Nice review, but I do not agree with you measurements.
My measurements are:
Off:0.4mA, min:27mA, 212mA, 700mA and max:2.5A
Okay, I edited my posts above as I did have some errors. My meter is great and I trust it but those Powerexes are in worse shape than I originally thought. I retook all of the measurements just now using only the Eneloops and adjusted the findings. They seem closer to yours now but I still got that initial climb to 3 amps on Turbo before it settled down to a rock solid 2.6. There could be something wrong with the unit. Take a look at your SOS and see if you're getting that odd flash on a couple of the "Os" like I did. If you don't then there could be a little something wrong with my particular TK40.
The current at max will depend on the voltage drop in the measurement cables and battery voltage, i.e. if it says 2.5 or 3 A is not really a big question, but probably more about the cables.
I tried to measure the SOS with a optical sensor, you can see the result here:
As for my cable lengths . . . hey, I know your meter is good. I looked it up and while it's discontinued, the similar model that replaced it has a FIVE HUNDRED dollar price tag. However, it's not my cables or my meter causing a one time, momentary, slow climb to 3 amps, only to settle back down to 2.6A. Try it yourself but hold the reading for about 30 to 60 seconds and see if it does it on yours. After all, you found the same SOS problem, maybe you'll find that too.
I have redone the measurement on high, this time with batteries straight off the charger and I do not agree with you measurements, this time the measurement was steady on 2.3A.
I do not know how you do you measurements, I open the light between the head and the tube. This makes it easy to make the connection for current measurement: One alligator clip wire between tube and head, one alligator clip wire between outer rings and the meter between the center positions.
I have also made a review of the TK40, but it will not be posted here (Because it is in danish).
Well I guess we'll have to agree to disagree then! I have a good meter and know how to measure current. Our readings are not that far off anyway. You got 2.5 and I got 2.6. The next paragraph should explain the 2.3 reading you just got.
Nimhs fresh off the charger will give out more voltage (enough to flash an 1185 lamp) which could easily explain your lower reading - especially since it's lower than your ealier 2.5A reading. I don't understand why you find this so odd.
sounds like it's gotta be hanging on by a thread, and tailstanding....not exactly like "any other light"
I have the TK10 and think about ordering the TK40. For me, primary important is the light output.
Is brightness much more, so the TK40 would be worth the money?
I have the TK10 and think about ordering the TK40. For me, primary important is the light output.
Is brightness much more, so the TK40 would be worth the money?
Once my TK40 is locked out there's still more than 4 complete rounds before you can remove the tailcap. Hardly hanging on by a thread I would say.
Additionally the positive and negative contacts on top of the battery holder have different shape and length. Gravity is not enough to make them both touch the head's PCB. Only the force of the spring in the tailcap can do that. This can be easily verified by putting the holder upright on a table.
Once the tailcap has been unscrewed by the required 2.5 rounds the light can no longer be switched on independently of its position. IMHO there's no need to keep it tailstanding.
The only way unscrewing the tailcap is going to stop this drain is if you turn it out enough to break the contact AND TAILSTAND THE LIGHT. The springs on both the negative and positive have a long reach so you're going to have to unscrew the tailcap to the point where it almost falls off.
Once my TK40 is locked out there's still more than 4 complete rounds before you can remove the tailcap. Hardly hanging on by a thread I would say.
Additionally the positive and negative contacts on top of the battery holder have different shape and length. Gravity is not enough to make them both touch the head's PCB. Only the force of the spring in the tailcap can do that. This can be easily verified by putting the holder upright on a table.
Once the tailcap has been unscrewed by the required 2.5 rounds the light can no longer be switched on independently of its position. IMHO there's no need to keep it tailstanding.