• You must be a Supporting Member to participate in the Candle Power Forums Marketplace.

    You can become a Supporting Member.

Sold/Expired Triple Cree XM-L T6 Dropins for D size Mag-Lites

hron61

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 26, 2009
Messages
1,003
Location
lakewood wa.
hi der wichtel. im thinking of ordering a neutral white kit with the single driver. im in the usa and i just cant figure out exactly how much to paypal you.
also, im thinking of running it the same as donn does, in a 3d with 4x26500, do i need to do anything to the tailcap? what would my runtime be with that setup? will it remain regulated for the full run and what would the otf lumens be? sorry for the ? but im a neebie when it comes to building. any beamshots of it?
 
Last edited:

Stephen Wallace

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
628
Location
London, UK
The price is 80 Euros for the single mode drop in, and 3.45 Euros for shipping. You then have the option of paying an additional 2.05 Euros to use registered mail.

So, 83.45 Euros shipped, or 85.50 Euros with registered mail.

With regards to using four IMR (I'm assuming that we are talking about AW IMR cells?) 26500 cells in a 3D Maglite, you are going to need to heavily crop the spring to have space for four C cell batteries. If you have an original tail spring, or a middle generation spring (the type that has three parallel, tight coils at top and bottom of the spring), you can remove the large coil from the bottom the spring (the last large coil in the case of the newer springs), bend up the inner coil, and use that as your spring.

You might be able to get away with just reversing the spring in the tail cap and using it without any modification to the spring. In that case, I would recommend stripping the anodising from inside the tailcap with sodium hydroxide based drain cleaner. Be careful not to get that on yourself - wear gloves.

Other options would be to modify the spring so that you can drop it in to the base of the tailcap (or you could purchase and use a MagC spring) - again, you would need to strip the anodising from the cap.

I'll leave the rest for DW to answer.
 

dizhu

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
35
tried to read how to mod the switch, still don't see that is a reliable mod. at a loss....
 

Der Wichtel

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 12, 2007
Messages
829
Location
Germany
Thanks Stephen for your help.

As for the regulation, yes the light will stay in regulation with 4 lithium ion batteries until they are empty
 

wolfy

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 13, 2010
Messages
326
Location
Wollongong, Australia
My kit arrived this morning, and i have just finished installing it into a 4D Mag (using 4xLiIon). I modified the standard Mag switch for use with the Ver.A driver, and added a glass AR coated lens. When I turned it on, the amount of light coming from the front was simply impressive for something that took under an hour to build.

I did a ceiling bounce test with a cheap light meter to compare light output to an Olight SR90, and the readings indicated the triple XM-L Mag kit was putting out about 50% more light (at about 28W). Of course the SR90 has a tighter focus and better throw, but the DerWichtel Mag Triple XM-L kit puts out more light and at a lower overall cost. Very nice kit, thanks Yitao.
 
Last edited:

dizhu

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
35
My kit arrived this morning, and i have just finished installing it into a 4D Mag (using 4xLiIon). I modified the standard Mag switch for use with the Ver.A driver,

Which method do you use for modifying the switch? The one in the first post?
 

wolfy

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 13, 2010
Messages
326
Location
Wollongong, Australia
I didnt read the first thread, but after looking at it, my method is very similar. Electrically my method does the same thing, I just dont have to drill as many holes through the switch. Also the method for setting it up as a momentary switch is pretty much the same.

My method I did still drill a hole through for a positive feed from the spring, but straightened the bottom metal contact (that normally contacts the positive plate) and turned the locking nut plate around and soldered the longer contact (which normally runs up the stalk to the bulb) to the straightened contact plate. This way I can solder the negative from the driver to the short stub from the locking screw, the positive to the wire running from the spring (and only hole that needs to be drilled) and the control to the center contact at the top of the switch.
 
Last edited:

dizhu

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
35
I didnt read the first thread, but after looking at it, my method is very similar. Electrically my method does the same thing, I just dont have to drill as many holes through the switch. Also the method for setting it up as a momentary switch is pretty much the same.

My method I did still drill a hole through for a positive feed from the spring, but straightened the bottom metal contact (that normally contacts the positive plate) and turned the locking nut plate around and soldered the longer contact (which normally runs up the stalk to the bulb) to the straightened contact plate. This way I can solder the negative from the driver to the short stub from the locking screw, the positive to the wire running from the spring (and only hole that needs to be drilled) and the control to the center contact at the top of the switch.
Thanks. Will study it with a switch on hand when I am free.
 

RCantor

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 11, 2011
Messages
593
Location
KC, MO
For use in unknown forests, the 4300K tint is the best. For me a neutral will be 000LT40F5. 5000K is too blue.
 

jdriller

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 9, 2003
Messages
1,059
Location
New York
Got my drop in. This is a killer light. It puts out a massive amount of light. I am using it in a 4d mag. Good work Der Wichtel!!
 

beekeeper5

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jul 18, 2010
Messages
161
:paypal:

1 x Triple XML with Version A in white (6500k) - 85
1 x International shipping - 3.45
1 x Registered post - 2.05

Paypal 90.50 EUR
 

PapaLumen

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
801
Location
UK
I like the look of these but already have the triple p7.. Have you thought about designing a triple triple xpg sink? Those triple's really throw out some lumens. Id jump on one in a moment even if i had to source led's/driver. Just a thought.
 

Stephen Wallace

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
628
Location
London, UK
I think by 'triple triple', PapaLumen is after nine XP-G emitters, rather than making a direct swap from three XM-Ls to three XP-Gs - something like the Mac 3300L.
 

PapaLumen

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
801
Location
UK
I think by 'triple triple', PapaLumen is after nine XP-G emitters, rather than making a direct swap from three XM-Ls to three XP-Gs - something like the Mac 3300L.

Yes exactly, 3 triple xpg boards not just 3 xpg's. I guess the pockets not so deep so the triples with their carclo optics end up right behind the glass...

I have a couple of bike lights using 2x triple xpg boards in each ala mathewm on here. They are crazy bright. A triple triple would be the daddy.
 
Last edited:

PapaLumen

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
801
Location
UK
hmm yeh i suppose now i think about it they should be similar in output. How about 4x triples? They fit...
 

Der Wichtel

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 12, 2007
Messages
829
Location
Germany
sure, there is enough space.
You can even put 3x SST-90 in it but the Mag-Lite can't dissipate more heat. That's why 3 XM-L configuration is the maximum in my opinion.
 
Top