New Raw XR-E

chocho

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Re: Raw XR-E vs Raw NS with Cree XR-E?

Ned-L said:
Thanks for your input. If I go for the Raw XR-E, I am still undecided between the 120 lumen and 80 lumen versions. My natural inclination is to go for the wow factor of the 120 lumen version figuring that most of the time I will use the low setting anyway. I am curious how often you find yourself using the 80 lumen setting versus the low setting? Do you find the low setting useful?

Ned,

Don't forget that Rob also has the "not-so-low" 90 minute low power option. You get 90 minutes of 50 or so lumens as the low power. You still have the 120 lumens of high power to light up a field if needed. In practice - you never need to use it unless you want to impress somebody.

More choices for you. :ohgeez:

-Chris
 

orb

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Geologist said:
Regarding the Raw NS - any plans for a DIY Cree/Seoul upgrade? Would that be a "drop in" solution? Price for DIY or non-DIY?

Thank ya!
No plan for a drop in upgrade. I did offer XR-E upgrades @ £30. No longer economical for the Alu Raw @ £34 for a whole new light minus PRCR2 & Nano.
Offer still stands for the Raw Ns XR-E Send it to me upgrade.
:thanks:
 

paxxus

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Re: Raw XR-E vs Raw NS with Cree XR-E?

KingSmono said:
I carry the Raw XR-E on my keychain. Here's the breakdown of PROs as I see it:

Raw XR-E:
Bigger reflector = more throw
The website says McR 16mm Aluminium Reflector for both the NS and the RAW.
huh2.gif

Bigger battery = longer runtimes
The website says 120 lumens and 25mins. run time on HIGH for both the NS and the RAW. Is there some magic potion inside that tiny 14250 cell or...
huh2.gif

Size = just fine for me to EDC (might be too large for some though)

Raw NS:
Smaller form = lighter? easier to EDC?
I believe that the NS has three trit locators instead of one. I'm struggling with understanding how one single trit can be of any use, three trits seems to be a minimum if you want to use them as an actual locator and not just decoration.
FWIW, I find the 80 lumen version of the Raw XR-E to be a perfect compromise between size, brightness, runtime, etc for my keychain light. Good luck deciding!

It is also unclear to me whether three trits on the NS are available and if so whether the price is £6 or £18. The website do say "Optional ICE BLUE Tritium Locators", so you would think that the £6 is for at least two, but why would the price then be the same for just one on the RAW...
 

cerenkov

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paxxus, I can give you my thoughts as to your questions, but they are unofficial, meaning Rob may wish to correct any errors I may make.

Yes, both the al RAW and the NS both use McR16 reflectors. I understand the the McR16 has to be shortened (machined down) in order to work in the shorter NS body. I don't know if that has any effect on throw, but it is extra time and work involved when using the Cree XR-E emitter in the NS. I believe the NEW aluminum RAW is slightly longer than the previous RAW to compensate for the longer and deeper McR16 reflector designed for the Cree. As of yet, I do not believe the NS has not been redesigned for the longer reflector, requiring the work to be done to shorten the reflector (extra labor cost).

I think the estimated 25 minute runtime on high (120 lumens) is assuming the more effecient Cree XR-E emitter in both RAW and NS. I have read reviews whereas some of the original RAWs with Luxeons only had about 12 minutes runtime on high to 50% brightness. Assuming the current draw on both RAW and NS is identical, the rating of the battery will determine runtimes for each. The protected PRCR2 battery in the RAW is a 14270, while the unprotected battery in the NS is a 14250. I think the extra 20mm in length of the PRCR2 is mostly taken up by the protection circuit, leaving close to the same volume left for battery chemistry. The 14250 unprotected battery is rated at 300 Mah. The older, unprotected 14270 RCR2 was rated at 350 Mah. Some of the earliest protected PRCR2s were rated at 300 Mah, the same as the unprotected 14250 used in the NS. I have not received my RAW yet, so I don't know if the new PRCR2 battery is rated at 300 Mah or 350 Mah. Maybe Rob can fill us in on the details. Remember though, the actual capacity can vary from battery to battery even with the same part numbers, much like the LED emitters themselves can vary in performance, so these are estimates.

The tritium locaters at priced @ each, 6 pounds sterling or whatever that symbol means (nearly $12 each). I would think one popular use for the tritium locator would be for finding the light when the light is kept on a nightstand at night. Simply set the RAW on end with the locator facing your bed when you go to bed at night. For camping or something, more tritium slots may be useful if you lay the light on its side. But remember, these lights can roll if layed on their side rather than stood up on end.

By the way, if you buy a light without tritium and later decide you need it, the locators can be purchased separately and easily installed with a drop of glue in the slots. Paying the additional postage later would have to be considered.
 

Tim W

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Leelanau Co. Michigan
cerenkov said:
...so I don't know if the new PRCR2 battery is rated at 300 Mah or 350 Mah...

The battery that came with my new XR-E Raw was a 300 Mah version and I can get 3 - 5 minute runs on high and then I see quite noticable dimming.

I also have a 350 Mah battery (AW) from lighthound and get 4 - 5 minute runs with it.

Haven't really timed how much time it gets on high if I use it for say a minute at a time.

The nano charger stops charging my cells at about 4.11 - 4.13 v and after a two hour run on LOW the battery still read 3.86v so the low runtimes are great (and MORE than usefull).

Hope the above helps.

Tim


BTW: in an earlier post I stated that although it doesn't throw as far as my M2 surefire (3.7v lamp and 17640 from AW) it is awfully dang close!!!!!!!!!

The more I use this little light, the more I like it.
 

paxxus

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Thanks for the info. I now understand how a single trit could be useful and how the smaller unprotected cell in the NS could hold the same energy as the larger protected cell used in the Al RAW. I still wish the Al RAW could be had with three trits though.

It would be nice if the 25min run time in HIGH (120 lumens) could be confirmed. If it's more like 12mins in reality I would consider the 80 lumens version instead, assuming that I'll cave in and place an order - those little light are damn cute :cool:

Edit: Removed misunderstanding about runtime.
 
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Tim W

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I was worried that the way I wrote that would be confusing.

With the 300 Mah batt. I get THREE 5 minute runs and with the 350 Mah batt. I get FOUR 5 minute runs. The battery (either one) will usually read about 3.2 -3.3 v after this, I know they can go a little lower but I don't really feel like pushing it. When doing these "tests" I would leave it on High for 5 min. and off until completely cooled to room temp and then repeat.

SO: a minimum of 15-20 minutes on high There is still plenty of juice in there to run on low for several more hours.


Have not let it go longer than that at one time(on HIGH,that is) as it gets quite warm, and I don't know how much heat is too much heat. I can feel NO heat build up on LOW.
 
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ebfx

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Jan 8, 2007
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Massachusetts
Hi Rob,

Received my new light last Friday and I'm very impressed!! :goodjob: This is my new favorite light by a long shot...

Shipping only took a week to the East Coast. When the package arrived I thought you had made a mistake and forgot to include the light... but it was hiding behind the charger! :lolsign:

Thanks again and excellent work.
 

pactchncn

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Jan 23, 2007
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Winter Park, FL
Recieved mine today, what an awesome little light. I was fondling it all day!!!

It already told me that it wants a "NS" brother and a "WEE" little sister.

Expect the wallet to open and dish out soon!!!
 

orb

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:wave: Kevinm if you need to ask a question here because your emails are not being received please ask here. :thanks:
 

moski

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Jan 24, 2007
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Stockholm - Sweden
Ohh, God!
Why cant i stand away from this forum?

I was just bored and i was kiling some time.....

Can u guys belive, that i thought a Maglite was
a decent flashlight 3 month ago?

I just ordered the LumaHunter MRV and just before
that i might have ordered the Fenix Digital P3D.

And now i´m finding myself sitting here and
ordering a ORB Raw!

I didn´t know it existed 10 min ago.
sold.gif


I would have prefer the Raw Titanium, but my wallet didn´t agree
rant.gif


What is it with flashlights?
Spending $$ at a nude bar i would understand.
Spending $$ at a holiday i would understand.

But undermining my next holiday,
because i need to invest in new flashlights?
sssh.gif


Hehe

paypal.gif
 

x923x

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:lolsign:
dude, i'm absolutely with you. A few years back I bought an Inova X5 online and thought, "I can't believe I just spent 30 bux on a silly flashlight...but I need one and it'll probably be the last light I ever buy." This was before I knew that a torch "culture" existed. Fast foward to about 3 months ago and I stumbled across EDCForums and then CPF and the light addiction began. The Orb series is by far my personal favorite, although I just own one at the moment, I'm anxiously waiting on the Orb "Wee" to be released!
 

cryhavok

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Nov 21, 2005
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Orlando, FL
What do we get for the 35 GBP necessary to upgrade an Orb Raw Ti? Completely new internals? I'm considering sending mine in for the XR-E upgrade, but i'd like to keep the luxeon setup as well. Could I just send you the Ti body shell and you will put in a new converterboard/heatsink/reflector? Also, does the price include return shipping? Thanks.

Edit: Also, could I send my own Cree XR-E emitter in for the swap?
 
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Jay R

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Mar 10, 2006
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Vikas Sontakke said:
Technically, how is the two-stage implemented on Raw? I am curious.

- Vikas

There is a small pin that sticks out of the circuit board about 1-2 mm. When the case is tightened, this touches the bottom half of the case first making Low via a resister. When tightened further, the pin retracts into it's little sprung tube and the case makes contact with the bottom of the board making high.
 

jlomein

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Oct 16, 2004
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Vancouver, Canada
How do others clean their Raw Ns? Mine gets covered in some sort of dull finished oxide when all my finger oils get on it. Just curious what anyone uses to make it look shiny again?
 
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