Review: The NiteFLUX RedZone 4

[Steve K]

the Big Question seems to be: how do I make myself noticed among the other traffic or distractions?

I'm guessing that there's not One Universal Answer, but among the standard practices are:
- bright lights, to increase the signal to noise ratio (more critical when in heavy traffic).
- flashing lights. My own belief is that using flashing amber lights in addition to a steady red taillight is the most appropriate method, since flashing amber is understood to mean "caution", and should cause other traffic to assume that you are either stationary or slow, and could be a hazard.
- large areas of reflective material.
- apply these practices such that they are effective in all directions.

I'm still waiting for the automotive active safety systems, such as the collision avoidance radars, to become common. Then we can start adding RF corner reflectors to our bikes.

regards,
Steve K.

 

[Orum]

... With distractions, we can be undetected with decent lights. Being seen sooner for a longer time period on approach is about all we can do there. Too bad we don't have relative effectiveness of the bike's lighting as a variable to see how effective brighter tail lights are but that woudl not have been recorded or the first thing on people's minds, and rightly so.

Very true. This is why I try to do a little math, FWIW. I figure, drivers are likely to be distracted for up to 10s or so (use whatever figure you're comfortable with). Combine that with the speed limit on the road you're on, assuming they're at least 5 mph above the limit, and a few extra seconds to recognize and maneuver around you, and you should get a distance. I want to be seen from at least that distance on a strait or slightly curved road.

And yes, the data is lacking, but I can see it being difficult to obtain accurate information. E.g., a case where a drunk driver kills a well lit cyclist, then lies to police and says the cyclists lights were off (and either turns them off himself before authorities get there, or perhaps they got wrecked in the crash).

But as you said, there's only so much you can do with lights. Being smart about what routes you take, how you cycle, and what you wear (helmet, vest, etc) can have just as much of an effect as lights.

I'm still waiting for the automotive active safety systems, such as the collision avoidance radars, to become common. Then we can start adding RF corner reflectors to our bikes.

This would be awesome, assuming it's done right. Most importantly, I imagine it might be difficult to avoid false positives (have you seen the way people drive in big cities?), and if you get too many of those, people will start to ignore the warning.

p.s. - Sorry for getting so off topic

 

[BrianMc]

^ Forgiven.

In another thread, the manufacturers were challenged to make a headlight with good side visibility. I find it odd that we as amateurs are ahead of them in this area. These accident data aren't new. Sounds like English drivers are a lot like my local ones, even if German or Dutch ones are more cyclist aware and friendly. So where are such headlights? I'm just sayin'....

There are times, weather, and roads I avoid. Ride smart or else. We can only mnimize, we can't eliminate.

Here is an interesting paint so you can keep your nice paint job free of tape.

Update on NA Red Zone 4 Delivery:

On the 06/20 I received an e-mail from David Bastians of NiteFLUX. The first batch of lights' switches showed some that were not operating as easily in the cold (winter there) as they should. Recognizing this could be very undesireable in NA, the second batch is being built with a more cool weather friendly switch. Keeness on getting hands on these has been noted and appreciated.

So a new and revised version is coming to thsi thread, hopefully soon and ahead of the fall bike light demand.

 

[Savvas]

Sounds like they are monitoring production feedback carefully. Pretty good that he informed you what is happening and of the action he has taken! My own switch is fairly stiff. I picked mine up personally and David's instruction at the time was 'use your thumb - finger pressure is not strong enough!' I found David and his operation very credible so - although there may be some delay - I would be confident that you will get your light asap. I'm pretty happy with mine - will attempt more pictures shortly.

Sam

 

[BrianMc]

^ Exactly my thoughts on response. This thread is amazingly long for one based primarily on a single unit! So this light strikes a chord as does the company.

 

[swhs]

I tend to agree with Znomit on this issue, at least in regards to rural roads. I spend most of my commute on roads that are straight for miles. The LEDs in my taillight have a beam angle of 8 degrees, I think (it's been a while since I bought them). At a distance of one mile (5280 feet, or 1.6km), the beam width is 741 feet (226m). This is certainly wide enough to cover the road's width, making it visible to anyone on the road at that distance.

I didn't really think of 8 degrees being tight, but in my response also I was thinking about emanating surface. I guess I should have written it up better but what the niteflux does seems to be what I think is better than most LED taillamps. Tests I've done so far confirm this and lets be honest, have you ever heard of a car driver saying "I didn't see the taillamps on the car in front of me?". Well, it's possible but those are the same idiots who don't see a bike completely painted in reflective paint, who as BrianMC noted, don't see an ambulance with all their lights on etc. And yet, car taillamps are not nearly as annoying as most LED dynamo taillamps for sale here in NL...

What you need is a lot of emanating surface, and a tight beam is then ok, i.e. nearly parallel lines, I'm thinking much less than 8 degrees.

What is absolutely unacceptable in Dutch and German traffic, but also unnecessary elsewhere, is very bright, fairly tight beams coming from nearly a point source. Even a tight beam I don't think is that important, what matters most is a reasonable size emanating surface with reasonable intensity.

For my taillamp reviews I will soon make long-distance images with and without the direct point-source light from the LED (putting a piece of tape over that part) which should show the problem that I'm talking about with taillamps, is of no actual use because visibility is barely enhanced (I did some quick tests that show this already, but I want to be sure and try with more lamps at various distances).

 

[Steve K]

I agree that a larger emitting surface would be a good thing, in terms of reducing the intensity and therefore being less offensive to people who have to look at it. Something that was the size of the B&M taillights (mounted to racks) might be a good starting point.

In general, I think that this sort of design would not be popular with cyclists if only because it's less convenient to mount a large taillight to an average bike. Of course, this may be saying more about the way bikes are used here in the USA than worldwide use.

A large light would also have the advantage of offering a visual cue to approaching vehicles that they are getting close. With a very small light, you would have to be very close before you could detect that it was getting larger as you approach. Of course, if the bike is equipped with reflective materials, depending on the location, the combination of a taillight and reflectors might produce a large enough image to make it easier for approaching traffic to tell that they are getting close (or closer) to the bike.

regards,
Steve K.

 

[BrianMc]

Size counts. Eight degrees is narrow compared to 30. The Superflash has a weirdly shaped hot spot but it is about 12 degrees by my crude measure.

I read something about looking versus seeing relating to physician care and diagnosis, that I think is pertinent to this thread and discussing "being seen":

First we set aside drivers who are not looking. Whether impaired so they are not processing visual cues or distracted by phones so their 'mind's eye' is not on the road, or they aren't looking where they are going at all. Nothing legal is going to get their attention visually. This is where a defensive riding 'way out' and a loud voice or horn come into play. (I'd like a small horn like the Mask used in the movie, but I suspect that isn't legal.) Add in a lack of sleep and 'fuzzy brains', inexperienced drivers, drivers whose vision is not as good as we would like, and we have a dangerous world to cycle in. But I digress.

Drivers are bombarded with an overload of visual and auditory information. We also get into habits so even where we are not overly assaulted we still filter the input. If we did not we'd be autistic. We filter it by ignoring whatever is deemed irrelevant. Our filters can be faulty, though and based on bad habits we got away with. If we look only for cars we miss motorcycles, for example. Works well until the first motorcycle is there, right? A search for a hammer comes up empty because we are seeing a full hammer in our mind, and don't see it in the toolbox. If we look again, and look instead for a bit of handle, claw, or head, well, By George! there it is under the screwdriver and crescent wrench! How'd I miss that? By not looking with the right filter/expectation in mind. Wives filter differently from husbands so the 'blind' husband doesn't find the socks right in front of his nose. "Oh! They're Navy!" he says, realizing he was looking for the wrong thing so of course did not find what he was looking for. Funny how that works! Cyclists partially hidden by traffic and other obstructions can be missed because they didn't look like a cyclist. Camoflage works this way breaking up the outline so it is harder to recognize.

People told to watch a video and count the number of times a ball is passed between people wearing white miss the 'Girl in the black Gorilla suit' sauntering through the scene. If they watch the peple wearing black, the girl-illa is sighted. She was not filtered out.

So drivers will not see a yellow school bus, a bright red dump truck, or an ambulance with lights going, if they are a bit preoccupied or overtired and apply too tight a filter for too short a period of time to allow the unexpected to penetrate and get the 'Oh a Dump Truck!' recognition. They are not looking to see if anything is on the road, only if cars are there. So they miss the obvious. If 'Cadillac stops' or worse, drive-throughs at speed are common, there just isn't time. If the driver is not vary attentive to all traffic, a cyclist wil not be seen if not expected. Some jurisdictions recognize this and you can be cited for rolling before being stationary for three seconds, I assume that is deemed the minimum time to look right , left, and back right again for traffic and safely proceed.

I have noticed an improvement as I have cycled more locally and I am more paranoid, not less. I think I am increasing people's filters for a bike travelling 12-25 mph, (depending on wind, grade). I am being included in their filters.

Wearing an ANSI vest the same as road workers should come inside their filters. The flashing yellow side marker is expected as a turn signal and 4-way so should be seen. Motorcycles are making flashing headlights more expected. Flashing red lights should pass the filter too. I suspect the filter concept explains why I appear to be seen and granted more right of way at night. Drivers are looking for vehicle lights. Different filter, different expectation. So daytime running lights, side marking lights, or tail lights need to be close to car turn signal and brake lights in intensity or they stand a good chance of being filtered out as just background noise. This amoutn of light is likely too strong for night use when lights are more expected and people want their night vision undamaged. Power is also good where being seen at a distance comes in, such as along high speed roads. So multiple power levels would be good.

Oddities can punch through the driver's visual filter to the subconscious as 'something weird' forcing them to drop the filter and look intently. The gorilla in black wasn't odd enough. Carrying a torch or waving a flag? I suspect she'd not be missed then. Vehicles moving around a hidden road obstruction (cyclist), asynchronous flashing lights are seen on emergency vehicles and bikes, (nothing else I know of), a bright helmet light that weaves and bobs as the cyclist pedals, is not at normal vehicle height nor the right action for a vehicle, and should punch through. Lit up wheels/rims, pedals would fit in here, too.

So it isn't just the physics of lumens, distance, and retinal imaging. There is a lot of visual perception and issues of making them look, too.

Mostly, we are trying to help drivers not mess up. We can't fix stupid or psychopaths.

Brian

 

[LEDAdd1ct]

I'm glad you posted the story about the moonwalking gorilla. I was shown that a week ago by the kid I used to babysit, and I was going to post that here. I agree with everything you say above.




LEDAdd1ct

 

[BrianMc]

The Red Zones are coming! The Red Zones are coming! E-mail that they shipped today.

Bonus: The NA preorders are being refunded for being patient! WOW!

I hope I can stay objective. That is exceptional customer support. I figured if you bought in early, you rode the development issues with them for being first on board!

Still waiting for my transfers for my repaint. So the errand bike and helmet will be my model again.

BrianMc

 

[Savvas]

That is exceptional customer support....BrianMc

I'm not surprised at the discount that NA 'prepayers' have been offered. As I said after I met him, the owner and designer at NightFlux seemed like a seriously committed fellow with a genuine interest in good design and a quality product - as well as having a very +ve business attitude. His warning light is quite different on concept to the PBSF and similar lights. It's (I think) not necessarily functionally 'better' but shouldn't we welcome difference? I do think it's likely to be a far more versatile beast than many of the small 'focussed' lights and it's certainly built to a much higher level of quality and physical integrity. I believe that it deserves serious consideration despite it's rather high cost, especially for those bike users who also engage in other active solo sports such as running, canoeing etc.

Sam

 

[BrianMc]

Notified today that the RedZone 4's shipped from the US warehouse. Expected by Thurday at the latest.

BrianMc

PS. Nice and hot and now days are shorter so won't have to stay up so late to video in darkness.

 

[LEDAdd1ct]

Keep us posted!

 

[BrianMc]

Keep us posted!

I got posted. USPS delivery today. (April 30 pre-order, payment refunded).:thumbsup:
lovecpf I am trying to remain an unbiased flinty-eyed reviewer. They are small flip phone size with a semi-see through red impact casing showing some of the electronics. A form follows function simplicity rather than a lot of fancy packaging. Understated and classy-nerdy. Stainless wire llop clip on the back.

The packaging is refreshingly minimal saving all that oil, trees and stuff to recycle. The small 'if it fits it ships ' box with the two lights and bill of lading. Each light came with a small parts zip lock bag for the misc bits & pieces. It and the light and the label/instructions in a larger, small zip lock bag. Given the impact protection, that is all it really should need. However I suspect that the box they were in was compressed (to shut a plane's cargo door?) because one light came out flashing away it's low voltage warning! These switches are not a light touch either. Thumb power is recommended. So unless someone shipped it out 'on', the box was squeezed or subjected to some hefty G-force on edge to get the light's mass to click the switch.

No harm, no foul. The driver has a low voltage cutoff, the battery will survive.

Here one is in the bag on the label/instruction sheet side:

Here it is the other side (you can see the two LEDs):

Here it is unpacked (the black rectangles are spare USB port plugs):

Here are the pair charging:

There are two indicator LEDs (a smaller yellow above a larger red, but the red washes it out. Sorry I can't hold the camera phone steady enough for crisp focus, but we don't really need it, do we? I will get a pic of the fullly charged state for comparison.

The label covers turning it on/off changing modes, removing the USB port plug, the universal mounting strap, and refers owner to the top of the Red Zone page (http://www.niteflux.com/downloads/Manual Red Zone 4.pdf) for detailed mounting instructions and more options. It comes with a 12 month warranty and an extended warranty of up to an additonal 2 years is available within 30 days of purchase (when you spend $100 and have a sealed battery, this may be of value to some).

Feels at least twice as massive as a PBSF with AAA's aboard. This light is about LIGHT not light weight.

The pdf manual is eesential if you want to alter power levels or flashing styles (page 3) or to figure out how it is intended to be mounted to a seat post (I was close by observation but missed a trick, page 4). An optional narrower wire clip is available from NiteFLUX to fit smaller light tabs on rack trunks, saddlebags, under seat bags, and the like.

It ships with Level 1,5 and 8 active. These are a 0.15 W flash, 4 Watt Flash, and 1.2 W solid. Other options to activate instead are 0.3 and 0.6 W solid, and 0.6, 1.2, and 2.4 W flashing. There are eight patterns to choose from and the factory selection is a 'strident quadruple' flashing pattern. Obnoxious is good. If not for you seven choices should be enough to provide you with one you'll like.

Charging takes 5 hours, so I may catch an early evening light and late evening dark 'ridebys' today but there is a threat of severe thunderstorms, we had 1.2 " of rain this morning, the first in weeks. The bright sun rideby will have to wait.

The lowest setting may do for a group ride situation. To 'getherdone' I will try the two factory settings to get a feel for whether 1.2 or 2.4 flashing is the better urban street night setting for me.

BrianMc

 

[BrianMc]

Whencharged the red LED goes into blink mode and you can then see the smaller status LED is green.

I forgot when you swap batteries in my camera, the time stamp goes to default. So ignore it please. Videos 08/03/2011 circa 8-8:30 PM, except the last which has the right time stamp.

Evening light video comparable to overcast day. Easel has two Red Zone 4's center upper, two DIY 100 lumne bubble lens lights center lower, A PB Turbo Left end of easel shelf, Radbot 1000 right end of easel shelf, ans a DangerZone center left of easel shelf. All batteries recently charged but run long enough to be off the high voltage of fresh charge.

This one is straight back, camera 50 feet away, zoomed, and on night exposure. Left RedZone is at 2.4 W, right at 4.0 W.

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/691/2s9e.mp4/


The 1.2 W setting was brighter than the DangerZone straight back but not quite as bright as the Radbot 1000, or PB Turbo, but the 2.4 W is comparable to my eye to the Turbo but the pulse lasts longer and is bigger. The DIY lights are at a 45 degree angle so are less visible straight back. If the bike swings, one or other of their higher intensity central beams come to bear.

This one is also straight back, both Red Zones at 4.0 Watts.

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/846/ous.mp4/

Yep, that works.

This one is at 45 degrees straight down one of the DIY beams. The RedZone 4's are 1.2 W (left, nearer, 4.0 W right, further).

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/689/z3cc.mp4/

Even at 1.2 W the RedZone beats the Danger Zone, Turbo, on left part of shelf (closer) and the 1000 on the right sire (further). The full 4 W is awesome. At 45 degress, the Redzone 4s don't give up much to the beamier DIY on axis and their flashing mode is more attention getting than full on.

The side on (Radbot is eclipsed, but it is not as good as either the Danger Zone or Turbo side on) video, and the Dangerzone is lost in the blaze from the two RedZone 4s:

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/819/28023576.mp4/

Only my DIY and the RedZones report for much duty at the side on angle, trhe bubble lenses work better i the dark, though..

LiteFLUX suggests clipping a Red Zone to the helmet's occipital strap. Mine has this big ol' adjuster making a single straight back impossible without some custom effort. So since I have two, I will try them mounted each side of the adjuster aiming out at about 45 degrees from straight back. I will find out how much they hurt my night vision.

Well, unless you are near something to get flashback, that placement on the Occipital straps does not blind with direct light from the Red Zone 4s. One does shine into the helmet mirror though, so I'll have to see if I can move the mirror out enough to avoid that.

Here is a rideby on my unlit street with no vehicle lights to 'fire' the reflective stuf on me and the bike. A pedestrian or skunks' view, if you will. The camera is NOT zoomed for driver 'tunnel vision' , night mode +2 exposure (still not nearly as sensitive as the human eye, but good enough for our purposes, at 25 feet from the road. Figure this is the sensitivity of a driver (what he/she would see) 50-75 feet from the road. I rode sort of fast to keep the file size down but maybe close to my average pace showing how little time you have to be seen (if they are looking in the first place):

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/690/ozg.mp4/

On the return I pointed the helmet light at the camera as I would to an approaching car that appeared not to be yielding. Our headlights remain our best defense. I think you 'd have to agree that mounted like this, the RedZone 4 s are unlike anything we have had before in terms of power and distribution. Stopping at differnt frames shows things well.

I had both of the RedZones at 4 W. Wanted this video, post here, and then to bed. Besides the dyno headlight on the front rack, and the the helmet light with side lights, there are two DIY 100 lumen 45 degree non-flashing lights on the seat post, and two 45 degreee Radbot 1000s on the seat stays below them, and the single Turbo on the rear rack another center back of the helmet. The Turbos are pathetic at these angles. (this of course begs for ride away videos, so they CAN be seen. Be patient. The ability for light to exit the sides of the Turbo, DangerZone, and Radbot 1000 may make user think that appreciable 'to be seen' light is emitted. I think it is dangerously inadequate making a cyclist feel safer and more visible than he/she actually is, but that's just MHO.

Even the angled-out Radbots are hardly 'there' as their main narrow beams kick in after the bike is well past and fuse with the DIY beams so you can just make out their pulsing as their main beam comes into play amost out of frame. You can see the side output of the helmet light in some frames and I plan to triple the brightness of that side output, but the Red Zone 4s will still be brighter, I think.

The Redzone 4s are all that I hoped they would be. The 4 watts would be too much riding with buddies. They don't seem excessive to me in this video. I think the blinking keeps them from being too bright, an issue with my DIY lights. Weight wise on the helmet, I felt no neck strain, and the two are lighter than my video camera when helmet mounted. They seemed to balance the helmet headlight nicely and being lower aren't straining the tilting muscles.

OK. The nigglies. These are not massively produced lights in the PBSF vein, though as a driver, I wish they might be, so every cyclist could own one or two. These are not a price-no-object one-off or a limited edition item either. So some slack is in order.

I found the wire clips very stiff and I hope that means they will last and gradually ease off. If the lights stay on the helmet where they now are, this is a one time struggle for each new helmet. If you are moving them from canoe to back pack to a wheelchair, whatever, I hope you have strong fingers. or they ease off some. I have hyperextendible finger joints so have difficulty applying pressure though my thumb or finger tips (no finger pushups for me, the joints just bend back). So the clip may be harder for me than for most. The material that keeps the light safe from impact is soft and easily marked, so don't rub it abrassively with a rag and those who have to have everything absolutely 'cherry' may need to take some care. Scratches might help dispersion some, though.

The switch is stiff for me. Fortunately you will likely only set your power and flash selection one time. I currenlty have all eight selectable on both lights for testing purposes. I wore my thumbs out holding and deleting until I got all five. On/Off isn't easy but not as hard because you aren't repeating it of holding to get into the menu. I may turn them off and on in the house in the winter if they get stiffer in the cold.

I really like this flash pattern. There are seven more. One is "B-I-K-E' in Morse Code. Must have a pause so that it isn't 'I-K-E-B', or 'K-E-B-I' or 'E-B-I-K' as well. "SOS" is likely the other Morse option. The other five flashing seem to be different speed single flashes from their video.

So we need a ride by in front of vehicle lights and under street lights and a ride-away, plus some playing with the mirror.

The white ones mounted to glove backs (or lower arms if your gloves are in windshields in winter) would make great front side markers with hands on bars and and arm signal markers when the arms are raised to signal.

More to come.

BrianMc.

 

[Savvas]

The switch is stiff for me...BrianMc.

Yep - I think the appropriate technique is to hold the Redzone with your 1st, 2nd and 3rd fingers at the top and whatever is the most stable part of your thumb at the switch end and press hard. It's an acquired technique but not too hard. Alternatively, if you really don't have the required joint stability you could always just briefly and gently press the switch 'bump' against something dense like your leather saddle, your bike frame or stem etc.

Your review Brian has reminded me that there are more than than the 3 pre-set modes! Must get the manual downloaded and figure them out.

Savvas.

 

[BrianMc]

Note: correction. The full 170 degree field of vision of the camera was used in the last video, previous post. I have corrected the wording. Unlike my old SLR, with a mechanical zoom, this camera must be reset each shoot and at night with a black screen I can't tell it reset itself.

I edited and uploaded the previous double ride-by with Zoom On Full so it is close to what a driver at a stop line would see. I was riding slower maybe 12 mph (thank goodness), only the Turbo on the helmet was on with the DIYs and the two helmet mounted Red Zones. I turned my head briefly to the camera on the last time by but a bit early and not long enough to get more than a hint of what that would be like in a driver's eyes. He/she will not mistake there is nothing there!

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/854/amx.mp4/

Me as an UFO. Look ma! No wheels!

Camera is on Night exposure +2 stops is still not human sensitivity. This would be a sleepy/drunk/poor night vision person or a person whose night vision was lost by someone shining a bright light in his eyes. A reasonable worst case of driver eyesight, if you will. The 'driver' is looking only straight ahead or the other way before the cyclist comes into view. The headlights do little unless the patch on the road can be seen, and in this case the camera was too low (sedan height) and not sensitive enough for that. The side light of the helmet light shows well so a similar amber hood on the dyno light to reduce glare to oncoming and increase side visibility from the main headlight would help. The DIY's bubbles work very well and the Red Zone 4's steal the scene.

Having the Red Zone 4's this high and firing anglewise works very well. The PB Superflash Turbo is Superfluous from these angles. Straight back will be interesting.

An average of about 2 seconds to cross in front of the camera's field of vision. On a downhill, easily less than half that long. That first impression is a matter of life and limb. Of course we have no car headlights to help out or a driver checking both directions with head turns.

I think the buttons get a bit better with use (rode with them today on an errand) and the thumb doesn't complain for a single off on, compared to nixing all three factory settings to get all eight on two lights. On/off was not a big problem. Releasing too soon shutting off and going into the next setting can be because it returns to the last used setting.

I think an explanation is in order about how power settings are managed. The factory has selected 5 NOT to use giving you the three low flash, high flash, high steady. If you want to toggle only high flash and high on, you 'kill' the low setting. You now will have a 2-mode light. If you only ever want the high 4W flash, 'kill' the high steady, too. Your light will now be single mode. If you 'kill' that single setting all eight levels return and you have eight to toggle through or you can now delete those you do not want, to make a 1-7 mode light with the levels you want. Pretty slick. I thought at first it was always a 3-mode light and you just selected which three levels. Not so. This is better. Well done NiteFLUX.

This explains my thumb giving out because it took me a while to understand and I went through the first one twice making sure I understood correctly. I assume they have a stand with an solenoid switch depressor to program them or you'll know the guy who does, and never, ever thumb wrestle him!

For killing the last setting on the second light, my thumbs were done. so I was pressing it against the computer desk. If it works... Anyway this is one light that will NOT turn off or switch modes without your consent! Unlike certain PBSF's of old, the Tec Swerve, or apparently some of the PB Turbos.

I had an older driver pass me starting in the other lane (narrow road I was taking the center of my lane) and cutting back within a foot of me, so I guess they don't help drivers recognize your speed. Darn.

 

[BrianMc]

Some daylight videos, one night ride away video:

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/7013/kfr.mp4

Camera zoomed, and set at -2 stops. Simulates driver at stop line. I looked at the camera in second set briefly. So last pass doesn't show the Red Zone well. This close you don't have much time and the space between flashes seems too long. In the lane close to the 'stopped vehicle' the good helmet light to look at the driver, and the ANSI vest, are king. In the far side you warne the driver not to left hook you quite well with the RedZone even in full sun.

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/5053/hbd.mp4

Not zoomed 170 degrees, simulates a driver from maybe 75 feet away looking each way approaching the intersection. I looked at camera on second pass. A bit further back and there is time for the Redzone 4s to shine. The aimed straight back Turbos on the rack and helmet dis not appear in either video. They were on. That narrow beam has a cost. The radbots and DIY's were angled at 45 degrees, and they are picked up at the distances a driver turning right without stopping would find useful to spot a cyclist, but they show poorly until then.

http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/9009/1ei.mp4

The first ride away. Late afternoon sun washing out the lights. A driver without sunglasses or tinted windshield would see this. 0 stop and -2 would have given a sunglasses view. I ducked my head at the end so the Red Zone 4s were not in the sight line at the end. Conclusion: the Red Zone 4's on the 4W setting and at a 30 degree angle are brighter than the Turbo is straight on. Impressive. Very impressive. Obewon...er I mean, LiteFLUX has designed them well. The 45 degreee lights show that I was not dead behind and there was a grade effect. The sun on the reflective stripes of the ANSI vest makes it look nuclear powered. So the lights kick butt in the shade (start). This is bike light defense in depth. This site will work for a dark ride away, I'll keep my head up and go over the crest for it.

This is ridiculous. But I had to see what it looked like. The Turbo on the helmet switched itself into solid on mode (figures). I slid the two Redzones as far to the back as they would gor (about a 45 degree angle). I left the return in because the Red Zone 4's show up again.

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/827/o1h.mp4/

Red Man biking. This is overkill, I know. I won't deploy all of these on this bike for real. The Radbots are aimed out at 45 degrees or they would be showing better. The Red Zone 4's at 45 degrees are in the hunt with the Turbo, and if aimed straight back like the Turbo, it would be no contest for visibility. The excessively bright flash of the Turbo looks almost white in comparison. I did not notice the spill from the Red Zones over my shoulders affected my night vision in any way, and the mirror adjusted to only show a little glow along the inside edge. Remember the driver will see the reverse of the bright close tail lights to distant paler ones. The ramp up in brightness on approach is substantial.

So is one worth the price of three Turbos and NiMH AAAs? I think so. It is worth a bot to be able to tone it down when you need to. Then there is the B-I-K-E in Morse Code. Priceless.

 

[BrianMc]

Comparos (camera on night mode, +2 stops, not zoomed (170 degree, 30 fps, on tripod at SUV height):

Two Red Zone 4's, one on helmet, one on rack.

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/834/291.mp4/

Two Radbot 1000's same mounting:

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/851/ncq.mp4/

Two DangerZones (one on helmet had an unforeseen battery issue):

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/148/bch.mp4/

4 W spread to wide angles makes The Red Zone 4 a clear winner, and it should be given its cost and complexity.

The RedZone 4s with the DIY lights (side visibility to the next level) :

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/508/zln.mp4/

The camera is not as sensitive as human eyes, so the bike is more visible either side of straight ahead than what the camera shows. Also the car lights on the road at teh end of the lane are are brighter to the eye, so what we see at 1/4 mile just before turnaround is likely closer to what the eye sees at 1/2 mile. Still, given how wide and high the high beam is, I am still underwhelmed by side on lighting of reflective material. The angle of incidence = angle of refraction means the side spill of the high beams hitting the reflectors does not return to the driver.

As good as the Radbot 1000, Danger Zone, and Turbo are in a straight line, they can't touch the side output of the Red Zone 4's. You can't chose lower output levels with the cheaper blinkies. You can mount the Red Zone 4s to a helmet with no pivot because there is no narrow beam to keep level.

The switches on the Red Zones get easier to use with use.

BrianMc

 

[Savvas]

Thanks for going to all this effort Brian. On balance, while I really admire the clever use of optics on the latest round of blinkies, I think you be hard put to find a better application for XP-G power than the RedZone. Yes, behind a lense it would be much brighter to the rear but it would probably lose that off axis and side conspicuity. Mounting would also become more critical.

The 2 exceptions I see are:
- possibly mounting an XP-G behind a fresnel or other 'prism-surface' optic and leaving the sides open
- maybe doing a '360 diffuser/optic' design like 1what's.
Which all brings complexity which is I'm sure something Niteflux have sought to avoid.

Sam P.