I haven't handled an E2 in some time, but the external appearance of the tube looks like it should work (for securing in the lathe). Pretty sure I'll have to bore a custom set of soft jaws for that size tube, but that's not a big deal ... my soft jaw collection is growing :laughing:doing E2 bodies to 17670?
Are you saying that only the first 20mm of the tube, on the switch end, needs to be enlarged? That can certainly be done. If you don't mind sending the complete light (plus the 17670's that you plan to use) that would be best ... I can measure, bore/ream/hone, and verify operation of the light. Same pricing as a 6P, $40 plus return shipping.They should only need 20mm in the tail end bored.
And returning your M2 in the mail this afternoon :thumbsup:
My shop will be closed for the holiday (5/27 - 5/30) & I wanted to get the M2 back to Chris without the holiday delay. A few "after" photos ...
+1these fat Redilast cells usually don't fit well.
LOL, that means you are NOT the member from London Which is better, as Priority Flat Rate is only $5.Pm sent regarding international shipping! I'm in NYC
Yeah, the tail threads are small (CR123 won't fit through, about the same diameter as the threads), the batteries go through the head end. A 17670 fits 90% of the way but the body narrows near the tail threads. You will have to bore from the head end.I haven't handled an E2 in some time, but the external appearance of the tube looks like it should work (for securing in the lathe). Pretty sure I'll have to bore a custom set of soft jaws for that size tube, but that's not a big deal ... my soft jaw collection is growing :laughing:
Are you saying that only the first 20mm of the tube, on the switch end, needs to be enlarged? That can certainly be done. If you don't mind sending the complete light (plus the 17670's that you plan to use) that would be best ... I can measure, bore/ream/hone, and verify operation of the light. Same pricing as a 6P, $40 plus return shipping.
Nova, that shouldn't present any problems. My first concern on boring any light is to leave adequate thickness, especially at the O-ring groove (normally the thinnest part of any flashlight tube). Surefires have a (relatively) thick wall to begin with, and I use the minimum bore & ream diameter dimension that allows the battery to fit with just a bit of clearance.You will have to bore from the head end.
Got my 3P body back today, not bad, one week from shipment to receipt, with a holiday to boot.
Very clean work, no evidence the body was ever toouched, and the bored tube is super smooth, with a nice lip to hold the battery and make contact with the drop in.
Thanks Barry!
Funny, as that's next on the list. I'm boring up a set of soft jaws to fit the E-series outside diameter, which is much smaller than any other Surefire I've handled. As you already know, the tail section is very small, so boring is done from the front (LE) end. Minimum wall thickness (at the forward O-ring groove) is very small, just barely enough for an 18mm cell, but it can be done. Boring for a 17mm cell leaves a much thicker and sturdier tube.Look forward to possible e series bores!
That light is about to be an international traveler :laughing:I would like to post you my E2E