Nitecore D10 problems

[JWP_EE]

If you were to cut the split ring in half and look at the cross section you would see a "C" shape. The ring actually straddles the PC board. If it is too tight it will rest against the edge of the board and touch the copper. That is why the suggestion to open up the ring with a screw driver.

With more testing I have found the time it takes for D10 to start flickering (it is more like a low light level strobe) depends on how bright I have it set. Faster when on bright. Heating maybe? It starts by its self just sitting there.

 

[jblackwood]

On a light with this price, quality and reputation, LUBE problems??? Not functioning properly with the head fully screwed in? Unacceptable.

Glad I bought a Fenix.

I have and love my Fenix L1T and LD20. Neither of them can ramp, switch from high to low with one hand, and signal (easily), though. Out of my 3 D10's (one Q5, 2 GDP), one GDP came without the lube issue, but once I cleaned off all lube and reapplied to those two, they were running better than the one that came with no issues, so I cleaned and relubed that one too! I signal regularly, and the PD is so much easier on my thumb that most clicky switches, including my L1T (my LD20 is pretty soft, but it's reverse, not forward so no signaling there). If I were selling these, I might clean out the products myself order to avoid all this belly-aching from people who don't even own the product. All it'd cost is the wasted man hours, but hey, it'd be worth it.
:shakehead

 

[litetube]

Lube issues on a $50 light Igor ? Thats nothing compared to $200 lights with 6 or 7 issues!!!!:devil:

The D10 isnt as user serviceable as the EX10, at least not for most. The LE can be removed but it takes patience and a delicate touch . Not as easy to get lube onto the "split ring" as the EX10 which has the split ring partially exposed. The D10 has a little different feel to it than the EX10 because of a cpl design differences between the two . The split ring should rotate fairly easily.
I dont think flickering should be happening period. if it does send it back for replacement. I have had 3 Ex10 and 2 D10 at one point or another and only a problem with one of the D10s, a Gd as it were . Though I like the length of the D10 , I settled on the Ex10 for ease of field stripping/cleaning and the ability to mod/customize in the future. Though I still debate getting another D10 , it is a great form factor for EDC with the clip

 

[gunslinger]

NiteCore Smart PD10 ?'s

I recently got a Smart PD10 and have a few questions......I noticed that ramping down is smooth and takes about 4 seconds but when ramping up it jumps almost immediately to full bright with maybe one or 2 noticeable steps in between in about 2 seconds. Is this normal? Also the body is Green and the head is black. I can deal with the color issue but I'm not sure about the ramping. I'm told that I can expect at least 1.5 weeks turn around for a new light and I hate to be down a light because it is my only good one. Just want to make sure that this is a legitimate return.

 

[Jarl]

Re: NiteCore Smart PD10 ?'s

Mine ramps smoothly both ways.

Possibly a silly question, but are you sure you're not tapping before you hold down to do the ramp? That'll shortcut you straight to high mode.

 

[gunslinger]

Re: NiteCore Smart PD10 ?'s

Yeah I'm positive. I guess it needs to go back...

 

[litetube]

Re: NiteCore Smart PD10 ?'s

First I have heard of blatant mismathc on the HA on these lights.
I know with mine , when it is on low and I ramp up towards hihg I am not quick enough to access any of the increments supposedly available , it ends up jumping a bit quickly to higher levels but definitely not right to the highest levels that quickly.

Sorry you have to deal with a return I know how it is and it does suck but dont compromise, the week and 1/2 will go by pretty quick and then you will be happy.

 

[mr_maurice]

...The LE can be removed but it takes patience and a delicate touch ...

Sorry if I'm being stupid, but what do you call the LE ?

 

[matrixshaman]

Re: NiteCore Smart PD10 ?'s

You might check the voltage on the battery or put in a new one and also clean the contacts in the light. I'm not real confident that will fix the problem but it might save you a return. It's definitely not the way it should work.

 

[Jarl]

Light engine. The pill holding the LED and driver board.

 

[BabyDoc]

Re: NiteCore Smart PD10 ?'s

You might check the voltage on the battery or put in a new one and also clean the contacts in the light. I'm not real confident that will fix the problem but it might save you a return. It's definitely not the way it should work.

If you won't be happy with the light because of the anodizing mismatch, just send it back, even though I suspect that cleaning of the contacts will fix your ramping complaint.

If you can live with the anodizing, and want to clean the contacts, be sure to use a small amount of contact cleaner (Deoxit Red works great), under the inside edge of the split ring. Gently press and turn the ring a couple of times to disperse the Deoxit to clean the contact surface on the circuit board. You may have to do this a couple of times.

 

[litetube]

Re: NiteCore Smart PD10 ?'s

That's true solid advice. Mine were quite dirty underneath the split ring and the deoxit got it out with care. The problem is with the D10 the LE is inside the head, it's tuff to get in there to clean.

 

[Igor Porto]

Lube issues on a $50 light Igor ? Thats nothing compared to $200 lights with 6 or 7 issues!!!!:devil:

Hahaha, that's a fact. When I saw the D10 for the first time, I was sold! I said to myself: this is the light I've ever wanted. But, it doesn't throw enough for my needs, and then I was sad :shrug:

 

[gunslinger]

Re: NiteCore Smart PD10 ?'s

I did spin the ring a bit and wipe them down. I tried a different battery but none of these things helped. I don't really care about the color as much because I'm using it at work and it is a tool. I sent it back and now the wait begins

 

[BabyDoc]

Re: NiteCore Smart PD10 ?'s

That's true solid advice. Mine were quite dirty underneath the split ring and the deoxit got it out with care. The problem is with the D10 the LE is inside the head, it's tuff to get in there to clean.

If you use Deoxit Red with the spray can, it comes with a little small flexible tube that you can direct at the inside of the split ring. You just have to be extremely careful not to spray in too much. If I didn't have the spray deoxit, I would probably use a syringe and a needle to direct the deoxit into the right place.

I guess this is academic since the OP sent his back.