Super Simple DIY Li-Ion Rechargeable Charger

balrog

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djpartk, This is a way cool howto and a great little design. I love the USB idea to save on wall warts, power points and for excellent portability. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Klaus, how long does it take to charge the R123 via USB power? I believe that from the USB bus you can only draw about 100mA max.
 

andrewwynn

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This circuit is the bomb... I'm about to buy some LiONs and this will be just the ticket... I'm thinking of building the batts right into my next project, and just use an inky dinky power plug to get the charger connected.

What's the best way to get a few of the chips, just order from them, or digikey or what?
 

djpark

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I stay in Malaysia and Digikey is not an option. Neither Farnell nor RS Components carry them. The local LT representative was no help. They refused to give sample either. The only way to buy was from LT directly with $24 for shipping.

-- dj
 

Klaus

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[ QUOTE ]
balrog said:

Klaus, how long does it take to charge the R123 via USB power? I believe that from the USB bus you can only draw about 100mA max.

[/ QUOTE ]

[ QUOTE ]
moraino said:

I think the max current from USB port is 500mA.



[/ QUOTE ]

Balrog - I think its the usual 2hours or so, probably less, and moraino is right - per spec USB ports can supply 500ma and the CM-4054 kit is set to around that charging current.

Klaus
 

balrog

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Thanks. Well then the USB idea is even better than I could have hoped! Whilst on the topic, what voltage is the USB power at? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 

KevinL

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5V 500mA max per hub (usually a group of two physical ports).

I have a GP NiMH charger for 4 cells, that runs off USB. I got tired of running out of wall sockets, this place is gonna start an electrical fire some day, so I thought I'd go USB. It's a medium speed charger, 7 hours usually. Charges everything from my 1300mAH GPs to 2100 Sanyos. A bonus is that since I place my computer in standby mode, rather than completely powered off at night in order to have it come up *FAST* the next morning, the ATX power supply continues to deliver a token amount of power to the USB ports, enough to keep the charger running. This is the standby voltage, because it needs to keep certain devices powered in order for wakeup to occur when an event happens, such as a key is pressed, or the mouse is clicked, or the Ethernet card receives a wakeup event yadda yadda..

The computer sleeps, and the cells are charged overnight or when I'm at work. No reason why you couldn't build a lithium ion charger out of this with suitable electronics.
 

andrewwynn

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[ QUOTE ]
djpark said:
I stay in Malaysia and Digikey is not an option. Neither Farnell nor RS Components carry them. The local LT representative was no help. They refused to give sample either. The only way to buy was from LT directly with $24 for shipping.

-- dj

[/ QUOTE ]

I ended up ordering 4 for a total of $15 with shipping ($7).. next time you need something so small talk to a guy in the states that might need something from LT.. for $7 you can probably as many little parts as you'd ever want shipped.. and it would probably cost about $1 to airmail you a letter that has a chip or two taped inside.

-awr..

ps.. 'for you'... i'd send one for free.. you solved several of my problems i had 'in the works'. oh oh i may have said too much (you didn't see that klaus.. mr private investigator you)
 

andrewwynn

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OH.. ps... i bought a usb charge cable for my cell phone... for $2 off of eBay.. I only point this out... because the cable is about 1/4th the diameter of a typical usb cable, so might be much nicer for such a charger...

I am tossed what i should do with this charger solution... i'm thinking of making an inline charger (like the inline amp concept)... that just has a micro plug... that i can plug into several different devices... such as a battery holder or a flashlight itself... i can have the charger inline inside some shrink-wrap (heat).. so that it looks a little like a snake that just ate something.. but the output is the charging ckt.. then i can use it to charge different devices...

else.. i can just use a 5V supply (either from usb or from wall wart (powerbrick)).. and have the charger duplicated in the different devices... I like the idea of having a switch in-case i'm charging a bigger or smaller battery pack.

ps.. i couldn't believe when i read the datasheet for the LT chip.. basically..

'here is a complete LiON charger... add voltage and battery'... and a single resistor to tell me how fast to charge

(thanks dj for sharing your project to save us all the time of figuring it out)
 

djpark

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[ QUOTE ]
andrewwynn said:
I ended up ordering 4 for a total of $15 with shipping ($7).. next time you need something so small talk to a guy in the states that might need something from LT.. for $7 you can probably as many little parts as you'd ever want shipped.. and it would probably cost about $1 to airmail you a letter that has a chip or two taped inside.

-awr..

ps.. 'for you'... i'd send one for free.. you solved several of my problems i had 'in the works'. oh oh i may have said too much (you didn't see that klaus.. mr private investigator you)

[/ QUOTE ]

It is great to know "WHOM" I need to talk in future. I really appreciate.

-- dj
 

djpark

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Asking HELP from Electronic Gurus:

This charging IC is working fine, but I am not happy with the led output of the status. LTC4054 employ 3 status on the output -- high impedance, 20uA weak pulldown & 10mA strong pulldown -- and this 3 status is fine. But my problem is with strong pulldown even without a battery to charge.

[ QUOTE ]
The CHRG pin can provide an indication that the input voltage is greater than the undervoltage lockout threshold level. A weak pull-down current of approximately 20mA indicates that sufficient voltage is applied to VCC to begin charging. When a discharged battery is connected to the charger, the constant current portion of the charge cycle begins and the CHRG pin pulls to ground. The CHRG pin can sink up to 10mA to drive an LED that indicates that a charge cycle is in progress.

When the battery is nearing full charge, the charger enters the constant-voltage portion of the charge cycle and the charge current begins to drop. When the charge current drops below 1/10 of the programmed current, the charge cycle ends and the strong pull-down is replaced by the 20mA pull-down, indicating that the charge cycle has ended. If the input voltage is removed or drops below the undervoltage lockout threshold, the CHRG pin becomes high impedance.

charge-detect.gif


To detect when the LTC4054 is in charge mode, force the digital output pin (OUT) high and measure the voltage at the CHRG pin. The N-channel MOSFET will pull the pin voltage low even with the 2k pull-up resistor. Once the charge cycle terminates, the N-channel MOSFET is turned off and a 20mA current source is connected to the CHRG pin. The IN pin will then be pulled high by the 2k pull-up resistor. To determine if there is a weak pull-down current, the OUT pin should be forced to a high impedance state. The weak current source will pull the IN pin low through the 800k resistor; if CHRG is high impedance, the IN pin will be pulled

[/ QUOTE ]

The statement "strong pulldown" during the charge and weak pulldown when completed seems correct. When an led is connected from B+ (5V) to chrg pin through 1K resistor, it lights up very bright during the charge as expected. When the charging is complete, the led is hardly lit up, but still visibly on, so of 20uA weak pull down is correct.

The misleading part is that when there is no battery connected to charge it lights up quite bright though not as bright as during the charging time. I am hoping to turn off the led when it is not really charging with a battery since a user may not notice if the battery contact is no good since the led is on anyway.

I don't know why LTC4054 is designed this way, but I am hoping that some gurus here can come out with a transistor circuit to cut off the led when not really charging in absence of the battery.

From my observation, I find this behavior of the chrg pin voltage when connected to B+ through 2K resistor (no led).

<ul type="square"> [*]1.44V during the constant current charging [*]1.78V when there is no battery [*]same as B+ when charging is complete [/list]

That means to turn on led if the charg pin voltage is below 1.6V and turn off if above 1.6V using a PNP transistor, with different resistor value, the voltage would be different. Any suggestion?

Another point which I can take charging status is from the PROG pin.

<ul type="square"> [*]When it is in constant current charging mode, the voltage is 1V. [*]As the current start reduce, the voltage start going down as low as 0.1V (10%) [*]Once the charging current eaches 10%, the voltage drops to 0.01V to indicate no charging. [/list]

So will it be easier if a NPN transistor is used to amplify this voltage to turn on led if above 0.05V?

Thanks a lot.

-- dj
 

MrAl

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Hi there dj,

Did you try a cap directly across the output where the
cell goes? Value might range from 0.1uf to 10uf, you'll
have to try them.
This idea is to fool the ic into thinking it's got
a battery and that battery is fully charged :)

Hope it works...

Take care,
Al
 

djpark

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[ QUOTE ]
MrAl said:
Hi there dj,

Did you try a cap directly across the output where the
cell goes? Value might range from 0.1uf to 10uf, you'll
have to try them.
This idea is to fool the ic into thinking it's got
a battery and that battery is fully charged :)

Hope it works...

Take care,
Al

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks a lot, Mr. Al!

I found this statement in the datasheet after reading your post.

[ QUOTE ]
The constant-voltage mode feedback loop is stable without an output capacitor provided a battery is connected to the charger output. With no battery present, an output capacitor is recommended to reduce ripple voltage. When using high value, low ESR ceramic capacitors, it is recommended to add a 1W resistor in series with the capacitor. No series resistor is needed if tantalum capacitors are used.

[/ QUOTE ]

Your suggestion works like a magic. The led blinks with a dim light. It looks like it is going through the trickle recharge cycle. With the capacitor, the output voltage without battery is 4.15V and without the cap, it is 3.8V. Maybe it is unstable between 4.2V and low voltage? I guess it thinks it is charging.

The led blinks slowly if bigger capacitor (4.7-10uF) and fast with smaller caps (0.1-1uF). Smaller caps gives almost continuos dim light from led. I find that using 10-22uF gives nice blink as indicator for the absence of the battery. So the led status should look like this now.

ON - charging process
OFF - charge complete
dim blink - no battery

I will add a 10uF cap to the basic circuit above.

[edit] Now the original HOWTO post is updated.

BTW, do you think I need one series resistor with a electrolyte capacitor?

-- dj
 

andrewwynn

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this is so awesome! i'm just about to build a ckt or two with this design, the timing couldn't be much more perfect.. i was just about to in a day or three solve this problem myself and you guys beat me to it, God i love CPF you guys are awesome...

my initial thought was to just play with resistors or a pot on the LED.. perhaps just the right value of zener that would make it shut the current at the right place.. but the blink is awesome, what a cute solution.

-awr
 

MrAl

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Hi there,

dj:
Oh, great news! Im glad it's working as expected now.
Seems like a good indication that the cell isnt connected.

andrew:
Hee hee, yeah 'cute' it is :) I like the blinking too
as it's a very good indication about the cell. My LM317
based design has a shorted cell indication.

Take care,
Al
 

cypher2001

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Anyone know of a parts house that has the LTC4054 in stock? It looks like Digikey has none. I'd order from them directly, but I will be stuck with a fairly hefty 7.00 shipping charge ( when weight isnt really an issue ).
My real concern is not the 7.00 shipping. Its the fact that I need other parts anyways that I'd like to order.

Mouser doesnt carry it.
 

vacuum3d

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LT is only a few miles from where I work. If enough interest is there, I could go pick some up from them and send them off by snail mail.
I actually picked up 10 from them, but those things are so fragile, I managed to destroy three of them during testing. I located the rest of the parts from the local Fry's. I use surface mount parts to make the board quite small.

btw, I added the new Capacitor. The led light now makes a lot of sense.

Thank you dj and MrAl!!!

ernest
 

cypher2001

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I'm sure your offer would save a couple of us some $$. I just wish I could find a supplier who has it in stock.

DO let me know if you get enough interest.
 
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