The new Malkoff M61SHO

[thermal guy]

Probably don't matter. It's the same output from 3.8-9 volts. That's what's nice about this.

 

[knucklegary]

@NH Lumens, have you tested the o-ring finger lanyard to failure? (oring not finger)
Just to see how the buna-n (red silicone might be weaker?) treats your finger, in the event flashlight gets ripped out of your hand (by a stampede of buffalo)

 

[ampdude]

Cool white is what generates these high lumens.
I just got the latest-greatest M91T, brighter than my previous edition of M91T and it's pure white. Not even a hint of neutral. But it is a rocket.

Tint is not everything. Lumens matter too.

Pointless blue light does matter, because it's not a good thing. It hurts, doesn't help. If you go for cool tint just because of the lumens specs you are cheating yourself IMO.

 

[NH Lumens]

@NH Lumens, have you tested the o-ring finger lanyard to failure? (oring not finger)
Just to see how the buna-n (red silicone might be weaker?) treats your finger, in the event flashlight gets ripped out of your hand (by a stampede of buffalo)

Not the O-ring itself, but the split ring connector fails (uncoils) with a good tug. I had tested this with a lanyard to confirm that the connector serves as a safety break-away link.

I have to admit though, I did not consider the buffalo scenario. ;-)

 

[NH Lumens]

A bit of yellow around the corona but I kind of expected it. love it

Yes, mine has the same, as does my sample of the M91B. The yellow zone surrounding the corona of both is large and prominent, so IMO it's tough to refer to the overall color temp of these modules as "cool."

 

[340pd]

I am a novice and struggle to describe the actual tint and rings but after reading posts from many of you people who do, I am learning. I went out last night and ran my M61SHO out of a 16.5mm MD2, lens against my garage door and I can only describe it as a ring of white with a hotspot. I have no shadowy rings. There may be a slight color change around the edge of the beam but, this light is not for me to perform brain surgery, I need it to make things as bright as practical.
Someone here said they thought it would be a good bedside light, I could not agree more. Low for 99% but high will light up the entire room to the point where anyone coming at you would be totally blinded. It is everything I wish for, lightweight, small, solid construction, relatively long run time on high, and bright when I need it,

 

[etc]

It's almost twice as bright as the 'regular' M61 but at the expense of 2Amp consumption. I do not see how it can get the same runtime as M61 or M61T.

It's like M91T lumens packed into M61 format but a bit higher lux. (11K versus 8.5K IIRC). I like the higher lux of M91T, which is 19K.

 

[aznsx]

Given all the subjective mentions of cool/warm, etc., let me just ask a simple question with an objective (absolute) reference so I can grasp the 'apparent' color temperature of the M61SHO module in terms I can relate to. (I'm not a 'math guy', but when it comes to LED CT, I like to have a number):

The product web page lists the color temp of this module as 5700 degrees K.

• For those who have one to reference, does this appear to be an (approximately) accurate spec for this module?
• If not, how would you describe the approximate color temp of this module; either using 'ballpark' degrees K, or lower / higher than the 5700K reference?

Thanks for any forthcoming 'real world' observations expressed thusly.

In case you don't have a handy reference 'cheat sheet' photo that you use, this is one I often use which has historically allowed me to approximate color temp of an emitter on a white wall pretty well (even with just 'nominal' screen calibration):

https://nebula.wsimg.com/c0a7561d1a6a5daab692829db941ed14?AccessKeyId=C99B867E55D391A76D29&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

(Source web page is: http://www.americangreenlights.com/color-temperature--color-accuracy-and-color-rendering-index.html)

 

[etc]

I suspect it's the same color temp as my latest-greatest M91T. Pure white and very bright. No ugly blue however.

 

[noobstarr]

Given all the subjective mentions of cool/warm, etc., let me just ask a simple question with an objective (absolute) reference so I can grasp the 'apparent' color temperature of the M61SHO module in terms I can relate to. (I'm not a 'math guy', but when it comes to LED CT, I like to have a number):

The product web page lists the color temp of this module as 5700 degrees K.

• For those who have one to reference, does this appear to be an (approximately) accurate spec for this module?
• If not, how would you describe the approximate color temp of this module; either using 'ballpark' degrees K, or lower / higher than the 5700K reference?

Thanks for any forthcoming 'real world' observations expressed thusly.

In case you don't have a handy reference 'cheat sheet' photo that you use, this is one I often use which has historically allowed me to approximate color temp of an emitter on a white wall pretty well (even with just 'nominal' screen calibration):

https://nebula.wsimg.com/c0a7561d1a6a5daab692829db941ed14?AccessKeyId=C99B867E55D391A76D29&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

(Source web page is: http://www.americangreenlights.com/color-temperature--color-accuracy-and-color-rendering-index.html)

I would say it is 5700k but around the corona has a lot of yellow to the point to where indoors I cannot ignore the yellow. Its very prominent. No blue tint at all

 

[noobstarr]

I received mine yesterday, here (for what they're worth) are my observations and thoughts on this new module;

What originally attracted me to the M61SHO is the increased output on a single Li-ion cell. My plan was to use it with a MD2 body and high/low ring powered by a single 18650 as my "inside the house" night stand light, where the low setting is very useful for tasks such as checking the thermostat setting, and full output used for checking the "bump in the night" situations. I had been using the M91B in this light and after trying the M61SHO, I still am;

View attachment 48051

• MD2 with Orbtronic 18650 flat top inside
• M91B with high/low ring
• LF SW01 Skinny (aka UM00) Tritium Slotted Momentary Tailcap with green tritium insert
• LF GITD grip ring
• LF Z26 lanyard ring
• #206 O-ring and split ring attachment

While the M61SHO certainly lives up to its 825 lumen/11k cd rating, and is substantially brighter than the M91B on a single Li-ion cell (approximately 650 lumens), I found the distinct (and impossible not to notice) rings at the outer edge of the spill too distracting for my intended use. Additionally, the overall spill is not as wide as the M91B and the 11,000 cd is tightly focused into a very small spot in the center of the beam. Between the rings and small hot spot, I find the beam gives a kind of "bullseye target" effect. In this regard, I find the beam pattern of the M91B with its larger Cree XP-L emitter more pleasing and useful for general hand held use, even on a single cell. As a point of reference, I find the E2 Super superior in all regards to a fully-powered M91B, the Bodyguard v.2 even more so.

Replacing a M61T module in my MD3 WML on my shotgun is where the M61SHO earned its new home. Where I found the rings and tight hot spot undesirable for an indoor night stand light, the bullseye beam pattern works extremely well for the WML application, lending itself superbly to rapid point-of-aim acquisition. I'm actually amazed with how well it works for me in this application;

View attachment 48052


The M61SHO would be perfect for use with the Malkoff MDSFFE-2 Forend Light.

Even though I did not end up using it for my original purpose, the M61SHO has proven to be a worthy purchase that has enhanced the performance (and my confidence) with critical SD gear.

For those looking for high output and absolute bullet-proof build quality in a 6P drop-in module - and are not "white wall hunters" - the M61SHO is undoubtedly a top choice.

Completely agree, although I had only a very minor ring around mine. Will post beamshots

 

[noobstarr]

Some beamshots, how does yours look in comparison?

Md2 m61 sho hi/lo
Image 1 Hi: you can see the yellow around corona
Image 2 Hi: you can see the ring on the outside barely noticeable unless I look for it. (Lowered my white balance to capture it better.)
Image 3 Low: Left: Zebralight h600fw xhp35.2 Right: Sho
Image 4 Low: Left: Fenix e12 v2 Right: Sho
Image 5 Low: Convoy l21b 719a 2700k, Right Sho

(Photos were faithful to my eyes but didn't not lock exposure)

 

[NH Lumens]

Beam shot comparison of my samples. Both photos taken in the same spot with an iPhone, imported into Photoshop to crop and make into a single file. Both modules powered by a single 18650 cell in a 16.5 mm Malkoff bezel;

 

[timbo114]

I'm a proud die hard tint snob, and I must ask ....
Does anyone see a green tint in their 5700 SHOs?
I snagged 2 of them, and I swear I'm seeing a greenish cast in the halo nearest the hot spot, coming forth from both.
I then compared them to my Cu Convoy 5700k 519 .. boy THAT was a mistake !
Such an unfair comparison next to a Nichia.

 

[thermal guy]

As long as I dont see pink I'm good 🙂

 

[Kestrel]

As long as I dont see pink I'm good 🙂

Like the second-run M91BN's perhaps ? ;-)

 

[thermal guy]

Lmao exactly!!

 

[340pd]

Some beamshots, how does yours look in comparison?

Md2 m61 sho hi/lo
Image 1 Hi: you can see the yellow around corona
Image 2 Hi: you can see the ring on the outside barely noticeable unless I look for it. (Lowered my white balance to capture it better.)
Image 3 Low: Left: Zebralight h600fw xhp35.2 Right: Sho
Image 4 Low: Left: Fenix e12 v2 Right: Sho
Image 5 Low: Convoy l21b 719a 2700k, Right Sho

(Photos were faithful to my eyes but didn't not lock exposure)

Thanks for showing me how to see for myself what some of you were talking about. If I get up close to a white background, I see exactly what your pictures show. Now, if I put on any of my corrective lenses that have a slight tint, everything changes, or if I move ten feet away, all I get is a great clear beam.

Based on the fact this is not a super cool or close to a "neutral" shade, what is the big deal if the corona has a slight tint of yellow if I hold it very close to a white wall?
I am not trying to be sarcastic, just curious.

 

[noobstarr]

Thanks for showing me how to see for myself what some of you were talking about. If I get up close to a white background, I see exactly what your pictures show. Now, if I put on any of my corrective lenses that have a slight tint, everything changes, or if I move ten feet away, all I get is a great clear beam.

Based on the fact this is not a super cool or close to a "neutral" shade, what is the big deal if the corona has a slight tint of yellow if I hold it very close to a white wall?
I am not trying to be sarcastic, just curious.

Just annoying really, once you see it you can't unsee it. We're getting to the point where we really shouldn't be compromising a terrible tint for a little throw. Led tech has come to far at this point.

 

[noobstarr]

I'm a proud die hard tint snob, and I must ask ....
Does anyone see a green tint in their 5700 SHOs?
I snagged 2 of them, and I swear I'm seeing a greenish cast in the halo nearest the hot spot, coming forth from both.
I then compared them to my Cu Convoy 5700k 519 .. boy THAT was a mistake !
Such an unfair comparison next to a Nichia.

No green on mine just yellow