Re: Introducing an EDC 2-Cell Light Feeler(CAD) SP
Mr Bulk
Thanks so much. You were a great help to me in the development of this light. I owe you Charlie. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif
McGizmo
The only reason I chose a face seal over a bore seal was I wanted to keep the knob to .500 in diameter. Note that the switch fits inside all that and it is .300 in diameter. As an example if you change the knob to .600 in diameter it gets very close to the bezel (I do not want the knob hanging below the bottom of the light). So to sum it up, I do not think there is room for a standard bore o-ring seal. I do show an o-ring groove cut into the body so it will stay put and not be able to squirm up and out. I did not draw the groove properly yet as it will have to blend completely into the bearing surface.
Put an o-ring groove on the outside of the knob? That is an excellent idea. Thank you. I have had several people voice concern about the grip in this knob. Before I go off and tell you what all their ideas were, I need to explain a little more about the switch I have chosen. I have lots of rotary switches laying beside me here on my desk. The two that "feel" the best are from Cole Industries and Grayhill. In testing them for feel I came to the conclusion that the .500" diameter smooth knob transmitted the right amount of torque with the Grayhill switch. Until the prototype is built we will not know for sure if the smooth surface on the knob is adequate. Your idea of an exterior o-ring groove is good and I will add it to some of the prototypes. Thanks Don.
Yes there is room for a couple 4-40 holes in that part of the body to secure a pocket clip. I have been putting off the decision to add a pocket clip until I find out if it is something everybody would want or not. So please speak up people! I love having pocket clips on my flashlights to keep them from rolling off the table but I do not have that problem with this light! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
As for the 6 watts going into a K2 in this light, I know it will get hot fast! When it does, turn it down. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
I love the McR-20, we will have to talk. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Cheers
Dave
Mr Bulk
Thanks so much. You were a great help to me in the development of this light. I owe you Charlie. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif
McGizmo
The only reason I chose a face seal over a bore seal was I wanted to keep the knob to .500 in diameter. Note that the switch fits inside all that and it is .300 in diameter. As an example if you change the knob to .600 in diameter it gets very close to the bezel (I do not want the knob hanging below the bottom of the light). So to sum it up, I do not think there is room for a standard bore o-ring seal. I do show an o-ring groove cut into the body so it will stay put and not be able to squirm up and out. I did not draw the groove properly yet as it will have to blend completely into the bearing surface.
Put an o-ring groove on the outside of the knob? That is an excellent idea. Thank you. I have had several people voice concern about the grip in this knob. Before I go off and tell you what all their ideas were, I need to explain a little more about the switch I have chosen. I have lots of rotary switches laying beside me here on my desk. The two that "feel" the best are from Cole Industries and Grayhill. In testing them for feel I came to the conclusion that the .500" diameter smooth knob transmitted the right amount of torque with the Grayhill switch. Until the prototype is built we will not know for sure if the smooth surface on the knob is adequate. Your idea of an exterior o-ring groove is good and I will add it to some of the prototypes. Thanks Don.
Yes there is room for a couple 4-40 holes in that part of the body to secure a pocket clip. I have been putting off the decision to add a pocket clip until I find out if it is something everybody would want or not. So please speak up people! I love having pocket clips on my flashlights to keep them from rolling off the table but I do not have that problem with this light! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
As for the 6 watts going into a K2 in this light, I know it will get hot fast! When it does, turn it down. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
I love the McR-20, we will have to talk. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Cheers
Dave