Surefire 6P drop in updates?

[NotRegulated]

I think you are asking the right questions .
The 6p, with a Malkoff Devices M61, will let you use rechargeables since your 6P is bored and then primary CR123's when the rechargeable dies.

I love my 6P but have come to really like Malkoff's M61HOT and M91T with high/low switch as a modern day replacement for the 6P.
Elzetta Bones is good to go too.

 

[Glow Bug]

Malkoff M361 is nice. Low, medium and high. 5700k or 4000k. 4000k is 95 CRI. Got one today in 4000k. Seems very nice. Of course you lose some output on the 4000k version.

 

[DaveTheDude]

Not to hijack the thread, but if your purpose is to provide high lumen light for an extended period, without thermal meltdown, you might want to consider a new light designed for high outputs and extended runtimes. These will likely prove to be relatively expensive, but they are out there. (Start a separate thread if that's the path you want to follow.) It just won't be in the 6P format.

If your intent however is to maximize the output from your 6P platform, I agree with brother bykfixer that the best way to do so with your current drop-in is to add a cooling bezel. And maybe wear a leather glove whilst generating said lumens. 😈

 

[letschat7]

If only there were some way to insulate the skin of the hand from the burning heat, like wrapping Paracord around the flashlight body in attractive weaved and braided patterns, or even a glove, or somewhere to set the flashlight down, or even better, someone else to hold it.

Won't it melt? Maybe some Nomex?

 

[F89]

I run a couple of high powered quads in bored 6P on 18650. I made the drop ins myself using solid copper shells and H17Fx drivers (programmable).
The first one I made runs pretty hot quite quickly on max power (219B sw45k), but the second one runs more reasonably temperature wise (nice tinted XPE2).
I'm unsure of the lumen output but both put out plenty. The Nichia puts out more but is more floody while the Cree is not as many lumens but tighter, brighter spot.

The MCPCB are the copper DTP variety which I simultaneously soldered to the shell as I reflowed the LEDs for a solid heat transfer.
With a good wrap of copper or aluminium foil for a firm fit, you can get pretty good heat transfer to the body.

Love a nice P60 set up, particularly the good old 6P.

 

[DaveTheDude]

Another possibility to consider for boosting the luminance of your 6P light is to use a drop-in featuring one or more Osram emitters. For a given power level, the lumens won't necessarily increase, but the candela on target would almost certainly do so, while simultaneously producing less waste heat. Just a thought...

 

[F89]

I was actually thinking of such a build last weekend.
While I'm not sure how easy the 3030 footprint would be to reflow onto a quad or triple board (3535), there is this option which can be supplied with LEDs installed already on a triple.
It'd make for a punchy triple for sure.

 

[vicv]

I hadn't thought about the 6P not being made for more powerful drop ins! But that really does make sense.

Regarding the older Protac...I have one that was a very yellow tint. I hated it for that, so I recently got a newer one (the one pictured in my other post) when I heard they were a better brighter white tint. I like it much better.

What do you mean by step down? You mean when the battery is getting low? I never notice any change in my Protac until that happens.

Ya. 6p type light may be the worst led light ever made. Except an incan maglite with a simple pr base led module. Now I'm not saying a 6p is a bad light. It's a fantastic light. But it's a bad led light. At least a p60 drop in module. The 6p was designed to keep the heat from the drop in AWAY from the light and battery. But with an led, you want the heat to be absorbed by the aluminum light body. It's a heat sink. You can wrap the drop in in metal to make it a press fit. But then it's no longer really modular. Or get a whole new head where the light engine is potted to the head, and then the heat will transfer to the body through the threads.

But the best way is just to get a light that's been designed to be led, and leave the 6p with a fantastic Incan lamp assembly in it😁

 

[F89]

Ya. 6p type light may be the worst led light ever made. Except an incan maglite with a simple or base led module. Now I'm not saying a 6p is a bad light. It's a fantastic light. But it's a bad led light. At least a p60 drop in module. The 6p was designed to keep the heat from the drop in AWAY from the light and battery. But with an led, you want the heat to be absorbed by the aluminum light body. It's a heat sink. You can wrap the drop in in metal to make it a press fit. But then it's no longer really modular. Or get a whole new head where the light engine is potted to the head, and then the heat will transfer to the body through the threads.

But the best way is just to get a light that's been designed to be led, and leave the 6p with a fantastic Incan lamp assembly in it😁

I'd have to disagree with you there. That all depends on what, how and possibly who is doing the install.
My 6P mods perform excellently. As seen above, the two in the picture are driven quite hard and perform very well considering the size of the host.

 

[F89]

Got my hands on some Osram triple boards. Using the narrow optic, I wasn't happy with them, I had imagined something much more impressive.
The old 10507 doesn't look like it's optimised for the Osram.

 

[Croquette]

Got my hands on some Osram triple boards. Using the narrow optic, I wasn't happy with them, I had imagined something much more impressive.
The old 10507 doesn't look like it's optimised for the Osram.

that's surprising. I have a quad osram (okay not a triple) but it's the same optics and this thing is crazy.
I use sony vtc5 and a zero rez Oveready switch :

P60vn quad white 2

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on th left, an oveready V5 dropin on afterburner double imr and zero rez switch, on the right, a quad osram dorop in.

 

[F89]

I was actually about to post that I'd changed my mind a bit.
Decided to go ahead and actually finish assembling the head I was modding and play with it now that it's dark.
It's actually pretty impressive but not as smooth as I'm used to. Considering my initial impressions were made on the dreaded white wall, it's actually a fair beast in real use.

(Not a P60).

 

[Voider of Warranties]

Hi guys, besides the SL20 leds I use for duty I carry a Surefire 6P bored out to accept the 18650 batteries - which is my belt light.

Years ago I dropped in (I think) a XHP50 drop in m, from Sportac, rated at 1000 lumens. Great mod and really fits a lot of my check boxes. But the other night I was on a scene where I needed to light up an area for EMS for about 45 min while they worked a guy.

To my question....it got so hot I could barely hold the light in my hand. I swear I have burns from it. Are there any new developments on a p60 sized drop in that are high lumens (800 - 1000) that won't run so hot? One mode?

Thanks guys, been out if the game here fir a while, but coming back to pull some knowledge!!!

Malkoff very recently came out with the "M61 SHO Drop-in to fit Surefire and Malkoff". It's 750 continuous lumens and runs on 3.8v-9v. I haven't run mine long enough to determine heat output, but I like the beam pattern which is basically the same as the M61 but brighter.

 

[vincent3685]

Malkoff very recently came out with the "M61 SHO Drop-in to fit Surefire and Malkoff". It's 750 continuous lumens and runs on 3.8v-9v. I haven't run mine long enough to determine heat output, but I like the beam pattern which is basically the same as the M61 but brighter.

Do you know if that drop-in is regulated? I have an older M61 SHO (360 lumens) in a Surefire C2 using primary 123 batteries and it just keeps getting dimmer and dimmer.

 

[vicv]

Do you know if that drop-in is regulated? I have an older M61 SHO (360 lumens) in a Surefire C2 using primary 123 batteries and it just keeps getting dimmer and dimmer.

It shouldn't. As long as you're above about 3,4v, it should be in regulation.

 

[scalpel_ninja]

I was actually about to post that I'd changed my mind a bit.
Decided to go ahead and actually finish assembling the head I was modding and play with it now that it's dark.
It's actually pretty impressive but not as smooth as I'm used to. Considering my initial impressions were made on the dreaded white wall, it's actually a fair beast in real use.

(Not a P60).
View attachment 52131View attachment 52130

That's a nice looking host. Who makes it?

 

[Voider of Warranties]

Do you know if that drop-in is regulated? I have an older M61 SHO (360 lumens) in a Surefire C2 using primary 123 batteries and it just keeps getting dimmer and dimmer.

I'd be surprised if any Malkoff were NOT regulated. That is to say until voltage drops below a certain point. That point is 3.8v for the new M61 SHO, but the 3.4v that vicv mentioned above sounds right for the lower output models. Malkoff seems to rate their voltage ranges (i.e. 3.8v-9v) such that the lower number indicates when the module will go into direct drive.

 

[scalpel_ninja]

Direct from Malkoff:

 

[F89]

That's a nice looking host. Who makes it?

It's a Dark Sucks Alpha.

 

[Chris_Himself]

All the 1000 lumen lights step down to run that kind of output. Even my $500 fully potted triple 219c Laulima customs can only run 1400 ish lumens for 5 minutes before stepping down to 500 to save themselves. I have it thermally calibrated to step down after about a minute anyway

P60s have a lot of air gap. The module should really built into the head like it is on say a Prometheus Alpha where itll do its full output pretty much full time