TrustFire TR-J1

[Doc Ed]

Maybe you could verify first if it was the driver that burned out or the LED.

However, if a mod is indeed in your future, you'd probably need a FET to make the light work with your reed. Given the current requirements for the XML, I opted to go with a Taskled Hall Latching switch and a user program selectable driver from DX as well.

 

[andrew_t]

Thank you for your reply.

The led is ok because it is on all the time. The driver was not meant for 7+volts so it didn't had any voltage regulation and probably one of the hall switches got burned out. Right now the light is on all the time at the max position. I am sure that there are other switches burned out as well.
Conclusion : The xml led is ok but the driver is not.

The Taskled Hall Latching is nice. It shows that it can drive a led but I don't know if it can drive the xml. However adding too many components ( taskled+driver from dx) increases the mod cost and it makes it not cost effective (a new light costs $20 and the taskled+driver+p&p seems to top at +/-$20 also). Right now I will try the easy solution and I will contact the trustfire directly for a replacement driver .

 

[andrew_t]

I have bought and installed the 8x7135 105c driver and the light is really powerful. It took a bit of drilling to the light to install a reed switch (3A) to turn it on but the result is good. I drilled the pill of the light to fit the reed switch and the outer ring because I replaced the magnet as well. I took a magnet from an old dvd pickup! because the original was too small to turn the reed switch on.
I have made the j1 to a test bench light for various stuff...
I have found this led
http://www.lightmalls.com/395nm-uv-led-emitter-wth-16mm-board
because I want to turn the tr-j1 to a uv light. However I can't find any info on this led. Does anyone know a good uv led for the 105c driver I installed to the tr-j1?

 

[andrew_t]

Just a note on this light and its bigger brother the tr-j2. Don't use unprotected batteries because it drains them. The light even in the off position drains the bateries through the 5 hall switches it has. The off position does not cut the power to the hall switch. So you have 5 switches that drain power and the batteries are getting empty. Batteries with no discharge protection will be dead after a few days!.

 

[Doc Ed]

Good thing you brought that up. It was brushed upon lightly in the review series on Scubaboard but never really discussed here. A review of some of the seller's literature brings up advice on slightly unscrewing the tailcap when the light is being stored to prevent inadvertent discharge of the light. The "off" position is probably better described as a "stand-by mode." I'll check tail-cap current next time when the light is in that mode and see how much drain there is.

 

[Doc Ed]

Here's an update:

The edges of the hole for the lanyard might be a bit too sharp. I recently had BOTH of my bolt snaps sheared off from the lights when the cave line got cut by the edges. Took a dremel and 'softened' the edge a bit so hopefully it'll be gentler on the cave line. Good thing my bungees held the lights in place!

 

[SmokedCPU]

Hi

I got a such light and removed medium and strobe reed.
Its better this way. If batt are low, medium will not extend the duration enought to worth the cost, and strobe ...

I also changed the Oring with better one. Light then pass the 125psi test.


See ya

 

[paddle]

Hey,

I just got one of these and have had no luck getting the attack crown off. Should it just screw off or am I missing something?

Thanks

 

[andrew_t]

It can be unscrewed it's just too tight from the factory. Try again with more force...

 

[JoelSim]

Good thing you brought that up. It was brushed upon lightly in the review series on Scubaboard but never really discussed here. A review of some of the seller's literature brings up advice on slightly unscrewing the tailcap when the light is being stored to prevent inadvertent discharge of the light. The "off" position is probably better described as a "stand-by mode." I'll check tail-cap current next time when the light is in that mode and see how much drain there is.

Hmmm...this could be interesting to check. I would quite happily remove all hall sensors(?), aside from high, if it were to significantly reduce the drain when it's in 'off' position (standby).

I have a couple of times now forgotten to unscrew the tailcap or remove the battery.....

 

[SmokedCPU]

Hi all

replaced the Oring;15x2 duro70 its fine.

somebody got galvanic corrosion on his TJ-J2 on DX (in the pictures). Is there any user here that got this trouble ??? If yes, how long does it take ?

I had this problem previously on an other model that served as backup, It was made of aluminium, and relyied on tail-cap contact to activate.... the 2 LiIon cells caused a huge potential of voltage and punctured the light in around 15-20h of sea diving.

thanks

 

[AF_Jim]

This is a long shot, but I just got the TR-J1 about a week ago. They neglected to send a charger so I'm still waiting for that in the mail, but I opened it up once to check it out and now none of the modes work. It still turns on fine, but it won't adjust to medium or low or strobe. It worked when I got it. The magnet is still in the little slit, so I'm at a loss on where I can even begin to troubleshoot it. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[DIWdiver]

Is it possible that the board with the sensors on it is now rotated from where it was before? That would make the magnet ring not work right.

 

[SmokedCPU]

This is a long shot, but I just got the TR-J1 about a week ago. They neglected to send a charger so I'm still waiting for that in the mail, but I opened it up once to check it out and now none of the modes work. It still turns on fine, but it won't adjust to medium or low or strobe. It worked when I got it. The magnet is still in the little slit, so I'm at a loss on where I can even begin to troubleshoot it. Anyone have any ideas?

You need to open the complete thing, as described in the pictures in the previous pages. I open them this way, and I remove MID and STROBE by removing the small magnet captor. Your captors may be defect or welded strangely...

 

[DimitrisV]

I used two trustfire to make small video lights as the goodman version of Light For Me
I changed the reflectros with 60 degrees.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TwDWvqUNYk (greek :duh2

And this is my first try http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFvi9fVM8qw

 

[andrew_t]

I used two trustfire to make small video lights as the goodman version of Light For Me
I changed the reflectros with 60 degrees.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TwDWvqUNYk (greek :duh2

And this is my first try http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFvi9fVM8qw

what reflectors did you use?

 

[DimitrisV]

From ebay 221175825976

I didn't remove the original reflector. I glued the 60 degrees reflector into the original.
You need to remove the white plastic cover.

BR
Dimitris

 

[OS74]

Do you mean you just kept the clear platistc collimator part and glued it to the glass?

Cheers
/O