It's mainly for orings/seals.
http://www.wainbee.com/msds1/parker_SuperLube.pdf
http://www.anchorrubber.com/specialty/parker_o-lube.pdf
Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread
- Thread starter Tekno_Cowboy
- Start date
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It's mainly for orings/seals.
http://www.wainbee.com/msds1/parker_SuperLube.pdf
http://www.anchorrubber.com/specialty/parker_o-lube.pdf
Great thread, thanks for the pointers to places where i can get the lubes, spent some time in a local hardware shop, couldnt find any 
that's singapore for you (when it comes to flashaholicism)
anyway, to chip in a bit here, i bought a set of these microfiber cloths for my wife to polish her patent leather shoes, it's cheap, not too big a size and free shipping too. You could just use one of the cloths to clean a whole load of lights and just chuck it, instead of having one of those huge microfiber cloths and have to store it and look for clean spots to use etc. For $1.80 its a steal.
EDIT: technically this post isnt about grease or lubes but i'm thinking its ancillary to it, to be used in the cleaning process so that's why i think its relevant but feel free to delete it if you're of a different opinion
that's singapore for you (when it comes to flashaholicism)anyway, to chip in a bit here, i bought a set of these microfiber cloths for my wife to polish her patent leather shoes, it's cheap, not too big a size and free shipping too. You could just use one of the cloths to clean a whole load of lights and just chuck it, instead of having one of those huge microfiber cloths and have to store it and look for clean spots to use etc. For $1.80 its a steal.
EDIT: technically this post isnt about grease or lubes but i'm thinking its ancillary to it, to be used in the cleaning process so that's why i think its relevant but feel free to delete it if you're of a different opinion
Tekno_Cowboy
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'll add it with a side-note that it's mainly for o-rings.
how do you know that nano-oil it is petroleum based? i just bought some and want to know whether i should be cautious using it, especially on expensive lights.
thanks.
DM51
Flashaholic
This thread has predictably taken off like a rocket, and many thanks are due to Tekno_Cowboy for shouldering this task, and others (Unforgiven, StarHalo, chmsam, McGizmo and others) for their input.
I'm sticking it at the top of the page. Post #1 will obviously be updated from time to time, and it should eventually become the definitive lube reference thread here on CPF.
It will take time to sort out the wheat from the chaff, and some posts may need to be removed, but so far it is looking good.
I'm sticking it at the top of the page. Post #1 will obviously be updated from time to time, and it should eventually become the definitive lube reference thread here on CPF.
It will take time to sort out the wheat from the chaff, and some posts may need to be removed, but so far it is looking good.
DM51
Flashaholic
Very understandable confusion. The answer is NO - silicone rubber is unsuitable for any application where friction might be a factor, i.e. flashlight O-rings. It is used in static (non-moving) sealing applications only. You therefore won't find any silicone O-rings in your flashlights. It is therefore OK to use silicone grease.
Vaseline has a petroleum base, which will damage (eat) some O-rings. It is therefore NOT recommended.
DM51
Flashaholic
Two of our most highly respected and experienced CPFers are firm supporters of NanoLube - Milkyspit and LuxLuthor. You don't get much better than a recommendation from those 2 guys.
I use it myself for some applications, and my Nanolube applicator pen is one of the most useful items in my tool-kit. Please note for the record that there is a very deliberate space between the words "pen" and "is" above, lol.
I do not know whether or not Nanolube contains any petroleum derivatives. An authoritative post would be helpful in this regard; an uninformed debate would not.
R@ndom
Enlightened
How do lithium grease and moly grease fare? Blue lithium boating grease about the only grease that's available locally and comes in a ridiculously large tub. Is it the blue stuff on the Nitecore PD lights?
Tekno_Cowboy
Flashlight Enthusiast
IIRC it was stated in a thread discussing nano-oil a while back that got closed.
I agree that silicone o-rings should not be used in lights, but I've gotten several lights made in China with silicone o-rings.
+1 for an authoritative post.
While there are some prominent members that use it, I can't give it a go-ahead for the good section without more recommendations, and knowing that it does not contain petroleum derivatives.
I've personally had good luck with it on steel, but my results on Aluminum have been mixed. On annodized Al, I didn't have too many issues, but it didn't work too well for me on bare Al.
I doubt that that is what Nitecore uses, but it could be. :shrug:
I've used lithium and moly grease before. They'll do the job, but I've noticed they tend to be messy, staining, and they don't perform as well as many other greases. You should be able to find some silicone grease locally, and several places will ship internationally.
Tekno_Cowboy
Flashlight Enthusiast
That's a silicone grease.
post tenebras
Enlightened
Molybdenum is toxic and moly grease should be avoided on handheld instruments such as flashlights.
Tekno_Cowboy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks for that bit of info. Moly grease is going on the Poor list.
ejot
Enlightened
I use straight Krytox grease on all my lights and see no reason to consider anything else. This way I can play Lego--carefree--with any parts I want, and without ANY worries as to lubricant compatibility or strange, icky mixtures from lube choices of previous owners all over the world.
All the Krytox properties are ideal: chemical stability and inertness, wide temperature range, highly lubricating, not sticky but viscous enough to stay in place, gorgeous "feel" on threads, non-offensive/non-changing color, neutral smell. Compared to the money spent on lights, it is not expensive. A little bit goes a long way.
Over the course of two nights I first cleaned and then relubed the collection. For cleaning, I grabbed IPA, a few microfiber cloths, a tiny mirror, some dentist picks, and various other blunt probing tools. I avoided Q-tips or paper towels as they leave their shredded remains on threads. On external threads, I usually just ran the IPA-wetted cloth along the thread path with my fingernail. Also took the opportunity to very carefully file away nicks or damage on threads. O-rings were, of course, removed before cleaning and then went into a plastic baggie along with their respective light.
For lubing, i put two or three very thin lines of grease perpendicular to the thread grooves and spread it evenly with my finger. The excess left on my finger went on the o-rings.
All the Krytox properties are ideal: chemical stability and inertness, wide temperature range, highly lubricating, not sticky but viscous enough to stay in place, gorgeous "feel" on threads, non-offensive/non-changing color, neutral smell. Compared to the money spent on lights, it is not expensive. A little bit goes a long way.
Over the course of two nights I first cleaned and then relubed the collection. For cleaning, I grabbed IPA, a few microfiber cloths, a tiny mirror, some dentist picks, and various other blunt probing tools. I avoided Q-tips or paper towels as they leave their shredded remains on threads. On external threads, I usually just ran the IPA-wetted cloth along the thread path with my fingernail. Also took the opportunity to very carefully file away nicks or damage on threads. O-rings were, of course, removed before cleaning and then went into a plastic baggie along with their respective light.
For lubing, i put two or three very thin lines of grease perpendicular to the thread grooves and spread it evenly with my finger. The excess left on my finger went on the o-rings.
I've had very good result's with nano-lube. I used weight 10 on titanium and anodized alu threads and it get's very smooth.
I use weight 85 on knived with good result's, I also use a drop og 5 ore 10
to rech the pivot without taking the knife appart.
I only used it for 2 weeks so I can't tell if it eats O-rings ore not, but
if it does I'l report back.
I use weight 85 on knived with good result's, I also use a drop og 5 ore 10
to rech the pivot without taking the knife appart.
I only used it for 2 weeks so I can't tell if it eats O-rings ore not, but
if it does I'l report back.
R@ndom
Enlightened
Got some teflon/PTPE tape. Works wonders on my SS light. Haven't tried it on Al lights yet but people are reporting good results with it on Ti Lights
csshih
Flashlight Enthusiast
my orings show no sign of degradation.
regardless, protecting the thread is more important than protecting the cheap oring. one his website, christian states that the lubrication is to reduce wear of metal on metal..
This is a great thread. I'm a newbie and didn't know what to use. I picked up this white lithium grease at my local hardware store. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...S4K7_nid=35PF5GKCP5gs4JS4WF0WC6gl8F6TXC8SBHbl
It is a spray which I spray a small amount on a rag then wipe on the threads. It seems to be very clean and works well, doesn't smell. I wonder which category this falls in?
It is a spray which I spray a small amount on a rag then wipe on the threads. It seems to be very clean and works well, doesn't smell. I wonder which category this falls in?
Tekno_Cowboy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Dave H said:
As it contains petroleum distillates (according to the MSDS) it should go in the poor category.
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