Escape from the Tunnels

[turbodog]

[ QUOTE ]
Mr_Dead said:
>>then that and your price constraints are gonna narrow the field down VERY quickly<<

As I said in the first post, feel free to ignore my personal price constraints. I could never stick to a budget for emergency gear anyway, and even if I choose not to spend that kind of money myself, I wouldn't mind knowing what's out there.

My guess is that LED tech is in enough of a state of flux right now that a lot of these lights will be pretty obsolete in a few years, which affects my willingness to consider a $200+ purchase.. but, if you need it in the meantime, you need it. There's no putting a price on weapons or emergency gear when they're really needed.

[/ QUOTE ]

Well, that said, the runtime is still gonna be the problem. You're looking for a light to carry every day, maybe not in your pocket but still close by. I'm assuming you don't wanna carry something too heavy or too big. That creates limits for runtime and output power that nothing is going to change.

Generally speaking, most of the high dollar, whiz-bang lights sacrifice runtime at "benefit" of features, size, weight, brightness, etc.

It's the lower end lights that usually have runtimes in the range you're looking for. And yes, I agree that in a year or two the light you buy today will be obsolete. Led output is gaining by about 30% per year if I remember correctly.

The reason I keep pounding on the eternalight is that is can run on one of the lower settings for 10+ hours and still have energy left for 10+ hours on one of the high settings. If you're willing to go over $50, you can get the top of the line eternalight. It's about $74 and that includes shipping.

Unlike ALL the other eternalight models, it is regulated so it doesn't dim as the batteries run down. It also will float if you use lithium cells in it. It's got a built-in battery meter as well. 16 brightness levels take you from just enough light to see your feet to enough light to see objects well that are 30+ feet away.

 

[HarryN]

I would just throw in that Li based batteries are a MUST for your application - more energy density, longer shelf life, and much better performance when it gets cold out.

I am personally not a fan of AA and AAA lights, even Li based ones, because they tend to be long, and the chemistry of Li wants to be approx. 3 volts - ie - 123 size. I also do some stuff with 223's, but these are not so common in portable lights.

That being said, AA and AAA cells are a little more common in stores. As far as price, you can find 123 and 223 cells on-line for < $ 2 from many suppliers, so don't let that throw you. For some reason, retail prices of 123s are still wildly disconnected from Internet pricing.

For the lighting power and run time you want, there might have to be a compromise - either carry some extra batteries, or consider a light which uses 2 each Li D cells (Saft / HDS). A Li D cell light will run very bright for a very long time, of course, the batteries alone are equal to your $ 50 budget.

Since the point of your emergency light is "escape", then a metal light might be useful for removing blocked windows.

 

[BugOutGear_USA]

Not sure if this was mentioned, but you may want to go with a "amber" light since you may be dealing with smoke in the mentioned situation. Amber will cut through smoke better than white. Not sure about any of the other colors.

 

[gadget_lover]

I see the Dorcy 2AA 4 LED light has not been mentioned. It's the size of the minimag and has 5mm LEDs. It's about as bright as the Innova X5. It will run for a real long time on a pair of Energizer Lithium AA (L91) cells (between 6 and 10 hours). As the batteries run down it dims. It's weatherproof but not necessarily water proof. It should work when wet, but that may cause corrosion problems in the future.

It has a momentary button as well as twist for on. It has a lockout mode.

It sells for about $16 at places like Wallmart and Target.

There is another light you may consider. A Dorcy 1 LED single AAA using the Energizer Lithium AAA (L92) will run a long time and has many of the same features. It's much smaller. It should run about 7 hours on a single lithium cell. It sells for about $7 at the same places.

I'd make sure you have a couple of small sacrificial lights (like the Dorcy AAA), just in case some of your lights get commandeered.

Daniel

 

[wwglen]

Two other options that haven't been mjentioned here.

These are CHEAP low level lights that have extreame run times.

1. 9V Pal light (or home made equlivent)
2. 5mm (or larger) white LED in a minimag using Lithium AA's.

wwglen

 

[RonnieBarlow]

[ QUOTE ]
Mr_Dead said:
I'm probably ready to try an Inova X5T. Anything wrong with the slightly beefed/subdued version on Countycomm?

[/ QUOTE ]

Absolutely not! In fact, this is the version I would most highly recommend. The main difference is the finish is hard as nails and is a "natural" HA-III.

The X5T is truly a fantastic little light. You will not be disappointed.

Besides, everyone needs a flashlight that runs on dead batteries. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Stanley]

I'd vote for an Eternalight as well. The Ergo3 model is what I use for camping, around the house, etc, and its more than sufficient for most tasks. With the dimmable light feature, you choose a level that you're comfortable with while walking and save some juice as well!

Else a TekTite Splashlite led is also a good choice. It runs 1x123 lithium cell, and gives you about 6-8 hrs (IIRC) of runtime, and is waterproof and tiny. They go for $20 at www.batterystation.com . I like them because they are pretty small in size and bright in output.

Else you won't go wrong with the other mentioned lights, especially between the UKE 2L and the UKE 4AA eLed. Swap out lamp modules between the two and use whichever you feel like for the day... truly versatile indeed.

By the way, since your usage seems pretty high, may I suggest that you use rechargable batts as well? Might save you some $$ in the long run, esp with rechargable 123s. Just carry a spare set of normal batteries and you won't have to worry about running out of juice.

 

[turbodog]

[ QUOTE ]
Stanley said:
I'd vote for an Eternalight as well. The Ergo3 model is what I use for camping, around the house, etc, and its more than sufficient for most tasks. With the dimmable light feature, you choose a level that you're comfortable with while walking and save some juice as well!

Else a TekTite Splashlite led is also a good choice. It runs 1x123 lithium cell, and gives you about 6-8 hrs (IIRC) of runtime, and is waterproof and tiny. They go for $20 at www.batterystation.com . I like them because they are pretty small in size and bright in output.

Else you won't go wrong with the other mentioned lights, especially between the UKE 2L and the UKE 4AA eLed. Swap out lamp modules between the two and use whichever you feel like for the day... truly versatile indeed.

By the way, since your usage seems pretty high, may I suggest that you use rechargable batts as well? Might save you some $$ in the long run, esp with rechargable 123s. Just carry a spare set of normal batteries and you won't have to worry about running out of juice.

[/ QUOTE ]

Uk4aa eled and eternalight elitemax will run at full brightness on rechargeable cells.

 

[vtunderground]

Keep in mind that it'd be hard to go from a well-lit subway car to a pitch-black tunnel (or from a well-lit subway car to a pitch-black car, or whatever). Also, tunnels seem to swallow your light up. I wouldn't consider anything less than a UK eLED w/lithium AA's (and even then, I'd also carry something substantially brighter).

 

[Wolfen]

Stock Surefire KL1 LED head. E2e body and a McGizmo 2 stage tailcap. You can get the tailcap at McGizmo's forum and post a wanted ad for the KL1 and E2e body in B/S/T. More throw than the x5t and nice long runtime on low. Adequate brightness and throw on high.

 

[Double_A]

I wonder what the runtime would be of a UK eLED running NiMH rechargebles?

 

[Lunal_Tic]

I don't know if you think a 2D light is too big but the Elektro Lumens Anglelux might be good for you. His original ones would go 24 hours but weren't all that bright. The newer ones are 8 hours of bright then many hours of lower level light. They also include colored filters in the base so you can change the light color to match your needs. I believe Amber, Blue and Red are available just ask. The throw is pretty narrow so would be good for smoke too. If I recall it also maintains its waterproofness and is very rugged. There are several threads on them for more info. I keep one in my bug out bag along with AA to D adapters. Of course YMMV.

Good luck,
LT

 

[Mr_Dead]

>>Stock Surefire KL1 LED head. E2e body and a McGizmo 2 stage tailcap. You can get the tailcap at McGizmo's forum and post a wanted ad for the KL1 and E2e body in B/S/T. More throw than the x5t and nice long runtime on low. Adequate brightness and throw on high.<<


Ok, I'll bite.

Looks like the head alone would probably exceed my stipulated budget, but, for the sake of discussion, how long would this combo put out usable light?

Sorry for my ignorance, but what is B/S/T?

 

[Mr_Dead]

Ok, at repeated suggestion I've been looking over the Eternalight site. $75 is not outlandishly over budget.

Interesting concept, some nice features, but.. am I mistaken in thinking that you have to effectively disassemble these things, with a screwdriver, exposing screws to loss and the internal circuitry to the environment, just to change the batteries? Ok, I can see that if (unlike almost everything else using regulated LEDs) this lets you know how much of a charge you have left that may help.. but if this is the case it seems like a very serious disadvantage for practical use, as opposed to changing batteries on a well-lit living-room coffee table.

 

[turbodog]

[ QUOTE ]
Mr_Dead said:
Ok, at repeated suggestion I've been looking over the Eternalight site. $75 is not outlandishly over budget.

Interesting concept, some nice features, but.. am I mistaken in thinking that you have to effectively disassemble these things, with a screwdriver, exposing screws to loss and the internal circuitry to the environment, just to change the batteries? Ok, I can see that if (unlike almost everything else using regulated LEDs) this lets you know how much of a charge you have left that may help.. but if this is the case it seems like a very serious disadvantage for practical use, as opposed to changing batteries on a well-lit living-room coffee table.

[/ QUOTE ]

It's not a problem to do this at your coffee table. Yes, the "insides" get exposed, which is not really an issue unless it's raining on you at the time.

I'd put a battery change on par with putting batteries in a child's toy (the type where the battery compartment is held in place by screws).

As far as the screws go..... mine fit faily snugly in the hols in the case. So when I lift off the bottom of the case, they tend to stay with it. You don't have to take them out to separate the halves. The batteries and electronics are in the top part so when the case splits (held upside down), parts don't go flying everywhere.

Granted, it's not as easy as a battery change in a mag-lite or similar though. But given all the upsides to the EL series, I would not let it stop me.

 

[Blades]

[ QUOTE ]
Mr_Dead said:
Interesting concept, some nice features, but.. am I mistaken in thinking that you have to effectively disassemble these things, with a screwdriver, exposing screws to loss and the internal circuitry to the environment, just to change the batteries?

[/ QUOTE ]

Nope, your not mistaken. That is probably the only downside. To keep the Ergo waterproof, you have to keep the screws in it to hold it tightly closed. The Derringer model uses AAA batteries, and does not need a screwdriver, but I don't know how "waterproof" it is. Are you planning on carrying extra batteries with ya?? If so, then you might want to decide on one type of battery for all your lights. All AA's or 123a's or whatever. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


Blades

 

[Mr_Dead]

Eternalight... this sort of reminds me of the old Mallory 2AA "backpacker's" light, which had to be pulled apart to change batteries, but that at least only had one screw...

Ok.. well... sorry, no offense intended, but I think that's going to make it unsuitable for my personal use, in my personal view.

If I really, really need to change the batteries, it seems like that *almost by definition* means that I'll be in the dark while I'm trying to do it. I'm guessing that actually changing them in the dark (even provided that I had a phillips-head handy) would be possible only under the best of conditions. I'm not carrying a light for the best of conditions.

Traditional tubular configurations may be old-fashioned to some, but you don't need tools to change batteries, you can do it in the dark, and you can do it in pretty bad conditions.

Aside from the possibility (likelyhood, I would think, at least for me, under field conditions) of screw loss, I also wonder about that large, complex gasket staying clean and re-seating well every time. Seems like there's a lot of potential for things to go wrong in this process.

I even dislike tubular flashlights where there's more than one piece loose (tailcap) while changing batteries- those where reflectors, bulbs and whatnot come sliding out without warning. Come to think of it, a captive tailcap would probably be a plus... it's not like the light is much good without it.

 

[turbodog]

[ QUOTE ]
Mr_Dead said:
Eternalight... this sort of reminds me of the old Mallory 2AA "backpacker's" light, which had to be pulled apart to change batteries, but that at least only had one screw...

Ok.. well... sorry, no offense intended, but I think that's going to make it unsuitable for my personal use, in my personal view.

If I really, really need to change the batteries, it seems like that *almost by definition* means that I'll be in the dark while I'm trying to do it. I'm guessing that actually changing them in the dark (even provided that I had a phillips-head handy) would be possible only under the best of conditions. I'm not carrying a light for the best of conditions.

Traditional tubular configurations may be old-fashioned to some, but you don't need tools to change batteries, you can do it in the dark, and you can do it in pretty bad conditions.

Aside from the possibility (likelyhood, I would think, at least for me, under field conditions) of screw loss, I also wonder about that large, complex gasket staying clean and re-seating well every time. Seems like there's a lot of potential for things to go wrong in this process.

I even dislike tubular flashlights where there's more than one piece loose (tailcap) while changing batteries- those where reflectors, bulbs and whatnot come sliding out without warning. Come to think of it, a captive tailcap would probably be a plus... it's not like the light is much good without it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Well the uk 4aa eled comes apart in 3 pieces. Bezel, lamp assembly, and body.

A minimag (with opalec conversion) comes apart in 2. Body, tail. Note though: the tail has a spring inside which is a friction fit. It dropped, I guarantee the spring is coming out and bouncing into a dark corner.

The UK light's bezel is large and easy to get a grip on, and the lamp assembly is large also.

 

[gregw]

Personally, I'd select a light that has multiple levels, with long battery life on low, and yet has the option for a very bright beam when required. If cost was not an issue, I'd recommend MrBulk's VIP as an EDC in your situation. Based on Roy's Run-Time Plots, the VIP on low lasts 68 hours, with the option of 3.5 hours on Medium or 47 minutes on High.. Since it uses only 1 CR123 cell, it should also be easy to carry around one additional spare battery, so you could, theoretically, have on hand, over 100 hours of low light or 7 hours of light, bright enough to read a book by.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif The form factor of the VIP is also small enough that you could carry it on your belt in a pouch without being noticed.

-- Edit --
Look here for info on the VIP. Unfortunately, MrBulk is no longer making them, so, you'll have to try your luck on the B/S/T forum if you want one.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[StoneDog]

OK, why not... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

1) UK eLED 4AA stocked with Lithium (L91) AA batteries - will be light enough with L91's and will run for many, many hours.
2) A head lamp of some sort, I have a Petzl Tikka Plus which is much more useful for full-time use (like navigating a dark tunnel) because it leaves your hands free.
3) A small backup that uses batteries common to the other lights. The Peak LED lights mentioned above are great as is the Eternalight!

Jon