My initial thoughts on my new ZebraLight SC51

[jbrett14]

The brass insert can be used with AA. But I've found that the spring is strong enough it isn't really needed. I use mine with AA / 14500 all the time without the insert and I get no battery rattle.

Thanks Fireclaw, I really appreciate that information. The SC80 is certainly becoming more and more tempting to buy even though I doubt I would ever use it with CR123's.

Jonny

 

[HighlanderNorth]

Hasn't happened yet.

The newest Zebralights have a new switch that is smaller, more deeply recessed, and requires much more pressure to cycle (SC600, SC80, H600, H502). The older zebralight models, such as the SC51 you just purchased still use the old switch.

The new switch is excellent. My SC80 has virtually no chance of coming on accidentally in the pocket and tailcap lockout is completely unnecessary. As an EDC pocket flashlight its ergonomics and feel in the hand are quite a bit better than the SC51. The downside is it's also more expensive and noticeably larger.

Hopefully Zebralight will come out with an SC52 that would be like the SC51 except with the newer switch. Or perhaps come out with a AA optimized light like the SC80, just much thinner. But for now, such models don't exist.

Have you tried both the SC80 and the SC51? I have considered both lights, and so far the only reason I liked the SC80 more is that it can use either AA or CR123 batts. But if the switch on the SC51 is likely to come on in my pocket I wont consider it. I was not aware of this so I'm glad I read this thread! I wouldve bought it unknowingly then had to send it back because that is a problem for me. I bought the Spark SL5-210CW, and it has 2 switches that do the same thing, but the side switch is really easy to click and isnt recessed very deeply, so it would be a problem if carried in my pocket.

I own a SC600, and there isnt a snowballs chance in he!! that it will come in in my pocket due to its recessed design and the amount of pressure required to switch it on. I assumed the other ZL lights were the same.

But the SC80 is an expensive light for an AA light or a single CR123 light. Whats the beam profile like?

 

[jbrett14]

But if the switch on the SC51 is likely to come on in my pocket I wont consider it. I was not aware of this so I'm glad I read this thread! I wouldve bought it unknowingly then had to send it back because that is a problem for me.

I assumed the other ZL lights were the same.

It's not "likely" to come on, it WILL come on. It's just a matter of time. So unless you don't mind locking out the light by twisting the end cap, I would NOT buy this light (the SC51). It's a great light, but it does require a lock out if you want to pocket carry it.

I am glad this thread was helpful to you. It's nice to be able to learn from other folks experiences.

I too, "assumed the other ZL lights were the same", given that it's been well over a year since the issue (accidental turn on) was first talked about. Not sure why ZL is still selling EDC pocket lights that will accidentally turn on in the pocket. Perhaps they are just trying to unload all the ones they had made, on suckers like me who ASSUME.

 

[tobrien]

There are 2 common methods for producing an electronic circuit that can adjust the brightness of an LED light:

1. PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) - the LED will flash on and off at very high speed. By varying the amount of time it is off compared to when it is on the visible brightness of the light can be adjusted. Fast PWM is imperceptible to the eye. Slow PWM gives a strobing effect when the light is moved quickly or shined on something moving fast, such as a moving fan blade. PWM has the advantage that because the LED is at full power, the tint remains the same no matter what brightness the light is set at. However, PWM is somewhat less efficient than current-control so battery life may not be as long.

2. Current Control - the LED is dimmed by restricted the amps allowed to get to the LED. Less amps to the LED means the LED will dim. Since the LED remains lit at all times there's no strobing effect like with slow PWM. However, modern LEDs tend to "tint shift" at lower drive currents. instead of a nice pure white at max power, you might get a greenish hue at low power. Current control is generally more efficient than PWM. Current control can be done without fancy electronics using QTC (quantum tunneling composite), a spongy material that acts as a resistor when expanded and has its resistance drop when compressed.

thanks for the explanation!

so is one better than another in all or certain situations?

 

[reppans]

thanks for the explanation!

so is one better than another in all or certain situations?

Current control is almost always considered better, as well as more efficient. The two instance where I might consider PWM better is when you have to cough up your hard earned $$ to pay for a light, and then maybe for certain light painting/drawing effects in photography... ;-)

 

[Fireclaw18]

Current control is almost always considered better, as well as more efficient. The two instance where I might consider PWM better is when you have to cough up your hard earned $$ to pay for a light, and then maybe for certain light painting/drawing effects in photography... ;-)

My opinion in order of preference:
1. Current control for neutral and warm emitters - most efficient and the tint shift isn't so noticeable with these tints.
2. Fast PWM for cool white emitters - keeps the pure white look even at low brightness settings.
3. current control for cool white emitters - most efficient, but tint can shift from pure white towards ugly greenish at low power settings.
4. Slow PWM - visible ugly strobing can cause headaches especially when the light is moved fast.

 

[twl]

I was at a friend's house last night, and I used his Zebralight SC600 for a little while.

While the switch on the SC600 is definitely improved over the SC51, I still just don't like the UI.
It's unnecessarily complex, and cumbersome to use. I just don't like it. I understand others do like it, but I don't.
I gave it another try last night, just to be fair.
He's a Zebralight dealer, and I could have got one for dealer cost if I wanted it. And I tried. But in the end, I left without getting one. It just doesn't do it for me.