EagleTac Clicky Ti

Nice! So HERE'S a $5 BLF lightbox you can rig ;).

This is great! I never used this method, but I sometimes test lights in a small area. It may be my phone, app, or both, but I find even the SLIGHTEST movement really throws off the numbers.
 
I'm looking to try 3 volt LiFePo4 cells for my 2014 Eagletac D25C titanium.

My goal is to NOT boost brightness and retain all three modes with the light set up for moonlight. The main reason is that I bought the D25C for the low .5 lumen moonlight mode and don't want it any brighter.

The only thread I can find for the D25C using LiFePo4 cells was not encouraging. However, this was a 2012 mini model and I know the light has been evolving.

Is anyone successfully using 3 volt LiFePo4 cells with their D25Cs? I can't be the only one who likes moonlight just as it is . . . right?

Thanks!
 
I'm looking to try 3 volt LiFePo4 cells for my 2014 Eagletac D25C titanium. Is anyone successfully using 3 volt LiFePo4 cells with their D25Cs?

I presently have a couple of generations of D25c's consisting of (2012) XM-L's, and (2014) N. 219b's that I usually run w/primaries due to loss of medium using any Li-ion (3v LiFePo4 or 3.7v LiCo). You peaked my curiosity however so I shoved a 3 volt LiFePo4 in each version and toggled each to moonlight mode in a dark room, alternating a LiFePo4 and CR123a and, at least by eye...I could tell no difference. If there is a difference, it's negligible.

Since you don't seem to mind loosing medium...I'm guessing you'd be happy w/the result.
 
I seem to have found my lost lumens.....
Going Gear shipped me the XP-G model instead of the XM-L that I ordered, I was just looking at the box and noticed that it said XP-G2 S2 on the end.
Now I have to decide if its worth it to ship it back or not.

I've been told this is the last light im allowed to order for a while..... so I want it to be the one I wanted to edc.
 
I presently have a couple of generations of D25c's consisting of (2012) XM-L's, and (2014) N. 219b's that I usually run w/primaries due to loss of medium using any Li-ion (3v LiFePo4 or 3.7v LiCo). You peaked my curiosity however so I shoved a 3 volt LiFePo4 in each version and toggled each to moonlight mode in a dark room, alternating a LiFePo4 and CR123a and, at least by eye...I could tell no difference. If there is a difference, it's negligible.

Since you don't seem to mind loosing medium...I'm guessing you'd be happy w/the result.

Well, not exactly. I use medium way more than max so that wouldn't be the best solution for me. However, I GREATLY APPRECIATE you taking the time to run the test.

I have about a half dozen CR123s waiting in the wings. Guess I'll need to stay with primaries unless someone has another solution.
 
Well, not exactly. I use medium way more than max so that wouldn't be the best solution for me. However, I GREATLY APPRECIATE you taking the time to run the test.

I have about a half dozen CR123s waiting in the wings. Guess I'll need to stay with primaries unless someone has another solution.

No problem...I actually bought the only two LiFePo4 cells I own to use exclusively in the D25c's, thinking that the newer versions of the light(s) would retain all modes since the LiFePo4 voltage is so close to primaries...and particularly since ET continues to state on it's site with reference to the D25c... "dimmable feature with single li-ion"...when it's clearly untrue.

I like the D25c platform though, so I too keep 15 or 20 Battery Junction "Titanium" brand CR123a cells on hand just for these lights. At a $1 a piece, it's not a huge inconvenience or cost, but it still kinda bugs me that I can't use Li-ions and get all modes.
 
ImageUploadedByCandlepowerforums1441166552.936711.jpg

No glow in this picture, but this is where I put trits in the d25A. The A fits a 3.5mm trit whilst the C is just big enough to fit a 5mm trit in the lanyard slots.
 
No problem...I actually bought the only two LiFePo4 cells I own to use exclusively in the D25c's, thinking that the newer versions of the light(s) would retain all modes since the LiFePo4 voltage is so close to primaries...and particularly since ET continues to state on it's site with reference to the D25c... "dimmable feature with single li-ion"...when it's clearly untrue.

I like the D25c platform though, so I too keep 15 or 20 Battery Junction "Titanium" brand CR123a cells on hand just for these lights. At a $1 a piece, it's not a huge inconvenience or cost, but it still kinda bugs me that I can't use Li-ions and get all modes.

Those were the exact same cells I was researching yesterday. See they did well in the 2013 CR123 shootout. Would you continue to recommend the Titaniums?

I have some CR2 lights I was thinking about trying the Titaniums with, too. I'd also like to try LiFePo4 cells with those but have read the runtimes are terrible, even if the modes are maintained.
 
View attachment 1014

No glow in this picture, but this is where I put trits in the d25A. The A fits a 3.5mm trit whilst the C is just big enough to fit a 5mm trit in the lanyard slots.

Lookin' good! With the glow in the dark clicky button, do you find the trits are still needed in the same area of the light?
 
View attachment 1014

No glow in this picture, but this is where I put trits in the d25A. The A fits a 3.5mm trit whilst the C is just big enough to fit a 5mm trit in the lanyard slots.
Do you know how to send a flashlight with trits through USPS? I've added trits to some of mine and now I'm afraid to get in trouble if I mail them out for led mods.
 
Those were the exact same cells I was researching yesterday. See they did well in the 2013 CR123 shootout. Would you continue to recommend the Titaniums?

I have some CR2 lights I was thinking about trying the Titaniums with, too. I'd also like to try LiFePo4 cells with those but have read the runtimes are terrible, even if the modes are maintained.

Yes...the "Titanium" brand batteries in both the CR123a and CR2 sizes work as well (I use both) and last as long as any other brands I've tried, Surefire, Streamlight, etc.

And, yes again... in that LiFePo4 cell's run times are lacking compared to LiCo chemistry cells, although it's a small diff., and both are kind of sucky compared to primaries IMO, plus many chargers don't support charging LiFePo4 cells. If you're thinking about using either chemistry Li-ion in your new D25c...you'll loose medium mode with either one...but in my experience the LiCo cells will simply give you two somewhat brighter turbo modes (instead of medium and high on a CR123a) than LiFePo4's.
 
I pulled the trigger on a 2014 D25C Ti from Goinggear. It will be my first Titanium light so I am super excited!

However, I wanted an LED that was different from my current XM-L2 equipped Nitecores. So I choose the flashlight listed as neutral white XP-G2. The thing about this LED combo is that I can't find any information on neutral white XP-G2 with D25C Ti lights. Could this be a mislabeled flashlight?

Does anyone know what I can expect in terms of color temperature? I hope to find out more.

http://goinggear.com/eagletac-d25c-...g2-453-lumen-led-flashlight-2014-version.html
 
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I pulled the trigger on a 2014 D25C Ti from Goinggear. It will be my first Titanium light so I am super excited! However, I wanted an LED that was different from my current XM-L2 equipped Nitecores. So I choose the flashlight listed as neutral white XP-G2. The thing about this LED combo is that I can't find any information on neutral white XP-G2 with D25C Ti lights. Could this be a mislabeled flashlight? Does anyone know what I can expect in terms of color temperature? I hope to find out more. http://goinggear.com/eagletac-d25c-...g2-453-lumen-led-flashlight-2014-version.html
I don't recall anything about neutral Ti models but ET uses 4300K Cree's IIRC.
 
I don't recall anything about neutral Ti models but ET uses 4300K Cree's IIRC.

Thanks for your info! I guess I will find out sooner or later! Really excited about this new light. I hope I won't be disappointed!
 
View attachment 1014

No glow in this picture, but this is where I put trits in the d25A. The A fits a 3.5mm trit whilst the C is just big enough to fit a 5mm trit in the lanyard slots.

Gunga, some advice please if you see this. I have measured slots in the A clicky and the C. The C is where u want to put the trit in the slots like you did.

However, I measure only 4 mm of clearance before curve begins. To get 5mm to lie in there, the corners of the slots would need to be filed out .5 mm on each side. Is that what you did. With the clicky right behind it, looks tricky???
 
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