My initial thoughts on my new ZebraLight SC51

[Fireclaw18]

I just checked out the ZL website and learned that this light is less than a mere 2 mm longer and larger in diameter than the SC51. This doesn't seem like very much, yet you said it was "noticeably larger". Do you have both lights? I am becoming more intrigued by the SC80, thanks to your comments.

I am thinking that since it's hardly much larger (on paper), and that it has the bonus of running on different batteries, and that it does not have to be locked out, that maybe this is the light I should have purchased, and that it very well could be MY "perfect" light.

Does anyone know if it puts out the same beam (brightness, spill, throw, etc.) as the SC51, which I think is "perfect" for general purpose.

I had both lights (SC80 and SC51).

The SC80 is about the same size as a Sunwayman V11R. It's only a tiny bit larger than the SC51. About the same length, but slightly wider. It is however, noticeably heavier than the SC51. The SC80 has very thick battery tube sidewalls, plus the brass adapter insert adds extra weight.

The reflectors and beam patterns are identical on both lights. The pure white tint on my SC80 is better than the slightly greenish tint on the SC51.

 

[jbrett14]

I had both lights (SC80 and SC51).

The SC80 is about the same size as a Sunwayman V11R. It's only a tiny bit larger than the SC51. About the same length, but slightly wider. It is however, noticeably heavier than the SC51. The SC80 has very thick battery tube sidewalls, plus the brass adapter insert adds extra weight.

The reflectors and beam patterns are identical on both lights. The pure white tint on my SC80 is better than the slightly greenish tint on the SC51.

The more I got to thinking about it, the more I realized that the option to use CR123's would be of little value to me in the real world. I can't think of a time I would use them over the AA option for this particular light, given that the specs are not that much different, as far as light output. With this light, I cannot see the advantage of using a CR123 battery. Maybe I am missing something.

With this in mind, and other than the better switch on the SC80, is there any other reason you would recommend it over the SC51? If it's just a matter of the switch, I am thinking I might still prefer the 30% lighter weight of the SC51 over the better switch of the SC80.

 

[blo9]

Hi,

I just want to give you my thoughts of the SC51.
I am kind of new into this flashlight-thing. I started to buy some Fenix lights, LD15 (very small AA, twisty two-mode), PD32 (18650 XGP-R5 multimode, 315lumen) and a E05 for my keychain.
My LD15 is not easy to twist with one hand and it comes on in high. (Using shorter AAs makes the twist slightly easier).
The PD32 is my "monster" to be used when you really need a flashlight. However 18650 batteries makes me a bit scared.
The E05 is perfect for almost all things around the house, which makes it very good since it is always with me. Mostly it serves as a backup.

Then I bought the SC51. Yes, I have only had it for about two weeks but I have already accidentally got it 'on' in my pocket. But since it gets very hot, you feel it =).
What I really like is the level customization/memory, meaning you can select what levels you want as default when cycling through.
But the best part is that when long-pressing it gets on in low, in my case I have chosen the lowest.
That is superior when watching the children before you go to sleep or if you need to go downstairs during the night etc... it also serves very well as a candle, lightening the roof.
I got the SC51c, which makes colors really true. I got no natural whites or warm white in comparison though.
The brightness of these 130 lumens are more than I need in most of the cases. Actually my brother bought the SC51 cool blue with 220l, I really couldn't tell if it was so much more brighter during daytime-test inside my house.

BR
Johnnie - Sweden

 

[GunnarGG]

jbrett, I'm with you here about your thoughts of the SC51.
I have the SC30 that is very similar except the battery size.
Everything about it is great except the switch problem.

I would really like the same light but AA, so the SC51, but haven't got it beacuse of the switch.
The day Zebralight put the upgraded swithc they have on SC80, SC600 on the SC51 I will buy it.
There are posts about glueing an o-ring around the switch to eliminate the problem and I have done that and can say it works very well.
Maybe not the prettiest mod but functional.

 

[windmill]

Jbret14 I still haven't got it, (the SC600) since my order is just a week old.

From posts I've read before buying the light, people say that there is very very little possibility of it turning on accidentally, the switch is much more recessed and also stiffer to activate.

As you, I was attracted by the slickness, lightweight and portability of the SC51 but, since to me it's very important to have a reliable source of light when I need it, I decided to go with the SC600. (Had to buy batteries and charger but going to get 750 lumens ;-) )

I've got a H51w headlamp and even if it has a different shape it has indeed once turned on by itself in my backpack.

I can overlook this flaw on a headlamp as the H51w is, because the intended use is different and usually doesn't require a quick access but a prolonged always on use. (I loosen it before packing it and then tighten it before use)

I'll surely not buy another Zebralight with a switch so easy to engage, especially if I'm going to carry it in my pocket.

The great UI makes me hate even more having to twist it before turning it on, it is a nonsense.

 

[Fireclaw18]

The more I got to thinking about it, the more I realized that the option to use CR123's would be of little value to me in the real world. I can't think of a time I would use them over the AA option for this particular light, given that the specs are not that much different, as far as light output. With this light, I cannot see the advantage of using a CR123 battery. Maybe I am missing something.

With this in mind, and other than the better switch on the SC80, is there any other reason you would recommend it over the SC51? If it's just a matter of the switch, I am thinking I might still prefer the 30% lighter weight of the SC51 over the better switch of the SC80.

If you don't want to use CR123 batteries you can remove the brass insert from the SC80, which makes it noticeably lighter weight.

Reasons why the SC80 is better than the SC51:
1. Perfect ergonomics - as a pocket EDC, the SC80 feels great in the hand. It's almost fully knurled so the grip is very secure. And the deeply recessed electronic switch is at just the right position. When you reach into your pocket to grab the SC80 your thumb naturally falls onto the button. No groping around. I own dozens of different EDC sized flashlights, and the SC80 has the best "hand feel" of them all. (this is from the perspective of a light carried loose in the pocket without pocket clip installed).

2. Faster operation - Turning on the SC51 is a two step process. First you have to screw in the tailcap, then flip the light around in your hand and press the button. The tube is not knurled and quite slippery. Even with lockout, it's quite possible for the tailcap to turn in the pocket disabling the lockout causing the light to turn on accidentally. These are non-issues for the SC80.... you just press the button. Tailcap lockout is unnecessary.

3. Slightly brighter than the SC51 - though not enough to be noticeable.

4. Better tint - my cool white SC80 has a much better tint than my cool white SC51 did. Of course this would be a non-issue if you get the neutral tint versions.

5. Current controlled - the SC80 is current controlled at all brightness settings. The SC51 uses PWM for some of its lower modes, though I think the PWM is fast enough to not be noticeable to the eye. This should mean the SC80 would have a slightly longer battery life at low modes.


If I had to pick either the SC51 or SC80 as my EDC pocket light I'd definitely pick the SC80 as it's much better suited for the purpose. Neither light is perfect though. I'd personally prefer an SC80 shaped light, that only uses AA/14500 so would be narrower and smaller. And would use an XM-L for more lumens.

 

[srfreddy]

The drivers forthe SC51 and H51 are now all current controlled on all modes, and apparently, the H1->H2 is more noticeable as well.

 

[twl]

The reasons to use CR123 or other lithium based batteries are several.

#1 is that there is more power capacity in a CR123 than an alkaline AA.
#2 is that the CR123 is better suited to high output, while the alkaline AA sags heavily and does better on low outputs.
#3 is that CR123 batteries don't leak like alkaline AA.
#4 is that the 3v voltage of the CR123 battery is closer to the forward voltage of the LED, so it doesn't need as much boost from the regulator, which is tough on batteries(especially alkalines).
#5 is that CR123 is shorter than AA, so it you like a shorter(but slightly fatter) light, it's good for that.

NiMh AA solve some of these problems, but not all.
AA is basically a mass-market consumer battery that makes it easy for beginners to move into the hobby.
When you get into the more exotic rechargeable Li-Ion batteries with 4.2v and high capacity, then you are really talking.
A 18650 in an SC600 or the headlamp equivalents are where it's at, if you want to continue with the Zebralight experience.

 

[jbrett14]

Hi,

I just want to give you my thoughts of the SC51.
I am kind of new into this flashlight-thing. I started to buy some Fenix lights, LD15 (very small AA, twisty two-mode), PD32 (18650 XGP-R5 multimode, 315lumen) and a E05 for my keychain.
My LD15 is not easy to twist with one hand and it comes on in high. (Using shorter AAs makes the twist slightly easier).
The PD32 is my "monster" to be used when you really need a flashlight. However 18650 batteries makes me a bit scared.
The E05 is perfect for almost all things around the house, which makes it very good since it is always with me. Mostly it serves as a backup.

Then I bought the SC51. Yes, I have only had it for about two weeks but I have already accidentally got it 'on' in my pocket. But since it gets very hot, you feel it =).
What I really like is the level customization/memory, meaning you can select what levels you want as default when cycling through.
But the best part is that when long-pressing it gets on in low, in my case I have chosen the lowest.
That is superior when watching the children before you go to sleep or if you need to go downstairs during the night etc... it also serves very well as a candle, lightening the roof.
I got the SC51c, which makes colors really true. I got no natural whites or warm white in comparison though.
The brightness of these 130 lumens are more than I need in most of the cases. Actually my brother bought the SC51 cool blue with 220l, I really couldn't tell if it was so much more brighter during daytime-test inside my house.

BR
Johnnie - Sweden

From one Jonny to another (Johnnie), thanks for sharing your thoughts.

Jonny from Michigan

 

[jbrett14]

jbrett, I'm with you here about your thoughts of the SC51.
I have the SC30 that is very similar except the battery size.
Everything about it is great except the switch problem.

I would really like the same light but AA, so the SC51, but haven't got it beacuse of the switch.
The day Zebralight put the upgraded swithc they have on SC80, SC600 on the SC51 I will buy it.
There are posts about glueing an o-ring around the switch to eliminate the problem and I have done that and can say it works very well.
Maybe not the prettiest mod but functional.

It's unfortunate about the switch, as it seems to be many folks complaint. We shouldn't have to be gluing O-rings onto lights that cost this much, right?

I want to add that there are many tail end clickies that have this same problem. Especially any forward clicky. They are easily turned on if in a pack, unless locked out by unscrewing. So this isn't really unique to ZebraLight. It's the nature of having a click switch.

Jonny

 

[jbrett14]

Jbret14 I still haven't got it, (the SC600) since my order is just a week old.

From posts I've read before buying the light, people say that there is very very little possibility of it turning on accidentally, the switch is much more recessed and also stiffer to activate.

As you, I was attracted by the slickness, lightweight and portability of the SC51 but, since to me it's very important to have a reliable source of light when I need it, I decided to go with the SC600. (Had to buy batteries and charger but going to get 750 lumens ;-) )

I've got a H51w headlamp and even if it has a different shape it has indeed once turned on by itself in my backpack.

I can overlook this flaw on a headlamp as the H51w is, because the intended use is different and usually doesn't require a quick access but a prolonged always on use. (I loosen it before packing it and then tighten it before use)

I'll surely not buy another Zebralight with a switch so easy to engage, especially if I'm going to carry it in my pocket.

The great UI makes me hate even more having to twist it before turning it on, it is a nonsense.

I have considered the SC600 as well since I already have the batteries and charger, currently being used for my JetBeam BC40 and Shiningbeam S-mini.

I also have a ZL headlight (H501) in which the switch issue is of no concern. I keep this light in a compartment in my toolbox and it never is accidentally activated. It's a GREAT headlight for work or camping.

I hear ya regarding hating even more to have to twist it first. It kind of defeats the purpose of simplicity.

Jonny

 

[jbrett14]

If you don't want to use CR123 batteries you can remove the brass insert from the SC80, which makes it noticeably lighter weight.

Reasons why the SC80 is better than the SC51:
1. Perfect ergonomics - as a pocket EDC, the SC80 feels great in the hand. It's almost fully knurled so the grip is very secure. And the deeply recessed electronic switch is at just the right position. When you reach into your pocket to grab the SC80 your thumb naturally falls onto the button. No groping around. I own dozens of different EDC sized flashlights, and the SC80 has the best "hand feel" of them all. (this is from the perspective of a light carried loose in the pocket without pocket clip installed).

2. Faster operation - Turning on the SC51 is a two step process. First you have to screw in the tailcap, then flip the light around in your hand and press the button. The tube is not knurled and quite slippery. Even with lockout, it's quite possible for the tailcap to turn in the pocket disabling the lockout causing the light to turn on accidentally. These are non-issues for the SC80.... you just press the button. Tailcap lockout is unnecessary.

3. Slightly brighter than the SC51 - though not enough to be noticeable.

4. Better tint - my cool white SC80 has a much better tint than my cool white SC51 did. Of course this would be a non-issue if you get the neutral tint versions.

5. Current controlled - the SC80 is current controlled at all brightness settings. The SC51 uses PWM for some of its lower modes, though I think the PWM is fast enough to not be noticeable to the eye. This should mean the SC80 would have a slightly longer battery life at low modes.


If I had to pick either the SC51 or SC80 as my EDC pocket light I'd definitely pick the SC80 as it's much better suited for the purpose. Neither light is perfect though. I'd personally prefer an SC80 shaped light, that only uses AA/14500 so would be narrower and smaller. And would use an XM-L for more lumens.

Thanks for your thoughts. Much appreciated. I can certainly see your arguments for #. 1 & 2

Jonny

 

[jbrett14]

The reasons to use CR123 or other lithium based batteries are several.

#1 is that there is more power capacity in a CR123 than an alkaline AA.
#2 is that the CR123 is better suited to high output, while the alkaline AA sags heavily and does better on low outputs.
#3 is that CR123 batteries don't leak like alkaline AA.
#4 is that the 3v voltage of the CR123 battery is closer to the forward voltage of the LED, so it doesn't need as much boost from the regulator, which is tough on batteries(especially alkalines).
#5 is that CR123 is shorter than AA, so it you like a shorter(but slightly fatter) light, it's good for that.

NiMh AA solve some of these problems, but not all.
AA is basically a mass-market consumer battery that makes it easy for beginners to move into the hobby.
When you get into the more exotic rechargeable Li-Ion batteries with 4.2v and high capacity, then you are really talking.
A 18650 in an SC600 or the headlamp equivalents are where it's at, if you want to continue with the Zebralight experience.

Yeah, I agree regarding the 18650. I have a couple lights that use them and I love them. Pound for pound, they are GREAT batteries\lights.

But I don't think what you are saying regarding the CR123 is true when comparing the SC51 to the SC80. From the ZebraLight specs, they are practically the same. And IF they are the same, it seems the AA would be a better way to go.

Jonny

 

[twl]

The SC80 has to default to the longer length to accept the AA battery along with the CR123, so that's why it doesn't seem any different.
If you look at the SC31 which takes only the CR123, it's a half inch shorter. Same output level.

 

[tobrien]

what is current controlled anyways?

 

[Fireclaw18]

what is current controlled anyways?

There are 2 common methods for producing an electronic circuit that can adjust the brightness of an LED light:

1. PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) - the LED will flash on and off at very high speed. By varying the amount of time it is off compared to when it is on the visible brightness of the light can be adjusted. Fast PWM is imperceptible to the eye. Slow PWM gives a strobing effect when the light is moved quickly or shined on something moving fast, such as a moving fan blade. PWM has the advantage that because the LED is at full power, the tint remains the same no matter what brightness the light is set at. However, PWM is somewhat less efficient than current-control so battery life may not be as long.

2. Current Control - the LED is dimmed by restricted the amps allowed to get to the LED. Less amps to the LED means the LED will dim. Since the LED remains lit at all times there's no strobing effect like with slow PWM. However, modern LEDs tend to "tint shift" at lower drive currents. instead of a nice pure white at max power, you might get a greenish hue at low power. Current control is generally more efficient than PWM. Current control can be done without fancy electronics using QTC (quantum tunneling composite), a spongy material that acts as a resistor when expanded and has its resistance drop when compressed.

 

[jbrett14]

The SC80 has to default to the longer length to accept the AA battery along with the CR123, so that's why it doesn't seem any different.
If you look at the SC31 which takes only the CR123, it's a half inch shorter. Same output level.

That's right. I was referring to the actual light output rather than the physical length though. With regards to light output, I see no advantage of a CR123 over the AA, with Zebralight lights. The SC51 is plenty short enough for my taste.

 

[windmill]

I have considered the SC600 as well since I already have the batteries and charger, currently being used for my JetBeam BC40 and Shiningbeam S-mini.

I also have a ZL headlight (H501) in which the switch issue is of no concern. I keep this light in a compartment in my toolbox and it never is accidentally activated. It's a GREAT headlight for work or camping.

I hear ya regarding hating even more to have to twist it first. It kind of defeats the purpose of simplicity.

Jonny

Yes, to me having to twist the tailcap in order to activate the light with a clicky switch doesn't make sense.

A clicky has the advantage of being readily available, not being able to directly switch the light on, kind of makes the great UI less appealing.

As others have said, and if you don't want the bigger SC600, maybe you should consider the SC80 that has the modified switch.


Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[jbrett14]

As others have said, and if you don't want the bigger SC600, maybe you should consider the SC80 that has the modified switch.

Question for anyone who owns the SC80: Does the brass insert have to be used for BOTH types of batteries?

I reallize that it was said it could be removed when using an AA battery, to reduce the weight problem, but it appears from the ZebraLight website that it is even used with the AA battery, with the battery sitting in the hollow end. I am guessing this is to prevent it from wobbling around. Yes, no?

 

[Fireclaw18]

Question for anyone who owns the SC80: Does the brass insert have to be used for BOTH types of batteries?

I reallize that it was said it could be removed when using an AA battery, to reduce the weight problem, but it appears from the ZebraLight website that it is even used with the AA battery, with the battery sitting in the hollow end. I am guessing this is to prevent it from wobbling around. Yes, no?

The brass insert can be used with AA. But I've found that the spring is strong enough it isn't really needed. I use mine with AA / 14500 all the time without the insert and I get no battery rattle.