Is Armytek a gamble?

Tachead

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Are you referring to this: Constant light. Powerful electronics provide constant brightness even in the Turbo1 mode, using all energy of the battery. And the Turbo2 mode gives the maximum brightness as the Overboost technology in cars, but until temperature of a flashlight and a discharge current of the battery don't exceed critical values.in the Wizard and Prime manuals?

And this: There are two Turbo modes. You will use only one, but can select which one. Turbo2 is boost mode for maximal brightness and set by default. Turbo1 is constant brightness mode (more powerful than Main modes). Half press & release the button (without click) at least 15 times. The flashlight must be switched on at the end of these actions. The light will flash 1 or 2 times to show the number of Turbo chosen.

in the Predator and Viking manuals?

How is that implying T2 for the Wizard and Prim is regulated, and T2 for the Predator and Viking is DD?
Yes, that is what I was referring to. It appears to say neither is fully regulated in Turbo 2,only Turbo 1. We should really take this to out own thread man. Why don't you open up a new thread. If not, I will when I get my lightbox up and running.
 

scs

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Could it be? Could it be that runtime plot for the Predator is accurate, and your light isn't behaving the way you thought: over 1,000 OTF lumens down to 3.0V?
 

scs

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Yes, that is what I was referring to. It appears to say neither is fully regulated in Turbo 2,only Turbo 1. We should really take this to out own thread man. Why don't you open up a new thread. If not, I will when I get my lightbox up and running.

I believe we're still on topic. It's stuff like this which stirs up so many opinions and interpretations that makes it a gamble.
 

Tachead

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Could it be? Could it be that runtime plot for the Predator is accurate, and your light isn't behaving the way you thought: over 1,000 OTF lumens down to 3.0V?
Definitely not. My Prime is super bright still before it drops down a level. I have other lights to compare it to. It is more them 1000lumens. The Wizard is too as you can see from the runtime graphs you posted. In those runtime graphs the Wizard held close to 1100 lumens right until it dropped down and I am pretty sure it wasn't being cooled enough to stop the thermal regulation from kicking in. So, it would likely even be brighter if more cooling measures were taken. Like I said, the best way to test would be to take a lux reading at full charge and one at 3.0Vish and compare.
 

Tachead

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I believe we're still on topic. It's stuff like this which stirs up so many opinions and interpretations that makes it a gamble.
I don't think we are man. We are talking about the fine details of how certain modes are regulated. That really has nothing to do with the spirit of this thread Imo. Read the OP.
 

scs

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Definitely not. My Prime is super bright still before it drops down a level. I have other lights to compare it to. It is more them 1000lumens. The Wizard is too as you can see from the runtime graphs you posted. In those runtime graphs the Wizard held close to 1100 lumens right until it dropped down and I am pretty sure it wasn't being cooled enough to stop the thermal regulation from kicking in. So, it would likely even be brighter if more cooling measures were taken. Like I said, the best way to test would be to take a lux reading at full charge and one at 3.0Vish and compare.

1) Did you actually measure your cell voltage right after the step down?
2) How long did it take to reach the step down?
3) In your upcoming test, if your 3.0v cell gave you a pike around 1,000 lumens but quickly stepped down, would you consider that to be in support of your statement, or would the 3.0V cell have to keep the output around 1,000 lumens for a specific period of time, and if so for how long?
 

gunga

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Uh guys. You are getting off topic. Yes the points do add detail to the op but I think it's becoming a argument over numbers and specs. Armytek is known for sketchy numbers. That much is true. They can /do have great performance. That is true too. I think we get the point.
 

bdogps

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Is Armytek a gamble... If it works yay... If not, boo! I understand we all demand instantaneous satisfaction and what Armytek asks customers to do is reasonable. Sometimes it's a simple thing as cleaning the threads or tightening tail cap screw. I understand they need to protect their profits and they are running a business. After you done everything they ask to do, they give you the run around and don't honour their warranty. After whinging in here and through emails, they finally send you a tail cap that you were telling them that was the problem. It takes a month to arrive in the mail and then it's the wrong tail cap. So to me, yes, it's a gamble. Yes, they make nice and unique lights which attracted me to buy their products.
 

novarider

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Is Armytek a gamble... If it works yay... If not, boo! I understand we all demand instantaneous satisfaction and what Armytek asks customers to do is reasonable. Sometimes it's a simple thing as cleaning the threads or tightening tail cap screw. I understand they need to protect their profits and they are running a business. After you done everything they ask to do, they give you the run around and don't honour their warranty. After whinging in here and through emails, they finally send you a tail cap that you were telling them that was the problem. It takes a month to arrive in the mail and then it's the wrong tail cap. So to me, yes, it's a gamble. Yes, they make nice and unique lights which attracted me to buy their products.

All of that is "reasonable" to you?
 

bdogps

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All of that is "reasonable" to you?

The part where they want you to go through a few troubleshooting steps is fine, but the part of the whinging, writing them emails, and getting the wrong tail cap in the end, no. That's why I have refrained purchasing any of their products.
 

Bullzeyebill

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I have not read through all of the posts in this thread. Is there any reason why this thread should not be moved to the Armytek sub forum?

Bill
 

wardroid

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my Wizard Pro has been a work horse. I've abused mine for many years and it's still solid.
 

Woods Walker

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If you ask AT, that's actually a very good reason to move it ... :naughty:

Right. They wouldn't want anyone seeing this.

I like hawks.




Predator in heavy rain.





Beaver dam during a 9 mile night run. XHP-50 Wizard on Turbo 2.

 
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scs

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Right. They wouldn't want anyone seeing this.

I like hawks.




Predator in heavy rain.





Beaver dam during a 9 mile night run. XHP-50 Wizard on Turbo 2.


That's just the thing isn't it. The v2.5 line has a better reputation. There are those who believe the current v3 line has fallen in quality in its construction, finish, and reliability when compared to its predecessors.
 

Woods Walker

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That's just the thing isn't it. The v2.5 line has a better reputation. There are those who believe the current v3 line has fallen in quality in its construction, finish, and reliability when compared to its predecessors.
The wizard is a V3 and so is my new Viking. I have plenty of photos of the Viking being used but without enough field use to verify it's dependable I can't put it within a thread questioning if AT is a gamble. Speaking of gamble during the below photos it was -10 F with high winds. Who the heck know what the wind chill was? Negative 25F. Lithium AAs for the win.

Boiling water for conifer tea by the light of the Tiara V2 (don't think they make a V3 yet but do have a new UI these days) at dusk going into dark. Temps probably dropped even lower during the hike out. I suppose that was a gamble as well. I don't know if the V2.5 Predator/Viking has a better reputation than the V3 in terms of durability and reliable. Reputation isn't really a quantifiable measure though the internet will debate anything.





One downside to the Pros is the complex UI makes the expected possible. When I first got the Tiara accidentally disabled the light by setting it for lithium ion during use. Didn't have any 14500 at the time so needed to jump it. LOL!

 
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