srt

Patriot

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i take offense in this statement. but probably not too suprising coming from one endorsing PredatorEDC ;-)

I'm not even sure what this means or why you would be offended.. Are you trying to communicate that because PredatorEDC provides me with test lights, I therefore can't suppose that you wouldn't object if Eagletac offered a similar product to Nitecore's SRT? Sorta seems like a non sequitur to me.
:thinking:

PredatorEDC offers at least a half dozen or more brands including, Fenix, Klarus, Olight, Nitecore, Inova, Streamlight....and surely you didn't miss this paragraph:

"I generally don't get too wrapped up in branding (as long as it's not a Uranusfire) and focus more on the individual model's capabilities. They all have their 'flops' and technical issues and they all have their standout's. Although I own 6 zebralights and two Eagletacs and think they're wonderful, some of us have this light in hand and can testify to its useability, intuitiveness and practical application to our own low light activities."

In case it went unnoticed, I've shared my displeasure over what I would call, Nitecore's marketing nonsense, throughout this thread as well.

With specific regards to PredatorEDC. I receive ZERO monetary compensation from them and occasionally get to keep a light. I have an agreement to mention their store name in my videos as long as they pay extra to have test lights overnight air mailed (very expensive) so that I can get them as early as possible. That typically means they're available to purchase 1-2 days before anyone else gets them! That's any brand or model that I choose, btw. I only review what I anticipate I will like and hopefully what CPFers will also recognize value in. The time and work that I put into my torch reviews is done simply because I enjoy this forum, the people and the hobby.

Overclocker
as for SRT7 it strikes me as perhaps a bit too gimmicky but i keep an open mind. i even think it's a step in the right direction coming from the silly P25. as i said i just need to rationalize the existence of the RGB leds, weak as they are, to change what i think about them from being gimmicky to at least mildly useful. sadly no one has really demonstrated the legitimate uses for the weak RGBs. so the obvious comparison would be to the G25C2 which could pump out lots more colored light (far more useful). yes the diffuser/filter contraption adds extra bulk/complexity but hey they SRT7's RGB is nowhere near as bright so don't complain! i'm not a nitecore hater. believe me i'm actually looking for a reason to buy this model!

That's great man! I think it's neat that you're receptive to giving this light a chance! Yeah, nothing that you've said previously in this thread would have really indicated that you were "keeping an open mind" for this model, and of course, I never suggested that you were a "Nitecore hater," only that they weren't generally favored by you. Turns out that's not the case.

As for the "rationalizing the existence" of low output, colored LED or RGB's, refer to the SF A2 Aviator, the popularity of the Aviatrix A2 mod before it went sour, the SF Kroma or even the old Inova X5's. It's widely recognized that a multitude of tasks can be accomplished with less than 10 lumens of light and it's not uncommon for the small jobs to benefit from colored LED's rather than large scale duties. I've found that the red is great for navigating around the house or yard. When I turn it off I don't notice any lost of night vision. The blue was sort of handy the other night while changing a battery in my vehicle, the white was attracting bugs so I switched over and they went away. I used the blue again tonight bringing in groceries without moths racing me to my open front door.
 
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X5CR123A

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As a photographer I would find the low red/green output perfect for checking camera settings without affecting night vision, and the high white output useful for painting a scene with light and other creative affects. I say would, as I missed the news on this model and bought a P25 last month...

Personally I have no use for the high powered colour output, but I am sure others have the opposite requirement.

Patriot you mentioned the old Inova X5 colours, I have a friend who's a police officer who still carries a green X5 for filling out paperwork and checking ID at night, and a UV one for some ID validation.

That has to be the next step to get a UV emitter in there somewhere as well...
 

JetskiMark

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<snip>

I generally don't get too wrapped up in branding (as long as it's not a Uranusfire) and focus more on the individual model's capabilities.

I completely agree. Except for the Uranusfire brand. I bought an N10 strictly for it's exclusive brand name. It got a lot of laughs at a party this past weekend. Seventeen dollars well spent.

An SRT7 would have been perfect for some disco lighting at the party. I plan on buying one if it proves to be reliable and gets deeply discounted.
 

Patriot

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I completely agree. Except for the Uranusfire brand. I bought an N10 strictly for it's exclusive brand name. It got a lot of laughs at a party this past weekend. Seventeen dollars well spent.

I remember! In fact, it was because of that thread and your enjoying the humor of ordering one that it came to mind. I now use that name as the standard for describing any "Fire" brand light from dee x type warehouses. :)
 

LOUSYGREATWALLGM

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Thanks for the review Patriot, was very helpful in my decision making. (2 SRT7 is making its way to my place now :sssh:)

Anyone's looking to save some $$$ on SRT7? hit my inbox
 

NorthernStar

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I'd like to share a link with my pictures of the NiteCore SRT7 ...

https://picasaweb.google.com/100911105172410698860/NiteCoreSRT7?authkey=Gv1sRgCM-1s9LG-cek9QE#

I did notice a pre-flash on mine. Unlike a previous reviewer who had a "gap" in the control ring of his SRT7, I have an overlap. Wow, what a thrower this thing is.

LedTed,
since you got a SRT-7 i´d like to ask you about it´s features. When you run the SRT-7 at the turbo mode,does it step down in effect after 3 minutes?
 

LedTed

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My SRT7 does not, to my eyes, step down after three minutes.
However, the indicator LED starts rapidly flashing; even with a freshly charged 18650.
 

Patriot

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I'd like to share a link with my pictures of the NiteCore SRT7 ...

https://picasaweb.google.com/100911105172410698860/NiteCoreSRT7?authkey=Gv1sRgCM-1s9LG-cek9QE#

I did notice a pre-flash on mine. Unlike a previous reviewer who had a "gap" in the control ring of his SRT7, I have an overlap. Wow, what a thrower this thing is.


Thanks for the pics Ted. Nice work!

Yeah, my light has a slight dead zone / "gap" in the control ring. When you say yours has overlap, I'm trying to understand what you mean. If you get the chance would you describe what it does. I'm always curious about these different characteristics. Thanks.
 

InquisitiveInquirer

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I wonder if the lumen output of the red / blue between the srt 7, 5, and 3 will be any different? Obviously the main XM-L LED will be different between the 3, but how about the 3 tinier red/Blue leds?
 

LedTed

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Hey Patriot and all,

Yes, it was from your brilliant review that I remembered you having the "slight dead zone / 'gap' in the control ring" on your NiteCore SRT7.

For my SRT7, I can get the white LED to 'flicker' just past the low end of the 'variable' position; just before the 'off' detent. And, I can get 'strobe' to flicker at the other end of the variable position; just before the strobe detent - so the light has both full white brightness and strobe.

Follow the links directly below to see YouTube videos of the 'overlap'. As with the crappy pictures, I used the camera on my iPhone 5 to take the two example videos. The actual strobe was too fast for my iPhone to capture.
Flickr / Off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDopFGX7KlA
Flickr / Strobe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZ0Mo5scveo

Speaking of pictures, the night ones I took were taken from about 15 feet. The target was a white garage door.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1009111...-1s9LG-cek9QE#

I'll be visiting a cave on Sunday. I'm bringing my shiny new SRT7. I'll test it out on CR123s and see if the 'red indicator led' starts to flash quickly after three minutes; like it does on my Trustfire 2500mAhr 18650.
 
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Patriot

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I wonder if the lumen output of the red / blue between the srt 7, 5, and 3 will be any different? Obviously the main XM-L LED will be different between the 3, but how about the 3 tinier red/Blue leds?

The output of the RBG LEDs with regards to the 6&7 will be the same. The overall output of the 3&5 will be about 1/3 that of the 6&7 since it's my understanding that they're using a single RGB led instead of three.



Hey Patriot and all,

Yes, it was from your brilliant review that I remembered you having the "slight dead zone / 'gap' in the control ring" on your NiteCore SRT7.

For my SRT7, I can get the white LED to 'flicker' just past the low end of the 'variable' position; just before the 'off' detent. And, I can get 'strobe' to flicker at the other end of the variable position; just before the strobe detent - so the light has both bull white brightness and strobe.

Follow the links directly below to see YouTube videos of the 'overlap'. As with the crappy pictures, I used the camera on my iPhone 5 to two take example videos. The actual strobe was too fast for my iPhone to capture.
Flickr / Off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDopFGX7KlA
Flickr / Strobe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZ0Mo5scveo



Got it! Thank's for taking the time to detail that out for me. I had an idea what you meant by overlap but didn't want to assume. The videos were helpful too. Thank you! :) Hopefully, this overlap won't increase with time. I've seen it happen on a couple of jetbeams before.
 

LedTed

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NiteCore SRT7 Post Cave Trip Review (WARNING LONG)

BACKGROUND
I previously stated that, after about three minutes, "the indicator LED starts rapidly flashing; even with a freshly charged 18650."
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?356908-srt&p=4212143&viewfull=1#post4212143

Because of this odd indication, I also previously stated, "I'll test it (SRT7) out on CR123s".
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?356908-srt&p=4212666&viewfull=1#post4212666

Well, it seems that I may have looked left and gone right on this one. That is, I may have inadvertently picked up and used the partially discharged 18650 I was trying to replace. See the partially quantitative but mostly anecdotal data following the caveats.

CAVEATS
I currently only have the camera on my iPhone 5 to photo document. As my Trustfire 18650s are only rated for 2500 mAhr, I did not expect follow up testing to last over one hour. Pictures of the following can be found at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/100911...veReviewOfSRT7?authkey=Gv1sRgCNWoqoyop-HrkQE#

STORY (INITIAL TEST)
While in the cave, I managed to start and stop the stopwatch on my wrist watch, within about two seconds; effectively stopping the timing I attempted to track. But, a check of my watch proved that a set new off-the-shelf 1500 mAhr Energizer lithium 123s, kept the low battery indicator of my SRT7 at bay for about forty-five minutes. For this three-quarter of an hour, I kept my flashlight on its highest setting. When I noticed the battery indicator LED rapidly flashing, I turned down the brightness. The rapid flashing desisted. When I again needed full illumination, it was available to me. And, the indicator would again start flashing quickly after a few minutes of use at this high current level. I repeated this cycle for the remaining half-hour in the cave. Other members of my group brought a ShiningBeam S-Mini and a Niteye MSC20 into the cave. The SRT7 certainly could throw the entire straight length of any tunnel. The S-Mini provided adequate general use light. But, the MSC20 afforded the best cave lighting; illuminating caverns and reaching out down tunnels.

DATA (FOLLOW UP TEST)
Having quite easily gotten past the three minute mark using 123s, I tested my SRT7 with a fully charged Trustfire 2500 mAhr 18650; which I first verified as fully charged.
I went to the cave and used my new NiteCore SRT7.
I verified that my test 18650 battery was fully charged.
I: used an IR thermometer to verify the flashlights starting temperature of about 68° F (20° C), stared the timer on my watch, and witnessed the battery indicator on my SRT7.
I: ran the light on high for about twenty-five minutes, noticed a slowly blinking battery indicator, and found a hottest temperature of about 110° F (43° C).
I: ran the light on high for about another fifteen minutes, noticed a still slowly blinking battery indicator, and found a hottest temperature of about 115° F (46° C).
I: continued to run the light on high for about another twenty minutes, noticed a still slowly blinking battery indicator, and found a hottest temperature of about 115° F (46° C).
I: switch timers and continued to run the light on high for about another ten minutes, noticed a quickly blinking battery indicator, and found a hottest temperature of about 115° F (46° C).
I then removed the 18650 battery and measured the temperatures of both the bottom (cap side) and top (LED side). The bottom measured about 92° F (33° C) and top about 95° F (35° C).
 

Patriot

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The S-Mini provided adequate general use light. But, the MSC20 afforded the best cave lighting; illuminating caverns and reaching out down tunnels.

Sounds like the SRT7 is a bit too throwy for this application. Is that why to MSC20 seemed to work best?


Great report about the run-time and temperatures!
 

LedTed

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Yes, the SRT7 was (IMHO) too throwy for efficient cave use. It best illuminated the path ahead for safe footsteps. In fact the intense beam obliterated many of the shadows another light may have caused, when used to light the ground of those ahead of myself. But that same beam was too concentrated to provide ambient light in caverns.

This is where the MSC20 excelled. The combination of relatively small and short reflector fitted with a XML LED produced a wide cast suitable to illuminate caverns; while the bright hot spot was focused enough to project down tunnels.
 

TobyZiegler

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Yes, the SRT7 was (IMHO) too throwy for efficient cave use. It best illuminated the path ahead for safe footsteps. In fact the intense beam obliterated many of the shadows another light may have caused, when used to light the ground of those ahead of myself. But that same beam was too concentrated to provide ambient light in caverns.

This is where the MSC20 excelled. The combination of relatively small and short reflector fitted with a XML LED produced a wide cast suitable to illuminate caverns; while the bright hot spot was focused enough to project down tunnels.

Try the Diffusor filter, 40mm... it provides perfect floody light, should come in very handy in a cave to
accentuate the shadows.

But i agree, the SRT7 is generally a throwy light.
 

LedTed

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The intense beam from the SRT7 obliterated many shadows in the cave; as opposed to the other two flashlight in my group. I believe this was due to knife edge effect.

I would, however be interested in a diffuser for my SRT7. To that end, which "the Diffusor filter, 40mm"? Can you kindly provide a link?
 

__philippe

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