Surefire Nitrolon/AA Equal?

[VegasSteve777]

Hello-

I use my trusty Surefire Nitrolon G2 every night at work. It's not the biggest, baddest nor brightest, but with the higher output lamp, it does the job very well and I tossed my old 3 cell Mag Light in the closet years ago.

My son just started a night shift as well. Although he likes my G2 Surefire, he is supplied with free batteries at work, with exception to the 10yr. shelf life Surefire CR123A batteries.

Does anyone know of a light that uses standard sized batteries (i.e. A/AA/AAA, C etc...... Priced under $100. that comes in a length under 6" equal to my G2?

Thanks for any input!!

~Steve~

 

[lolzertank]

1) Are you fine with rechargables?

2) If you're fine with rechargables, are you willing to use Li-ion cells?

 

[DimeRazorback]

Fenix TK20 may fit what your after, good size and robust design.

Also it has a neutral emitter which will be close to the tint of an incan, to help with nostalgia.

 

[divine]

There are Fivemega AA bodies that fit Surefire heads and tails, but! They are made out of aluminum and are HA III.

I hear a Malkoff M30 runs well off of rechargeables in it.

Now here is something to consider. AA's are 1.5 volts, for you to get the same amount of light out of two AA's as you would out of two CR123's, it will take around 2-3 times the current. (There are other things that make AA's not so favorable, too, but this is a big thing.) Alkaline AA's aren't capable of putting out much more than 1 Amp.

The only way you can get good output from an AA light with alkaline batteries is if you go LED and if you go LED, you will probably need to go with a metal light. Now, you can do around 130 lumens output from a 1xAA light, and you can do around 180-190 lumens output from a 2xAA light.

A good 1xAA is the Quark AA, Nitecore D10, the Jetbeam Jet-I Pro, or the Fenix LD10.
A good 2xAA is the Quark AA2, the Nitecore D20, the Jetbeam Jet-I Pro EX, or the Fenix LD20.

There are plenty other good lights for the money, but these are just some.

 

[jp2515]

Fenix TK20 may fit what your after, good size and robust design.

Also it has a neutral emitter which will be close to the tint of an incan, to help with nostalgia.

Very good choice. The light is made from aluminum but it has rubber grips.

I hear a Malkoff M30 runs well off of rechargeables in it.

If you go this route, try picking up a G3 & a M30 or M30W and you should be set.

You can see runtimes in this thread

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/194879

 

[DimeRazorback]

Just don't run it for too long and melt the G3 :thumbsup:

 

[divine]

If you go this route, try picking up a G3 & a M30 or M30W and you should be set.

You can see runtimes in this thread

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/194879

Please note that if you run Gene's high powered modules in plastic lights for more than 15 minutes you are likely to damage the module.

 

[jp2515]

Please note that if you run Gene's high powered modules in plastic lights for more than 15 minutes you are likely to damage the module.

The OP wanted a Nitrolon light and the G2/G3 are some of the few plastic lights out. If not, why not spring for a Solarforce L2 + 16340 extension?

About the plastic lights, I remember that. When I had a M30 I ran it in a C3 since I heard about the heat issue.

 

[RyanA]

Icon (produced by Paul Kim of Surefire) will be offering a line of polymer aa powered led lights in the future.

 

[Burgess]

Let me add another vote for the Fenix TK20.

:thumbsup:

_

 

[Toaster]

Free batteries at work means alkaline cells. The 2AA lights that are popular here run best on nimh or lithium cells, and do somewhat poorly on alkaline cells. You're better off going with a C cell light in this case. I suggest you take a look at the Lumapower Mentor 2C. 220 lumens for 2.5 hrs on alkaline cells fully regulated. And you can run it in 1C configuration for the same runtime at reduced output (~110 lumens) if you prefer a smaller size.

 

[sappyg]

+1 for the TK20.... this is one amazing flashlight.

 

[Kestrel]

Please note that if you run Gene's high powered modules in plastic lights for more than 15 minutes you are likely to damage the module.

1. Having run the M30 extensively from 2xAA, there seems to be no way it can overheat in any G3 on 2.4v - from my experience, it stays far cooler in an aluminum host in this configuration (2xAA) than an M60 does from 2x LiIon. On 2.4v, the M30 is underdriven and can run at only ~50% output.
2. Gene says that the M60 & the M30 can be run full-bore in a nitrolon host as long as it has the aluminum bezel, although this configuration would only be marginal.

Has anyone even noticed that Gene Malkoff seldom posts on this topic anymore - it's almost like he's tired of trying to set the record straight or something. He's the only manufacturer that actually tries to keep the public informed about heat issues in LED drop-ins, and he's the one who makes the best thermally-managed LED drop in on the market. It's like he's beat up on for even warning users that heat could be an issue (depending on specific configurations). :shakehead

 

[sORe-EyEz]

not really an equal at 6.1".

http://www.pelican.com/lights_detail_specs.php?recordID=2360

 

[greenLED]

+1 for the TK20.... this is one amazing flashlight.

+110