Polarion HID 35W Dive Light - "Abyss U2"

[karlthev]

Well...I just might get twisted into that...:thinking:...............:twothumbs



Karl

 

[cue003]

lol.....yes you sure do, just like I need another. If the converted price is correct it would make a nice 35W, 90 minute run, compliment to the PH50. On the down side, it takes a different battery but if we want a shorter light than the P series, I don't seen any way around the battery format.

In some ways, the X1 and Abyss are almost a better package design since both lights depend on handles. The PH style only had to be longer and skinnier to accommodate the handle-less PF style. Since there is no handle-less X1 they were able to make it fatter and shorter.


So what do you think Karl, "groupbuy!" :naughty:

You know I will be in for a groupbuy on this too. :naughty:

 

[Patriot]

You know I will be in for a groupbuy on this too. :naughty:

I sort of figured, but you know, it is going to want a big brother to mentor it. That can't happen if you sell your PH50.

 

[vee73]

Abyss video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAUpqVL6X_A

U2-D / S

Abyss / PH50

Abyss U2-S / PH50 / U2-D

U2-D ballast

U2-S ballast

U2-D

http://www.kuvaboxi.fi/mediaobjects/orig/pub/2009/08/20/8143010478554073450orig.jpg

http://www.kuvaboxi.fi/mediaobjects/orig/pub/2009/08/20/8143010478554073402orig.jpg


U2-S

http://www.kuvaboxi.fi/mediaobjects/orig/pub/2009/08/20/8143010478554073448orig.jpg

Image original location:
http://www.kuvaboxi.fi/julkinen/28g8j+vesa-polarion-esittely-kunnon-kuvilla.html

 

[cue003]

Vee73, thanks for taking the time to post all these pictures and also the link to the site. Very informative pictures.

1) The handle seems to be removable but really why would you want to remove it? Are other "types" of handles/mounts in the works or something? The light by itself seems to large for normal hands to hold (same as the X1) without a handle.

2) Is the allen bolt on the magnetic switch for field replacements/cleaning or something after diving?

3) Type II or Type III annodizing on the Abyss?

4) can the tailcap be used on an X1?

5) the picture of the circuit board for the U2-S shows a DUAL 35W/40 marking..... interesting... there isn't a HI/LO with this light is there?

6) would be nice if someone took or added a shot of the U2-S with the diffusion filter snap on in the hallway so that it can be then compared to the U2-D

7) Looks like (from video) they switched from the hard case to the bag for the Abyss....

Ken, any word on price yet?

 

[cue003]

I sort of figured, but you know, it is going to want a big brother to mentor it. That can't happen if you sell your PH50.

I hear ya... however the PH50 is going to be on its way to its new home as soon as I return from out of town. :-( This Abyss might be the lone wolf/big dawg of the household for a while.

 

[karlthev]

They did go from the hard case to the soft bag as part of the standard package--the hard case seems to be offered as an accessory---which, at this price, should be included in the package if you ask me!:sigh:

I also note that this file identifies a run time of 20-30 minutes before it turns off (for heat management) when the light is used "on land". Used in the intended environment, the light would have sufficient cooling to run until the battery is exhausted.

See the attached link http://www.polarion-store.fi/pdf/Abyss-manual-eng-1.pdf

You may have to copy and paste this one...



Karl

 

[Patriot]

I also note that this file identifies a run time of 20-30 minutes before it turns off (for heat management) when the light is used "on land". Used in the intended environment, the light would have sufficient cooling to run until the battery is exhausted.

Karl

As you pointed out, the PDF states:
"While using the light on land, it turns off after 20~30 mins"


I wonder if this was a translation mistake? Perhaps it should read, "light may turn off after 20-30 mins?" It's the same basic design and size of the X1 which is now operating at 40W. I can't imagine this light turning itself off after 20 minutes because it just wouldn't follow logic. It will be interesting to hear more about this.

I must say, the 5500K "D" model provides some amazingly pure and properly colored light for the camera's sake. The beam is so smooth and beautiful that it would make the perfect caving or urban exploration light. I'm a bit less skeptical about this lens and reflector combo not that I've seen some shots of it. It certainly limits your options if you should suddenly have a need for throw, but the beam looks much nicer than just slapping a diffuser on the front of an otherwise standard model.



BTW Vee, thank you very much for posting these links. I was unclear if your actually owned these lights already or just reviewed them. Which ever the case, which model do you like better, the D or S?

:thanks:

 

[karlthev]

Good point Paul! No warning on the X1 as you say....the only thing I can think of is the possibility of a more stout construction (to guarantee being more water resistant at greater depths?) and possible resultant insulation of the ballast--making heat dissipation less efficient? I'm grasping for straws with this one though.....but..


"Because the Polarion AbyssTM is designed for underwater use, prolonged use on land can cause overheating. When this occurs , it simply triggers the thermal protection circuit and will shut down. It will return to normal operation once the light has cooled down."



Karl

 

[Patriot]

"Because the Polarion AbyssTM is designed for underwater use, prolonged use on land can cause overheating. When this occurs , it simply triggers the thermal protection circuit and will shut down. It will return to normal operation once the light has cooled down."

Providing that there are no major differences in heat sinking between the U2 and X1, your above example of what it should read looks great to me. The way the PDF reads now is alarming, as if the light shuts down after 20-30 minutes regardless. I'm still going to assume it's a Korean to English translation problem.

 

[karlthev]

Well, I'll defer to your thoughts---I am fully with you on this one! I'm expecting when we get them, they'll run longer than 20-3o minutes...least I hope so!


Karl

 

[Patriot]

Karl, thanks for the PM. I didn't realize that you were taking a quote from the PDF a few posts back. That's not the same vebiage used in the PDF that I read.

Here is the one you posted:

(PDF that Karl found)

"Because the Polarion AbyssTM is designed for underwater use, prolonged use on land can cause overheating. When this occurs , it simply triggers the thermal protection circuit and will shut down. It will return to normal operation once the light has cooled down."

(PDF that I found)

While using the light on land, it turns off after 20~30 mins.
Because the Polarion Abyss is designed for underwater use, prolonged use on
land can cause overheating. When this occurs, it simply triggers the thermal
protection circuit and will shut down. It will return to normal operation once the light has cooled down.

Ok, I see now that it was under the trouble shooting section and the portion that I changed to bold was an example of a symptom. In that case I'm not sure why they assigned a 20-30 minute value since if the ambient temperature were lower it could just as well reach thermal shut down at 40-50 or 60-70 minutes. It seems to me that it should instead read. while using the light on land, it turns off prior to the battery being exhausted.

Thanks for the "head-up" Karl.

 

[karlthev]

Well, you're welcome....if I deserve it...:shrug:

We're all Polarion fans here and I think we all want to get the best information possible before we pull the trigger on a buy. I'd like to see some response from others as well....Ken?? Are we reading the literature correctly?



Karl

 

[cue003]

Well, you're welcome....if I deserve it...:shrug:

We're all Polarion fans here and I think we all want to get the best information possible before we pull the trigger on a buy. I'd like to see some response from others as well....Ken?? Are we reading the literature correctly?



Karl

I too am hoping that was a bad translation. It will be a no-go if I cant get a fair amount of land usage out of it...... i am sure things will get cleared up one way or another once Ken or someone else gets their hands on these.

Curtis

 

[vee73]

Patriot. Diving Lights, I have only a test. I do not own them. I do not know which is better. They are so different.

Here is my pre-tested lamps:
http://www.kuvaboxi.fi/mediaobjects/orig/pub/2009/07/26/8143010478553041683orig.jpg
http://www.kuvaboxi.fi/mediaobjects/orig/pub/2009/07/26/8143010478553041669orig.jpg

This still updated list:
http://www.kuvaboxi.fi/mediaobjects/orig/pub/2009/08/21/8143010478554100721orig.jpg


I decided to take the test images U2-S with diffusor.

This once again U2-D

U2-S

U2-S with diffuser

U2-S with My own made diffuser

Graphics test corridor:

This once again U2-D corridor

U2-S corridor

U2-S with diffuser

U2-S with My own made diffuser

My own made get really close to U2-D. Light Effect is even greater than the U2-D.
Preparation my own diffuser sand blowing off the color Polarion colored filter.


Here in Finland, PH40 to pay 1495 €. Abyss pay 1290 €.

 

[karlthev]

vee73---great pictures! Thanks!


Karl

 

[cue003]

Excellent vee73.... I thanks for taking the diffuser based pictures as well on the U2-S.... I was thinking we would see more "diffusion".

Can you take a picture of your homemade diffusion filter next to the standard Polarion one? Sand blasting one of the colored filters sounds interesting. Which color?

Thanks again.

 

[vee73]

The original front

Original from behind

Colored sand-blasted off the color. The front.

Colored sand-blasted off the color. From behind

It does not matter what color.
Color is only one side of glass. I have seen the color to be only the back side.
Can also sandblast the front. This will be colored diffusion filter. I have done this for all of Polarion and Microfire filter.
I have all the colors of two. Original and diffusor.

These are all I use, for example, when I take photos in the woods.
http://www.kuvaboxi.fi/julkinen/2auki+vesa-luontokuvia-fikkarilla-hoystettyna.html

If you want to blow the sand, it is not required even to open it.
But always better if you do.

Here you can see how easy Polarion opening of the filter is.
http://www.kuvaboxi.fi/mediaobjects/orig/pub/2008/12/27/8143010478546062275orig.jpg
http://www.kuvaboxi.fi/mediaobjects/orig/pub/2008/12/27/8143010478546062277orig.jpg


Admittedly, the image series switch Polarion and Microfire the filter with each other. But the principle is the same.:thumbsup:

Oh, yeah. Microfire Filters are not painted. They are full color glass.


Vesa

 

[SunFire900]

Fantastic woods photos! It must be a lot of work setting up your equipment to take these shots. Of course, it is not really work when you love doing it.

Great lights, too.:twothumbs

 

[vee73]

Thanks! SunFire900.
Yes, these images requires a lot of experiments. And they still can not always succeed. You are right. It is my favorite hobby. Here in Finland, in winter the sun does not rise at all. All people hate it. But me, my PH40 and PH50 loved it:twothumbs