Cool White vs Neutral white

[maukka]

I've got four of the Viltrox lights in a couple different models and love them to bits! I've used their official Aliexpress store and a store called Max-digitaldslr Store. Many of my review photos have been taken using them as light sources.

Here are some measurements for the thinner edge lit L116T: https://imgur.com/a/1fhBU
And the thicker direct lit VL-162T: https://imgur.com/a/sstoi

The VL-162T provides more lux so if you don't mind the form factor or the visibility of the LED array on reflective surfaces, I'd say go for that one.

They both have extremely good color rendering at all CCTs, no PWM and can be used with a simple 7-12V wall wart or a 2-3S lithium ion battery. I also use a a clamping arm like this to hold them in place for desk use.

Here's some more user impressions from Zak on reddit.

 

[Keitho]

Model number? They seem to make a lot of products.

Viltrox L132T; the "T" stands for "tint." They might have other models, but that was the one I was thinking of. Amazon USA B01L75TMSM[h=1][/h]

 

[wimmer21]

My beam temp preference has gradually slid down the Kelvin scale ever since I began buying lights. It's to the point now that I've sold all but one light that's above 5000K. Obviously colors look much better when illuminated by warmer temps, but I even prefer my throwers to be between 4000K-5000K. Of course cool white will measure higher in candela but, for me, the beam seems to reflect back at me... so much so that it's difficult to accurately view objects.

 

[Zak]

The 116T is a more compact version of the 132T, and the output isn't much less. The 162T provides more focused light, though it's still extremely diffuse compared to most flashlights (roughly 1cd/lm IIRC at roughly 1000lm). I really like the light these produce, and the variable color temperature means the light can fit a variety of situations and user preferences.

As for color temperature preferences, there isn't necessarily an objective answer for most applications. Polls in other forums have put the vast majority (over 75%) of preferences between 4000K and 5000K. I tend to like around 4500-5000K generally, but CRI matters more. I'd take 5700K and 90 CRI over 4500K and 70 CRI. Efficiency/output barely matters. Losing 15% to get illumination I find more pleasant is always a good trade, as human perception of brightness is roughly logarithmic and 15% is barely visible. There's a trick though: cool white usually makes the fact that an object is being illuminated more noticeable even if it doesn't make it easier to see the object. Focusing your attention on how well you can see the object rather than looking for the illumination itself will usually overcome that effect.

I'll take it farther though and trade a large amount of output to get tint and CRI I like. Swapping a 6V Nichia 144A into a 12V Wizard Pro XHP50 was my first foray in to more extreme trades. It was about a 50% drop in output, but also a reduction in power consumption that made the top mode sustainable instead of a burst mode that gets thermal throttled unless the light is under water. Recently, I tried something more extreme: a shaved 90 CRI XHP50 replacing the cool white XHP70.2 in my Acebeam L30. The output loss was considerable: 3900 lumens down to 2284 (both at 30 seconds). I went from rarely using the L30 to it being one of my favorite lights, so I'm going to call that a good trade. It still makes friends who are already familiar with my flashlight antics say "wow" when I light up an area with it. I think it's a change from "wow, the glare is overwhelming" to "wow, I can see everything​".

 

[Zak]

I even prefer my throwers to be between 4000K-5000K. Of course cool white will measure higher in candela but, for me, the beam seems to reflect back at me... so much so that it's difficult to accurately view objects.

You're not the only one. I go warmer for throwers than general-purpose lights for this reason. I want to see the target, not the beam.

 

[wimmer21]

... human perception of brightness is roughly logarithmic and 15% is barely visible. There's a trick though: cool white usually makes the fact that an object is being illuminated more noticeable even if it doesn't make it easier to see the object. Focusing your attention on how well you can see the object rather than looking for the illumination itself will usually overcome that effect.

Very well put Zak. ^^^Everyone who insists that they see more clearly at distance with cool white beams might take a minute to let this above message sink in.^^^

I want to see the target, not the beam.

^I might put this quote in my sig.

 

[Zak]

The one thing I'm not yet certain about is whether CRI matters much at extreme distances. I did just build an 80+ CRI 240+ Kcd light though.

 

[eh4]

Recently, I tried something more extreme: a shaved 90 CRI XHP50 replacing the cool white XHP70.2 in my Acebeam L30. The output loss was considerable: 3900 lumens down to 2284 (both at 30 seconds). I went from rarely using the L30 to it being one of my favorite lights, so I'm going to call that a good trade. It still makes friends who are already familiar with my flashlight antics say "wow" when I light up an area with it. I think it's a change from "wow, the glare is overwhelming" to "wow, I can see everything​".

- Sounds great!