My pimped-out Nuwai Quantum-III

[milkyspit]

Absolite, haven't placed the order for those switches yet because I keep upgrading the quantity that I'll order! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif Many will be destined for my MC2 (Milky Candle version 2) build, some will be sold in fairly large quantities to other modders, and I'm thinking the remainder will go to B/S/T for anyone who'd like one.

Might also make sense to have Wayne stock them in his Sandwich Shoppe as a convenience item, but I haven't talked to him about that possibility yet.

Regarding the low stage resistor, I used 10 ohms and like it very much. Keep in mind that I'm running a Dorcy board in my pimpadelic QIII, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif not the stock circuit, so you might find a different value more appropriate... but for what it's worth, I also use 10 ohms in my homemade dual brightness Arc LS mods, so it seems to be a pretty good first guess for most of these single cell lights. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Krit]

How to compare stock circuit to Madmax+, I know rarely about circuit. I will change stock luxIII to TX0J, eventhough I plan to use r123a for economicaly use.

 

[milkyspit]

Krit, I've never tested head-to-head, but I think the MadMax+ would initially be markedly brighter than the stock QIII circuit, and both would probably run for about the same amount of time. As far as the R123, my hunch is that it'll be sending power to your LED in essentially direct drive, meaning the circuit isn't operating at all... in fact, you could probably remove the stock circuit entirely and just wire the R123 straight to the Luxeon, and get the same brightness.

 

[absoLite]

I'm thinking of grinding down the somewhat sharp edges of the bezel to reduce overall length and to save my jeans pockets from destruction /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Scott, you said you did remove the bezel using 2 pliers.
Does the lens separate from the bezel this way so the bezel can be worked with without fear of damaging some important parts ?

 

[milkyspit]

Absolite, I don't know if the lens separates this way, but my guess is that it DOES come out one way or another. The reflector might be threaded into place from the inside, and once that's unscrewed (or maybe a retaining ring is removed or something), it probably falls out to allow the lens to be swapped. I'm just speculating on this, though! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

If I have time tonight, I'll take a look... but not sure I'll get the time, today's pretty busy.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif

 

[ledaholic]

The reflector unscrews from the bezel. I had to use heat to soften the loctite or whatever they used.

 

[absoLite]

Ok, I think I will protect the lens (and the rest of the bezel) by some tape or so and then try to remove the edges with the bezel mounted.

 

[PaulB]

Strap wrenches ! Rubber belted "wrenches".
They work very well and will never scratch. You should be able to seperate the head from the body with strap wrenches.
You can get them almost anywhere. Got mine at Harbor Freight.

Milky, I still want 2 of those switches.
Let me know when to send $.

Abso, I had the same thought about removing the crowns on the bezel. If you do it, can you post a picture ?
I think there is a product called "aluminum black" that could be used on the bare aluminum so it will look half-way decent when done.
Thanks !

 

[absoLite]

PaulB, sure I will post a picture when it's done, but that could be just well after X-mas, because the QIII will be a gift for me and I'm not sure if I want to "ruin" the light before already /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[ledaholic]

Strap wrenches will not work to remove the reflector from the bezel as the reflector is screwed down inside of the bezel.

 

[PaulB]

The strap wrenches are for unscrewing the head from the body only.

 

[Blades]

[ QUOTE ]
milkyspit said:
3. Removed the switch from inside the tailcap, and inserted an O-ring to recess the rubber boot just enough for the light to stand upright.

[/ QUOTE ]

That is what I need to do, my light came on yesterday, and I found out because it was a little warm. Since I carry IWB, I was starting to cook some important pieces of my body. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif How do I install the O-ring, and do you know what size, or can I send it to you??



Blades

 

[Krit]

Hi milkyspit, Thanks for advices. I try to change to MM+ but if use r123a it might becomes DD as you said.

I replace with other nuwai 2 stage switch. The low level is run so long.

I replace stock lens with 22 mm. glass from Dat2Zip which is very clear.

 

[milkyspit]

Congratulations, Krit! Those are some GREAT photos, too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Cool! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Anglepoise]

Krit,
Could you detail the procedure you adopted to replace the plastic lens with a glass one.

I would like to do the mod but need to know what tools etc I need.

 

[Robocop]

Scott this is a very interesting thread and you do some incredible work.
I have many of these Dorcy boards and have used them for many mods however I have always had to sacrifice some size due to the long shape of the board.Can you explain how you actually fit this board into this light?...Or maybe show a photo of the set up you have?
My QIII is very white and bright however I like having the option of switching out the circuit.Did you have to modify the head or bezel of the light any....or in other words can you swap out the circuits and replace the circuits back to the original form if you wanted to do so?
I do not have the skill to remove all the parts on the Dorcy board and make it a smaller package however I have seen some here that have done this.If I use this board it has to remain in its original form which is kind of long for smaller lights.
Great work on this and I appreciate any help you can give.

 

[MR Bulk]

[ QUOTE ]
milkyspit said:
Why thank you, Mr. Hotster! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Your blessing pretty much officially endorses my mod. Now all I need is certification from the great MR Bulk to seal the deal! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

[/ QUOTE ]


Sorry Scott, did not even see this thread as I've been buried under - well, you know what I've been buried under.

Hokay, consider yourself blessed, as your LH is on is way Monday - oops, you meant for this mod. Okay:

"KEWL! Ah lawkit! Ah lawkit ver' much, in fact!"

There... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif

 

[milkyspit]

Robocop, I don't have any photos at the moment, but the Q-III has a hollow aluminum ring inside that separates the Luxeon III star from the stock circuit board. To install the Dorcy board, I was able to JUST fit it leaning diagonally inside the aluminum ring. I could have cut off the two tabs at the bottom of the board, and the two tabs at the top, to make it smaller and fit even more easily. BTW, I did have to make a homemade positive contact board to sit underneath the aluminum ring so once the stock circuit was removed, there would still be a positive connection with the batteries. Hope this description helps, and doesn't just confuse you more! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

Also, MANY THANKS for your very kind words! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[LITEmania]

ring

 

[beam_me_up]

The only pimping I want done to my Q-III is to do whatever it takes to drive that baby to it's full power! Looks like R123's will be the easiest way for me as I have no knowledge whatsoever on how to put a higher booster circuit in there or whatever it needs to grab more juice /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I've been told that the stock Q-III runs the Luxeon at just under 2 watts.....so c'mon guys we need to squeeze that extra watt outta there somehow! Who's with me!?!?