Nichia High CRI LED - 119V

[kerneldrop]

Thanks Kerneldrop! I didn't realize that Nichia publicized all their techinical specs, so I'll definitely look those up in the future. Also thank you for explaining the RXXXX nomenclature, if I get the haiku i believe I will send Tana an email. I have a few followup questions, I was under the impression that McGizmo was known for his mule setup, but is his reflector also a signature? I have a malkoff with a McGizmo reflector so I didn't realize it was special, and was also under the impression that everyone was moving to TIR for superior light redirection, is that not the case? Finally, wouldn't a 16650/ 2xRCR123 provide dual fuel potential also? Is the preference for AA/14500 mostly for form factor? Thanks again!

Every LED manufacturer has a data sheet thats specifies nearly every important characteristic....some datasheets don't give the die size, some do. The die size is important as it somewhat determines the throw capabilities. For example, the 119V is a 1.3mmx1.3mm die size...so one can expect more throw from it compared to others.

I'm not a mule type of hard-user. I like a directed beam. I have mules and I never carry them because I don't find myself ever needing just a wall of light.

I wouldn't say everyone or really anyone is moving to a TIR. Reflectors should always hold the top spot due to the blend of spill and throw.
I only use a TIR when I don't have enough room for a reflector in the lights I mod.

You can only run 2x123 in a driver that can handle that many volts.

I'm not familiar with McGizmo's setups....I view them more as a nice host that folks mod. They'll always be cool, but there's several other makers in USA that are more active in social media that garner folks' attention these days.

I'm not saying to spend more money and send to Tana....I'd be hard pressed to put out that kind of cash then spend more to have someone change it up. Just like @F89 , you may get it and prefer it.

 

[F89]

Depending on your budget, you could get a McGizmo with a stock driver then order a custom from a maker or parts and build your own and have some options.

I like mules, but like kernel, it wouldn't be my general purpose EDC choice.

Just for laughs here's some Surefire mods I made recently. Compact TIR goodness.
Osram in EB1 with driver swapped to programmable 2.2A (16650 only, don't put 2xCR123 in there).
Not pictured, but the tighter beam is my EDCL1-T with stock driver but swapped to Osram (it's the smaller hotspot in the photos).

Recently I looked at what's out there and I feel that McGizmo's are a relative bargain in their field (yes, they're expensive but by comparison).
Don hasn't put up prices in years and his lights are just something else.

It's easy enough to get crazy power if needed in stock or modded, as seen above.

Here's some EDCable wall of light.

I made the drop ins for these 6Ps. Quad copper shells with MCPCB solder bonded while LEDs reflowed running on H17Fx drivers. Nichia sw45k and Cree XPE2 (I made these a while ago and I could've used more recent LEDs than the Cree but I love these particular XPE2).
These things are absolute beasts, and get pretty hot on DD, particularly the Nichia but put out some serious light.

My EDC remains my Haiku AA 119V.

 

[intake_monk]

Every LED manufacturer has a data sheet thats specifies nearly every important characteristic....some datasheets don't give the die size, some do. The die size is important as it somewhat determines the throw capabilities. For example, the 119V is a 1.3mmx1.3mm die size...so one can expect more throw from it compared to others.

I'm not a mule type of hard-user. I like a directed beam. I have mules and I never carry them because I don't find myself ever needing just a wall of light.

I wouldn't say everyone or really anyone is moving to a TIR. Reflectors should always hold the top spot due to the blend of spill and throw.
I only use a TIR when I don't have enough room for a reflector in the lights I mod.

You can only run 2x123 in a driver that can handle that many volts.

I'm not familiar with McGizmo's setups....I view them more as a nice host that folks mod. They'll always be cool, but there's several other makers in USA that are more active in social media that garner folks' attention these days.

I'm not saying to spend more money and send to Tana....I'd be hard pressed to put out that kind of cash then spend more to have someone change it up. Just like @F89 , you may get it and prefer it.

Thank you for the info Kerneldrop. All my current lights are TIR/Reflector single LEDs, so I'm mostly just curious about the mule/ 3xled TIR wall of light setups. My understanding is that Don lets you opt out of buying the LED and you'd essentially just buy the host for $135ish cheaper. I'm tempted to do that for the newer LED, but you mentioning the 119V throws better is also right up my alley as I'm currently carrying mostly throwy lights, so I may refrain. Ah, the beauty of choice! I've also been looking at the prometheus delta for a while as a less expensive alternative to a triple LED setup than going custom McGizmo. I have some thinking to do, and as always appreciate your advice and experience.

 

[intake_monk]

Depending on your budget, you could get a McGizmo with a stock driver then order a custom from a maker or parts and build your own and have some options.

I like mules, but like kernel, it wouldn't be my general purpose EDC choice.

Just for laughs here's some Surefire mods I made recently. Compact TIR goodness.
Osram in EB1 with driver swapped to programmable 2.2A (16650 only, don't put 2xCR123 in there).
Not pictured, but the tighter beam is my EDCL1-T with stock driver but swapped to Osram (it's the smaller hotspot in the photos).

View attachment 51445View attachment 51447View attachment 51446View attachment 51448View attachment 51449View attachment 51450

Recently I looked at what's out there and I feel that McGizmo's are a relative bargain in their field (yes, they're expensive but by comparison).
Don hasn't put up prices in years and his lights are just something else.

It's easy enough to get crazy power if needed in stock or modded, as seen above.

Here's some EDCable wall of light.
View attachment 51451View attachment 51452
I made the drop ins for these 6Ps. Quad copper shells with MCPCB solder bonded while LEDs reflowed running on H17Fx drivers. Nichia sw45k and Cree XPE2 (I made these a while ago and I could've used more recent LEDs than the Cree but I love these particular XPE2).
These things are absolute beasts, and get pretty hot on DD, particularly the Nichia but put out some serious light.

My EDC remains my Haiku AA 119V.

Dude! These are awesome, do you build your own shells or source parts and just do assembly? That's so rad. Thank you for sharing!

 

[F89]

I don't have any special tools or am I particularly skilled, so I just buy or modify parts and experiment. It's part of the hobby for me.

The 119V isn't a super thrower or anything but at the modest drive currents I use it at its relatively throwy in this application. Not like the Osram examples I posted above.

I've derailed the thread a bit possibly, by getting carried away.

I have a 119V 123 body mule and love it, once again though, it's not a powerhouse.
I get excellent utility out of my McGizmo lights and can really appreciate their different forms and beams.
Choosing the right form, beam and power output are generally what you'd look for in choosing a light.
An EDC usually needs to have a versatile beam and utility, of course this could vary widely depending on tastes and (sometimes very specific) needs.

I'm actually modding my black coated Alpha soonish. I've modded it so many times (I do really like the old Ledil Boom/MCE combo though) and not ever really settled on it. Currently has a 519a with a TIR (actually looking to triple Osram it).
My original silver Alpha still has its Ledil Boom and LED, although I did swap the driver. For some reason the beam is just nicer than how my black one came (supposed to be the same 4500K MCE).
I was a bit shocked when I looked at the website recently. From memory my ready made was around 250 and the black coated mil version was about 325 with the black coated clip (first run).
Fantastic lights but they've priced me out of the game these days.

Out of all my lights, my McGizmo's are the most cherished. They may not be the most modern or powerful but in utility and for what I use lights for the majority of the time, they are the best.

I would encourage you, if you do go McGizmo, to buy a complete stock light.
You can always change it up in the future.

Hopefully if you do get one it'll grow on you and you'll 'get it'.
I have to admit that it took a little while before I developed full appreciation of my first McGizmo (Haiku 119V 3S 123).

I probably can't add too much more to my recommendations here so I'll leave it at the next few points.

My favourite McGizmo LEDs:

119V (of course)

XPG2 (yes, it's also old hat now but it's a very nice sample Don has and makes the best beam in a Haiku. Pretty decent CRI and nice tint).

Osram (most throw of course, nice white colour for a cool low(er) CRI light.

Light I'd suggest to you:

Firstly, Mahi. It throws a bit more than the Haiku.

Haiku (of course, it's my personal favourite light of all time).

Bodies:

Firstly 2x123 (I can't verify if it takes a 16650 though).

123 (can take CR123 of course and 16340).

AA (can take alkaline although not recommended, lithium primary and NiMH. I can verify that it won't take my protected 14500 batteries but I only use NiMH and lithium primary in mine anyway.

Drivers:

Firstly, Hive (Has a 1.2A max drive. Can take single CR123, 2xAA, single 4.2V lithium rechargeable- 14500, 16340, 16650 and so on).

AA (can take any AA battery but will clip excess voltage from a 14500. I only use ~1.5V in mine. Only had 300mA max).

No longer available, but the old 3S is my favourite for ~3V and up).

 

[desert.snake]

Having the choice today, I choose 119V. It's a really nice LED and it plays well in every McGizmo I've tried it in. That's my opinion/preference anyway.

I've actually had issues with matching LEDs and reflectors but perhaps I'm too picky? For example; I couldn't sit with the 219B in the current smooth OP Haiku reflector because the hotspot has that fried egg/monster eye thing going on. Some wouldn't notice but it bugged me enough.
Eventually I got my hands on a light with the original rougher OP reflector (the McR17XP initially had a more textured OP than current ones). I had suspected it would smooth out the beam enough and it did, it's excellent.
The 219b also worked great in the 17XR (also used with XML) reflector but is very floody.
Comparing the 219b and 119V in my Haikus, the 119V is quite a bit more throwy.

219b sw45k in the rougher OP. Awesome light quality (looks off centre but it's the photo, it's actually spot on because I'm anal 😀)
View attachment 51427

I had similar issues (fried egg/monster eye) with some 219b/c in HDS lights (two different OP varieties and a smooth) prior to them being a factory option. Originally the sw45k HDS was coined the F89 HG (holy grail) by Hogo.

I'm pretty sure there's a reason why Don still offers the 119V other than sitting on a heap of stock. It has a great tint and CRI along with other beam qualities.
Don't get me wrong, I'm well and truly a tint snob and CRI fiend so this old R9050 is hanging with tough competition.
At the drive currents I'm using and for my use and taste I'm happy (my EDC has a max current of 300mA).

So as you can see, I'm no stranger to playing with various LEDs (I've had quite a few varieties in my McGizmo's and lights in general). But yes, I'll be sticking with my 119V.

Below are some examples of my Sundrop AA which is currently sporting an E21a 5700K R9080.
View attachment 51428View attachment 51429

Below are some examples of a Haiku 2AA 3S 119V.
View attachment 51430View attachment 51431View attachment 51432View attachment 51433View attachment 51434

Yeah I love my 119V.

If you're after an after market light engine and higher drive currents, the 519a is definitely worth a look but depending on what you're after I reckon you might be surprised by the old 119V (at least at modest drive currents anyway).

As far as dedoming goes, it's super easy on a 519a. It has a glass cap over the die and the dome flicks off cleanly and easily (may not look it in my photo but it's actually super clean, I've checked with a magnifying glass).

Easy enough to look up specs and so on for LEDs, but regarding dedomes the general rule is you lose a bit of flux, gain a bit of lux and drop a fair bit of colour temp (e.g. my 4500K 519a is now around ~3400K I reckon).

Size reference for Haiku and Mahi.
L to R: 219b sw45k, 519a 4500K dedome, my EDC AA 119V.

View attachment 51435

I love fried eggs, but not in the rays of flashlights))

I discovered this by accident, my haiku with XM-L had a small annoying spot in the center of the beam, when I dropped it on concrete, the spot disappeared, and a week later the empty head of the Haiku arrived from Don and inserted a light engine with 119 (without V, old version) and got that same fried egg. During the assembly process, I discovered that its reflector can be moved forward/backward a little, but it moves tightly due to the silicone ring. To avoid damaging the reflector, I moved it slightly forward and backward, holding the back of it with needle-nose pliers. Don mentioned pliers here

Haiku Disassembly Question

How does one disassemble the Haiku head in the event I want to change an o-ring? Is it simply unscrewing the components from the casing, or is there more to it than that? Any special tools needed? Thanks ahead. Joe

www.candlepowerforums.com

The reflector travel is small, about 1-1.5 mm, but this is enough to perfectly adjust the beam without artifacts

In Aqua and Mahi, the reflector is threaded and can also be rotated a little to get a better pattern

But need to find a very clean room without dust or have clean compressed air or nitrogen on hand for cleaning, I have ruined too many reflectors when dust got on them and I tried to wipe them with a cotton swab, fingers or other things

In the case of a HDS, everything is more complicated; you either need to replace the LED, it very often kills the electronics in the head, or change the reflectors. Reflectors from different years and different batches are different and I have 2 flashlights that got rid of fried eggs in the beam after swapping their reflectors from a couple of old HDS

 

[F89]

I haven't modded an HDS in years, don't intend to in the future. Like you say, the electronics can easily be damaged.
Although I have managed to mod quite a few (sometimes more than once).

I've disassembled/reassembled my McGizmo's many times, particularly the Haiku, and the Mahi. I just use one of those bulb blower things (like for camera lenses and so on) to clear dust.
Isopropyl alcohol and a microfibre cloth work well to clean lenses.
Never touch a reflector surface with anything, as you've learnt the hard way.
I like having my Haiku reflectors seated against the MCPCB and small o-ring as intended (the Mahi reflector is also intended to seat against the MCPCB).
All my Haiku's (and Mahi) are tuned beautifully.

 

[kaichu dento]

I've disassembled/reassembled my McGizmo's many times, particularly the Haiku, and the Mahi.

I continually consider whether to try swapping the emitters in my LS20 for warmer options, and also whether or not there might be a possibility to get more of a Haiku-like beam from the center. However, I'll probably just keep using it as is, and there's definitely many things special about using Don's excellent designs.

 

[F89]

I agree, keep it stock.

Do you still have a Haiku?
Easy enough to play around with different light engines and LEDs.

 

[kaichu dento]

I agree, keep it stock.

Do you still have a Haiku?
Easy enough to play around with different light engines and LEDs.

No, but my friend that I gave on too still has it, and the other one that I sent to so many CPF'ers in the past got sold off a couple years ago. My only remaining McGizmo's are the LS20, and a totally neglected Mule which I've never even used.