SHTF long term/never going back flashlight

[cland72]

Here's something I had forgotten:
Surefire 6P
Malkoff M61 drop in
A19 single cell extender
CR123 dummy cell
Oveready battery sleeve to convert 3x123 to 2xAA

You can run a Malkoff on 1, 2, or 3 CR123s (for varying brightness and runtime), and in a pinch you can run 2xAA batteries with the extender and battery sleevewhich will give you multi fuel capabilities (albeit, at a very reduced output).

 

[yoyoman]

The Malkoff dropins and Peaks are great for scavenging or battery vampire lights. I have a Peak 123 Logan SS with a momentary switch and no QTC and a M31 L that I use for battery vampires for CR123 cells harvested from a Malkoff Hound Dog (MD3 body). I would assume that the AA versions of the Peak and MDC AA would provide the same function. You can start with a full AA Cell and suck it dry. A 2xAA would not be as reliable with scavenged cells, but if you start with 2 full AA cells (SF 9P or 6P with extender) it would give you light for a long time. The Malkof M61 or M31 LLL will provide light for a looong time.

 

[jabe1]

Listen to Archimedes and yoyoman...

Get the Peak Logan 17500, and the spacer kit. Secondly, cleand72 has the other primo SHTF light mentioned.
Two is one and one is none. Get both.

both of my BOBs have Peaks in them, and a few extra cells in case I can't scavenge quickly enough. One light with one cell is poor planning.

 

[Timothybil]

I too vote for the Nitecore, but the EA41 instead of the TM26. I have had a TM11 almost since they first came out (I missed all the version folderol), and both EA4s and an EA41. I have not had a single problem with any of the four. The EA41 will do 100 hrs in one lumen mode, is small enough to not be cumbersome on your belt, and still has the modes to be useful in a lot of different situations. I also vote for the NiMH cells, with maybe a set of lithium primaries as 'emergency' fallbacks. I plan on having 15 Ah and 10 Ah battery packs along, and recharging them from solar. There are several highly rated rugged portable solar panels available if one is willing to spend the money. The only thing I haven't decided is whether to get a DC/DC converter to run my Intellicharger, which would require having 12v available, or buying one or two of the single cell USB chargers and taking forever to recharge all the cells. (That is if I can find one that does AA. All the ones I have seen only do 18650)

 

[parametrek]

Weird that you guys are even considering CR123A an option. Let's say you decide to vanish into the outback and cut all ties to civilization. You want to bring a lifetime supply of CR123A with you. Let's say 2000 of them. That'll be 34 kilograms of batteries. Oh, and they'll all be dead in a decade anyway. So much for a lifetime supply.

Rechargables are the only option. Either Eneloops (for the AA people) or LiFePO4 (for the 18650 people). Both of these chemistries are good for at least 2000 recharges. A pair will last 35 years if you recharge them every week! Of course you still need a quality solar charger...

 

[DoctorSolo]

My 6P with a Malkoff Low output drop-in runs a really long time. If you went with a LL drop-in you will get 15 hours of runtime with some still pretty decent output. It's nice to think about AAs and their commonality with everything(able to scavenge from the wife's vibrator and whatnot), but honestly CR123s have a really good shelf life and power density. Just stock up on CR123s and worry about other stuff IMO...

Weird that you guys are even considering CR123A an option. Let's say you decide to vanish into the outback and cut all ties to civilization. You want to bring a lifetime supply of CR123A with you. Let's say 2000 of them. That'll be 34 kilograms of batteries. Oh, and they'll all be dead in a decade anyway. So much for a lifetime supply.

Well, speaking for myself I would sure never do that, but in bizarro world you might have a point.

 

[Taz80]

Rechargeable batteries might be good for 2000 charges but its like ANSI run times, once you get to 1500 charges your going to be down to 20 or 25%. Also lithium primary's will most likely out last the rechargeable batteries, as they also degrade even when not in use. So after 15 years or so the options are going to be oil lamps, candles or fire on a stick.

 

[CMAG]

ZebraLight SC80 is another option AA and cr123.

 

[parametrek]

Well, speaking for myself I would sure never do that, but in bizarro world you might have a point.

The topic said "long term/never going back." Figured it should be taken literally

Rechargeable batteries might be good for 2000 charges but its like ANSI run times, once you get to 1500 charges your going to be down to 20 or 25%.

Usually the theshold for these things is 50%. ANSI FL1 is very unusual, no other datasheet uses 10% as the cutoff. And in the old eneloops thread people with original eneloops found they were still going strong after 6 years of use. I found a couple 15 year old NiMH from Radio Shack in the back of a drawer last week. After a refresh in the Lacrosse three of them were at 75% original capacity and the fourth was at 25% capacity.

 

[ForrestChump]

Weird that you guys are even considering CR123A an option. Let's say you decide to vanish into the outback and cut all ties to civilization. You want to bring a lifetime supply of CR123A with you. Let's say 2000 of them. That'll be 34 kilograms of batteries. Oh, and they'll all be dead in a decade anyway. So much for a lifetime supply.

Rechargables are the only option. Either Eneloops (for the AA people) or LiFePO4 (for the 18650 people). Both of these chemistries are good for at least 2000 recharges. A pair will last 35 years if you recharge them every week! Of course you still need a quality solar charger...

Is a charging system going to hold out for 10 years in the buck wild? 5 years? Id say 3years tops if everything worked perfectly and you treated it with kit gloves. Im not talking 2000, 24-72 will do you 10 years. Nothing to break.

At any rate, 10 years out in the boonies running around I ain't going to be worried about a flashlight, I'd probably look like Tom Hans in Castaway with a groin cloth, fire on a stick and talking to a volley ball........


"Willllssooon!"

 

[spamda]

damn i wasn't expecting to get all of these replies haha thank you. half of this stuff i don't understand, as i am googling most of the flashlight models/batteries.

 

[spamda]

what kind of solar charger would you guys suggest? going to get the quark definitely. i don't know if i should get 2 of the same models or get one quark and another brand. probably going to go with the rechargeable battery option as well. if something were to happen, and i had to scavenge around for batteries i do not want to get in a life and death situation over batteries lol

 

[Redhat703]

I have the Malkoff MD3 with hi-low ring + M61WLL. The battery choices are endless
For SHTF, I use Eneloop AAs + Goal Zero solar charger if my batteries run out.

 

[ForrestChump]

I have the Malkoff MD3 with hi-low ring + M61WLL. The battery choices are endless
For SHTF, I use Eneloop AAs + Goal Zero solar charger if my batteries run out.

I was thinking of your post as I was responding but was just to lazy to search at the time. You had this in Pelican case when you introduced it in a new thread correct? Contradicting myself a bit from earlier post this is a pretty sweet setup. If I was going to go solar (still not) I would get a few lightweight quality chargers and the solar panel from a company called Suntactics. Its made in the usa, has a 5 year warranty and appears super solid. Its a really nice panel these guys make, I would definitely prefer it over any other solar panel.

 

[kaichu dento]

im looking for a light that has fairly decent lumen output, high lifespan, and able to run on regular batteries. more people will have regular batteries laying around than those higher powered ones.

anyone have any answers/suggestions, criticism, similar interests?

Older model Ra Clicky, if you can track down a 2xAA tube for it. The newer HDS lights will do great runtimes at lower levels and can go all the way down to .02, .07 or .08 lumens for incredible runtimes, but it's the older Ra lights that had the greatest runtimes, and again, they're no one trick pony, as you still then have your other three modes for when you actually need more light too.

Not to mention that as a light of last resort, a bulletproof light designed by Henry could easily be one of the most comforting to find yourself holding onto.

 

[ForrestChump]

what kind of solar charger would you guys suggest? going to get the quark definitely. i don't know if i should get 2 of the same models or get one quark and another brand. probably going to go with the rechargeable battery option as well. if something were to happen, and i had to scavenge around for batteries i do not want to get in a life and death situation over batteries lol

SUNTACTICS

They aren't cheap but if I had to pick one, this would be it. They are solid. Made in USA.

Get 2 of the same model Quarks so you can swap parts in the event of a failure. Single cell would be best for long term.

 

[ForrestChump]

damn i wasn't expecting to get all of these replies haha thank you. half of this stuff i don't understand, as i am googling most of the flashlight models/batteries.

Yeah, we have a habit of doing that.

 

[jabe1]

The beauty of the quarks is that you can use different heads and bodies, depending on the rated voltage of the head. The 1xAA can also use a 2xAA or a CR123 body. I would get the 1xAA and a second body. Then get a different light entirely. There are a few threads on SHTF lights. Do a bit more reading, as there are some very experienced people on this forum.

 

[reppans]

what kind of solar charger would you guys suggest? going to get the quark definitely. i don't know if i should get 2 of the same models or get one quark and another brand. probably going to go with the rechargeable battery option as well. if something were to happen, and i had to scavenge around for batteries i do not want to get in a life and death situation over batteries lol

I'd get two Quarks but vary the components so you can lego/mix match different configs - flooder/thrower heads, 1AA/2AA tubes (CR123/16650 tubes if you want to go there), and reverse/forward clickies. A full QP2A-X light (comes with 2AA tube and reverse clicky), plus the accessories: QB2A head, 1AA tube, and forward clicky will get you there. You'll have two different purpose lights that can freely Lego parts and back each other up.

Eneloops with the solar chargers recommended in post 3 are good. The 6 panel/4AA Powerfilm and Goal Zero Guide 10 plus have the same surface area, but the former uses thin film panels which are half as efficient as the latter's monocrystalline panels - they will fully charge 2/4 cells (respectively) in ~4 hrs (10-2 sun). On the flip side, thin film is twice as efficient in imperfect light, and about a quarter the size and weight. The GZ has 12V and 5V USB options though.

Good luck.

 

[MMD]

How about a Zebralight H52w. The angled head is nice for hands free work and it works fine as a handheld. I Like that it takes typical AA batteries but also runs on 14500 Li-ion. I know mine have taken a beating in my EDC. Not sure about "never coming back"

Light Output (runtimes)
High: H1 280 Lm (0.9 hrs) or H2 172 Lm (1.7 hrs) / 108 Lm (3 hrs)
Medium: M1 50 Lm (7.5 hrs) or M2 25 Lm (12 hrs) / 12 Lm (27 hrs)
Low: L1 2.7 Lm (4 days) or L2 0.34 Lm (3 weeks) / 0.06 Lm (2 months) / 0.01 Lm (3 months)
Beacon Strobe Mode: 4Hz Strobe at H1 / 19Hz Strobe at H1

Light output are ANSI out the front (OTF) values. Runtimes tested (and parasitic drain estimated) using Sanyo 2000mAh Eneloop AA batteries. Light output with 14500 batteries are the same except that the H1 is 500Lm for the first minute and then step down to 280Lm.