Surefire 6P drop-in won't fit... "Short pocket?"

[m4a1usr]

Seems strange this would be a problem, if they are supposed to be P60 style dropins then shouldn't fitting (without the gap) in a Surefire 6P be the 'Gold Standard'.

Not all P60 drop ins have the same OAL, pill diameter at the driver pocket or sufficient contact area to make the connection to the body. I know I have moved a P60 between a M2, 6P, Z2 and a C2 and while it might have worked fine in one or maybe 2 the rest needed a thin copper ring installed to allow contact to be made. This is especially true with the G2 bodys. Any chance you have access to 20ga or 18ga bare copper wire? It's not that hard to make the part.

 

[chazz]

Not all P60 drop ins have the same OAL, pill diameter at the driver pocket or sufficient contact area to make the connection to the body. I know I have moved a P60 between a M2, 6P, Z2 and a C2 and while it might have worked fine in one or maybe 2 the rest needed a thin copper ring installed to allow contact to be made. This is especially true with the G2 bodys. Any chance you have access to 20ga or 18ga bare copper wire? It's not that hard to make the part.

I get what you are saying and that makes sense if the dropin is too short? I was referring to the bezel to body gap, where the dropin is too long to allow it to screw all the way down, like the above photos.

 

[CLBME]

What you are experiencing is totally normal. All of my surefire lights have the gap with the drop-ins I use. Doesn't cause any issues other than cosmetic.

 

[yellow]

Whoever can "live" with the gap ... fine
but i would never accept such looks!

Thats where the FILE would come handy.
(Also prevents from dust, debrits, fluids getting into)

... btw. till now never any file was necessary.
With old 6P models it is a matter of correct cut outer spring,
with actual 6P it is the wrapping of the copper tape, no outer spring at all
((just for info: at my lights that is an extreme press fit, not "loose" like mentionned above. That should make a good contact to get the heat away and thus ...))

 

[dougie]

Post removed.

 

[jhp762]

I notice a few people saying to wrap the drop in with copper tape... How will that help in this situation?

 

[chazz]

I notice a few people saying to wrap the drop in with copper tape... How will that help in this situation?

That would do nothing to help with the bezel to body gap (as pictured), that is usually done if the dropin has a loose fit to the sides (which is most of the time) of the host to improve thermal transfer to the bezel/body of light. It is also sometimes necessary to improve electrical contact for grounding dropin to the body if it is too short to contact the usual grounding spot in the host and/or a spring is used.

 

[Cerealand]

Whoever can "live" with the gap ... fine
but i would never accept such looks!

Thats where the FILE would come handy.
(Also prevents from dust, debrits, fluids getting into)

... btw. till now never any file was necessary.
With old 6P models it is a matter of correct cut outer spring,
with actual 6P the wrapping of the copper tape, no outer spring at all
((just for info: at my lights that is an extreme press fit, not "loose" like mentionned above. That should make a good contact to get the heat away and thus ...))

I am the complete opposite. I could never file my drop-ins. Just can't stand the way they look after being filed.

 

[chazz]

I am the complete opposite. I could never file my drop-ins. Just can't stand the way they look after being filed.

It is interesting to see the different personality types and what we worry about or not...

I would not want the gap or a nasty looking dropin, but at least you do not see the body of the dropin when it's in the light...

To me, the gap pictured just does not look right and would bother me every time I used the light. So I would probably opt for a little careful machining/filing/sanding or something to get the gap smaller, if possible without screwing something up.

 

[flashlight chronic]

A straight through bore for 18mm cells (no battery retention lip) will help solve all your gap problems.

 

[välineurheilija]

I ground all my Malkoff drop ins to fit perfectly in a 6P.
I used a belt grinder at work but a file can do it also.
I can't stand the gap

 

[ganymede]

Careful when you decide to file down the drop in, overdoing it the dropin might not be grounded effectively causing intermittent contact issue. Malkoff's dropins are intentionally made slightly bigger to avoid intermittent contact issue.

Stock SF incan dropins solved this issue with a large outer spring to keep the dropin tight and effectively grounded.

 

[välineurheilija]

Careful when you decide to file down the drop in, overdoing it the dropin might not be grounded effectively causing intermittent contact issue. Malkoff's dropins are intentionally made slightly bigger to avoid intermittent contact issue.

Stock SF incan dropins solved this issue with a large outer spring to keep the dropin tight and effectively grounded.

Yes that's true but I you do file too much then you can wrap the drop in with aluminium tape or something else conductive

 

[jhp762]

Well, after further research (and use) it seems this problem is common... Which really irritates me. However, that does not take away from the fact that the light itself is AWESOME, so much so that I am considering purchasing a moodular DB body, or Cryo2 head to close that gap. I wish I didn't have to pay $100 to make a drop-in for the way it is supposed to, but I like the light *that much*.

It's kind of bittersweet. Quality of light is amazing, fit and finish not so much.

 

[Maxbelg]

I had a look at my Z2 with Malkoff M61WL and my Oveready 6P with Torchlab dropin: They both have a similar gap to the pics. I didn't notice until now and couldn't care less about the little gap. It guarantees good contact. I am also a bit obsessive about some flashlight stuff like dust in a reflector but I do realize that it's me being OCD and not a manufacturing defect.

 

[Woods Walker]

I really wouldn't worry about that gap. It doesn't effect the seal in anyway of the head. This is a gear item with a job to do not jewelry though will admit a dislike for dust on reflectors and scratched windows.

 

[jhp762]

I really wouldn't worry about that gap. It doesn't effect the seal in anyway of the head. This is a gear item with a job to do not jewelry though will admit a dislike for dust on reflectors and scratched windows.

Yes, and I need a "(sealed) explosion-proof flashlight with an unfiltered lens" according to the regulations governing my job. I worry that a gap such as that would invite further in investigation than I really care to deal with. :/

On a side note, are you the same woods walker from ZS?

 

[Woods Walker]

Yes, and I need a "(sealed) explosion-proof flashlight with an unfiltered lens" according to the regulations governing my job. I worry that a gap such as that would invite further in investigation than I really care to deal with. :/

On a side note, are you the same woods walker from ZS?

The same one.

 

[jhp762]

The same one.

Nice. I haven't been on there in quite a while, but I always enjoyed your write-ups. I guess I should swing by some time.

To all following this thread, I received an email from the overready guys explaining how the gap truly isn't an issue, and after having it broken down like he did I am much more comfortable with it, and also view it as "not a big deal". Mods, y'all can close this one down if you want.