Olight S1 Mini Baton (Post #1 is now updated as review)

[jon_slider]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

images sourced from maukka
on the right is the Neutral white Low CRI led Boris likes for raccoons, it has slightly more yellow an is warmer CCT, than the Copper SMini. The Main difference is the Color Temperature, not the CRI

Low CRI NW is not in the same league as a Neutral White Nichia, not in R9, not in R13, nor any other subset of CRI factors. Note this is essentially identical Color Temperature as the NW TiSmini above right

 

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Yeah you did.

So to be clear, addressing what you have said, I will tell you there is no performance loss from scratches. There is no melting. There is no discoloration. I have a well scratched up TIR from 12 years ago and your statement I quoted has never been my personal experience. So as you can see I'm not making up what you said. I'm not making up what I said. I'm saying none of that happens in real life. I don't care where you read it at or heard about it. All I'm doing is saying for information purposes to everyone else what you say, hasn't been my experience, and I got more than a decades TIR light use to back it up. I really am sorry if that contradicts your thoughts or theories on the subject.

You seem to have a problem with reading comprehension sir. I did not say anything about the LED melting the acrylic optic, you just pulled that out of somewhere. I was referring to other things melting it like chemicals(I gave bug repellents as an example but, several other chemicals can melt acrylic too) and other outside heat sources. Certain chemicals will also discolour acrylic and/or turn it foggy. I once badly melted an acrylic lens on a motorcycle exhaust when I was working on it. Had it have had a glass or sapphire lens it would have been fine. I also put a deep gouge in an acrylic lens on a headlamp while rock climbing and it was quite visible in the beam after.

You have to understand Boris, that your experiences in life can be different then others. I thought that was fairly common knowledge but apparently not:shakehead.

 

[WDR65]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

You seem to have a problem with reading comprehension sir. I did not say anything about the LED melting the acrylic optic, you just pulled that out of somewhere. I was referring to other things melting it like chemicals(I gave bug repellents as an example but, several other chemicals can melt acrylic too) and other outside heat sources. Certain chemicals will also discolour acrylic and/or turn it foggy. I once badly melted an acrylic lens on a motorcycle exhaust when I was working on it. Had it have had a glass or sapphire lens it would have been fine. I also put a deep gouge in an acrylic lens on a headlamp while rock climbing and it was quite visible in the beam after.

You have to understand Boris, that your experiences in life can be different then others. I thought that was fairly common knowledge but apparently not:shakehead.

Perhaps a new thread discussing the merits and drawbacks to tir optics and glass lenses is in order.

 

[archimedes]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Feel free to debate the facts and issues, but please refrain from attacking each other personally here.

We'd like to keep CPF a friendly and pleasant forum. It's ok to agree to disagree, but all of you please make your point(s) without insulting others.

Thanks.

And I do think it might be time to move on from this particular point of contention

 

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Perhaps a new thread discussing the merits and drawbacks to tir optics and glass lenses is in order.

I think it has been discussed plenty enough now lol. Your right, let's get back on topic. So, how about that new S1 mini[emoji3].

 

[Boris74]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

You seem to have a problem with reading comprehension sir. I did not say anything about the LED melting the acrylic optic, you just pulled that out of somewhere. I was referring to other things melting it like chemicals(I gave bug repellents as an example but, several other chemicals can melt acrylic too) and other outside heat sources. Certain chemicals will also discolour acrylic and/or turn it foggy. I once badly melted an acrylic lens on a motorcycle exhaust when I was working on it. Had it have had a glass or sapphire lens it would have been fine. I also put a deep gouge in an acrylic lens on a headlamp while rock climbing and it was quite visible in the beam after.

You have to understand Boris, that your experiences in life can be different then others. I thought that was fairly common knowledge but apparently not:shakehead.

You think you're slick. If that's what you meant you'd of said it the first time. Hate to break it to ya, but my 12 year old TIR light has been around plenty of bug repellents. My lights don't have a problem with bugs latching on to them so I don't put bug spray on any of my lights. Beyond that, not all bug spray melts plastic. Picaridin is much more safe and keeps ticks off better too. It won't melt your TIR. As to external sources of heat. Anything hot enough to melt a TIR lense will discolor a coated glass lens, and the battery would explode from high temp exposure. Any hit hard enough on a TIR lense to gouged it to the points of a distorted beam will break a glass lense. I'm speaking from past experiences. I'll take damaged TIR over broken glass, it has better reliability and durability, your lucky you had a TIR lense light in your example of supposed inferiority.

This is is on topic since more than a few think TIR in this application is inferior to other options. No need to try and avoid discussion why theories don't stack up to real world.

Honestly, it's got to the point where I see your statements more like questions. Then you don't like the answer. Fine by me, I know others get it. Especially them lurkers who might not have the slightest clue and actually believe some ofmthe stuff being said. Literally none of your statements come close to actual experience with TIR.

 

[bykfixer]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

images sourced from maukka
on the right is the Neutral white Low CRI led Boris likes for raccoons, it has slightly more yellow an is warmer CCT, than the Copper SMini. The Main difference is the Color Temperature, not the CRI

Low CRI NW is not in the same league as a Neutral White Nichia, not in R9, not in R13, nor any other subset of CRI factors. Note this is essentially identical Color Temperature as the NW TiSmini above right

Even the area surrounding the graphs takes on a rosey tint

 

[jon_slider]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Even the area surrounding the graphs takes on a rosey tint

LOL!
My mind is made up, don't confuse me with the facts.

I appreciate your insights and observations... Im on the lookout for more R13 flesh tones.
Some people accustomed to Low CRI "see no reason" to change.
That would be like insulting their investment in Low CRI relationships.

Cant wait to see the charts and graphs of the new High CRI SMini.
Will it be Rosey.. or "Creen"?

 

[maukka]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Cant wait to see the charts and graphs of the new High CRI SMini.
Will it be Rosey.. or "Creen"?

I already spoiled the results on reddit. It's not pretty.

 

[jon_slider]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

thanks!
so Creen and Creener
how are the R13 flesh tones?;-)

 

[maukka]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

CRI values don't matter when the light is so far from the BBL.

 

[Skaaphaas]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Bugger. I hate green. I will have to cancel my order.

 

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Bugger. I hate green. I will have to cancel my order.

Keep in mind we don't know how tight of a bin Olight is using for this model so there will likely be some variation from sample to sample(possibly a lot). But, the XP-G3 has a reputation for being green so, it might still be wise to cancel your order if you want to be safe as the chances of getting one on or below the BBL don't look good.

 

[jon_slider]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

It always amazes me how finicky people can be about lights.
...
I hate green. I will have to cancel my order.

feeling finicky?

maybe change your order to one of the Low CRI XM-L2 versions?
The CU SMini can be had for just $39

it appears to me that the High CRI model uses the TIR for the XM-L2, and it does not work with XP-G3, even frosted

 

[rookiedaddy]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

I already spoiled the results on reddit. It's not pretty.

LOL! Thanks for confirming... although I changed my pre-order to non HCRI version ~2 weeks ago after seeing one of the front picture of a model holding the HCRI version showing a great ring of greenish from the beam, I was still holding on to the hope giving it the benefit of doubts... :laughing:

 

[Skaaphaas]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

feeling finicky?

maybe change your order to one of the Low CRI XM-L2 versions?
The CU SMini can be had for just $39

it appears to me that the High CRI model uses the TIR for the XM-L2, and it does not work with XP-G3, even frosted

Guilty!

I have an S1 Baton, so the low-cri version will be superfluous.

 

[Olightworld]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

I appreciate the input! I'll be working on here to make sure our customers' feedback is heard. We are always working to produce the best lights we can!

 

[Boris74]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

I appreciate the input! I'll be working on here to make sure our customers' feedback is heard. We are always working to produce the best lights we can!

I should get a bird dog fee. Almost everyone who sees or uses my S1R or SMini Ti end up ordering one. Same with the i3E on my keychain. Raw brass i3S is one of my favorites. Perfect in between cw and nw tint. Looks good patinaed up too.

 

[rookiedaddy]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Just received the 2 review units today and I again changed my mind and reverted to buying myself a HCRI version... while I was there... just can't passed up a S Mini promotion that my local distributor is running and snapped a Polished Ti version too. :laughing:

Gonna update post #1 with a review instead of creating a new thread... stay tuned folks...

edit: oh, and they gave me this... an improved version of Olight Pen Light...

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

Olight S1 Mini Baton

Lol, I am not sure where you got that information from. Actually most lights that use optics do in fact have a lens in front of them to protect the optic and increase water resistance. A short list of examples of companies that use a glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses over their optics are: Surefire, Malkoff, Oveready, Streamlight, Inova, Armytek, Emisar, Manker, Convoy, etc. Not to mention most custom makers lights as well.

The losses from a good quality AR coated lens are less then 1%. Even a low quality coated lens is generally less then 3%.

It should be noted that every scratch on an optic lowers its efficiency and increases transmission losses. Considering the average acrylic optic already has losses of more then 15% it is wise to protect it to prevent further performance losses.

Acrylic optics scratch very easily in my experience and it is not very hard at all to put a deep scratch in one that will show in the beam(even if it is only easily seen on the white wall). It should also be noted the acrylic can be damaged and/or discoloured by many chemicals including most insect repellents and gasoline. A quality scratch resistant coated glass or sapphire lens on the other hand can be very scratch resistant and if well engineered and properly protected by a bezel is very shock and shatter resistant as well. It is also impervious to most chemicals.

Personally, I would much rather have a flashlight with its optic protected by a quality scratch and AR coated glass lens. Even if the performance losses that the scratches, melting, and discoloration cause on an acrylic lens are not easily noticeable in normal use, I like to keep my things in good condition and it's nice not to have to worry about it scratching and/or being damaged so easily. Plus, replacement lenses are cheap and easy to come by in almost any size unlike some optics.

LOL I don't think you read the original poster's words very carefully. What he said is accurate. Most of the companies you are listing do use separate lenses over optical systems such as reflectors, but not TIR optics, because the TIR optic is a lens. It seals against o-rings exactly the same way that the lens on a reflector does. Really I think Malkoff and OVEREADY might be the only ones with a lens over the TIR optic. But I believe that is largely due to the fact that those are modular "drop in" style lights. Particularly the OVEREADY, which is designed to have the optic and lens be user modifiable. Throw, medium, or flood optic, clear or frosted lens...