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The Titanium "Haiku"
- Thread starter McGizmo
- Start date
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Don,
I really like it. This seems like a somewhat unintentional extension of the Aleph line... compatibility with E-series bodies, for example, though I don't know enough about the light engine to say it is or isn't swappable with Alephs.
I really like the design of the head, the fins get me every time!
I really like it. This seems like a somewhat unintentional extension of the Aleph line... compatibility with E-series bodies, for example, though I don't know enough about the light engine to say it is or isn't swappable with Alephs.
I really like the design of the head, the fins get me every time!
marcar
Newly Enlightened
Don, I like the concept utilizing the 3S converter and also the higher output. I really like the UI on my Sundrop 3S and I bet this one will be equally amazing I will be in line for one next week.
I will be in line for one next week.
starfiretoo
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'm guessing here but it looks like the dimensions of the head are similar to the venerable A1?
Chronos - As the Ti McClickie pak is compatible with the SF E-series i would say the head is also.
Anyway, the Haiku looks the part of a high performance light with its deep cooling fins. From looking at the IR photos have to guess that they're doing their part? Good luck on your initial release. Good to see a fresh design out of your workshop:thumbsup:
Chronos - As the Ti McClickie pak is compatible with the SF E-series i would say the head is also.
Anyway, the Haiku looks the part of a high performance light with its deep cooling fins. From looking at the IR photos have to guess that they're doing their part? Good luck on your initial release. Good to see a fresh design out of your workshop:thumbsup:
kongfuchicken
Flashlight Enthusiast
Click once, light comes on.
Click twice quickly, light dims down.
Third click dims it more.
Dangnabit, that blows! I'll get back here when I can do this proper!
Click twice quickly, light dims down.
Third click dims it more.
Dangnabit, that blows! I'll get back here when I can do this proper!
The run time tests were done with fresh out of the box SureFire CR123's. The head and pak are "E" series and Aleph compatible. The Light Engine though has different geometry than the XR can based light engines. The head and LE are not compatible with other heads and LE's on a sub component basis, to my knowledge.
It is not obvious in the picture above but this LE is similar to the Nichia 083 LE in the SunDrop in that the MCPCB stands slightly proud of the can with its top surface ~ .015" higher that the top faces of the can's castle points. As with the SunDrop head, the Haiku head also has a shoulder inside the head that the MCPCB gets pressed up against when the LE is tightened in place. This puts the MCPCB in compression between the can and head enhancing the thermal conductivity paths on both the top and bottom of the MCPCB.
The LE threads are already in tension within the head and this is an aid to thermal transfer. When the pak is screwed in tight in the head, the front lip of the pak is forced against the rear shoulder of the can and this contact surface is a good thermal path between LE and pak. The threads of the pak also provide a thermal path between it and the head.
Since both the MCPCB and the can are aluminum, they will expand when they heat up and this expansion should add to the comresssion and reduce the thermal resistance between them and the titanium even further. Titanium will not expand nearly as much as the aluminum. If for whatever reason the light is left on on high and picked up later on, holding it by the tail is much easier on your hand than grabbing it by the head. You cn work you hand up the light as you bleed off the excess heat with your hand.
When I assemble the Haiku head, I first install the LE and snug it tight in the head. I then push the 17-XR reflector down into the bore from the front until it seats around the Cree LED. The silicone O-ring around the reflector provides resistance between the head and reflector and holds it in place. I then install the window seal, window and finally the window retaining O-ring. The Haiku is straight forward in both assembly and disasembly and even the LE can be broken down into its constituent parts, should the need arise. The MCPCB is staked at for points within the confines of the can but it is possible to pry in and separate and lift the MCPCB up from the can. If you desolder the input leads from the contact PCB then the converter can be pulled out and free from the can. I stake the MCPCB in place so that the LE is held together and the MCPCB won't rotate as the LE is installed in the head. once installed, the staking is superfluous.
It is not obvious in the picture above but this LE is similar to the Nichia 083 LE in the SunDrop in that the MCPCB stands slightly proud of the can with its top surface ~ .015" higher that the top faces of the can's castle points. As with the SunDrop head, the Haiku head also has a shoulder inside the head that the MCPCB gets pressed up against when the LE is tightened in place. This puts the MCPCB in compression between the can and head enhancing the thermal conductivity paths on both the top and bottom of the MCPCB.
The LE threads are already in tension within the head and this is an aid to thermal transfer. When the pak is screwed in tight in the head, the front lip of the pak is forced against the rear shoulder of the can and this contact surface is a good thermal path between LE and pak. The threads of the pak also provide a thermal path between it and the head.
Since both the MCPCB and the can are aluminum, they will expand when they heat up and this expansion should add to the comresssion and reduce the thermal resistance between them and the titanium even further. Titanium will not expand nearly as much as the aluminum. If for whatever reason the light is left on on high and picked up later on, holding it by the tail is much easier on your hand than grabbing it by the head. You cn work you hand up the light as you bleed off the excess heat with your hand.
When I assemble the Haiku head, I first install the LE and snug it tight in the head. I then push the 17-XR reflector down into the bore from the front until it seats around the Cree LED. The silicone O-ring around the reflector provides resistance between the head and reflector and holds it in place. I then install the window seal, window and finally the window retaining O-ring. The Haiku is straight forward in both assembly and disasembly and even the LE can be broken down into its constituent parts, should the need arise. The MCPCB is staked at for points within the confines of the can but it is possible to pry in and separate and lift the MCPCB up from the can. If you desolder the input leads from the contact PCB then the converter can be pulled out and free from the can. I stake the MCPCB in place so that the LE is held together and the MCPCB won't rotate as the LE is installed in the head. once installed, the staking is superfluous.
marcar
Newly Enlightened
Will the Ti 2x123 McClickie Pak work with the Haiku?
Thanks, Mike
Thanks, Mike
GeorgeMaggos
Newly Enlightened
Hey Don,
it looks & sounds like a great light Keep up the good work lovecpf
~George
it looks & sounds like a great light
Keep up the good work lovecpf~George
Not with two cells!!! I believe max Vin is around 5V but whatever it is, it certainly can't handle 2x. If you have a 17650 or something like that, you would be OK.
scout24
Flashaholic
I wish you good whale watching- hopefully the weather will cooperate! Very nice looking light, btw. Would be my first foray into your exquisite craftsmanship. Any idea on pricing yet?
Thank you
Greg
Thank you
Greg
smokelaw1
Flashlight Enthusiast
Don,
I hope you know that now I need to decide between another McGizmo and a custom straight edge razor (with Ti scales, in keeping with my addiction) that I have been waiting for for months.
The haiku will, of course, win out.
Fantastic light, and I absolutely cannot wait to see if it takes ENC duties away from the LS20.
--Josh
I hope you know that now I need to decide between another McGizmo and a custom straight edge razor (with Ti scales, in keeping with my addiction) that I have been waiting for for months.
The haiku will, of course, win out.
Fantastic light, and I absolutely cannot wait to see if it takes ENC duties away from the LS20.
--Josh
Negative , A1 uses a 27mm reflector, this one uses a 17mm one ....It does look similar in looks but in dimensions , the A1 is huge....Still looks awesome though...
loveit
Enlightened
I really want one
Of these beautiful new lights!
How much will they be?
Of these beautiful new lights!
How much will they be?
starfiretoo
Flashlight Enthusiast
There goes my memory
Believe i meant A2 McR-20mm reflector:tinfoil:
Reminds me of the early McLux head definitely not the A1
Believe i meant A2 McR-20mm reflector:tinfoil:Reminds me of the early McLux head definitely not the A1
Drywolf
Flashlight Enthusiast
The Haiku is 3 5/8" (92 cm) long.
Nice Don,
A light for us with big hands. Very good looking.
Good Selling!!
:goodjob:
Last edited:
jumpstat
Flashlight Enthusiast
Just a quicky,
Is the o-ring holding the reflector at the window side?
Is the reflector in contact with window?
Thanks.
Is the o-ring holding the reflector at the window side?
Is the reflector in contact with window?
Thanks.
houtex
Enlightened
I never really comment in the McG forum but DAMN! Do you ever make anything that looks ugly? Another beautiful light I'll never get.
