Olight S1 Mini Baton (Post #1 is now updated as review)

[Skaaphaas]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Quick impressions on the S1 Mini. If you care about beam quality, skip the HCRI. The frosted TIR hasn't helped the tint shift. It's fine in the middle of the hotspot but turns very ugly right around it. The normal cool white version is alright.

Eff

 

[jon_slider]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Quick impressions on the S1 Mini. If you care about beam quality, skip the HCRI. The frosted TIR hasn't helped the tint shift. It's fine in the middle of the hotspot but turns very ugly right around it. The normal cool white version is alright.

Thank You!
that suggests to me that the optic is not designed for XP LEDs its probably the same optic they use on the XM-L2 models, just frosted.

oLight's strategy of simply Frosting the XM-L2 optic, does not change the fact that the optic is designed for a wider LED, and creates an uneven colimation when using the smaller XP LED.

Now I can just click Buy it Now on a Copper SMini.. without thinking Im missing out on the High CRI option.. better to install a High CRI XM-L2 LED..

since the optic is not compatible with XP, it is not compatible with Nichia..

Since I do not use disposable batteries, it is too bad the oLight Minis are CR123 compatible and have no built in over discharge protection. That means it is unsuitable for unprotected LiIon..

I do like the 16340 with built in protection and built in USB charge port. That way if I gift a Mini to a non flashoholic, they don't need to be invested in a LiIon charger, nor a Voltmeter.

Question
Does the 16340 w USB port fit a Copper SMini?

fwiw, I found the Copper SMini for $39 with code blacknovember at illumn.com

 

[bartonjd]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

I was looking at the Klaurus website and noticed that they claim 1h12m at 600lm. How long will the S1 mini baton maintain 600 Lumen output?

 

[maukka]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

I was looking at the Klaurus website and noticed that they claim 1h12m at 600lm. How long will the S1 mini baton maintain 600 Lumen output?

The S1 Mini gradually decreases in output during the first three minutes ending up at about 300 lm. Unlike Olight Klarus doesn't specify when the light steps down. It won't do continuous 600 lumens for an hour.

 

[bartonjd]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

That seems deceptive but that's nothing new.

So is there any difference in brightness between this light and the SMini once the step-down has taken place? If not then I guess the only reason to buy this would be the magnetic tail cap it would seem. (If you already own an SMini)

 

[Getflashed]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Moving away from tints a bit, has anyone noticed (or better yet verified) the published weights? S1 (aluminum) 30g. S1 mini (also aluminum) 43g. So it's smaller but 50% heavier? For comparison Smini Titanium is 30g, and in Stainless 49g. Does the new S1 Mini weight sound wrong or is it due to the larger stainless clip and bezel?

There's a review on YouTube https://youtu.be/l6mhvAsB6wc which verifies the weight with/ without the battery. I think the extra weight might be the magnetic tail cap. I'm getting one, ticks all the boxes for me.

 

[bltkmt]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

I ordered one - hi CRI. The fact that the battery is directly chargeable via USB cable makes this a perfect travel light for me.

 

[jon_slider]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

compare and contrast.. (corrections for accuracy invited)

 

[Boris74]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

I was looking at the Klaurus website and noticed that they claim 1h12m at 600lm. How long will the S1 mini baton maintain 600 Lumen output?

Probably the same amount of time. The klaurus is going to step down at some point, it isn't running 600 an hour plus straight. The S1R stays at 900 lumens for 90 seconds before it gets too hot and ramps down to high gradually. My S Mini Ti is the same but it only does turbo at 550. The high CRI in the beer can Mini isn't neutral like the exotic metal ones. I like the NW mine has. So I guess the better tint is the trade off to not having a magnetic cap. If I did not have the S1R and H1R for magnetic Work I would be ordering one for sure. The regular rcr123 no USB port olight battery runs the longest of the rechargeable cells I use in all three of mine. Primaries start to fade out to quick for my liking. I prefer brighter longer with slightly shorter run time. I hate lights that have half the battery life left but aren't full brightness.

they are going to sell a whole lot of these things. Perfect sized lights with useable brightness and wide beams of light in the perfect size with an easy UI and long run times. It's going to depocket many lights to become edc items for many to come here in the near future.

 

[jon_slider]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

battery is directly chargeable via USB

congrats on clicking buy it now
Let us know how you like it.

I also like the USB chargeable protected 16340 LiIon feature, so I don't need to carry, or gift, a charger.
And I like that the new SMini and Klarus Mi1c have a low battery indicator, so I don't need to carry, or gift a Voltmeter either.

According to the website, the Klarus also has a battery level indicator, similar to Zebralight, so I don't have to wait for the Low Voltage warning.. when in doubt, recharge, but with the battery level indicator, less doubt, less frequent opening the light to recharge..

fwiw, the USB chargeable battery can be purchased separately, to use in other lights. Fenix and Klarus offer the USB chargeable batteries too.

 

[Enderman]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Lol, I am not sure where you got that information from. Actually most lights that use optics do in fact have a lens in front of them to protect the optic and increase water resistance. A short list of examples of companies that use a glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses over their optics are: Surefire, Malkoff, Oveready, Streamlight, Inova, Armytek, Emisar, Manker, Convoy, etc. Not to mention most custom makers lights as well.

"optics" refers to any optical component including TIR, aspheric lenses, or reflectors.
I made it pretty clear in my post that I was NOT talking about reflectors, I was only talking about TIRs and aspherics.
Go take a look for yourself, pretty much nobody puts a glass window in front of a TIR or aspheric, because it is useless and just makes it more delicate.
Reflector flashlights need a front lens because otherwise the reflector surface and LED are exposed.

 

[jon_slider]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

A short list of examples of companies that use a glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses over their optics are: Surefire, Malkoff, Oveready, Streamlight, Inova, Armytek, Emisar, Manker, Convoy, etc.

I checked the Oveready (expensive) and Emisar (cheap), and yes the TIR optics DO have a Glass lens over the TIR. I have not checked the others.

I was only talking about TIRs and aspherics.

Tachead does seem to know something you and I might not have been aware of. It was news to me too, since the only TIR lights I have are a Mecarmy PT-16 and PT-18, which have just a TIR with no Glass lens over it, like the SMini.

You are both right . A Plastic TIR scratches more easily than a Glass Lens. And Olight uses a TIR with NoGlass Lens.

Note the Klarus has a Glass Lens, but afaict from the pics, it does not use a TIR under it. That makes the Klarus a better choice if a mod to Nichia is contemplated.

I will be curious to see beam comparisons between the TIR SMini beam and the Glass w reflector on the Klarus.

The compatibility w Nichia, and the Battery Level Meter of the Klarus, plus the to me nicer clip of the Klarus, are keeping me from clicking Buy it now on a Copper SMini.. (I know what I would tell someone else, buy both! )

 

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

"optics" refers to any optical component including TIR, aspheric lenses, or reflectors.
I made it pretty clear in my post that I was NOT talking about reflectors, I was only talking about TIRs and aspherics.
Go take a look for yourself, pretty much nobody puts a glass window in front of a TIR or aspheric, because it is useless and just makes it more delicate.
Reflector flashlights need a front lens because otherwise the reflector surface and LED are exposed.

Come in man, I was clearly talking about acrylic optics not reflectors.

All of the manufacturers I listed use glass lenses in front of their acrylic TIR's and/or aspherical lenses. In fact, there are far more lights that do use glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses to protect their acrylic optics then ones that don't in my experience. I can list dozens of models that do if you would like. Or, you can just go to the manufacturers sites that I listed and see for yourself(you probably should have done this before trying to push your ill informed opinion as fact). I am sorry if I sound harsh but, I think I was pretty clear in my last post.

 

[Boris74]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Come in man, I was clearly talking about acrylic optics not reflectors. Now you are just grasping at straws.

All of the manufacturers I listed use glass lenses in front of their acrylic TIR's and/or aspherical lenses(is that clear enough for you). In fact, there are far more lights that do use glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses to protect their acrylic optics then ones that don't in my experience. I can list dozens of models that do if you would like. Or, you can just go to the manufacturers sites that I listed and see for yourself(you probably should have done this before trying to push your ill informed opinion as fact). I am sorry if I sound harsh but, I think I was pretty clear in my last post.

There is grasping at both ends. You mentioned earlier that the acrylic risks being melted by flashlight LEDs. No it doesn't. The battery will blow up at the heat it will take to melt it. It won't even make it half way to its melting point of [FONT=&quot]320 °F before the battery blows up. If you traumatize a TIR lense enough to see the damage in the beam, then there isn't a coated glass lens out there that will not be broken. TIR is far more durable, and no, scratches do not effect beam quality, they won't melt, they will not break when a coated glass one will.......

Pros and cons on both sides, but you're embellishing on the cons to TIR and making a few up while you're at it. TIR is the right choice for the Baton series lights, but I wouldn't want it on my HL-X, and I don't want a reflector and lense on my Batons. [/FONT]

 

[Enderman]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Come in man, I was clearly talking about acrylic optics not reflectors.

All of the manufacturers I listed use glass lenses in front of their acrylic TIR's and/or aspherical lenses. In fact, there are far more lights that do use glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses to protect their acrylic optics then ones that don't in my experience. I can list dozens of models that do if you would like. Or, you can just go to the manufacturers sites that I listed and see for yourself(you probably should have done this before trying to push your ill informed opinion as fact). I am sorry if I sound harsh but, I think I was pretty clear in my last post.

What's funny is that half the brands you quoted don't even make TIR flashlights, and the other half don't use any additional glass lens in front of the TIR.

 

[bykfixer]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Guys, guys, guys.... high CRI is changed from light bulbs. Using light bulb charts and graphs to judge LED's is like using scissors to cut wires. Wrong tool for the job.

Looking at the bottom photo in post 50 is a great way to tell what's really happening.
The new Cree is getting really good at portraying all those other R's. Rating something high CRI because it has a good R9 is leaving out a ton of information. R13 for example. Fleshtone. Very important color to get correct as the eyeball uses that to judge other things. R3, R7, R14.... a nice flat curve is way better than some spike in the R9 that although appears more pleasing to the eye, lends a rosey tint to everything.

To those used to cool white the spiked R9 looks ridiculously over red. To those who are used to a higher R9 the cool white looks ridiculous. So ones habits also play a role along with likes or dislikes. If you're not used to a 12 volt incan everything takes on a brown tint. There is no right or wrong. It's preference vs preference.

Ok, back to topic. Sounds like Olight has a winner here that should appeal to a lot of people.

As a photographer my photos lit by new Cree stuff are far more acurate than those lit by high rated CRI beams via boosted R9 or 12 volt incan for that matter. Mucho white balance issues result.

 

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

What's funny is that half the brands you quoted don't even make TIR flashlights, and the other half don't use any additional glass lens in front of the TIR.

Every brand I listed makes at least one model with an acrylic optic(TIR or Aspheric). And, every one uses a glass, sapphire, or UCLp lens in front of said optic. Some even use protective lenses on all of their models with acrylic optics.

Here is a list of at least one model from every company I listed(you can do some research if you want to check out other models that also do)...

Surefire - E1D LED Defender
Malkoff - MDM4 M91T
Oveready - Boss
Streamlight - TLR -1 HL
Inova - T3 Tiros
Armytek - Prime Pro
Emisar - D4
Manker - E14
Convoy S2 Triple

 

[Zak]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

With 219Cs, R9 tends to be higher in cooler color temperatures. A high R9 doesn't require an abnormally rosy tint.

 

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

There is grasping at both ends. You mentioned earlier that the acrylic risks being melted by flashlight LEDs. No it doesn't. The battery will blow up at the heat it will take to melt it. It won't even make it half way to its melting point of 320 °F before the battery blows up. If you traumatize a TIR lense enough to see the damage in the beam, then there isn't a coated glass lens out there that will not be broken. TIR is far more durable, and no, scratches do not effect beam quality, they won't melt, they will not break when a coated glass one will.......

Pros and cons on both sides, but you're embellishing on the cons to TIR and making a few up while you're at it. TIR is the right choice for the Baton series lights, but I wouldn't want it on my HL-X, and I don't want a reflector and lense on my Batons.

No where did I say there are risks of an acrylic optic being melted by a flashlights LED. That is ridiculous. No company would uses an acrylic optic if it would melt due to the emitter.

Minor scratching might not be easily seen in a beam but, deep gouging, melted indentations, or the fogginess caused by certain chemicals certainly will. And, as I said, I like to keep my stuff in good shape and have found over the years a coated glass or sapphire lens holds up much better over the long term then bare acrylic for my uses.

I am just stating the facts, the downsides, to using bare acrylic optics in a flashlight. It is up to the user/customer(you and I) to decide if they are ok with them or not. Everyone has their own preferences and we all use our lights in different applications so, what not be an issue for some might be to others. Myself, I prefer a glass or sapphire lens on a light that uses and acrylic optic. If you don't that's ok too:thumbsup:.

 

[Boris74]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Lol, I am not sure where you got that information from. Actually most lights that use optics do in fact have a lens in front of them to protect the optic and increase water resistance. A short list of examples of companies that use a glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses over their optics are: Surefire, Malkoff, Oveready, Streamlight, Inova, Armytek, Emisar, Manker, Convoy, etc. Not to mention most custom makers lights as well.

The losses from a good quality AR coated lens are less then 1%. Even a low quality coated lens is generally less then 3%.

It should be noted that every scratch on an optic lowers its efficiency and increases transmission losses. Considering the average acrylic optic already has losses of more then 15% it is wise to protect it to prevent further performance losses.

Acrylic optics scratch very easily in my experience and it is not very hard at all to put a deep scratch in one that will show in the beam(even if it is only easily seen on the white wall). It should also be noted the acrylic can be damaged and/or discoloured by many chemicals including most insect repellents and gasoline. A quality scratch resistant coated glass or sapphire lens on the other hand can be very scratch resistant and if well engineered and properly protected by a bezel is very shock and shatter resistant as well. It is also impervious to most chemicals. Personally, I would much rather have a flashlight with its optic protected by a quality scratch and AR coated glass lens.









Even if the performance losses that the scratches, melting, and discoloration cause on an acrylic lens











are not easily noticeable in normal use, I like to keep my things in good condition and it's nice not to have to worry about it scratching and/or being damaged so easily. Plus, replacement lenses are cheap and easy to come by in almost any size unlike some optics.

No where did I say there are risks of an acrylic optic being melted by a flashlights LED. That is ridiculous. No company would uses an acrylic optic if it would melt due to the emitter.

Minor scratching might not be easily seen in a beam but, deep gouging, melted indentations, or the fogginess caused by certain chemicals certainly will. And, as I said, I like to keep my stuff in good shape and have found over the years a coated glass or sapphire lens holds up much better over the long term then bare acrylic for my uses.

I am just stating the facts, the downsides, to using bare acrylic optics in a flashlight. It is up to the user/customer(you and I) to decide if they are ok with them or not. Everyone has their own preferences and we all use our lights in different applications so, what not be an issue for some might be to others. Myself, I prefer a glass or sapphire lens on a light that uses and acrylic optic. If you don't that's ok too:thumbsup:.

Even if the performance losses that the scratches, melting, and discoloration cause on an acrylic lens

Yeah you did.

So to be clear, addressing what you have said, I will tell you there is no performance loss from scratches. There is no melting. There is no discoloration. I have a well scratched up TIR from 12 years ago and your statement I quoted has never been my personal experience. So as you can see I'm not making up what you said. I'm not making up what I said. I'm saying none of that happens in real life. I don't care where you read it at or heard about it. All I'm doing is saying for information purposes to everyone else what you say, hasn't been my experience, and I got more than a decades TIR light use to back it up. I really am sorry if that contradicts your thoughts or theories on the subject.