Olight S10-L2 (S10 2013, XM-L2, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO+

[Capolini]

Mine came with Edisonbright's I imagine some sort of rebranded primaries, but I'm using Nitecore rcr123's (NL166) in it... they both work fine..

Same here!!!! I will be using the Edisonbrights for my Nitecore SENS when my Titanium Innovation CR123 supply run out.

I think we bought it from the same place and dealer!

 

[A.O.]

Same here!!!! I will be using the Edisonbrights for my Nitecore SENS when my Titanium Innovation CR123 supply run out.

I think we bought it from the same place and dealer!

I got mine for my birthday, but it came from amazon.. they list it with the Edisonbrights..

As I get enough RCR123's I'm relegating the rest of my primary lithiums to my SHTF stash..

 

[spark001uk]

Ok I think it's going to have to be the Nitecores then. Not cheap here in UK though, £8.49 each! ($13.82). That's on ebay, haven't checked online stores yet.

Talking of ebay, just saw some newer versions of the ultrafire 123s. Wow, they're now a whopping 1200mAh!! As if.

 

[A.O.]

Ok I think it's going to have to be the Nitecores then. Not cheap here in UK though, £8.49 each! ($13.82). That's on ebay, haven't checked online stores yet.

Talking of ebay, just saw some newer versions of the ultrafire 123s. Wow, they're now a whopping 1200mAh!! As if.

Here is where I got mine... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitecore-RC...US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item4abd13266b

$14.95 a pair... not sure on shipping to the UK though..

 

[spark001uk]

How about these? http://www.flashaholics.co.uk/batteries/aw-rcr123a.html

 

[A.O.]

How about these? http://www.flashaholics.co.uk/batteries/aw-rcr123a.html

BINGO!!! We have a winner!

 

[spark001uk]

A question on these AW - They do a 750mAh protected cell (black wrapper with a silver label and red stripe), or they do a safe chemistry LiMn 550mAh IMR (red wrapper) for the same price. Which would I be better off getting?

 

[Capolini]

A question on these AW - They do a 750mAh protected cell (black wrapper with a silver label and red stripe), or they do a safe chemistry LiMn 550mAh IMR (red wrapper) for the same price. Which would I be better off getting?

If I were choosing one of those, I would go with the 750mAh protected cell. The same one SB used for his test.

 

[spark001uk]

The Ultrafire charger is fine, but Ultrafire-brand rechargeable cells should be avoided - they typically don't meet stated specs, and often do not hold their charge.

I use AW RCRs exclusively, but other "name" brands (including known light manufacturers) should be fine. Check out the electronics/battery forum here for reviews and discussions on this topic.

I just did a quick set of measurements at work discharging one of the Ultrafires with a 10R load (about 370mA) and knocked a chart up. Speaks for itself I guess! I make that about half hr @370mA so that equates to about 185mAh. That's shocking!!

 

[A.O.]

Well apparently its not "shocking" enough!!

 

[Capolini]

Does anyone know the approximate lumen output after the "Defined Step down" when It levels off to the "lower high"?

SB?

Thanks

 

[spark001uk]

Does anyone know the approximate lumen output after the "Defined Step down" when It levels off to the "lower high"?

SB?

Thanks

Looking at the graphs, assuming "relative output" is a linear value, I would say about 80% on a primary which would be about 320 ish lumen, and about 75% for rcr, which taking into account the slightly extra power from the cell would probably be about the same? Just a guess though, as I say assuming the value is linear.

On another note, I'm on my AW blacks now, (thanks to Flashaholics for a speedy service), and they're holding up way better than the ultrafire-risk !

 

[selfbuilt]

Does anyone know the approximate lumen output after the "Defined Step down" when It levels off to the "lower high"?

Looking at the graphs, assuming "relative output" is a linear value, I would say about 80% on a primary which would be about 320 ish lumen,

It's not linear, but rather a power relationship (as described in the links in the methods section of the review). In any case, your estimate is pretty good - it is indeed around 320 lumens on my estimated scale.

 

[Capolini]

It's not linear, but rather a power relationship (as described in the links in the methods section of the review). In any case, your estimate is pretty good - it is indeed around 320 lumens on my estimated sale.

Thanks SB "Estimated sale"???!!! I am busting your shoes! I know you meant "scale"!! Like I never made a mistake!!

I have been on an EDC binge lately. I just ordered the S10's older brother, the S20,,,,,,,,,,,,Black Friday/Cyber Monday Flashaholic Mania!!

 

[Flying Turtle]

Just received my Black Friday S10 and have been putting it through it's paces. All seems good, though the moonlight seems a bit brighter than 0.5, and is fairly green. On higher levels the tint is better. Very pleased with the UI and side switch operation. One curious difference in mine is that the reflector is quite smooth. I see no orange peel at all. It's like the pic in Nordicflash's review from a while back. All other reviews I've seen show a light orange peel reflector. I'm not sure it makes much difference, as the beam looks good. I wonder if it's been unofficially changed, since, as usual, I'm late in the S10 game.

Now I must wrap it back up and wait for Christmas morning to play with it again.

Geoff

 

[AbbyY]

... One curious difference in mine is that the reflector is quite smooth. I see no orange peel at all. It's like the pic in Nordicflash's review from a while back. All other reviews I've seen show a light orange peel reflector. I'm not sure it makes much difference, as the beam looks good. I wonder if it's been unofficially changed, since, as usual, I'm late in the S10 game...

You're right Geoff. I bought yesterday S10 and S20 and both of them had SMO reflector. As you said, it's about an unannounced switch from OP to SMO reflector because even my dealer didn't know that. When I told him about the difference he brought from warehouse two older S10 L2 and S20 L2 (an older batch I mean) and both of them had OP. Although I could change the two Olight for OP version, I did not because I am confortable with SMO. IMO, OP is good for more lumens (less losses) but SMO throws better (we compared both of them and SMO was better focused than OP).

 

[NorthernStar]

You're right Geoff. I bought yesterday S10 and S20 and both of them had SMO reflector. As you said, it's about an unannounced switch from OP to SMO reflector because even my dealer didn't know that. When I told him about the difference he brought from warehouse two older S10 L2 and S20 L2 (an older batch I mean) and both of them had OP. Although I could change the two Olight for OP version, I did not because I am confortable with SMO. IMO, OP is good for more lumens (less losses) but SMO throws better (we compared both of them and SMO was better focused than OP).

Did not know that! Mine S20-L2 has the OP reflector and at Olights website the S10-L2 and the S20-L2 displayed there are also OP.

 

[Capolini]

My S10 is also SMO.I got it a few weeks ago. The S20 will be here tomorrow!

I see what your saying about getting SMO instead of the OP reflector.

Overall I like the torch.

What matters more to me is I wish I could change Two things.

The Yellowish tint[I like Cool white] and the lack of a "Low Battery Indicator" on this S10 L2 version.

Beside more output, more run time[18650 battery], I got the S20 L2 because it Does have the low Battery Indicator! I am sure it will still have the "Yellowish" tint,,,,,,I am learning to over look that!

 

[spark001uk]

It does have a low batt indicator - the beam brightness drops!

No seriously, I get a significant drop in the brightness, then it starts flickering, then the battery protection cuts in I guess (not let it get that far as yet).
Could even be why they decided the red light wasn't entirely necessary, who knows?

 

[RetroTechie]

More likely a simplification to help make it an affordable light (just speculating here!). Personally I would have preferred a low batt. indicator.

But cycling modes low -> medium -> high -> low etc works too. The difference in output between medium and high is a good indicator:
Big jump from medium -> high: battery in good condition.
Little difference from medium -> high: battery is largely depleted.
High mode is skipped entirely: battery is near empty. With an RCR123 you should read this as: "swap battery ASAP. If you can't right now (but need the light), switch to moonlight or low to prevent over-discharge".