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Is it possible to get a Nichia 4500k dropin optimized for one CR123? It's for an older Surefire weapon light (344AR). If yes, what mA choices are available? Thanks
HI
You are supposed to do exactly what you are doing with the spring. You need to leave at least one ring of the spring to make a good ground, I send a whole spring becuase some members may be using a after market lamphead much like you are that can increase the pocket length. While I have not tested a Cryos head you may be able to use more than one ring with that lamphead and your 6P vs a stock head . The spring should be cut long enough to keep the module from rattling inside the lamphead and to keep good contact on the battery with out needing undo force to close the lamphead. Too short and it may not contact the batteries properly since there can be up to several MM difference in length between protected and non protected batts.
While a 6P / C2 / Z2 may only take one ring a Solarforce L2P will take a whole spring as will several others this is why I send a whole spring, if you have a couple of surefires cut one ring off each end of a single spring and save the other spring in case you buy a host that takes a whole spring and that way you can use a module in both.
Dave
Hi Amigo
I can easily make it 1.4 or 1.7 amps your call, let me know.
Thanks for the kind words
Dave
Dave...I'm going to confess to ignorance as to the tradeoffs between the 1.4 and 1.7 amp options. Could I persuade you to elaborate? Thanks.
I usually remove the spring entirely, and make a slight interference fit with the tape against the sides of the body where the module fits, is this bad practice?
Could I please put an order in for the following?
· Cree XM-L + $40
· T40 flux bin 5B3 4000k neutral white
· 3 level, Low / Med / High
· With memory
· Regulated, 2.8-6 volts at 2.8 amp
· Smooth reflector
· With thermal Potting and copper tape + $5.00
· Priority Mail International +$15
Total = $60
It will be used in a Solarforce L2P host with x1 AW protected 3100mah 18650 cell.
I have a few neutral XML's, as I just find them easier on my eyes (sensitive). My favourite tint is the one my Zebralight SC600w has. It says that it is 4200k, but not sure about other emitter details? Is the bin etc I have picked on the same lines as the SC600w? Even better if it is a bit warmer still.
Thanks for any help/advice!
...Oh and (Transaction ID: 2NW07861EV954483X).
Hi
There is about 30 to 40 lumens difference between the two but remember there is always a trade off, you will get less runtimes for a small increase in lumens.
Dave
Hi
You can do it the way you are but you have to be very careful not to bend the tape too far around the bottom to where it will comprise the positive. Often it is easier to use one ring of the spring and keep the copper tape on the reflector but since you have had good results there is nothing wrong with what you are doing. If you have problems when the host is shaken then drop back to one ring, I try to get most folks not to use tape simply because I don't want the bottom of the module compromised to where a short may occur.
Dave
Hi
I don't have all these hosts so I can not comment on the tint or flux bin of the light you have, most members have loved this tint so hopefully it will be as wanted. I do believe at this time I may only have a 4C in 4k, I will have to check. If you want warmer I do have a 3500k emitter also.
thanks
Dave
If you do not have the bin I selected, could you just pick the closest to it that you do have...I trust your judgement
I already have a one of the high CRI Nichia's on the way, so wanted something not as warm, a bit brighter instead. The 3500k might be too warm, I don't know?
One of the others you have close is fine.
Thanks again!
Dave...I'm going to confess to ignorance as to the tradeoffs between the 1.4 and 1.7 amp options. Could I persuade you to elaborate? Thanks.
I went with 1.4 and couldn't be happier with the quantity of light output. This coming from an overdriven XML guy.
Just a question
Do the XML 2.3-6V modules use drivers with AMC7135 chips?
If NOT what is the current draw with 2xCR123s
Do you find that the Nichia "carries" farther? I find that to my eyes in the woods, lower CRI/"colder" LED's tend to "gray out" and lose detail at the very edge of their maximum useful range, when compared to an incan. Is the Nichia the same, or does the high CRI make it behave like an incandescent light?
*excited to get mine in a few days*