11-----22---1.23---7.3---7.3---4.5---1.49
308-1228-1-ND----0.128----22---1.2----6.7---6.7---3.0---1.10
308-1241-1-ND----0.11-----22---1.5----7.0---7.8---5.0---1.46
For comparision,
Coilcraft Part #
DO1608C-104------1.27----100---0.31---6.6---4.45--2.92
DO3316P-223------0.085----22---2.6---12.95--9.4---5.1
With the calculating tool provided by Coilcraft page, I figured that for the Zetex circuit, we only need L(min uH) 9.29, I(sat A) 1.88. If no mistake, then we can reduce the inductor in size.
For those who want to buy the inductors, please verify the spec before order, I can't guarantee the accuracy of the numbers here. They are only for reference.
Can someone show me how to turn on the html? So I can align and format the typing. Thanks.
Justintoxicated
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
DarkZero, I Love this mod!
I want to do it also, but I have no idea what all is needed. I have a dremel and sanding bits, or grinding bits...
Did you Polish the reflector or modify it in any way? What all do I need to bore out and how hard is it to get a sandwitch to fit?
Or is this a secreat because you want to build me one already made?
I doubt the stock circuit will work for me, since I want to be able to pull about 700ma from it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
DarkZero, I Love this mod!
I want to do it also, but I have no idea what all is needed. I have a dremel and sanding bits, or grinding bits...
Did you Polish the reflector or modify it in any way? What all do I need to bore out and how hard is it to get a sandwitch to fit?
Or is this a secreat because you want to build me one already made?
I doubt the stock circuit will work for me, since I want to be able to pull about 700ma from it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
mike101, let me start of by saying Welcome! Second, "Please excuse me my poor English. I need to take some ESL class", for what?? If you learned English as a second language, I must give you alot of credit. English is a hard language to learn if it's not your primary. I think you know more English than me, hehe. Third, as you said in your e-mail regarding "hope your not dissapointing me".....no way in hell and I wouldn't think of it. I always love to see what others have to share and I'm really anxious to see how your nice mod is when finished.
Sorry, I can't comment anything about the stock Zetex circuit since I don't know much about it except that it did run fine on 3V (CR2) battery in it's stock form with stock LED.
Please keep in mind that triming the rolled edge will play a role on putting you mod back together. When I tried "un-crimping/rolling" the edge, it basically broke off when attempting to so I then cut the rest off. If your gonna use the stock circuit after modding it, your gonna have to find a way to do so. The rolled edge serves as the negative connection for the circuit as well as helps keep it in place along with the epoxy.
As for softening up the epoxy and using a brush to clean it up. If you get the epoxy to the right temp you can actually lift off chunks of it with a toothpick, etc. which would be a whole lot, easier, faster, and cleaner than getting the epoxy to higher temps making it more "gooey". Carefull not to pull off any SMD components when doing so if at too cool of a temp.
mike101, let me start of by saying Welcome! Second, "Please excuse me my poor English. I need to take some ESL class", for what?? If you learned English as a second language, I must give you alot of credit. English is a hard language to learn if it's not your primary. I think you know more English than me, hehe. Third, as you said in your e-mail regarding "hope your not dissapointing me".....no way in hell and I wouldn't think of it. I always love to see what others have to share and I'm really anxious to see how your nice mod is when finished.
Sorry, I can't comment anything about the stock Zetex circuit since I don't know much about it except that it did run fine on 3V (CR2) battery in it's stock form with stock LED.
Please keep in mind that triming the rolled edge will play a role on putting you mod back together. When I tried "un-crimping/rolling" the edge, it basically broke off when attempting to so I then cut the rest off. If your gonna use the stock circuit after modding it, your gonna have to find a way to do so. The rolled edge serves as the negative connection for the circuit as well as helps keep it in place along with the epoxy.
As for softening up the epoxy and using a brush to clean it up. If you get the epoxy to the right temp you can actually lift off chunks of it with a toothpick, etc. which would be a whole lot, easier, faster, and cleaner than getting the epoxy to higher temps making it more "gooey". Carefull not to pull off any SMD components when doing so if at too cool of a temp.
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
Justintoxicated, this was one of my first "real" mods and the hardest one I ever done. It was hard because the things required to be done for the mod should have been done with a lathe. Instead I went out and did all the boring freehand with a Dremel. This is the main reason why I cherish this mod so much. It was a hell of a lot of work and I don't think I will ever do it the way I did again. I would like to make another but not until I get a lathe.
I'll take some more pictures over the weekend to further explain what I needed to bore to complete this mod.
Yes, I polished the reflector. It was a royal pain in the ***. With a McFlood that is EN plated, wet-sanding with 320-400 grit gets through the plating after a while. On this one, 150-200 wasn't doing a very good job. Now I know why they call it hard anodizing! I had to use a Dremel to get the anodizing off at the same time being careful not to change the parabolic shape of the reflector. I then continued wet-sanding with 400, 600, and onto 1500. Then I polished it with the polished mentioned in my initial thread.
Justintoxicated, this was one of my first "real" mods and the hardest one I ever done. It was hard because the things required to be done for the mod should have been done with a lathe. Instead I went out and did all the boring freehand with a Dremel. This is the main reason why I cherish this mod so much. It was a hell of a lot of work and I don't think I will ever do it the way I did again. I would like to make another but not until I get a lathe.
I'll take some more pictures over the weekend to further explain what I needed to bore to complete this mod.
Yes, I polished the reflector. It was a royal pain in the ***. With a McFlood that is EN plated, wet-sanding with 320-400 grit gets through the plating after a while. On this one, 150-200 wasn't doing a very good job. Now I know why they call it hard anodizing! I had to use a Dremel to get the anodizing off at the same time being careful not to change the parabolic shape of the reflector. I then continued wet-sanding with 400, 600, and onto 1500. Then I polished it with the polished mentioned in my initial thread.
Justintoxicated
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
Hand Sanding is a real paint, they do make dremel polishing bits...Did you use red then white rouge to polish it or just fine sandpaper, It looks REAL nice...
I remember trying to polish the cylinders on my ATV by hand, so many tight spots I have up after 600 grit and painted tehm with metalcast (annodizing paint instead). it sounds like polishing was the hardest part. If you get the pictures I think I will print them out and cheat (I.E. Hav eit done at my dads work) But I will have to hand polish myself...I don't have any rouge and for such a small part I would hate to buy some, but maybe One of my ATV friends will have some...Usualy the polishing is done after wet sanding with 1500-2000 it makes a huge difference, but yours appears shiny without it?
EDit: Whew I thoguht you were going to make me buy one to try to figure it out! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
Hand Sanding is a real paint, they do make dremel polishing bits...Did you use red then white rouge to polish it or just fine sandpaper, It looks REAL nice...
I remember trying to polish the cylinders on my ATV by hand, so many tight spots I have up after 600 grit and painted tehm with metalcast (annodizing paint instead). it sounds like polishing was the hardest part. If you get the pictures I think I will print them out and cheat (I.E. Hav eit done at my dads work) But I will have to hand polish myself...I don't have any rouge and for such a small part I would hate to buy some, but maybe One of my ATV friends will have some...Usualy the polishing is done after wet sanding with 1500-2000 it makes a huge difference, but yours appears shiny without it?
EDit: Whew I thoguht you were going to make me buy one to try to figure it out! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
[ QUOTE ]
Justintoxicated said:
Whew I thoguht you were going to make me buy one to try to figure it out! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
LOL, naw I wouldn't do that to you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
Yeah that's what I did, wet-sanded with 1500 then polished it by hand with Master Formula polish. On things this small, I get better results doing it all by hand and not needing to use those Dremel "rubber" or felt polishing bits.
[ QUOTE ]
Justintoxicated said:
Whew I thoguht you were going to make me buy one to try to figure it out! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
LOL, naw I wouldn't do that to you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
Yeah that's what I did, wet-sanded with 1500 then polished it by hand with Master Formula polish. On things this small, I get better results doing it all by hand and not needing to use those Dremel "rubber" or felt polishing bits.
Justintoxicated
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
I usualy use mothers aluminum polish (not to be used on chrome), but using red, then white rouge is always provides better results...1500, red rouge, white rouge, then aluminum polish /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I may have spelled that wrong, I'll see if I can find homeboys Engine Picks.
I usualy use mothers aluminum polish (not to be used on chrome), but using red, then white rouge is always provides better results...1500, red rouge, white rouge, then aluminum polish /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I may have spelled that wrong, I'll see if I can find homeboys Engine Picks.
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
darkzero, when you know that I spent 5+ hours to finish my first post, you would understand that English is so difficult to me.
I think toothbrush is too much in hardness for the job and might damage the SMD components. A paint brush, not that kind you use to paint your house but that kind Picasso would use to paint his valuable painting, about half inch in width , not too soft nor too hard, just fit. And the brush on the paintbrush is longer that you can bend and twist and make it reach to some place where the toothbrush can't. By placing the head(not my own, the Infinity) into the boiling water, and brushing with the paintbrush, I felt I was an artist. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif BTW how do I addin those Graemlins? The temperature of boiling water is just hot enough to make the epoxy melt and stick to the brush. I cleaned up the head thoroughly without leaving a dust of epoxy in less than 10 minutes excluding the time to boil water. When you look at the board, you can't tell it once was covered with epoxy. I made some pictures but don't know how to post them(I don't have a website).
I am waiting for my Dremel and multimeter. Once I get them, I will fisrt measure the voltage, current and resistance. No, I can't measure 0.015 ohm with that cheap meter, can I? Then I will make a heatsink/mount-board for the emitter. At the meantime I am playing with the circuit board and found something interest. Please see my next post.
darkzero, when you know that I spent 5+ hours to finish my first post, you would understand that English is so difficult to me.
I think toothbrush is too much in hardness for the job and might damage the SMD components. A paint brush, not that kind you use to paint your house but that kind Picasso would use to paint his valuable painting, about half inch in width , not too soft nor too hard, just fit. And the brush on the paintbrush is longer that you can bend and twist and make it reach to some place where the toothbrush can't. By placing the head(not my own, the Infinity) into the boiling water, and brushing with the paintbrush, I felt I was an artist. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif BTW how do I addin those Graemlins? The temperature of boiling water is just hot enough to make the epoxy melt and stick to the brush. I cleaned up the head thoroughly without leaving a dust of epoxy in less than 10 minutes excluding the time to boil water. When you look at the board, you can't tell it once was covered with epoxy. I made some pictures but don't know how to post them(I don't have a website).
I am waiting for my Dremel and multimeter. Once I get them, I will fisrt measure the voltage, current and resistance. No, I can't measure 0.015 ohm with that cheap meter, can I? Then I will make a heatsink/mount-board for the emitter. At the meantime I am playing with the circuit board and found something interest. Please see my next post.
Justintoxicated
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: CMG Infinity Mod.....Lots of Pictures!!
hey DZ, I tried to remove the board from the head, I heated it up on my stove and tried to push on the LED to get it out and the LED Cap poped right off /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Luckily this was on a dead infinity anyways and I believe the LED was the problem. I may have overheated the circuit board though who knows?
Anyway the board would not budge at all!
Then I read I have to remove the rolling lip first /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Anyways, what am I supposed to do to remove the rolling bead on the head?
hey DZ, I tried to remove the board from the head, I heated it up on my stove and tried to push on the LED to get it out and the LED Cap poped right off /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Luckily this was on a dead infinity anyways and I believe the LED was the problem. I may have overheated the circuit board though who knows?
Anyway the board would not budge at all!
Then I read I have to remove the rolling lip first /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Anyways, what am I supposed to do to remove the rolling bead on the head?
