Miter Saw

[VegasF6]

I don't think this wood saw was really the best choice for cutting metals. Besides the hold down issue, metal cutting saws should have a sealed motor to keep any chips from getting in and shorting out "stuff." And different bearings. Perhaps this applies more to steel. Now, I have seen many a miter saw being used as a chop saw, and it didn't kill it right away, but it should shorten the life.
I agree a cold saw is wonderful, though somewhat pricey. I have used a large one at work a few times, and the cuts are so clean I couldn't believe it.
I would have recomended a cheaper metal cutting band saw. Or even a portable band saw. Dewalt does make a "multi cutter saw" that is kind of a cross between a chop saw and a miter saw. It is the DW872. I have tried to talk myself into replacing my chop saw with it, but I am just too cheap
Milwaukee makes one as well, the 6190.

I am not trying to thread crap or anything, just wanted to point out some possible deficiencies. Of course, I could be way off on this, I have worked more with steel. I also have a Craftsman "twin cutter" and when cutting any non ferrous metals you use a lube stick, that is pretty much just a wax. Perhaps just a parrafin wax would work, I can't really comment on that.

 

[MoonRise]

Pablo,

Although a miter saw can cut some aluminum, it is usually not quite the right tool for the job. As stated above.

A cold saw is called that because the chips coming off it are not red hot!

Although there can be and is some cross-over between cutting wood and metal and other things, some cross-over uses are acceptable and (mostly) safe. Others are marginal, and others are dangerous or wrong to varying degrees.

Please use the right tool for the job. Although you can often bash a screw into place (in wood or similar) with a hammer, that is not really the right tool for the job!

A bandsaw (bench, portable, or on a stand), a hand-powered hacksaw, a sawzall, a metal-cutting chop saw, a cold saw, etc, etc, etc are all more appropriate to cutting solid aluminum bars. Or a lathe.

 

[PEU]

Argh! a week asking and receiving good advise, I make the purchase and then in one day 3 replies saying its not a good idea...

Anyway, I wont be using it to cut a lot of ALU, just the casual work, and if I see it as an unfit choice, I think I can sell it for more than I paid for it


Pablo

 

[VegasF6]

I feel bad that I didn't see the post before you made your purchase, it is a very nice saw. Even if you don't use it for metal cutting, I am sure you will find other uses for it. Time for some nice new baseboards in your house? How about a play house for that cute daughter of yours?

Seriously, it probably will hold up, just use the proper blade and some wax.
I might consider bolting the saw to a heavy piece of plywood and mounting a pipe vise off to one side at the same height as the saw table. This would only work if your pieces are long enough of course. They make chain type one's, but I haven't used them. I prefer a regular vice with pipe jaws. Either an inexpensive 4" bench vice, or even a drill press vice would probably work out well. There is a model at sears, I have never used before, but it looks interesting. Search for item# 00951688000 on Sears website.

As long as you don't get hurt, that is what is most important. If the saw fails, you are only out a few dollars, we just don't want you to lose any skin Enjoy your new toy.

 

[gadget_lover]

Like many said, for occasional uses that will be fine. If you were doing production you would want a better setup. I (occasionally) cut aluminum on my wood bandsaw and I get away with it.

You can get a drill press vice that you can bolt to that nice table or to the fence. They are fairly inexpensive.

I'm in the market for a horiz/vertical band saw. Missed a used harbor freight model for only $40.


Daniel

 

[BIGIRON]

You can probably improvise a clamp by using Visegrips or a pipe wrench on longer pieces. A "V" block,(similar to a pipe vise) easily made, as a bed for the stock would help as well.

 

[Lynx_Arc]

I think he will be ok, the place I worked at for years had one guy using one regular name brand chop saw cutting extruded aluminum 8-10 hours a day for years. He would go through a saw every year or so but as much as he cut he was just wearing the saws out. They had other saws that cut aluminum in the plant that were used less that as far as I know never were replaced in the 8 years I worked there. Most decent saws are sealed against sawdust in vital areas including shorting because sawdust could start fires inside a saw. If you have a sharp carbide tipped blade and allow the saw to not get bogged down too much it should have mostly chips off your aluminum. I figure if you use the saw an hour a day cutting aluminum it will last as long as any other saw if you clean it once in awhile to keep it free from dust in the bearings.

 

[precisionworks]

I make the purchase and then in one day 3 replies saying its not a good idea

My greatest concern in the shop (yours or mine) is to leave with as many eyes & fingers as I started with You may want to pick up a couple of the [FONT=arial,sans-serif][SIZE=-1]DW7052 [/SIZE][/FONT] DeWalt clamps like the one below (Amazan & most of the online tool stores offer them). The photo is in the vertical position, but they are used horizontally:

On the DeWalt saws (all their chop saws) there are holes cast into the base to mount the pin - not sure about your Makita, but this wouldn't be hard for you to adapt. If you can't find any, I'd probably part with a couple of mine.

 

[PEU]

Thanks guys!
I will make a holding device to improve safety while using it.


Pablo

 

[MoonRise]

Definitely buy or make some way to securely clamp and hold the workpiece. Your hands do NOT count as a workpiece clamp. Especially when cutting metal.

As mentioned above, if the workpiece shifts just a tiny bit, all Heck will break loose. The piece will twist, the blade may launch carbide teeth from the sudden impact as the work twists and binds, the blade may launch the workpiece, parts may get suddenly and visciously pulled into, through, or across the blade area, etc, etc, etc.

You have to make sure that your hands are nowhere near the blade when you are cutting. Your one hand will be on the saw handle, your other hand should not be near the blade.

At 5000 rpm blade speed, things can happen fast. Literally in less than an eyeblink.

And remember this : The tool doesn't care. It doesn't care if it is cutting wood, or aluminum, or flesh, or bone.

So -you- have to make sure that the tool cuts what -you- want it to.

I still have all my fingers, attached where they are supposed to be, and never detached. And I really want to keep it that way. So I try and remind myself to be careful and think it through.

You can get wax sticks (or use some wax candles or a piece of canning/candle-makeing wax) to rub onto the blade before you cut aluminum. The wax helps keep the aluminum from 'gumming' up on the blade.

A power miter saw is a nice tool to have. For occasional, light duty, cutting of thin section aluminum tube or shapes, with the proper blade and some wax rubbed onto the blade and some clamps to hold the workpiece, it works OK to pretty well. It makes lots of aluminum chips (as you found out), and those chips get all over the place (as you found out).

But to me, a 1" (25mm) or so diameter solid bar/rod of aluminum is a bit past the 'light section' category.

 

[HarryN]

I have used a similar saw for cutting occassional Al stock. (Dewalt version). I was in a hurry, and just decided one day to use the wood blade (carbide tips) to do the work. Cut it all dry - no lube at all. - yes, I know.

The cut rate was very high, and finish was ok for my work. The biggest danger for me was the very amazing way it threw the Al chips. They came from directions I was not used to for this saw, and at higher speeds.

My safety suggestion - consider wearing a mask which covers your entire face, not just safety glasses. Exposed skin is a bad thing with these saws cutting Al.

 

[Lynx_Arc]

yes they do throw a lot of chips and they can get hot if you are cutting thick aluminum and not using anything for the blade. Cutting dry is fine as long as it is only occasionally and not heating up things a bunch that is not alot of cuts on thick material. We used regular chop saws to cut aluminum track for sliding doors at a shop I worked at often with no problems and then cut wood right after that including finished wood so you wouldn't want oil on the blade.

 

[PEU]

When I purchased the blade for ALU I received good advise: dont push into the material, try to go slow. The shavings are so light they can fly but I dont think they can do any damage.
Anyway, I always have my safety glasses when Im machining/cutting stuff.


Pablo

 

[Lynx_Arc]

start out slow for sure if the material is thick don't try and cut faster then a slight slowdown of speed allows unless you are using a lubricant made for cutting aluminum on it I think it can heat up the blade and even possibly ruin the temper of the metal. Always wear safety glasses as tiny chips can be blown into your eyes if you don't by a stray wind as someone walks by or even opens a door perhaps. If you are doing a lot of cutting you may want to either look into a blade sharpening service or learn to do it yourself because good blades for cutting aluminum can be resharpened cheaper many times than buying a new one. When I was cutting aluminum I rarely changed a blade because I wasn't cutting constantly but the guy on the day shift was and changed it perhaps once every few days but he would do nothing but cut for 8-10 hours boxes and boxes of aluminum including pipe and handrail too (decorative).