Spartanian II, new UI. [video added] One Ring Controls All. 16340 mini size
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neoseikan
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Hi, Elakazam.
I am waiting for the express man.
When the reviewers get the samples, and post their reviews here,
I will go to CPFmarket.
neoseikan
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The first batch of samples sent today.
itch808
Newly Enlightened
Looks interesting, I wonder how much pricing will be....
ernsanada
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neoseikan
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Great.
Any question about this light is welcome.
Any question about this light is welcome.
NetGod3Com
Newly Enlightened
Same questions that has been asked numerous times..... Expected pricing and street date.
neoseikan
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Sorry, the pre-order has not begun.
When it's OK, there will be a thread about Spartanian II at CPFmarket.
You can list your wishes about this light. What we could do to make it better.
martonic
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Hi Neo,
It is important to start at a high setting and then reduce the level while the light stays on.
It is also important to start at a low setting and increase the level while the light is on.
It is also important to reduce to a low setting, and then turn the light off without increasing the level to do so.
I like the following concept:
When the light is off:
Twist right to turn on at the highest level. Hold < 2 seconds for momentary, or hold for > 2 seconds to make the light stay on.
Twist left to turn on at the lowest level. Hold < 2 seconds for momentary, or hold for > 2 seconds to make the light stay on.
When the light is on:
Twist right to increase the level (twist right and hold for ramping up).
Twist left to decrease the level and/or turn the light off (twist left and hold for ramping down to zero).
Use tailcap lockout to memorize the current level. Release the tailcap to turn the light off at the current level. Engage the tailcap to turn the light on again - still at the last-used level.
About 10 levels might be ideal - each one double the current of the last. That gives a dynamic range of 1028 to 1, or from about .7 ma to 700 ma.
For me, this would be perfect. Low to the left, high to the right. Simple!
Cheers!
It is important to start at a high setting and then reduce the level while the light stays on.
It is also important to start at a low setting and increase the level while the light is on.
It is also important to reduce to a low setting, and then turn the light off without increasing the level to do so.
I like the following concept:
When the light is off:
Twist right to turn on at the highest level. Hold < 2 seconds for momentary, or hold for > 2 seconds to make the light stay on.
Twist left to turn on at the lowest level. Hold < 2 seconds for momentary, or hold for > 2 seconds to make the light stay on.
When the light is on:
Twist right to increase the level (twist right and hold for ramping up).
Twist left to decrease the level and/or turn the light off (twist left and hold for ramping down to zero).
Use tailcap lockout to memorize the current level. Release the tailcap to turn the light off at the current level. Engage the tailcap to turn the light on again - still at the last-used level.
About 10 levels might be ideal - each one double the current of the last. That gives a dynamic range of 1028 to 1, or from about .7 ma to 700 ma.
For me, this would be perfect. Low to the left, high to the right. Simple!
Cheers!
neoseikan
Enlightened
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2006
- Messages
- 611
Thank you! martonic.
It is important to start at a high setting and then reduce the level while the light stays on.
It is also important to start at a low setting and increase the level while the light is on.
When the light is off:
Twist right to turn on at the highest level. Hold < 2 seconds for momentary, or hold for > 2 seconds to make the light stay on.
Twist right to increase the level (twist right and hold for ramping up).
Twist left to decrease the level and/or turn the light off (twist left and hold for ramping down to zero).
For me, this would be perfect. Low to the left, high to the right. Simple!
Thank you for your advice!
NEOSEIKAN
It is important to start at a high setting and then reduce the level while the light stays on.
It is also important to start at a low setting and increase the level while the light is on.
They exist. For example, you can set the left to the highest level, and the right to the lowest level, as I did.
It is also important to reduce to a low setting, and then turn the light off without increasing the level to do so.
Yes. It also exist. When I want to turn the light OFF, right and hold won't increase the brightness.
I like the following concept:
When the light is off:
Twist right to turn on at the highest level. Hold < 2 seconds for momentary, or hold for > 2 seconds to make the light stay on.
Yes. It's what S2 can do now. Any level.
Twist left to turn on at the lowest level. Hold < 2 seconds for momentary, or hold for > 2 seconds to make the light stay on.
Yes. S2 can do it. But at left, the time is about 5 seconds, not 2 seconds.
Users could choose left:5 & right:2 or right:5 & left:2.
When the light is on:Users could choose left:5 & right:2 or right:5 & left:2.
Twist right to increase the level (twist right and hold for ramping up).
Twist left to decrease the level and/or turn the light off (twist left and hold for ramping down to zero).
We want to keep the voltage gauge function, so there is a bit difficulty to add ramping up/down.
Use tailcap lockout to memorize the current level. Release the tailcap to turn the light off at the current level. Engage the tailcap to turn the light on again - still at the last-used level.
Yes. You can set both the left and right turn.
About 10 levels might be ideal - each one double the current of the last. That gives a dynamic range of 1028 to 1, or from about .7 ma to 700 ma.
For me, this would be perfect. Low to the left, high to the right. Simple!
Thank you for your advice!
NEOSEIKAN
Last edited:
Hi martonic,
What you expect is EXACTLY what the Spartanian 2 is, except hold right and left when the light is on. Now when the light is on, hold right for 2 seconds will shutdown the light, and hold left for 2 seconds will show how much energy in the battery. We didn't implement ramping up/down because now Spartanian 2 have two preset level and we think it may be enough for daily use. Though we are going to consider your advice seriously, we have to think about how to perform an energy(voltage) indication, or discard it.
Now Spartanian2 have 13 levels, and the lowest 3 levels is ultra low level, from 0.4mA to 12mA. The 4th level is 50mA. The levels are exponential, not double the current, but about 1.5 times.
Thank you for your advice and we will seriously consider over it.
Cheers!
Last edited:
karlthev
Flashlight Enthusiast
When I received the Spartanian II for testing last Friday, what I initially noticed was the two-tone color and the head—front of the light which set it aside from other lights I have of similar size and configuration such as the HDS EDC, Novatac, Arc4+s—and the rather thin, wasp-waist of the body between the head and the tail. This "waist" is provides a near perfect grip when holding and using this fine light. This light is a variation of a "twisty" design in that it turns on and off by rotating a 7/8" wide ring located behind the head of the light either to the left or the right for two user pre-set levels or for adjusting the light intensity to thirteen different levels.
The best way to approach operation of this light (which has a brand new UI) is to imagine the light having two "sides". Side "A" is accessed by twisting the spring-loaded front ring to the left while side "B" is accessed by twisting the ring to the right.
To gain momentary illumination of either "side" the ring is twisted to the "stop" (end of twisting rotation) in the direction of the "side" and the light illuminates. Twisting and holding the ring to the right for approximately 1 second will turn the light on and remain on until a separate action is taken. The same interface is true for the left side with the exception of the fact that the ring must be held for at least 5 seconds after twisting to the left in order for the light to remain on. In either direction, you know the light will remain on by a slight flicker in the light. The light is turned off (either "side") by twisting the ring to the right and holding it there for about the one second period.
Various light levels (right or left "side") may be pre-set for ready access to one of the two levels as soon as the ring is rotated in the appropriate direction. The levels are set by first turning the light on (holding for the appropriate period of time depending on which side is to be adjusted) releasing the ring and then, rotating to ring to the left to Decrease the light level or to the right to Increase the level of the side which is "on". The adjustment procedure occurs in "steps"--that is the ring is not held constantly to the left or the right during the intensity adjustment procedure rather there are repeated rotation and release motions used to increase/decrease the intensity of the illumination. This protocol is followed since the new, adjusted light level is only reached after release from the rotated position. This allows for the user to view a light level to ascertain if that level is the one at which we wish the light to arrive at when he/she accesses that "side" of the light. Once a desired level is reached, that level may be locked in by loosening the tail piece until the light is extinguished. The identical action is used to set the second "side" to a preset level.
While the process may sound complex, it is mastered after a few attempts and the actions become virtually automatic. It is one of the most simple user interfaces of any multiple level light which I own.
As we all know, I've never been a technical reviewer and so you won't find any specific measurements in this assessment however I am most impressed with the incredibly wide range of light levels from a
low-low get up in the middle of the night to visit the whatever to an all-out light up the backyard blast to check out what's making the noise at midnight. The specific measurement have been identified in another review so, if numbers are needed, please read there. This is a thrower with a more narrow beam than my HDS, Novatac, SPY 005 and many others. The beam also displays a donut and some concentric circles both of which will identify the fact that I was shining the light on the wall. I generally don't use my lights to light up walls however so I will say that in real life performance, it is a most effective light—I didn't notice any beam artifacts when the light was used for lighting purposes.
I am, admittedly, a clicky fan vs. a twisty fan. That is not to say that I don't own twisty operated lights—those where you twist the head (generally) to turn the light on and off and, in some cases, reach different light levels—I just PREFER the clicky type. Whatever floats yer boat as they say. Despite that fact, I found this light to be the best of two worlds in the fact that this twisty interfce is much smoother than any other light which I own. This is due to the fact that the ring is internally connected to a spring mechanism which returns it to a "center" location whenever the ring is released from twisting it left or right. If you set the right side to the highest level and want to give a quick burst to dazzle the object of your interest, twist to the right for a second and let go. If you need the lowest level and you have preset the left side to that level and need that short burst again, twist to the left and then let go! It's actually a fun light (as well as most useful!) to operate!
I have used this light for about two hours total at this point and for me, that is quite a bit of use over the period of only several days. My impressions? Well, I really like the appearance, physical size in my hand, ease of use and most of all, light performance. It's a great piece. My beefs? I'd like the anodizing to be better, I'd like the ring travel to be shorter, the spring stiffer and the ring a bit tighter in it's rotation. Would I buy one? Definitely! I find this design and user interface to be a great breakthrough and one which will be equally appreciated by twisty and clicky lover alike.
Karl
The best way to approach operation of this light (which has a brand new UI) is to imagine the light having two "sides". Side "A" is accessed by twisting the spring-loaded front ring to the left while side "B" is accessed by twisting the ring to the right.
To gain momentary illumination of either "side" the ring is twisted to the "stop" (end of twisting rotation) in the direction of the "side" and the light illuminates. Twisting and holding the ring to the right for approximately 1 second will turn the light on and remain on until a separate action is taken. The same interface is true for the left side with the exception of the fact that the ring must be held for at least 5 seconds after twisting to the left in order for the light to remain on. In either direction, you know the light will remain on by a slight flicker in the light. The light is turned off (either "side") by twisting the ring to the right and holding it there for about the one second period.
Various light levels (right or left "side") may be pre-set for ready access to one of the two levels as soon as the ring is rotated in the appropriate direction. The levels are set by first turning the light on (holding for the appropriate period of time depending on which side is to be adjusted) releasing the ring and then, rotating to ring to the left to Decrease the light level or to the right to Increase the level of the side which is "on". The adjustment procedure occurs in "steps"--that is the ring is not held constantly to the left or the right during the intensity adjustment procedure rather there are repeated rotation and release motions used to increase/decrease the intensity of the illumination. This protocol is followed since the new, adjusted light level is only reached after release from the rotated position. This allows for the user to view a light level to ascertain if that level is the one at which we wish the light to arrive at when he/she accesses that "side" of the light. Once a desired level is reached, that level may be locked in by loosening the tail piece until the light is extinguished. The identical action is used to set the second "side" to a preset level.
While the process may sound complex, it is mastered after a few attempts and the actions become virtually automatic. It is one of the most simple user interfaces of any multiple level light which I own.
As we all know, I've never been a technical reviewer and so you won't find any specific measurements in this assessment however I am most impressed with the incredibly wide range of light levels from a
low-low get up in the middle of the night to visit the whatever to an all-out light up the backyard blast to check out what's making the noise at midnight. The specific measurement have been identified in another review so, if numbers are needed, please read there. This is a thrower with a more narrow beam than my HDS, Novatac, SPY 005 and many others. The beam also displays a donut and some concentric circles both of which will identify the fact that I was shining the light on the wall. I generally don't use my lights to light up walls however so I will say that in real life performance, it is a most effective light—I didn't notice any beam artifacts when the light was used for lighting purposes.
I am, admittedly, a clicky fan vs. a twisty fan. That is not to say that I don't own twisty operated lights—those where you twist the head (generally) to turn the light on and off and, in some cases, reach different light levels—I just PREFER the clicky type. Whatever floats yer boat as they say. Despite that fact, I found this light to be the best of two worlds in the fact that this twisty interfce is much smoother than any other light which I own. This is due to the fact that the ring is internally connected to a spring mechanism which returns it to a "center" location whenever the ring is released from twisting it left or right. If you set the right side to the highest level and want to give a quick burst to dazzle the object of your interest, twist to the right for a second and let go. If you need the lowest level and you have preset the left side to that level and need that short burst again, twist to the left and then let go! It's actually a fun light (as well as most useful!) to operate!
I have used this light for about two hours total at this point and for me, that is quite a bit of use over the period of only several days. My impressions? Well, I really like the appearance, physical size in my hand, ease of use and most of all, light performance. It's a great piece. My beefs? I'd like the anodizing to be better, I'd like the ring travel to be shorter, the spring stiffer and the ring a bit tighter in it's rotation. Would I buy one? Definitely! I find this design and user interface to be a great breakthrough and one which will be equally appreciated by twisty and clicky lover alike.
Karl
Nice UI review... 
Just one thing i didn't see mentioned - despite being described as "twisty"-like, it'd actually be more accurate to describe it as a jog-dial. The range of motion is limited and it springs back to center once you let it go.
Do you think there's reason to believe it could be activated by accident? And how does it feel when operated single-handedly (or single-fingeredly)?
Just one thing i didn't see mentioned - despite being described as "twisty"-like, it'd actually be more accurate to describe it as a jog-dial. The range of motion is limited and it springs back to center once you let it go.
Do you think there's reason to believe it could be activated by accident? And how does it feel when operated single-handedly (or single-fingeredly
)?
karlthev
Flashlight Enthusiast
Possibly the terminology "jog-dial" is more appropriate. Could it turn on accidentally in one's pocket? I guess so....I have carried mine in a case on my belt and I haven't had any difficulties thus far. I still would like the rotation distance shortened and the spring tension greater but, that COULD make one-handed operation more difficult. As it is now, I find the one-handed (one fingered?) operation very easy.
Karl
Karl
h.g.trunnion
Newly Enlightened
Hi,
@Kurapica:
Why did you choose such a low frequency (127 Hz) for the PWM regulation of stage 1 to 3?
This is in fact a visible frequency, at least when the light or the lighted object are moving.
Something > 1 kHz would be much better.
Regards,
Norbert
@Kurapica:
Why did you choose such a low frequency (127 Hz) for the PWM regulation of stage 1 to 3?
This is in fact a visible frequency, at least when the light or the lighted object are moving.
Something > 1 kHz would be much better.
Regards,
Norbert
I've been thinking (which is generally not a good sign ) and got two ideas for a slight, hardware UI improvement. The mechanical design of the ring would have to change quite a lot for it, though (so maybe in some next revision of Spartanian, if it won't be too complicated to design and implement)...
Both ideas boil down to the same thing - adding an additional degree of freedom to the ring.
1. enabling the ring to slide backward/forward and adding two nipples in one of the positions (preferably backward), so it's possible to lock it in central position and prevent accidental activation or deactivation
2. enabling the ring to momentarily slide backward or forward and using it as an additional function - momentary on at 100%, access to a "third" mode that switches the light on at the last used output level, or - perhaps - direct access to the 2 modes without switching the light off (twist left/right +push) or any number of other things
Any chance something like that could be implemented in the future or does it complicate the mechanism and UI too much?
) and got two ideas for a slight, hardware UI improvement. The mechanical design of the ring would have to change quite a lot for it, though (so maybe in some next revision of Spartanian, if it won't be too complicated to design and implement)...Both ideas boil down to the same thing - adding an additional degree of freedom to the ring.
1. enabling the ring to slide backward/forward and adding two nipples in one of the positions (preferably backward), so it's possible to lock it in central position and prevent accidental activation or deactivation
2. enabling the ring to momentarily slide backward or forward and using it as an additional function - momentary on at 100%, access to a "third" mode that switches the light on at the last used output level, or - perhaps - direct access to the 2 modes without switching the light off (twist left/right +push) or any number of other things
Any chance something like that could be implemented in the future or does it complicate the mechanism and UI too much?
Neoseikan, Kurapica,
Great job so far, Spartanian II look and performs just awesome,
but there are two issues that holds me to pull the trigger:
1. it uses RCR batterys which i dont use, and dont intent to.
2. 2sec wait to switch it on/off? no way, Im not that patient
my question is: will You release 18650 version?? As far as i can see its only matter of making middle body part or tailcup couple of cm longer. Anyway, Spartanian II size comparing to other CR123 lights is rather on the big side, So why didnt You start to make it use 18650 from very beginning?
Any chance for tailcup switch ? -this can solve 2s on/off delay.
Great job so far, Spartanian II look and performs just awesome,
but there are two issues that holds me to pull the trigger:
1. it uses RCR batterys which i dont use, and dont intent to.
2. 2sec wait to switch it on/off? no way, Im not that patient
my question is: will You release 18650 version?? As far as i can see its only matter of making middle body part or tailcup couple of cm longer. Anyway, Spartanian II size comparing to other CR123 lights is rather on the big side, So why didnt You start to make it use 18650 from very beginning?
Any chance for tailcup switch ? -this can solve 2s on/off delay.
If you need it on immediately, it will come on immediately. And stay on as long as you keep the finger on the ring. After 2 seconds, you can release the ring.
I don't really see how that impairs any sort of normal use, considering the light can be operated single-handedly.
Regarding size... It seems smaller (is it?) than Ra Twisty or a Novatac.
I don't really see how that impairs any sort of normal use, considering the light can be operated single-handedly.
Regarding size... It seems smaller (is it?) than Ra Twisty or a Novatac.
neoseikan
Enlightened
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2006
- Messages
- 611
Hi. All.
1- We may release the 18650 version, when we complete the project of Legion II.
2- Orcinus, you idea is great. We will do research on it.
3- The head is a bit more fat than Ra or Novatac.
From my Spartanian review:
The S2 and Novatac are similar at the tail region, but the S2 is definitely wider at the head and a bit longer overall.
