Sold/Expired SALE: JM-PhD-D1 PWM Hotwire Regulator

[LumenHound]

I'll take 2 please.

#1
output voltage set to 20.6
cut off set to 16.2

#2
output voltage set to 16.5
cut off set to 11.7

Shoot me a PM with shipping costs to Toronto and I'll PayPal the funds instantly.
I'll PM you my address so you can enter it into the postage calculator at USPS.com

 

[CancerLad]

I will take two drivers

Set voltage 7.2V, cutoff voltage 6.0V for a Philips 5761.
Set voltage 13.8V, cutoff voltage 12.0V for an Osram 64625.

These are my guesses from my gleanings of LuxLuthor's writings. I have not built any lights with these bulbs yet.

Total $87.00. PayPal Sent!

Thanks for making this happen. I really kick myself for not jumping on the JSS buys, and this is way to cool not to grab.

 

[cnjl3]

I chose set voltage 12.6V for double trouble '625 and WA-1166.
'625 will draw 9.3amps
WA-1166 will draw 2.05amps
Amps from LL's thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/179748

For those placing orders could you put down your aplication so the less technically minded readers (ie myself), can get an idea of settings? See what Alan B did in the first reply.

+1 on the photobucket.com

Where do you folks host your pictures?

 

[LuxLuthor]

Jimmy, lock me in for 6 please. I can wait to see how hard it is to program (with software code setup), vs. giving you a list. This is in addition to any test units. Send payment ($250) now?

 

[JimmyM]

Jimmy, lock me in for 6 please. I can wait to see how hard it is to program (with software code setup), vs. giving you a list. This is in addition to any test units. Send payment ($250) now?

Sure. Send it along.
Steps for setting the voltages.
Set low voltage point first.
1) Turn voltage adjust pot counter-clockwise several turns (output adjusts ~4V per turn)
2) Set power supply to low voltage point voltage.
3) If output is steady... Turn screw clockwise until output pulses
3a) If output is pulsing... Turn screw counter clockwise until pulsing stops.

 

[leukos]

Congratulations, JimmyM on bringing such a fantastic product to market! Very reasonably priced for such a quality product!

 

[JimmyM]

Congratulations, JimmyM on bringing such a fantastic product to market! Very reasonably priced for such a quality product!

Thanks, I appreciate it. It was a lot of work. If it weren't for the input of many (Especially AlanB) none of the forthcoming Microcontroller/PWM based regulation solutions would have come to fruition any time soon. I had to learn about microcontrollers and C programming.
I've got 70 boards built so far. 10 at a time. I'm very confident in reflowing the tiny 20QFN package now. It's 4mm x 4mm, 5 pins per side with no leads.
I'll be basing most of my furture work on this chip. With the possible exception of the X1. It will have a lot more features and require more pins, but, who knows.

 

[JimmyM]

AlanB and niner SHIPPED 5/14

I'll be setting the other orders tonight.

I'll be updating the top post to clarify what is required for programming.
You DO NOT NEED a computer and programmer to use this board.

 

[niner]

Thanks Jim. I guess I should see them tomorrow. I could just drive over there and pick it up

Well, actually, I'm waiting for Kiu socket to show up, so there's not much I can do right the way.

 

[JimmyM]

Thanks Jim. I guess I should see them tomorrow. I could just drive over there and pick it up

Well, actually, I'm waiting for Kiu socket to show up, so there's not much I can do right the way.

Yeah, really. I noticed in your address how close you are.
LuxLuthor is just down the road from me too. Small world.

 

[JimmyM]

Starlight, cnjl3, william lafferty, CancerLad, LumenHound, BulletBob
SHipped 5/14/09

 

[Roland]

I will start with buying one.

Set voltage 7.2V, cutoff voltage 6.6V for a Philips 5761.

I will wait for your quote on shipping to the netherlands (europe).

 

[LuxLuthor]

Jimmy, just for the heck of it, how about you set one of them for comparison and I'll see how close I get setting another on my own.

I'll push the very first Hotwire I ever got here on CPF up a bit from Alan's more sensible setting of 10.8V, namely the venerable FiveMega Mag85 from this link.

For others benefit, this is a light using 3s3p of 17500 cells. Maximum cell voltage is about 4.15 x 3 = 12.45V. I don't want them to drain lower than 3.3V x 3 = 9.9V (There will be some variability from cell to cell, so this gives me a buffer so they don't go below 3.0V)

Here is the chart of the 1185 bulb, and you can see that much above 11.5V the bulb won't last long. So I'll ask Jimmy to set one up for what I am going to call Vbulb (what I want delivered to the bulb) & Vlow as the battery voltage where light draining "shuts off" to protect them. So please set one for:

Vbulb - 11.5V
Vlow - 9.9V
​

Jimmy, I think I already know the answer to this, but as the batteries drain down to a combined voltage lower than regulated 11.5V, this reverts to a "direct drive" (& dimming of bulb output) down to 9.9V where further shutoff pulsing will occur?

 

[LuxLuthor]

O.K. Jim. I think I've got it figured out.

I want to start out with one driver.

Will be running 8 x 18650 cells powering a 12 v 35 w Hikari bulb.

Max voltage for the bulb is 22.5 (Lux Luthor's chart), so set driver at 22.5 max.

EDIT
Min voltage for the pack should be 24v (this would be discharging each cell to 3 v. I assume this is safe since protection kicks in at 2.5 v)

William, keep in mind that if you pick the flash point from my testing, the bulb may flash very quickly (if not immediately on first run), because my setup also was using a manual dial turning "soft starting" ramp up, and there is always some variation from bulb to bulb in flash point (I average two bulb readings in my posts at every voltage point)--obviously some brands have higher QA consistency like WA & Osram. I would recommend you maybe start at 20 or 20.5V in this example.

Jimmy, will the measured VRMS (or Vbulb as I referred to it above) in a completely setup light be taking into account all of the entire resistance throughout the circuit?

When you mentioned about setting voltage by having a bulb in socket as a resistor, wouldn't it need to be a bulb that would withstand the voltage range you are setting it at? I.E. -- putting a 6V (5761) bulb when you are setting voltage to 21.0 Vrms would flash that bulb, correct? Also, with measurements being made touching bulb bipins legs there is the light blindness issue. So just wondering if the use of 5W 1K Ohm resistor would be the better choice?

 

[JimmyM]

Jimmy, just for the heck of it, how about you set one of them for comparison and I'll see how close I get setting another on my own.

I'll push the very first Hotwire I ever got here on CPF up a bit from Alan's more sensible setting of 10.8V, namely the venerable FiveMega Mag85 from this link.

For others benefit, this is a light using 3s3p of 17500 cells. Maximum cell voltage is about 4.15 x 3 = 12.45V. I don't want them to drain lower than 3.3V x 3 = 9.9V (There will be some variability from cell to cell, so this gives me a buffer so they don't go below 3.0V)

Here is the chart of the 1185 bulb, and you can see that much above 11.5V the bulb won't last long. So I'll ask Jimmy to set one up for what I am going to call Vbulb (what I want delivered to the bulb) & Vlow as the battery voltage where light draining "shuts off" to protect them. So please set one for:

Vbulb - 11.5V
Vlow - 9.9V
​

Jimmy, I think I already know the answer to this, but as the batteries drain down to a combined voltage lower than regulated 11.5V, this reverts to a "direct drive" (& dimming of bulb output) down to 9.9V where further shutoff pulsing will occur?

You are correct. Once the battery voltage drops below the Vbulb, it is in direct drive mode. Once it hits Vlow it will begin pulsing between 70 and 50% Vbulb.

 

[JimmyM]

Jimmy, will the measured VRMS (or Vbulb as I referred to it above) in a completely setup light be taking into account all of the entire resistance throughout the circuit?

When you mentioned about setting voltage by having a bulb in socket as a resistor, wouldn't it need to be a bulb that would withstand the voltage range you are setting it at? I.E. -- putting a 6V (5761) bulb when you are setting voltage to 21.0 Vrms would flash that bulb, correct? Also, with measurements being made touching bulb bipins legs there is the light blindness issue. So just wondering if the use of 5W 1K Ohm resistor would be the better choice?

The Micropricessor measures the battery voltage between the control voltage input (From VBat+) and the VBat- connection. There is very little current flowing in the control voltage wire (A few mA) , so losses there are miniscule. The VBat- connection has high current flowing through it. So a heavy connection from the VBat- connection to the switch grub screw is a good idea. In any case. It can't compensate for losses in the wire between the VBat+ and the socket, or for losses in the FET and FET to bulb wire. It will compensate for losses in the battery connections, spring resistance, and VBat- wire. So If you want to be VERY exact in your settings, you would set it using the bulb you intend to use. To avoid blowing the bulb, turn both pots several turns counter-clockwise, then put the bulb in and power it up. Then turn the Vbulb pot (The one on the left) clockwise to increase voltage until you have the reading you want. For the most part, however, a power resistor is the best choice to avoid blindness, burns, or any potential flying glass if the bulb blows.

 

[LuxLuthor]

The Micropricessor measures the battery voltage between the control voltage input (From VBat+) and the VBat- connection. There is very little current flowing in the control voltage wire (A few mA) , so losses there are miniscule. The VBat- connection has high current flowing through it. So a heavy connection from the VBat- connection to the switch grub screw is a good idea.

In any case. It can't compensate for losses in the wire between the VBat+ and the socket, or for losses in the FET and FET to bulb wire. It will compensate for losses in the battery connections, spring resistance, and VBat- wire.

So If you want to be VERY exact in your settings, you would set it using the bulb you intend to use. To avoid blowing the bulb, turn both pots several turns counter-clockwise, then put the bulb in and power it up. Then turn the Vbulb pot (The one on the left) clockwise to increase voltage until you have the reading you want. For the most part, however, a power resistor is the best choice to avoid blindness, burns, or any potential flying glass if the bulb blows.

Jimmy, thanks for answers. Hopefully these will help others and not be seen as clogging up your sales thread. I think I mostly have it, but couple more questions. Also, despite the source, there are some useful photos still here on setting up this driver in a manner similar to hotdriver (check 3 "DIY" links at top).

1) The reason I asked if Vrms measurements included all resistance was because then people could take the results right off my destructive testing thread in which my bipin testbed only has 19 mOhms.

I'm guessing the quoted bold section you mentioned above would only amount to a few milliohms, so essentially it sounds like there would be good correlation between my destructive chart readings and the Vrms at bipins?
​

2) It can be difficult to reach the bulb legs with DMM probes (espcially with smaller WA G-4 bulbs), also to see what you are doing with the blinding light, and significant heat issues (especially with higher watt bulbs) at maximum Vbulb settings. I melted the plastic trying to use my Fluke Pincers with them attached to bipins. :mecry:

Assuming a fully assembled JM-PhD-D1 on top of Mag switch, mounted inside a Maglite:

a) Is it correct to be taking the Vrms readings from touching resistor/bulb legs going into the KIU bipin holder?

b) Do we need to turn off switch after taking reading, then make adjustment on POT through KIU base hole? I'm not sure what would happen if screwdriver touched side of hole in KIU while adjusting POT if switch power is on, or if there is any problem adjusting POT with power active.

c) Is there any voltage setting range (high or low voltage applications) where the 5W 1K Ohm resistor would not work adequately? It seems that a resistor has only advantages of avoiding bright light, heat, potentially flashing bulb, and Fluke Pincers could be safely used.
​

 

[Bimmerboy]

Jimmy, just for the heck of it, how about you set one of them for comparison and I'll see how close I get setting another on my own.

I'll ask Jimmy to set one up for what I am going to call Vbulb (what I want delivered to the bulb)

Vbulb - 11.5V

This could provide some extremely useful information, especially since the testing will involve battery drive! I've been in a quandry regarding what to ask Jimmy to set Vbulb at, considering so many variables. It'd suck to think I'm all set to go with 11.1 - 11.2V output to an 1185, only to find it dimmer than direct driving 9 X Eneloop on a full charge.

Any chance you might have reason to also test a 623 running 5 X IMR 26500's @ 15.3 Vbulb, or thereabouts? Hoping it's equal to a direct drive 15.6V NiMH 2/3A pack.

Jimmy - Congrats on this achievement! I'll be ordering two as soon as I figure out what settings to ask for.

 

[JimmyM]

I'm guessing the quoted bold section you mentioned above would only amount to a few milliohms, so essentially it sounds like there would be good correlation between my destructive chart readings and the Vrms at bipins?​

If anything, the voltage would be lower at the bulb if you set it using a resistor. It would be lower by the losses caused by the resistance in the bulb pin contacts and the bulb socket wires. Most likely a very small amount.
​

a) Is it correct to be taking the Vrms readings from touching resistor/bulb legs going into the KIU bipin holder?

b) Do we need to turn off switch after taking reading, then make adjustment on POT through KIU base hole? I'm not sure what would happen if screwdriver touched side of hole in KIU while adjusting POT if switch power is on, or if there is any problem adjusting POT with power active.

c) Is there any voltage setting range (high or low voltage applications) where the 5W 1K Ohm resistor would not work adequately? It seems that a resistor has only advantages of avoiding bright light, heat, potentially flashing bulb, and Fluke Pincers could be safely used.
​

a) Yes. That's the best place.
b) Operationally, you should leave the power on. The regulator reads the pots continuously, so voltage will change as you turn the pots. I'll do some testing regarding the "shorting" issue.
c) Even at the maximum voltage of 40V, a 1K resistor will only have to dissipate 1.6W of power. So you should be fine. You could even use a 500 Ohm, 5W resistor.

 

[donn_]

I'm not sure what would happen if screwdriver touched side of hole in KIU while adjusting POT if switch power is on

Getcha some ceramic-bladed screwdrivers. Non-conductive and non-magnetic.