Milky L1 Information Thread

[phypaa]

Great! Waiting....

 

[Blindasabat]

Got my first SureFire new-style L1 opened and installed a Cree emitter working with the TIROS optic. Here's a quick photo snapped while the light was open...

And?..... Results?...

Don't tease!

 

[alantch]

Good work on finally opening up the new-style L1 Scott. Would love to see some pics of it with the Cree emitter as well as some beamshots if possible.

 

[russtang]

I just received my Milky L1 today. I am very happy with it. Mine has a UWOJ that has a bright white beam.

The one thing I still can't get used to is the lite weight! I don't know why it seems to weigh so little to me. It may be that I have been carrying heavier lights I guess. Its definately lighter than the Ti PD.

Also, it fits my hand just right and is very easy to use.

Maybe my next one will have a cree or maybe a lux v.

 

[MorpheusT1]

Bump



I know a certain McR20 will fit in that New style L1


It will make a nice couple with the Cree.



Benny

 

[Per Arne]

Hi Scott,

Just to let you know that I received my modified SF L1/ML 1 yesterday with the Delrin switch guard, and it is just perfect! This is now one of my EDC lights, it will replace my SF E1E-BK.

The McClicky switch with 15ohms for my SF L4 works perfectly too on both low and high with the lithium batteries!

The light was shipped from Norway 25 October and received 17 November and as shipping takes usually 6-7 days from Norway to USA (one way), this was a very quick and perfectly :goodjob:

I just have a question; which emitter was used in my L1 (UWAJ?) and do you know approx. how much lumen it gives on low and high, runetime?

Thanks again Scott! :twothumbs

Milky L1 :rock:

PA

 

[milkyspit]

Hi Scott,

Just to let you know that I received my modified SF L1/ML 1 yesterday with the Delrin switch guard, and it is just perfect! This is now one of my EDC lights, it will replace my SF E1E-BK.

The McClicky switch with 15ohms for my SF L4 works perfectly too on both low and high with the lithium batteries!

The light was shipped from Norway 25 October and received 17 November and as shipping takes usually 6-7 days from Norway to USA (one way), this was a very quick and perfectly :goodjob:

I just have a question; which emitter was used in my L1 (UWAJ?) and do you know approx. how much lumen it gives on low and high, runetime?

Thanks again Scott! :twothumbs

Milky L1 :rock:

PA

Per Arne, I'm embarrassed to say that I didn't write down which emitter I used! But I'm fairly sure you have a LuxIII UWAJ in yours. Runtime should be typical for your light... here's the Milky L1 runtime chart Leef did some time back...

Glad you're happy with your light.

 

[milkyspit]

The growing Milky L1 family!

Just finished the latest variant of the Milky L1, a Cree P4-WH in an old-style head with hand-cut McR19 reflector... and took the occasion to snap a photo of various ML1 family members and some close cousins...

ML1 Family Portrait, Including Some Cousins!

Left to right...

1. KL1 hybrid head (gen3 bottom, gen4 top) with Cree P3-WC emitter and McR17xr reflector, mounted on a Vital Gear FB1 clicky body

2. L1 new-style head with Cree P3-WC emitter and TIROS optic, running direct drive off 1x123 primary on E1E body

3. A19 head with Cree P3-WC emitter and customized McR19 reflector, Wiz2 500mA light engine, E1E body, McTC clicky tailcap

4. Milky L1 with LuxIII UWAJ emitter and McR18 reflector

5. Milky L1 with Cree P3-WC emitter and McR17xr reflector in new-style L1 body

6. Milky L1 with Cree P4-WH emitter and hand-cut McR19 reflector, mounted in old-style L1 body

7. A2 head with LuxIII UXOJ emitter and hand-cut McR27long reflector, Nexgen 750mA light engine, Aleph 1x123 body, McTC tail with dual stage twisty guts

8. PR-T head with LuxIII TVOJ emitter and ArcMania SuperConverter 600mA driver, mounted on Vital Gear FB1 clicky body

Needless to say, the Milky L1 is now available in original, cyan, Cree old-style, Cree new-style reflectored, Cree new-style TIROS optic, and many more! It's starting to feel like Baskin-Robbins around here! (Note to international readers: Baskin-Robbins is an ice cream chain here in the States that advertises the wide array of flavors they offer.) :naughty:


Thought it was a good time to update the ML1 Colorometer with the new Cree emitters, too...

The Milky L1 Colorometer! (including Cree)

Cree P4-WH (warmest: beige-white)
LuxIII UWOJ ("French vanilla" white)
LuxIII TWOH
Lux1W SWOH (rich white, hotwire friendly)
LuxIII UXOJ
Cree P3-WC (close to the Lumileds XO tint)
LuxIII UWAJ (pure white)
LuxIII UYOJ
LuxIII TYAH (coolest: frosty white)

 

[Sable]

Well, I thought I'd chime in here again.

According to milky, I might be the first person to inflict some significant damage on an ML1. While working on a mountaintop communication tower in subzero weather, my ML1 fell off of said tower. It was around 35 feet or so to the ground.

The only damage is a tiny nick on the anodizing near the bezel crenelations, and I think I've cracked the edge of the (quite stout!) lens. The light still works perfectly, there's just a terrible grinding noise when I tighten the bezel ring.

Now, I suppose I should say that I subscribe to the "beat the everliving hell out of it" school of applied tool-use. In general, I don't baby the things that are in my toolbag or hang out in my pockets. I've broken half a dozen cheap pocket knives (If someone has a good suggestion for a large (~3.5-4" blade) folding knife with or without a clip, PM me!), a couple of Pelican cases and now, apparently a modded Surefire L1. It occurs to me that I might have a bit more of an exciting life than most sysadmins...

That being said, I'm still absolutely thrilled with the ML1, its light output, durability, and size. The light works excellently with my huge subzero mittens, and is easy to find even in deep snow. It even helped me find a ski pole, but that's a story for when I can remember it - that was one hell of a crash. Ow.


Note: Scott isn't paying me to say all of this. I'm just really fond of this little light, and want to give other folks a "real world" look at how they perform in my somewhat unusual line of work.

 

[milkyspit]

Ralls just posted over in the Knight Lights services thread about his long-term experiences with his ML1, thought it might be of some interest... no, I don't pay these folks... oo:

It's been a while since I posted on the forums, but I just wanted to give an update on my Milky L1 that I've had for a few months now. It is hands down the most fantastic light that I have ever owned. I've gotten a handful of compliments on it, the best one coming from a fellow flashaholic saying that out of all the lights that I had owned to date, the Milky L1 was far and away the best and that he was the most jealous of. He loved the beam pattern and especially the wide spill. I've used it a moderate amount in the few months that I've owned it and I've only gone through a few cells, so the battery life is indeed excellent. BTW, I was heavily considering the A2 Aviator, whom a friend owns, and I'm glad that I went with the ML1. Kudos to Milkyspit for making such an excellent light!

 

[Alin10123]

The growing Milky L1 family!

Just finished the latest variant of the Milky L1, a Cree P4-WH in an old-style head with hand-cut McR19 reflector... and took the occasion to snap a photo of various ML1 family members and some close cousins...

ML1 Family Portrait, Including Some Cousins!

Left to right...

1. KL1 hybrid head (gen3 bottom, gen4 top) with Cree P3-WC emitter and McR17xr reflector, mounted on a Vital Gear FB1 clicky body

2. L1 new-style head with Cree P3-WC emitter and TIROS optic, running direct drive off 1x123 primary on E1E body

3. A19 head with Cree P3-WC emitter and customized McR19 reflector, Wiz2 500mA light engine, E1E body, McTC clicky tailcap

4. Milky L1 with LuxIII UWAJ emitter and McR18 reflector

5. Milky L1 with Cree P3-WC emitter and McR17xr reflector in new-style L1 body

6. Milky L1 with Cree P4-WH emitter and hand-cut McR19 reflector, mounted in old-style L1 body

7. A2 head with LuxIII UXOJ emitter and hand-cut McR27long reflector, Nexgen 750mA light engine, Aleph 1x123 body, McTC tail with dual stage twisty guts

8. PR-T head with LuxIII TVOJ emitter and ArcMania SuperConverter 600mA driver, mounted on Vital Gear FB1 clicky body

Needless to say, the Milky L1 is now available in original, cyan, Cree old-style, Cree new-style reflectored, Cree new-style TIROS optic, and many more! It's starting to feel like Baskin-Robbins around here! (Note to international readers: Baskin-Robbins is an ice cream chain here in the States that advertises the wide array of flavors they offer.) :naughty:


Thought it was a good time to update the ML1 Colorometer with the new Cree emitters, too...

The Milky L1 Colorometer! (including Cree)

Cree P4-WH (warmest: beige-white)
LuxIII UWOJ ("French vanilla" white)
LuxIII TWOH
Lux1W SWOH (rich white, hotwire friendly)
LuxIII UXOJ
Cree P3-WC (close to the Lumileds XO tint)
LuxIII UWAJ (pure white)
LuxIII UYOJ
LuxIII TYAH (coolest: frosty white)

Milky you're killing me here. I was gonna purchase an ML1 and i thought i almost had my mind made up. Then you had to go and make a bunch of different variations. LOL

Is there a difference between the old style reflectored and the new style reflectored? I know the old one is shorter, so if there's no benefit to the new one, why should i consider that one?

I'm liking #6. Actually, stuck between 5 and 6.

With regards to the P3 and P4 bins. I know the P3 that you have ends up being whiter, but the P4 ends up being brighter by about 7-10 lumens according to user newbie's finding. Is that difference noticeable to the naked eye?

I'm asking because i'm kind of torn between the two of those bins as well as far as P3 and P4 are concerned. You mention XO and Warmest white as descriptions. Sorry for my inexperience, but i haven't had an XO bin before. So i've got no idea of the differences based on your description. Is there a benefit to the whitest light? Or a slight beige color? Which one do you recommend?

Also, regarding the tailcap between #5 and 6. I see that the #5 looks like it will stand on it's cap. Will #6 do that? Or is that just a little removeable adapter on the end? If i buy an L1 will it come with that?

Thanks

 

[Chronos]

Alin10123,

I just ordered a #6 myself! I'm finding that I prefer warmer tints. Reason? I use my lights primarily outdoors, and I like the color rendition of the warmer tints better. That is why I chose 6 over 5. It looks like 5 has one of OregonShooter's delrin tailcap rings on it- I'm tempted to buy one and try it out. I had an X0 or two before, and it is very white.

Good luck with the decision! I too found myself going back and forth between all the options. I'm just anxious for the little bugger to arrive.

 

[Alin10123]

Alin10123,

I just ordered a #6 myself! I'm finding that I prefer warmer tints. Reason? I use my lights primarily outdoors, and I like the color rendition of the warmer tints better. That is why I chose 6 over 5. It looks like 5 has one of OregonShooter's delrin tailcap rings on it- I'm tempted to buy one and try it out. I had an X0 or two before, and it is very white.

Good luck with the decision! I too found myself going back and forth between all the options. I'm just anxious for the little bugger to arrive.

So the tailcap ring basically doesn't extend the length of the light any right? Since if you consider the length of the switch as part of the length of the light, the #4 doesn't look any longer than #6. Did you get that ring on yours? I would think the ring would probably give the ability to tailstand and then reducew chances of accidental activation as well.

I think i like #6 as well.
So you're saying the warmest "biege" color will be what gives you the best color rendition? Well... in this case it might also be the brightest available bin so far. So i might go with #6 even though this light will be used both indoor and out because you need color rendition indoors too right? hehe

Just waiting for milkyspit to chime in and give his thoughts. He's probably busy though.

Thanks for your thoughts as well chronos.
Did you happen to look at the 27LT from mcgizmo? I'm gonna get one and let milkyspit mod it.

By the way, the pictures are deceiving. They make the light look pretty big. I have an E2e and according to SF's website, the L1 isn't much longer than the E2e. Maybe just a hair longer. Is that correct? What about the diameter? Is it like the E2e or is it thicker? Comparing to the E2e would give me a good idea since i've got one.

 

[Chronos]

Oh have I looked and looked at the 27LT. I got to play with a PD for a week and fell in love, and I really do think a 27LT is in my future. When I do get one it is off to MilkyLabs for tweaking, to be sure!

I used to have a Milky ML-1 and miss it. It is small. It isn't as small as my E1L or A19 but as I remember it is shorter than an E2E. In my hands it fits about perfectly; the A19/E1L are both the same lenght and are a bit too small IMHO. The ML1/L1 is about the ideal length.

From what I can tell the delrin rings don't extend much beyond the tailcap button, so overall length isn't increased by more than a millimeter or so. I too will likely get one to help prevent accidentally turning the light on.

I used to take my L1 hiking- I'd clip it to the bill on a cap and use it as a headlight (taking off the rotating lanyard ring really helps here). A handy 2-stage headlight that was also a flashlight.

My (former) KL5 was a warmer tint and I loved using it outdoors. To my eyes it just seemed easier on the eyes, and color rendition seemed better too. I know there are camps on CPF that will only buy X0 bins, others that only buy V1 bins (warmer). I'm finding that the "french vanilla" tints work better for me.

I think my next big mod will be with an Osram LED. Milky, up to it? Maybe in a first-gen KL3? Maybe a mod to the Chrononster... upgrade the WY0S to an Osram?

 

[Ralls]

Ralls just posted over in the Knight Lights services thread about his long-term experiences with his ML1, thought it might be of some interest... no, I don't pay these folks... oo:

Thanks for quoting me. If I would've known about this thread, I would have posted it here. I like where you're going with the ML1 and it's many new variations. I think every true flashaholic should own one of your beautiful creations. Oh...and thanks to Surefire, as well, for providing a great platform for you to improve upon!

 

[Blindasabat]

Scott, I'm enjoying my UW0J ML1 a ton. Great light. But I'm considering jumping on the Cree train with an ML1 upgrade to my new stlye stock L1. But do you have any beamshots with the Cree XR-E in the optic versus reflector? Approximate output? Is low a lot brighter with the Cree? If so (I'm sure it is), then is there a way to bring it back down? (new resistor in the tailcap?) I'm sure lots of people would like to know to help make their decisions. I may just have to upgrade both my L1's now... <sigh> my poor wallet.

 

[milkyspit]

...

Is there a difference between the old style reflectored and the new style reflectored? I know the old one is shorter, so if there's no benefit to the new one, why should i consider that one?

The reflector in the old-style is shortened to fit, whereas in the new-style there's enough room to fit a deeper reflector. In theory this will give the new-style a tighter beam with greater range, though in practice they're both good performers.

With regards to the P3 and P4 bins. I know the P3 that you have ends up being whiter, but the P4 ends up being brighter by about 7-10 lumens according to user newbie's finding. Is that difference noticeable to the naked eye?

Cree's datasheet says the P4 will on average be 7 lumens brighter than the P3. If I do A-B ceiling bounce tests with both emitters in otherwise identical lights and observe the results carefully, then yes, I can see the difference. But to the human eye it is slight. I'd say tint should be the determinant: if you can handle a warm white (some folks can't), by all means go for the P4, you'll be happy you did. Otherwise go for the P3 and don't look back... I doubt you'll notice a loss in output, but you'll be diggin' the pure white tint.

I'm asking because i'm kind of torn between the two of those bins as well as far as P3 and P4 are concerned. You mention XO and Warmest white as descriptions. Sorry for my inexperience, but i haven't had an XO bin before. So i've got no idea of the differences based on your description. Is there a benefit to the whitest light? Or a slight beige color? Which one do you recommend?

P3-WC is pretty much pure white... if anything, it's ever so slightly cool white. P4-WH is quite clearly a warm white. I don't see green in there, but rather beige in the white with a faint brown (not creamy) sense. On the Luxeon side of things, IMHO the XO tint is the purest, most neutral white available.

To put this in perspective, it's like when you go to the paint store and get a color swatch showing 20 shades of "white"... on the swatch they all look different, but when you really get down to it, I doubt folks will notice that you used antique white as opposed to egg shell white (or whatever)... the house will simply look white.

Counterpoint: flashlights especially in this price range and quality level become as much personal objects, like watches and pocket knives, as they are illumination tools... and as a personal object fine distinctions in tint may be meaningful to the owner even if they have less of a difference in real world performance. Bottom line... tint may be important to you... or not! You're the ultimate authority on that.

Also, regarding the tailcap between #5 and 6. I see that the #5 looks like it will stand on it's cap. Will #6 do that? Or is that just a little removeable adapter on the end? If i buy an L1 will it come with that?

No L1 comes with tailstand capability... for that I can highly recommend OregonShooter's Delrin tailguards. For the nominal fee he charges these can be great accessories! I've got 'em on my two personal Milky L1 lights (one LuxIII UWAJ with McR18 in old-style host, the other Cree P3-WC with McR17xr in new-style host). At this point, the lights would feel naked without them!

 

[Alin10123]

Hey Milkyspit!
Thanks for answering all my questions. I've made up my mind. I'll take one.
I would like the old style body ML1 (since in the review i read that the newer one is slighty larger to hold and since it's shorter). I'll post the details in my paypal. i've got a couple of questions as well but they're simple.

thanks!!
PAYPAL SENT!

 

[milkyspit]

Hey Milkyspit!
Thanks for answering all my questions. I've made up my mind. I'll take one.
I would like the old style body ML1 (since in the review i read that the newer one is slighty larger to hold and since it's shorter). I'll post the details in my paypal. i've got a couple of questions as well but they're simple.

thanks!!
PAYPAL SENT!

Alin, just came in from the garage, where I cut down your McR19 reflector for *your* light! Got your Paypal and hoping to have your light on its way today or tomorrow.

 

[Alin10123]

Alin, just came in from the garage, where I cut down your McR19 reflector for *your* light! Got your Paypal and hoping to have your light on its way today or tomorrow.

Sweet! Thanks!
Did you happen to get the stuff i put in the paypal notes?
I didn't get a reply from the paypal notes so not sure if you got the questions.

Thanks
Aaron