Thrunite TN12 2014 (XM-L2, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIME, VIDEO+

Fra881

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selfbuilt

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do you mean they have exactly the same lumens? (they both are given as 1050 lumens but I thought it was an error, and the nw would have been that 7-10% dimmer)
Thanks for the link.

Typically, Neutral White emitters are one (or two) output bins lower than concurrently shipping Cool White versions. This is due to the extra phosphor required to "warm" up the color temperature (i.e., net effect is to reduce luminus flux, given common manufacturing processes). So that would mean anywhere from ~1-13% lower output (~7% lower on average) for any one bit-step down, depending on where exactly the two samples are within their respective bins.

But you can find Neutral White U2-bins. Although uncommon, there would be no expected meaningful difference in output to a Cool White U2-bin emitter. Of course, they could vary up to ~7% (i.e., depending on where each one is within than common bin). And there are a lot of other variables between actual light samples (i.e. circuit, reflector, etc.) that can modulate that further. But the point is that the output bin is what matters in terms of output - regardless of the tint.

In this case, I see there is at least one other vendor that is reporting NW T6 output bins for the TN12-2014. That would be more in line with expectations (i.e., one output bin down).

You can't discriminate one output bin difference in real life (especially when tint changes), so the only real decision question should be which tint you prefer.

P.S.: As an aside, try not to ascribe too much meaning to tint comparison beamshots. It's not really possible to find a single common camera white balance that will match your relative perceptions.
 
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Fra881

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Thanks for the link.

Typically, Neutral White emitters are one (or two) output bins lower than concurrently shipping Cool White versions. This is due to the extra phosphor required to "warm" up the color temperature (i.e., net effect is to reduce luminus flux, given common manufacturing processes). So that would mean anywhere from ~1-13% lower output (~7% lower on average) for any one bit-step down, depending on where exactly the two samples are within their respective bins.

But you can find Neutral White U2-bins. Although uncommon, there would be no expected meaningful difference in output to a Cool White U2-bin emitter. Of course, they could vary up to ~7% (i.e., depending on where each one is within than common bin). And there are a lot of other variables between actual light samples (i.e. circuit, reflector, etc.) that can modulate that further. But the point is that the output bin is what matters in terms of output - regardless of the tint.

In this case, I see there is at least one other vendor that is reporting NW T6 output bins for the TN12-2014. That would be more in line with expectations (i.e., one output bin down).

You can't discriminate one output bin difference in real life (especially when tint changes), so the only real decision question should be which tint you prefer.

P.S.: As an aside, try not to ascribe too much meaning to tint comparison beamshots. It's not really possible to find a single common camera white balance that will match your relative perceptions.

crystal clear as always ;) thanks, I'll try the nw!
 

The Burgh

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Have invested some time in looking at different vendors of TN12 (2014) as I seek a neutral tint.

Seems to me that the marketing folks have appropriated the term "neutral." I observe that all CWs that are accurately described are XM-L2 U2. The few offerors of NW describe their emitters as XM-L T6.

So emailed IS about their current offering of the XM-L2 U2. They confirmed it to be the CW version, and are hoping to receive in an order of NWs.

Nothing definitive here, just my findings from the (inaccurate) marketplace.
 

BWX

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Another clue is that they are not even selling a NW version on their own website. It is only listed as the CW version.
http://www.thrunite-store.com/thrunite-tn12-2014/

If I could have gotten a NW with same output, I probably would have, but I like the very high output on this one 18650 CW light. Maybe I'll get a another NW version down the road.
 

Billybatson

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Hey guys! I recently bought this light and had a question. When I first got the light I put in a fresh 18650 battery and when I turned the light on it jumped to strobe on its own. So I turned it off and took the battery out, then put it back in and it did it again. It stopped doing it for a while but then started again. Have you guys heard of this before? Any recomendations? Thanks in advance for the help.
 

selfbuilt

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Hey guys! I recently bought this light and had a question. When I first got the light I put in a fresh 18650 battery and when I turned the light on it jumped to strobe on its own. So I turned it off and took the battery out, then put it back in and it did it again. It stopped doing it for a while but then started again.
Aside from doing a thorough contact surface clean, there isn't much that I can think of it. Have you tried another cell? Otherwise, it could be a problem with the light's circuit.
 

AbnInfantry

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On Thrunite's website, only one version of the TN12 is shown. On Amazon.com, the Thrunite Store is selling regular and "neutral white" versions of the TN12. I recently ordered a neutral white TN12 because, on the day I placed my order, it was the only version available on Amazon. This TN12 arrived and nowhere on the box, instruction sheet or flashlight does it mention anything about being "neutral white." Compared with my two Nitecore P12s, however, the beam from this TN12 is definitely warmer or "neutral."

Parts of the TN12's body feel more slim than the P12 and I don't find the TN12's side switch to be "squishy" at all. The TN12's switch is slightly smaller than the P12's, but easier to feel by touch than the P12's.
 
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martinaee

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He noted that some long 18650's are tight. Can someone recommend "shorter" 18650's? Also this light has momentary, right? I didn't see that mentioned, but probably just missed it.
 

oKtosiTe

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He noted that some long 18650's are tight. Can someone recommend "shorter" 18650's? Also this light has momentary, right? I didn't see that mentioned, but probably just missed it.
EagleTac 3100s and 3400s are usually pretty safe bets.
 

BWX

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Hey guys! I recently bought this light and had a question. When I first got the light I put in a fresh 18650 battery and when I turned the light on it jumped to strobe on its own. So I turned it off and took the battery out, then put it back in and it did it again. It stopped doing it for a while but then started again. Have you guys heard of this before? Any recomendations? Thanks in advance for the help.

Just got mine today, and when I put in a battery, it came on in Turbo mode without touching anything.. Turned it off.. Turned it back on, and everything is fine.

Now when I remove battery and put it back in, it doesn't come on at all without touching any switch.. If I turn it on, then remove battery, it will come back on when I put in battery. After all it is a mechanical switch on the back. That is normal.

If I am holding side switch when I put battery back in after disconnecting battery while it is turned on, I can see it might come on in strobe. Actually it doesn't though, but it goes to strobe about 1 second after installing battery if I hold down side switch in that circumstance.
 

selfbuilt

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If I am holding side switch when I put battery back in after disconnecting battery while it is turned on, I can see it might come on in strobe. Actually it doesn't though, but it goes to strobe about 1 second after installing battery if I hold down side switch in that circumstance.
Sorry, I missed this comment earlier. Yes, this is normal for the light. That is, if you click-on (or twist-on, if switch is set to on) while holding down the side mode switch, there is a ~1 sec delay of constant output before strobe starts.

The reason for the delay is the same as if you press and hold the side switch when the light is already on - the circuit waits for ~1 sec of constant mode switch press before turning on the strobe mode (i.e., wants to be sure you intend to enter strobe, and not just change levels). It is exactly the same when first activating the light - there is no power to the side switch until after the clicky switch is pressed, so the circuit has to wait to register the sustained mode switch press.
 

boanerges

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Great review! I do not understand all the graphs, but when you explain in real world-simple terms, that does it for me! Thanks alot!
 

BWX

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Sorry, I missed this comment earlier. Yes, this is normal for the light. That is, if you click-on (or twist-on, if switch is set to on) while holding down the side mode switch, there is a ~1 sec delay of constant output before strobe starts.

The reason for the delay is the same as if you press and hold the side switch when the light is already on - the circuit waits for ~1 sec of constant mode switch press before turning on the strobe mode (i.e., wants to be sure you intend to enter strobe, and not just change levels). It is exactly the same when first activating the light - there is no power to the side switch until after the clicky switch is pressed, so the circuit has to wait to register the sustained mode switch press.

Yup. I was just trying to think of a possible way that strobe would come on when first inserting a battery the way it did for Billybatson. That's pretty odd.
 

selfbuilt

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Great review! I do not understand all the graphs, but when you explain in real world-simple terms, that does it for me! Thanks alot!
No problem, that's why I provide both. :)

The graphs are really very useful if you take the time to compare the individual traces - it really is the best way to convey a lot of complex information quickly and accurately. They are also the most "objective", in that they are direct measures of performance over time. But I realize a lot of people don't necessarily care about the fine details of runtime, and just want to know how the light compares to others out there (in terms of handling, and beam pattern). That's why I can't seem to get away from writing long reviews. :laughing:

Yup. I was just trying to think of a possible way that strobe would come on when first inserting a battery the way it did for Billybatson. That's pretty odd.
Ah, right. In my case, your post reminded me that I hadn't explained the lag in strobe activation in my original post. Since most lights with electronic-only switches proceed directly to strobe (e.g. the new Catapult V5 I just reviewed), I figured I should point out why the TN12-2014 was different in this regard.
 

malocchio

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Wonder when some inventory will show up,all the reputable dealers have been sold out for awhile now....
 
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