Surefire boring service

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^^Nova^^

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Any thoughts on doing E2 bodies to 17670? They should only need 20mm in the tail end bored.

Cheers,
Nova
 

precisionworks

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doing E2 bodies to 17670?
I haven't handled an E2 in some time, but the external appearance of the tube looks like it should work (for securing in the lathe). Pretty sure I'll have to bore a custom set of soft jaws for that size tube, but that's not a big deal ... my soft jaw collection is growing :laughing:

They should only need 20mm in the tail end bored.
Are you saying that only the first 20mm of the tube, on the switch end, needs to be enlarged? That can certainly be done. If you don't mind sending the complete light (plus the 17670's that you plan to use) that would be best ... I can measure, bore/ream/hone, and verify operation of the light. Same pricing as a 6P, $40 plus return shipping.
 

Chrisdm

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And returning your M2 in the mail this afternoon :thumbsup:

My shop will be closed for the holiday (5/27 - 5/30) & I wanted to get the M2 back to Chris without the holiday delay. A few "after" photos ...

surefireboring7.jpg

Thanks Barry, great job and super fast service!! When I threw that Redilast battery in there it was honestly wishful thinking on my part. I have a couple other bored Surefires from various modders and these fat Redilast cells usually don't fit well. But you made it fit perfectly, thanks again!
 

precisionworks

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Euroken sent a message asking if I would "provide a boring service for non SF host ...and, second, whether you would bore a three piece body." The answers to those questions are YES and YES :D

I was initially concerned about maintaining adequate wall thickness, but measurements showed that the body could be bored/reamed/honed while still leaving good wall thickness. It took a little while to figure out the fixturing on the lathe, but nothing insurmountable.


surefireboring17.jpg



surefireboring18.jpg


these fat Redilast cells usually don't fit well.
+1

They measure quite a bit larger in diameter than my "standard" AW18650. The AW cells end up with about .010" radial clearance, while the RediLast cells have just .005" (about the thickness of a business card). .005" is plenty of room, as there is .005" all the way around the cell. Happy to hear that you are pleased :)
 
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euroken

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Ohhh....that looks fantastic! Can't wait!

Pm sent regarding international shipping! I'm in NYC :)
 

precisionworks

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Pm sent regarding international shipping! I'm in NYC :)
LOL, that means you are NOT the member from London :) Which is better, as Priority Flat Rate is only $5.

That tube is nicely made and all the threaded joints fit together very well. You'll have fun with it, whether you use it as a 6P or a 9P.

PM replied to.
 

^^Nova^^

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I haven't handled an E2 in some time, but the external appearance of the tube looks like it should work (for securing in the lathe). Pretty sure I'll have to bore a custom set of soft jaws for that size tube, but that's not a big deal ... my soft jaw collection is growing :laughing:

Are you saying that only the first 20mm of the tube, on the switch end, needs to be enlarged? That can certainly be done. If you don't mind sending the complete light (plus the 17670's that you plan to use) that would be best ... I can measure, bore/ream/hone, and verify operation of the light. Same pricing as a 6P, $40 plus return shipping.
Yeah, the tail threads are small (CR123 won't fit through, about the same diameter as the threads), the batteries go through the head end. A 17670 fits 90% of the way but the body narrows near the tail threads. You will have to bore from the head end.

Cheers,
Nova
 

precisionworks

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You will have to bore from the head end.
Nova, that shouldn't present any problems. My first concern on boring any light is to leave adequate thickness, especially at the O-ring groove (normally the thinnest part of any flashlight tube). Surefires have a (relatively) thick wall to begin with, and I use the minimum bore & ream diameter dimension that allows the battery to fit with just a bit of clearance.

If you want to ship your light, I'll be happy to examine it & determine if it can be bored (which I believe it can). If for any reason it cannot be bored, I'll pay the return shipping to Australia. The fastest way to contact me is an email to precisionworks AT frontier DOT com.
 

PoliceScannerMan

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Got my 3P body back today, not bad, one week from shipment to receipt, with a holiday to boot. :)

Very clean work, no evidence the body was ever toouched, and the bored tube is super smooth, with a nice lip to hold the battery and make contact with the drop in.

Thanks Barry!
 

euroken

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Got my 3P body back today, not bad, one week from shipment to receipt, with a holiday to boot. :)

Very clean work, no evidence the body was ever toouched, and the bored tube is super smooth, with a nice lip to hold the battery and make contact with the drop in.

Thanks Barry!

Got mine yesterday.

Very well done, with buttery smooth bore. No sign of any anno missing on the body as PSM mentioned. The bore fits all my 18650 batteries, even the ones that are slightly largeand would jam in my other bored hosts.

In addition, talk about communication and prompt responses! Great experience as a whole.

Look forward to possible e series bores!

Cheers!
 

precisionworks

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Glad you like your light, Ken :)

Look forward to possible e series bores!
Funny, as that's next on the list. I'm boring up a set of soft jaws to fit the E-series outside diameter, which is much smaller than any other Surefire I've handled. As you already know, the tail section is very small, so boring is done from the front (LE) end. Minimum wall thickness (at the forward O-ring groove) is very small, just barely enough for an 18mm cell, but it can be done. Boring for a 17mm cell leaves a much thicker and sturdier tube.
 
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precisionworks

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The Surefire 6PX-Pro just arrived ... sweet light that has one of the nicest beams I've ever seen from SF.

Got out the micrometers & the bore gage to verify dimensions & found that all thickness readings are identical to the 6P (not a big surprise). Tried to unscrew the head only to find that it is bonded on tightly to the tube :confused:

I remembered reading an article here on how one member had bored his 6PX, and noticed this photo:

surefireboring1-1.jpg


Pretty easy to see the red Loctite adhesive that bonds the head to the tube. Red Loctite does soften above 325°F, but that sounded like a bad idea considering that the MPCB, emitter, reflector, etc., would all be subjected to this very high temp.

Even if the head had unscrewed easily there's another issue. The back of the MPCB uses no spring contact, but is dead flat:

surefireboring2-1.jpg


Not a problem when using primaries, as primary cells have a positive contact post that sticks up far above the battery body (probably 3mm to 4mm). Many rechargeable cells are flat topped, like the AW cells I use, and a flat topped cell probably will make either poor contact or no contact with the MPCB. I thought about machining up a delrin ring with a copper post in the middle, to act as a positive contact extender, but that will have to wait until my business slows down.

If you have a 6PX and want it bored, there are probably people on CPF that will do it for you. At this time I don't plan to accept any for boring :(
 

precisionworks

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Chris,

I'm pretty sure the C2 will be almost identical to the M2 that was done for Chrisdm (see post #16). If for some reason it cannot be bored, I'll pay return shipping back to you.

This is a great time to send your light in, as I can usually bore it & return it within one business day. My "regular" job at the tool & die shop should pick up soon, but I'll continue to get lights finished ASAP.

I'll PM with shipping info.
 

^^Nova^^

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Hi Barry,

Can you also PM me with your shipping details? I would like to post you my E2E to get you to bore it (I may have a 6P body around here also that could do with boring, I'll see if I can find it).

Cheers,
Nova
 

precisionworks

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I would like to post you my E2E
That light is about to be an international traveler :laughing:

Nova, if you can find the 6P and send it along at the same time, shipping for two lights should cost the same as sending just one. I have a personal E2L to bore, a friend in town also wants his E2L bored, and I plan on boring your E2E at the same time.

PM sent with details ...
 

precisionworks

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I measured a couple of E2L tubes tonight, and those measurements are not what I thought they would be :(

In post #31, I stated " Minimum wall thickness (at the forward O-ring groove) is the same as a 6P..." it is not. In fact, the O-ring groove is .025" smaller than on the 6P. That does still leave an option. As Nova mentioned in post #27 " A 17670 fits 90% of the way but the body narrows near the tail threads. You will have to bore from the head end." I didn't have time to run a bore gage down the tube tonight, but will verify those dimensions tomorrow. The tube can be bored to as much as 17.2mm (.680") to accept the 17670 while still leaving adequate thickness at the O-ring groove.

IMO, a 17670 is the best & most practical option for the E-series lights. Boring for the 18650 can be done, but the walls will be left really thin (about .011"-.012"). There are commercial tubes having that same wall thickness, so it's probably adequate. The battery fit will be almost snug with an AW protected cell, and a RediLast cell will not even enter the tube. Depending on the individual cells you use, the labels may have to be removed ... it's that close.
 
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precisionworks

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Fusion m8,

PM replied to. My wife & I got a good laugh out of your sig line :) She & I have been married (almost) as long as Surefire has been making lights.
 
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