The SureFire P2X-B "Fury" 500lu flashlight thread
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Toohotruk
Flashlight Enthusiast
I hope you get more than 30 years out of them...good healthy years. :thumbsup:
the badger
Enlightened
Interesting. I recall checking the website and it stated that the Fury (all models) were "600 Lumens." Now when I check it says 500 lumens again!? Strange.
http://www.surefire.com/p2x-fury-8482.html
precisionworks
Flashaholic
Take this FWIW (meaning possibly not much) ... every Fury that I've checked in my shop built sphere runs 600L+ at turn on with fresh batteries (either 2xCR123 or 1x18650). Surefire has always been very conservative in rating their lights.
the badger
Enlightened
Yea, I figure it's a situation similar to the Kroma Milspec. The new ones were listed as "140 lumens" on the website, but now they're listed at 130 Lumens. I think the 600 lumen Fury may never be released.
**I am NOT intending to debate nor do I give a sh*t about a few lumens difference. I'm just making a point about how the SF website changes all the time. I know SF underrate their lights anyways (on that note, I took my X300 Ultra out last night and it was ALMOST as bright as my new Malkoff Neutral Hound Dog. WTF).
Up All Night
Enlightened
- Joined
- May 29, 2012
- Messages
- 487
My 18650 Fury body is finally finished!
PM sent!
tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
do those of you who've gotten your Fury bodies bored out or use Ronac's 18mm body know if the AW 3400 mAh 18650 cells make contact with the head?
PW will be boring my Fury but I know my Fury's head doesn't have a spring or anything at the positive (+) end so I think I need a button top 18650 specifically. I'd love to use a 3400 mAh cell with a steel bottom plate a la AW
PW will be boring my Fury but I know my Fury's head doesn't have a spring or anything at the positive (+) end so I think I need a button top 18650 specifically. I'd love to use a 3400 mAh cell with a steel bottom plate a la AW
ronac
Enlightened
Magnets are provided with the body to be used for the positive end of flat top batteries.
Vox Clamatis in Deserto
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2006
- Messages
- 1,126
I'll offer a note of caution on using those magnets from my past experience:
I had a bad experience with those little magnets on an unprotected blue label buttonless 18650 a few years ago. I used the magnet in an early model (Lux V with the plastic sleeve removed) Surefire U2 and dropped the light while it was on. I was working on a computer and the light rolled under a table and went dark. I was struggling with a connector or something and didn't crawl on my belly like a reptile immediately to retrieve the U2. I figured it was already off, right? After a minute or so I smelled something and grabbed the light, it was too hot to hold. Somehow the magnet had become dislodged, short circuiting the battery. I got the tailcap off in time to prevent a Boeing 787 style mishap but quit using unprotected Li-ion batteries and those little magnets.
I've been able to achieve a similar heating effect by plugging a four pin ATX power connector into a motherboard with the wrong orientation. Just like in a Boeing, a burning smell needs to be checked out NOW.
Looking at my early model SF Fury it appears that if the magnet became dislodged by a fall, and my Fury has drop tested itself more than any other light, the magnet could slide off center and short the top of the battery against side of the wall of the P2X body. If the switch was on the high energy battery would be shorted.
My problem with a magnet in a SF U2 was while using an unprotected blue battery, hopefully the 3400 mAh cells are well protected against a short. But, if they are not or the protection fails there is certainly enough power in that cell to ruin your whole day
in my opinion.And, it is possible that the boring process or ronac's custom body changes the battery tube geometry enough to prevent a short circuit with a battery and flat top cell.
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Eric242
Flashlight Enthusiast
Using a small magnet on a flat top cell to ensure propper contact is not a problem if done right. You just have to use a plastic washer or something similar to prevent the magnet from moving. That´s what I do with my megallennium body from fivemega. I just took a quick picture to show how that works:
The cell with the magnet sits tight in the battery tube without the ability to move back or forth and the washer prevents it to move sideways. No way for an accidental shortcut. In this particular case the magnet is needed because the contact "part" of the body isn´t raised enough.
Same thing needs to be done if one is using a magnet for a spacer. Here´s a picture of 2 AW 18350 cells and a spacer magnet covered/glued in foam I use in a 3x18350 lego light to make contact. Same thing here, the magnet can´t move at all.
Eric
The cell with the magnet sits tight in the battery tube without the ability to move back or forth and the washer prevents it to move sideways. No way for an accidental shortcut. In this particular case the magnet is needed because the contact "part" of the body isn´t raised enough.
Same thing needs to be done if one is using a magnet for a spacer. Here´s a picture of 2 AW 18350 cells and a spacer magnet covered/glued in foam I use in a 3x18350 lego light to make contact. Same thing here, the magnet can´t move at all.
Eric
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It will unscrew from the inside of the tail cap. Just the same way as you install a mcclicky on a solar force or old 6p. Look past the spring and you can see three holes in a triple formation. You stick something like a ring pliers in the holes and unthread the entire switch from the tail cap. Then you can switch boots,install a fet tie or mccliky, or whatever else you want to do. Don't use a punch! Just search on how to install a Mc clicky switch. I am sure there is a tutorial or something on YouTube. I can try to take a picture tomorrow when I get off my shift.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/ygy5eqer.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/30/y5ysazyb.jpg
The lighter grey part of the actual tail cap is the threads. Its pretty straightforward once ya take a peak. Just make sure to twist it the right way. And be gentle. Looks to be a lefty loosy righty tighty thread but don't mark my words. My threads are greasy and its hard for me to see right now.
It actually uses the same threads that the body uses for the tail cap. It is just threaded into the end of the cap. Use tweasers or something small to grip the small three divots and unthread the whole switch from the cap. When you reninstall make sure to not over tighten it, because the three copper wings are what touch the body when you put it all back together. If you over tighten the switch in the tail cap sometimes there can be a gap. If you put it together and it doesn't work, just fiddle with it a bit to get the spacing right. Should only be a matter of quarter turns. There should be a o ring on the boot side of the switch to keep it watertight. I think?
It burns when I Tapatalk...
MAN...this thing is on TIGHT, I bent the tweezers I had trying to unscrew it, I think im going to go to the parts store and see what "tool" I can get to make this process easier.... can't have enough tools right?!
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damnit...I guess I put the tailcap in the oven for too long, and melted the plastic clicky part inside the boot...this sucks! i had to order a new mcclicky, oh well...chalked up as lesson learned! atleast I was able to unscrew the damn thing!
precisionworks
Flashaholic
The only cells I've run in my personal Fury are the Panasonic protected 3400 button tops. These are the ones I currently use: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PANASONIC...US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item5af1b36126
dansciurus
Newly Enlightened
That ain't good. Well, at least you got it out lol. No worse off than if you had used a punch. Make sure to take a few photos for us when you get the mcclicky in. I am curious to see.
Im hoping the mcclicky I got will fit.. its for the z41 tailcaps, I have the 2 stage fury 15 lumens/500 lumens. Hopefully it works out, im without a torch at the moment =( im looking into getting another torch I can clip to my pocket like I do with a knife...maybe something not too expensive like a fenix or something... I will take pics once I get the new mcclicky with the green gitd. All I wanted to do was put a damn green gitd boot in! ended up costing me $30!
dansciurus
Newly Enlightened
As far as it working, it should. I can switch between modes by shorting out the negative to the body with my multimeter. The modes are in the board, in the head. I also hope it works out for ya, because I want a gitd boot too. Make sure to take those pictures. I took my switch apart today with just a ring pliers. It did have a thread or two of red loc-tite in it. (Hate how SF started using that junk. Just makes it harder for us to mess with their good designs haha. The threads are what I don't know about. Whether the fury cap and the z41 cap have the same threads. But just above in a few posts, I seen that someone used a z49 (post#1198) on his original fury body. But I haven't found anyone who put a mcclicky in a z49 cap as of yet. I definitely hope the threading is compatible
. I have a mclicky in my old 6p, but I couldn't seem to get it out tonight, so I can't confirm it will fit. Let us know when ya find out, cause I want gitd too!EDIT!!!!!!! http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?360882-OR-McClicky-Kit-in-a-Fury-Tail I found this searching the site for info. Looks to be that the 6px, and the p2x have the same cap. (CLOSE TOO) It gives hope at least
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tobrien
Flashlight Enthusiast
ah thanks! do those have steel or gold bottom plates?
I think the only flashlights that have no stepdown are the ones from Wisedive that are used for diving but are equally suited for use on land. They use some sort of patented RamFlow cooling system on lights with 5000lumens!
Really cool lights but a bit too large and expensive for my taste...
As far as it working, it should. I can switch between modes by shorting out the negative to the body with my multimeter. The modes are in the board, in the head. I also hope it works out for ya, because I want a gitd boot too. Make sure to take those pictures. I took my switch apart today with just a ring pliers. It did have a thread or two of red loc-tite in it. (Hate how SF started using that junk. Just makes it harder for us to mess with their good designs haha. The threads are what I don't know about. Whether the fury cap and the z41 cap have the same threads. But just above in a few posts, I seen that someone used a z49 (post#1198) on his original fury body. But I haven't found anyone who put a mcclicky in a z49 cap as of yet. I definitely hope the threading is compatible
EDIT!!!!!!! http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?360882-OR-McClicky-Kit-in-a-Fury-Tail I found this searching the site for info. Looks to be that the 6px, and the p2x have the same cap. (CLOSE TOO) It gives hope at least
Well so far so good! All the function works!
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i464/sboonjue/null_zpsec282c06.jpg
http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i464/sboonjue/null_zpsff1cfc89.jpg
Your images are oversize, when you post an image please remember Rule #3
Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels.
Please resize and repost. - Thanks Norm
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