S30R Baton Tailcap Issues and Upcoming Fix

[JJLXL]

Yes, but does it function like the above pictures? I.e. Charger station nub moves, and tail cap is solid. It's my understanding that all current models out there have a charger station with a solid nub, and a tail cap with a center piece that depresses.

 

[Tac Gunner]

I'm pretty sure it is just like the picture but I will check again this weekend.

 

[Lintush]

I bought S30R from UK (Torchdirect.co.uk) last December. I had problem for tailcap issues. From yesterday my light is completely dead. At first I thought it was the same tailcap issue, but it is not charging or not giving any output. I tested battery with other light and found battery is OK, so it must be the light itself. So what do I need to to do to get the light repair or warranty? Do I need to send everything or only the light will do? I am using it in Bangladesh and shipping is very hard for me, so please advice me what I should do.

 

[WarRaven]

I bought S30R from UK (Torchdirect.co.uk) last December. I had problem for tailcap issues. From yesterday my light is completely dead. At first I thought it was the same tailcap issue, but it is not charging or not giving any output. I tested battery with other light and found battery is OK, so it must be the light itself. So what do I need to to do to get the light repair or warranty? Do I need to send everything or only the light will do? I am using it in Bangladesh and shipping is very hard for me, so please advice me what I should do.

Try putting it on the charger base and back off of the base several times.
Debris probably has been caught in the center contact (pin) and is holding on from settling back into proper position.
The tail cap center pin pushes in on the light when set on charger base and is supposed to settle back down when taken off unless debris gets in way.

 

[Lintush]

Try putting it on the charger base and back off of the base several times.
Debris probably has been caught in the center contact (pin) and is holding on from settling back into proper position.
The tail cap center pin pushes in on the light when set on charger base and is supposed to settle back down when taken off unless debris gets in way.

Thanks for the advice but still not working.

 

[WarRaven]

Is tail cap on tight?

The o ring is the retention and let call loose.

You probably already checked a million times but thought I'd mention that too.
Try another battery?

 

[Lintush]

Tailcap is OK, it was working till the previous night. O ring is not blocking it. Tried another battery too, same result.

 

[Lintush]

Is there any circuit in the tail cap or it is just spring contact?

 

[SteveCA]

My dad's light was shipped with a charger and tail cap that look just like the pics posted above and it has all the same problems.

I am on my second failed s30r but learned something very interesting last night. I was getting ready to return it but decided to push in the small round part on the tail cap with my finger nail and voila, the light reset and is working like new again.

I have no idea how long it will continue to work but it works. Prior to this, the light would only come on in the dimmest setting. When I replaced the battery, it would come on brighter but would cycle and then die with the red light indicator on. For now, it seems to have reset the tail cap. Hopefully this is a long term fix. Its worth a try before sending it in. I love this light when it is working but it has failed twice now so time will tell.

 

[WarRaven]

I am on my second failed s30r but learned something very interesting last night. I was getting ready to return it but decided to push in the small round part on the tail cap with my finger nail and voila, the light reset and is working like new again.

I have no idea how long it will continue to work but it works. Prior to this, the light would only come on in the dimmest setting. When I replaced the battery, it would come on brighter but would cycle and then die with the red light indicator on. For now, it seems to have reset the tail cap. Hopefully this is a long term fix. Its worth a try before sending it in. I love this light when it is working but it has failed twice now so time will tell.

That's the problem across the board with the S Series.
Seems the new lights have totally changed.

The fix is for the first generation of the S Series, a tail cap and charger.
Charge base center pin is sprung on new updated charger and tail cap center is solid. From what I've read and gathered.

Sometimes putting light on and off charger quickly resettles tail cap center pin, sometimes it don't.

 

[zipplet]

I had a replacement tailcap shipped to me for my S30R. It worked well initially, but started to develop charging problems recently. I did not even get the light wet so I was rather disappointed. However I was able to fix the problem. I will try my best to describe what I did here, but please if you do this you do this at your own risk and I accept no responsibility for a damaged light.

How does the tailcap contact function?

The tailcap contains a spring loaded contact. When the light is not on the dock, the spring pushes the contact closed to allow current to flow between the centre terminal (battery negative) and the outside wall of the tailcap, completing the circuit. When the light is placed on the dock, the contact is broken and the charger dock is inserted in series in the circuit with the battery and the light. Some magic in the lights driver allows charging to commence.

Why are there so many problems with the tailcap?

The spring loaded contact is comprised of a small spring (that is connected to battery negative) with a small metal button on the end. This metal button is pressed against the bottom of the tailcap when the light is not docked by the spring. The design has a few problems:

• Water ingress is not very well prevented. Water can easily get past the metal button and will sit inside the bottom of the tailcap until you completely disassemble it. However, assuming your tailcap is in good condition (no loose parts) there is a rubber seal between the moving contact parts and the rest of the tailcap which should prevent water getting further into the light.
• The tailcap button is made of a different metal (probably brass but I am not sure) to the tailcap (aluminium). It may be possible for galvanic corrosion to occur.
• Dust/lint can work its way in between the metal button and the tailcap base causing resistance to increase.
• On my tailcap, the metal was insufficiently clean from the factory causing a higher resistance.

Is there anything I can do to make my light work better?

YES! You need a few things:

• Quality lubricant that will not impair electrical contact or cause corrosion, and is safe on metals, plastic and rubber. I used nyogel.
• 2 screwdrivers or a pair of tweezers to unscrew the retaining ring
• Rags / kitchen paper for cleaning
• Isopropyl alcohol
• Something sharp to scrape away corrosion if required (a small flat blade screwdriver will work just fine)

Step by step this is what I did:

• Start by cleaning your tailcap as best as you possibly can without disassembling it, to avoid getting more dirt into the contacts.
• From now, work over a clean area where you can catch/find small parts as the metal button may get lost / fly out!
• Unscrew the retaining ring (anticlockwise)
• Mind that the small metal button is loose and will fall out - carefully pull out the PCB (which has the battery spring attached to it) - directly upwards. It may feel a bit odd/stuck because there is a magnet in the tailcap and it will attract parts of the PCB towards it as you try to remove it.
• Look for the metal button which may have dropped onto your safe workspace and retrieve it
• You should have the tailcap, a retaining ring, the PCB (with a spring on either side), and a small metal button.
• Clean everything with isopropyl alcohol and dry thoroughly. Pay extra attention to the metal button (including the inner side where the spring touches it) and the area the button pushes into on the bottom of the tailcap.
• Inspect the metal button carefully for any discolouring of the metal. If any is found, clean it up.
• Take your lubricant (again I highly recommend nyogel) and apply to the following areas: the back of the metal button (spring contact), the inner lip of the bottom of the tailcap (other side of the button contact), and around the rubber seal on the PCB (for water resistance). This helps inhibit corrosion and will protect the contacts. It can attract dirt too, so this is a matter of opinion.
• The tricky part: you need to get the PCB back in with the button contact in place. I did this by balancing the button contact on the small spring, then lowering the tailcap on from above. It will try to pull to the side due to the magnet but take your time and it will go back together nicely.
• Screw down the retaining ring just enough to barely apply pressure to the PCB.
• Now, check the metal contact button. Push it in a few times and wipe out any excess nyogel you can see. A toothpick helps!
• Finally tighten down the retaining ring the rest of the way.
• Relube your light and put it back together

I did this procedure a couple of weeks ago, and my light is still working perfectly. If people need pictures, let me know

I don't think this light should ever be immersed in water despite the claim on the packaging. Light rain should be OK if you apply something like nyogel (to help prevent water working its way inside past the metal button).

 

[SteveCA]

I am on my second failed s30r but learned something very interesting last night. I was getting ready to return it but decided to push in the small round part on the tail cap with my finger nail and voila, the light reset and is working like new again.

I have no idea how long it will continue to work but it works. Prior to this, the light would only come on in the dimmest setting. When I replaced the battery, it would come on brighter but would cycle and then die with the red light indicator on. For now, it seems to have reset the tail cap. Hopefully this is a long term fix. Its worth a try before sending it in. I love this light when it is working but it has failed twice now so time will tell.

Interesting timing. I just recieved an email from olight with the following message. They are planning to send out replacement caps soon but added this at the end of the email:

Temporary fix: There is a button connector at the end of the tailcap. You can use a pen or a screwdriver to push in and move the connector around. This usually gets the light working again. Thank you.
​

 

[SteveCA]

That's the problem across the board with the S Series.
Seems the new lights have totally changed.

The fix is for the first generation of the S Series, a tail cap and charger.
Charge base center pin is sprung on new updated charger and tail cap center is solid. From what I've read and gathered.

Sometimes putting light on and off charger quickly resettles tail cap center pin, sometimes it don't.

I have never used the supplied recharger and dont have a need for it as I have a number of lithium ion chargers that do a better job. it sounds like the charger pushes in the little button and accomplishes the same thing some of the time.

 

[WarRaven]

I have never used the supplied recharger and dont have a need for it as I have a number of lithium ion chargers that do a better job. it sounds like the charger pushes in the little button and accomplishes the same thing some of the time.

Yeah the pin gets dislodged during carry, spec of dirt gets in-between connections and no joy.

The new base has a spring loaded pin and the tail cap pin is solid from what I've gathered and been parroting.

No word publicly about S10R or S20R, just the S30R is being addressed on forums. Even though they all suffer same problem. Word was in a email they'd be on it but... All quiet still.
I Charge outside light myself but bought for ease of use when in a hurry.

 

[JJLXL]

Got another email yesterday. It said:

"Hello,

We are about to start sending out the replacement lights for the defective S30R's. The version 2 of the S30R has an all new circuitry and charging design. We will be sending an email to each customer with a tracking number once they are sent.

Please send me the Serial Number of your S30R for documentation purposes. Thank you for your help.

- Olight Support"

 

[Raysbeam]

Some of you may have experienced problems with the S30R baton flashlight. We have tested the S30R extensively and have found out that some tailcaps have an electrical resistance that is too high and is causing issues with charging and general operation. We hope to begin shipping out the upgraded model at the beginning of May and will also have tailcaps to replace those with issues at that time. If your S30R has any issues, please do not hesitate to reach out to us for help. We are happy to repair the lights that have been sold. Thank you for your cooperation and understanding.

- Olight Support

Hello,is it true Olight is sending their customers that own a defective S30R the new S30R II as replacement?

 

[Raysbeam]

I received the same email from olight yesterday about shipping customers the new S30R II, I'm very excited to receive the new light.

 

[WarRaven]

Go Olight go!
That'd be pretty stellar CS!

 

[subwoofer]

A question to Olight, are the S10R, S15R and S20R also going to move to the new design where the tailcap has only fixed parts and the charger has a sprung pin? It seems odd that only the S30R has had an issue.

 

[JJLXL]

As cool as that would be, I don't think we're getting an entirely new light. The rep I talked to on the phone in min-June said it was a newly designed tail cap and charger.