greenpea76
Newly Enlightened
if I may ask how did you managed to do that?
the A2 tailcap is destroyed once its disassembled:shakehead
Illum,
I will try to post pics soon if this doesn't make sense.
Since Surefire glues everything now, I tried heating the button on the tail and it broke off ( I'll get into repairing it in a bit). Once the whole assembly slid out, I took a small flat head screwdriver to very carefully pry the PCB off one half of the switch unit. There are three locator pins and I ended breaking one of them. Seems like SF is using cyanoacrylate to hold this stuff together unlike the heads and tailcap ring. No big deal.
The 10 ohm resistor is exposed from that point and you just make sure to find a replacement resistor that fits into the recess of the other half of the switch assy. I used a 62 ohm 1/2 watt that was sitting around in my spare electronics bin. Then you solder, reassemble, test, and you now have a lower low!
Now that the button needs to be replaced, I drilled out the button and the switch shaft which it was glued to to accept a 3mm buttonhead screw that I had from my HPI R/C cars. I had to countersink/ recess the hole on the broken button end to prevent the screw head from protruding. That's it! Once the tailcap rubber is back on, you don't feel a difference in height or tension because the button head matches closely to the original domed cap.
Hope this gives you a better idea.