Confirmation!! NewWish Lasers ARE Pot Moddable!!!!

pixar

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It was not dropped. There was a green filter (brewster?) plate on the front feeding the feedback APC diode - that came off after I damaged the other stuff (basically contained in about 3 mm's of space surrounded by a bronze circular ring) situated behind the pass-through / brewster window. In this 3mm's was a white-ish crystalline substance and a small green fleck of something - thin and a perfect oblong shape.

Just before this the laser was working fine but low power. It may still have been working but giving out IR of 808nm or thereabouts - too dangerous to keep in this mode. I had unscrewed the laser assembly (one brass section unscrewed from the other) many times and replaced it and it still gave a bright output. It only failed when I probed the wrong place.

This particular laser may not be the best to go for in terms of modding. Some pcb's may be different from others even if the lasers all look the same (Ebay is full of this type of black/silver model at present - some even call it a leadlight but it's not). No difference with APC disabled nor pot twiddling (btw - the wiper and the left side of the pot were shorted on my pcb).
 

Athoul

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That green glass you are referring to is the IR filter. I'm not sure aht hapepend to create the white particles.. it sounds like it was a hybrid ND/KTP crystal.
 

aman06

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I have a 10mw one that looks exactly like sputniks', im gonna try the pot mod after drilling, hopefully all goes well. but has any one modded a 10mw newwish? does it go any brighter?
 

aman06

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I adjusted it and the laser went a little brighter, i cant see no beam tho, and is the brightest spot when your turning the screw then the laser goes out then u you carry on turning and it goes really bright, is that the brightest spot?

thanks!
 

rexer

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archangel080 said:
badinstinct....... more than 50% of ebay lasers are newwish... either silver or black.

Ive finally been able to open the damn thing..... completly scraped the casing...
What do I do now, Sputnik? I hope after you reverse engineer it you find out it's super easy :grin2:

Here's what I see:
12817535618.jpg

1281758169.jpg


Hi, im new to all this laser stuff, had loads of fun with my red one and now just bought my first greenie its a newwish <10mw , i have drilled a hole next to the button and turned the pot to the brightest spot but when you first turn it on , for about 0.5 seconds its really bright then goes really dim then gets a little brighter, i take it this is the apc at work, so if i can cut this wire will it stay bright?
in the first pic, the redish wire,is this the wire to cut to disable the apc?
also now iv turned the pot the green dot sort of looks oval at around 10 metres, do i need to focus it now? i have modded the hole at the end where the beam comes out as the beam was hitting the side of the hole , i reemed it out to about 7mm .
cool forum by the way.
NIck (newb)
 

rexer

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ok, i just hooked out that red wire from the hole i drilled and snipped it, it didnt appear to make any difference to the brightnes, however when you turn the pot it makes no difference also. it still goes really bright when you first push the button and then goes dim and then a bit brighter, i suspect cutting this wire didnt disable the apc but bypassed the pot. hmmm. can somone confirm my findings for me, this is the 10 mw newwish.
Nik
 

pixar

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Exactly the same for me - APC red and black wires do come from the photodiode / IR assemble, and desoldering both made no difference at all. The pot from one end to the other made no difference at all - well, a small area where you can get the bright-dimmer reaction or just bright - but no real difference in o/p. For me, one leg of the pot was connected to the swipper arm, the other ranged from low resistance to apporx 4.5K. Although no brightness change occurred, one way the switch gets real hot if held in for several seconds, the other the switch stays cool.

Some seem to be use cct's than others or crap diodes - it's as if they are being made to not be moddable now - or at least many of them. I do not know why bother having an APC and pot if they seem to make no difference either way - unless they kick in at 5mw which many seem to be under to start with, and cannot be made higher.
 

rexer

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i was a bit hasty there as it does seem to be a little(and i mean a little) bit brighter in the dark i can see the beam more, i still want to know why its really bright for half a second and then dim's off, cos i recon thats around 20mw for half a second, im glad i only paid £11.50 plus post for this and im now in the market for something with some sting in its tail, god these things are addictive lol.(mods i dont mean im gona sting anyone/thing nor am i condoning such behaviour)
im thinking i might get something around 75 mw next, i would like to have a play with a lead light 105 as there is loads of info on it. poping baloons is cool but i just want a beam that can be seen clearly.
Nick
 

pixar

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I have wasted a total of £75 on two lasers off Ebay that were crapshoots - one was sold as 30mw that was measured (green led) as <2mw and could not be modded (pot+apc) and the other the pot made no difference (CNI <5mw nexus look-alike, which I got the rubber button off by using my finger alone - it was not damaged at this point, but I broke the wires off the diode when trying to get the end off - it pulls off (if you can dissolve the glue) but if you twist it you break the diode as the pcb does not rotate).

I have a CNI nexus look-alike that was sold as <100mw that is probably 60mw+ - but I have not attempted to mod that. I would have been better of buying a 95mw-125mw in the first place. I have a <5mw real leadlight coming my way. Now time to stop wasting money unless a real proven 'moddable' bargain is found.
 
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RickSCV

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I received one of these lasers earlier today from a guy off ebay. I actually chose this specific model based on the posts you guys made here :) Im new at this so I've been learning by reading everything.

The odd part is my driver board inside looks exactly like the pictures that have been posted, except I have no red or black wires coming off diode to the board at all. Second, turning the pot has made no difference.

I did my first pot mod on two sets of red laser pointers laser week and in both instances the beam got brighter, so I felt safe doing the mod to this newish greenie. Im just suprised though the beam didnt get brighter at all when turning the pot. I've gone in circles with it trying to even make it dimmer thinking maybe the pot was already at its max setting to begin with (which would be a shame since I already cut into the casing to get to it lol), and I cant do that either.

I found a place on the net that sells driver board kits that look similar to what comes in the various pointers sold.. I might just scrap this laser for its diode and try another board. I also saw that amazing1.com sells a laser colliminator kit that fits over your existing pointer.. that might be worth looking into since I also read that this newwish laser's optics arent exactly the friendliest to adjust.
 

Dj_sTyLz808

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WOW!!! are all u guyz for real? my uncle just gave me 3 of these lasers.all i did was disable the apc.u know cutting the redwire and they all jumped in power.not sure how much in mW terms.but in a room lit by a 60w incandecent bulb i can see the beam with no problem.o yea and try some rechargable NiMh bumps up the power too.
 

i70CuDa

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to Dj_sTyLz808 and those with new lasers: does my laser look similar to yours. I hope i can get a good boost

lasersilver2.jpg
 

pixar

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We are for real - some can be modded and others can't with normal mods. With the APC totally disabled and the pot slightly tweaked or turned from one end to the other makes no difference at all for some - refer to my past posts, my laser is (was) exactly the same as this cosmetically and once opened, so was the board. The only thing I found was at one extreme of the pot the switch had so much current going though it it got very hot very quickly (something that may drastically shorten the life of your modded lasers due to the switch wearing out before the diode?), and the other extreme is remained cool - but the brightness or led check showed no change.

It seems the board may look similar - but either the components, IC (is it a pic or something?) or the diode are different. Which makes sense if they are clamping down on modding to limit the lasers to low outputs. It may be batch related or supplier (reseller) related. If one or two suppliers off Ebay or from forums can reliably supply moddable lasers, go for those - far too many Ebay lasers are no where near their quoted rating or the worst off the production line - which makes sense for low power pointers and cheap rubbish sold to the masses on Ebay as most reputable suppliers want quality stock.
 

RickSCV

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pixar said:
We are for real - some can be modded and others can't with normal mods. With the APC totally disabled and the pot slightly tweaked or turned from one end to the other makes no difference at all for some - refer to my past posts, my laser is (was) exactly the same as this cosmetically and once opened, so was the board. The only thing I found was at one extreme of the pot the switch had so much current going though it it got very hot very quickly (something that may drastically shorten the life of your modded lasers due to the switch wearing out before the diode?), and the other extreme is remained cool - but the brightness or led check showed no change.

It seems the board may look similar - but either the components, IC (is it a pic or something?) or the diode are different. Which makes sense if they are clamping down on modding to limit the lasers to low outputs. It may be batch related or supplier (reseller) related. If one or two suppliers off Ebay or from forums can reliably supply moddable lasers, go for those - far too many Ebay lasers are no where near their quoted rating or the worst off the production line - which makes sense for low power pointers and cheap rubbish sold to the masses on Ebay as most reputable suppliers want quality stock.

Sounds like I got the same one you did. No matter what I tried the brightness never changed. It was driving me nuts trying to find out what I was doing wrong.
 

Dj_sTyLz808

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wow that sucks.because so far out of my uncles shipment of 28 units.i already disabled the APC on 10 units and they all measured in @ around 20-25 mW's using the LED method.i did the disabled the APC and i did the pot mod to my unit and got just about 40 mW's! damn weird o_O
 

kyazh

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Jun 11, 2006
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Noob here, but approximately how many mW do you need to pop a balloon? How about to burn plastic bags or paper?
 

pixar

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Dj_sTyLz808 said:
wow that sucks.because so far out of my uncles shipment of 28 units.i already disabled the APC on 10 units and they all measured in @ around 20-25 mW's using the LED method.i did the disabled the APC and i did the pot mod to my unit and got just about 40 mW's! damn weird o_O

You did both of these through the button hole ?
 

rexer

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kyazh you shouuld start a new thread for this question mate, or do a search its probably been asked before.

pixar you have to drill a small hole next to the button to get to the pot.
 

pixar

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Someone used a lathe to cut around the body (3/8th's in etc, etc) - so I had access to the whole PCB. Waste of time as it did not seem to be moddable at all.
 

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