Leadlight 105/110 Modification Stages1,2

[comozo]

Got a question that's not answered in this thread.
Is there a positive focal lens mounted to the 808nm diode?

 

[thetick]

Great guide; I just potted my new Leadlight 105. I don't know what the output is, but it's definitely too bright too look at after it's reflected off a white wall.

A couple questions though:
If the glue that holds the button on comes off, what should you use to replace it?

How is the aperature cap supposed to come off? Is it supposed to be pried off or screwed off (my Leadlight doesn't have any grooves on the aperature cap like the one in the picture)?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Corona]

If the glue that holds the button on comes off, what should you use to replace it?

j/k on that abuse of yer nick ;-)
You can try rubber cement (a spot on the button and the plastic sleeve, allowed to skin over before mating) or the snotty goop sometimes encountered in magazines to attach a glossy advertisement section. The latter seems to be the same class of adhesive as the original spot of goo, it's a bit tricky to transfer it from publication to pushbutton, but it works well.

 

[VERbAlist216]

if i have a 5wm lead light and i do the pot mod whats my highest output mw's coudl i get out of it ?

 

[Jaffa]

Some prick is selling Leadlight mod instructions on ebay, and i think they are most probably the instructions here. The link is here: http://cgi.ebay.com/LEADLIGHT-Green...ryZ47103QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[pixar]

Someone / many have been doing this for ages - that's what happens, people try and make a buck on ebay selling almost anything these days. Perhaps if it can be proved they are almost word for word, then someone can sue

 

[Edwood]

What outputs are people getting with Stage 1 mods with newer 110 Leadlights?

-Ed

 

[biscuitbarrel]

I just got my Leadlight from the Laser Community - the one they are advertising for $39 shipped. How do I tell if it's a 105 or a 110? Also how long is the warranty? I want to wait for the warranty to expire before I mod it.

 

[dr_lava]

well, if it has the green 'on' light, it's probably a 110, although the 'leadlight' designation of these lasercommunity lasers has been called into question. I have yet to see a good picture of the driver board of one of these pointers. If you can post that, we can say for sure.

 

[DAN-802]

Hi !! I'm a newbe...I have read all of the mod pod posts & they all refer to the rubber on/off switch...My 5mw has a metal round button that cannot be removed. I can see down the tube to the battery spring etc...but how do I get the button off to access the pod?? this might be a newer version to avoid the mod pod...can anyone advise, I would appreciate it...Thanks: Dan Stannard...PS .. Great site...!!!

 

[Nisei]

If it's got a metal switch it's not a Leadlight. You could post a picture and maybe someone recognizes your laser and be able to tell if it's possible to mod.

 

[Snipermang]

i think i got the one hes talking about its <5mw and it does have a metal button, i too cant figure out how to remove it.
here is a pic.

and here is the product page.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.91

 

[stevetexas]

This isn't a leadlight but it can be modded. It is VERY hard to disassemble. The silver cap has to be removed and the whole module pushed/pulled out. You risk severe cosmetic dammage if you try to open this one.

Personally, I wouldn't waste the effort on it - you may have one that you can't do a simple pot mod on then it is a whole other matter to improve the power.

 

[IcedZ]

I think mine may not be a leadlight. It was sold as a leadlight glp-105.
here is a link to the pic: http://3.5inchfloppy.com/green_laser.JPG

It has a round metal button, not an oval one like the others. It doesn't seem to be removable. And so far, I haven't been able to get the diode out.

Help! =(

Edit: just saw the posts above. Apparently mine isn't a leadlight. =\ I'll post more updates if I get it apart.

 

[cbfull]

Hey guys, haven't posted in a long time, been working on other projects.

One thing I want to mention about the "turned too far" pot and then intermittent/weak output, the diode MIGHT be just fine. I ran into this problem with a really cheap pot. On these cheap ones, if you turn it forcefully past it's endpoint, it damages the the little contact or "brush" that sits on the carbon track.

To fix this, I had to carefully unsolder and remove the old pot and measure it's total track resistance, and then ordered a micro-pot with surface solder contacts. It was very tricky soldering that tiny thing in place but it worked beautifully and has continued to do so for the last 5-6 years.

Thought you might like to know.

Craig

 

[juvaknin]

i have few short questions.. please help if you can...
i have the same laser pointer that you guys mod.. (the Leadlight black pointer) my questions are..
1. if i'm just doing the "Pot Mod" the laser will burn like i saw on some videos?
2. if yes, what it the max distance for pop baloons?
3. what value of Resistor you guys found that it's good to use for good power but won't kill fast the laser Diode?
4. if i'm doing the Resistor mod.. i need to calibrate the Pot? or just leave it as is (on max as you guys doing the Pot-Mod)??

Thanks for your time guys.. :thumbsup:

 

[Corona]

1.) Yes, if you are EXTREMELY lucky and get a high-efficiency unit that has not been identified by the manufacturer, distributor, or street dealer as "the good stuff" and sold for big bucks. Good luck with that, in today's green laser market. A year or two ago, it was a whole 'nother ballgame.

2.) A couple feet away is about all a human can manage; it's all about holding it steady as a rock. And you need a black or dark red balloon. With focusing optics, you might be able to pop a balloon with a lower power, but the distance is critical and a few inches is all you can reasonably expect.

3.) Read up some more - any mods you do need to be undertaken only after you fully understand the "why", not only the "what" regarding a mod. And put together some sort of power monitoring device; a green LED, etc. so you can tell if what you are doing is making any difference (and when to STOP increasing the drive current). Search the forum, all this is old news.

4.) See above

 

[juvaknin]

Many Thanks corona
about that if i ordered the "high-efficiency unit" we can't know until you get it...:thinking:
i ordered mine from e-bay for arround 50$...
i also have the "simple" one that cost only arround 25$ and it's nice.. but not someting powerfull......:shakehead
as i read.. this "Leadlight 105" should be good... i'll keep you posted...
Thanks!

Yuval.

 

[dubois928]

Hey all. I just tried the 1st modification on a laser that is most likely a ledlight, it looks exactly the same. However in taking the button off the pot was somewhat farther down the tube so I had to turn it at an angle. I tried turning it in both directions, and it turned completely off after some turning in both directions. The power seemed to peak somewhere in the middle, which is odd, and even so it seems barely brighter than what it was. I might try getting a green led and ampere meter to see how much power it is giving out. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Kenneth Anderson

 

[brodieboy143]

ok so now im the proud owner of my 1st green laser pointer. so i quickly grab some batteries, install them and guess what....nothing.

same old symptoms of a really dim red dot emitted from the diode...

THE SOLUTION: ALKALINE BATTERIES

yes it sounds simple but a small note in the instructions says alkaline batteries provide higher performance, and in some cases, any performance at all