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Sold/Expired Moddoo Drop-ins: Triple CREE XP-E

LightJunk

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Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
751
Location
Portland, OR
Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

Hi Dan,

Please move me #3 - Triple-XPE R2 WH clear narrow 1-level ~600 lumen to the XP-G waiting list.

Cheers,
LightJunk
 

ElectronGuru

Flashaholic
Joined
Aug 18, 2007
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6,055
Location
Oregon
Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

Please post for all adds
Please PM me for all changes

Thanks,
Dan
 

Moddoo

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Nov 19, 2008
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Minnesota
Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

OK fellas,

Here's a quick run down of the improvements made to the triples:

Custom built solid copper LED mounting plate.

LEDs are soldered directly to copper.

3 screws hold the copper to a bare aluminum surface inside the solid drop-in heat sink.

Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound is used between the copper and aluminum.

Tight clearance between copper LED plate edge and aluminum heat sink result in over 50% more thermal contact area than a standard star.

The drop-in is hard anodized black for superior thermal emissivity and durability.

The triple circle logo is milled after the black hardcoat.

Stiffer conical positive contact spring.

Custom built copper negative contact fits inside the drop-in to ensure a perfect fit and conductivity.

24 gauge mil-spec wire with 19 strand, silver-plated copper conductors, teflon insulated.

I just got back from the shop and threw one together quickly so you guys could see it.

coppertripleproto049.jpg
coppertripleproto056.jpg


coppertripleproto059.jpg
coppertripleproto063.jpg


coppertripleproto084.jpg
 
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QtrHorse

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Joined
May 2, 2008
Messages
1,159
Location
Texas
Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

I like the new changes. The copper and black combo is visually pleasing.

The lenses are easily changed, correct? I would like to try a clear and then a frosted. Can we order extra lenses with the drop-in?
 
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abuhannibal

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May 18, 2008
Messages
83
Location
Israel
Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

Please add me to the XP-G waiting list as well (clear lens) and let me know if you need funds up front. Thanks! These look AMAZING.
 

manoloco

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Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
690
Location
Lima, Perú
Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

i knew it!, in the previous sale thread i posted about it being easier to mod, this is definitely it, i have one question i will send via PM

looks awesom Moddoo! :thumbsup:
 

QtrHorse

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Joined
May 2, 2008
Messages
1,159
Location
Texas
Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

Electron,

I would like my lens not glued and would like to purchase either one or two extra lenses if possible.
 
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Justin Case

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Mar 19, 2008
Messages
3,797
Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

That is a really nice-looking product. Some questions/comments:

It looks like the copper LED mounting plate might be thicker than the Cutter star that was used in version 1. Is that the case or is the copper plate the same thickness? If it's a different thickness, that might cause some issues if one wanted to upgrade the LEDs (e.g., to a triple XP-G) using a standard star (e.g., the optic might be recessed below the top face of the heat sink). Also, the location of the screw holes look to be different vs the screw cutouts for the Cutter star, which would preclude using the screw holes to secure a Cutter star.

I don't see any wires to hook up the LEDs in parallel. Does that mean that you've also designed the copper mounting plate to connect the XP-E's + and - solder pads in parallel automatically when you solder the LEDs to the plate? I assume that's the function of the groove in the plate -- electrical separation of the + and - pads on the emitter bases? I also assume that it set up so that LED- is the same as GND, which would be accomplished via screws connecting the copper plate to the aluminum heat sink. So you then just run a wire directly from the driver LED+ to the center section of the copper plate? The AMC7135 and the SOB drivers both share LED- and GND, so this works out. But not all drivers share LED- and GND (although off-hand I can't think of one that is 14mm or 17mm -- the much bigger 1.1" hipCC is an example). If the copper plate is the same thickness as the Cutter star, then IMO this copper mounting plate is a really nice improvement overall. Eliminates using hookup wires to connect the LEDs in parallel, looks cleaner, and has better thermal mass than an aluminum MCPCB.

For my Cutter star, I had to file the star for it to fit into the top of the heat sink. A little thermal compound, and the star has tight, full thermal contact at the bottom and sides. So, the claimed advantage of increased thermal contact using the copper plate isn't clear to me. You will get greater thermal mass with the copper, which is a good thing. However, I probably would have used a 100% brass heat sink to get comparable thermal mass to copper, and better than that for aluminum. A brass heat sink would also allow directly soldering ground connections between the driver and sink without needing the custom driver contact collar.

The black anodizing is nice, but do you really think you get much thermal transfer via radiation vs conduction to take advantage of increased emissivity?
 
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sohl

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Aug 8, 2008
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sweden
Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

Looks really nice. Do you have any beamshoots?
 

Moddoo

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Nov 19, 2008
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Minnesota
Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

Some good Questions JustinCase.

These are redesigned from the ground up for the best possible thermal performance.

The copper is 33% thicker that the cutter star. This would leave the optic recessed by about .030" if someone were to use a star.

The cutter stars do not really have room for screws. I suppose you might be able to modify the star to allow screws if you really wanted to.

The copper mounting plate is designed to allow a single wire for each + and - connection to the 3 LEDs in parallel.

The copper has a tighter fit and smoother sides than the aluminum star. However, pretending this makes no difference, the copper still has over 20% more contact area with the aluminum heatsink.

Also, the solid copper has much better thermal properties than an aluminum MCPCB.

The Black Hard Anodized surface has 10 times better thermal radiation than either bare brass or aluminum
 
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Linger

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Feb 17, 2009
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1,437
Location
Kingston ON
Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

Very impressive. You have put a lot of thought into this. The precision detailing is inspiring. Can you put up a 'making of?' set of images, or does that already come in the collector's edition decorative box?

Best,
L
 

Justin Case

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Mar 19, 2008
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3,797
Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

Some good Questions JustinCase.

These are redesigned from the ground up for the best possible thermal performance.

The copper is 33% thicker that the cutter star. This would leave the optic recessed by about .030" if someone were to use a star.

The cutter stars do not really have room for screws. I suppose you might be able to modify the star to allow screws if you really wanted to.

The copper mounting plate is designed to allow a single wire for each + and - connection to the 3 LEDs in parallel.

The copper has a tighter fit and smoother sides than the aluminum star. However, pretending this makes no difference, the copper still has over 20% more contact area with the aluminum heatsink.

Also, the solid copper has much better thermal properties than an aluminum MCPCB.

The Black Hard Anodized surface has 10 times better thermal radiation than either bare brass or aluminum

A gap of 0.03" could allow a non-glued optic to move about 3/4 of a mm vertically. The beauty of the original design was that you could use a standard star and the optic would be flush with the top of the drop-in. That would allow mechanical restraint of the optic from moving around if you use a G&P or Solarforce bezel. Thus, you can keep the optic unglued for ease of upgrading later on.

Still hard for me to picture that the incrementally thicker copper mounting plate really matters in terms of heat sinking, especially relative to the heat sinking contribution from the massive drop-in itself. For me, the potential benefits of the copper mounting plate are outweighed by the fact that the drop-in is no longer 100% compatible with typical thickness MCPCB stars. If the copper mounting plate had been the same thickness as a typical star, then that would have been a win-win IMO.

Also hard for me to picture that there is much radiative heat transfer going on, especially if I use thermal compound on the heat sink to maximize conductive heat transfer to the flashlight neck.

A brass drop-in body, a la Malkoff, would have far superior thermal mass vs aluminum and from a relative size argument, it would seem that this would give you a much bigger bang for the buck for thermal management compared to using a copper mounting plate and black anodizing.

Inspection of my Cutter triple MCPCB installed in my Version 1 triple heat sink shows that there are 6 half-moon cutouts evenly spaced around the rim of the triple board. The size of these cutouts is larger than the holes for the legs of the triple optic and there appears to be available space to drill some screw holes and run some small screws. I estimate that a small pan head M2 machine screw would work. I agree that the available room is tight. A large pan head M2 is probably too big. The main question is if the small pan head M2 has enough head overlap area to engage the triple securely to hold it down.
 
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Stillphoto

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Mar 14, 2005
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Orange County
Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

How is the drop-in lens affixed?

I believe a silicon based adhesive - keeps it in place but should be easy to remove optic from should you so desire. I could be completely wrong though haha...
 

Justin Case

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Mar 19, 2008
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Re: Moddoo Customs: Triple CREE XP-E (reservations open)

Best to use a glue that is compatible with PMMA. Probably not super glue. Cree recommends 3M™ Scotch-Weld™ Epoxy Adhesive DP190.
 
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