Unprotected R123s - **NOT** RECOMMENDED

KevinL

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<font color="red">See the disastrous ending as for my reasons why it's not recommended. </font>




I got 4 of the unprotected R123s from s2k today, and these are my first impressions.

If you are planning to buy them, please read item #60 in the MicroFAQ about lithium ion safety. Remember: stay safe. Handle these cells with respect and they will deliver the performance you want. Nobody but yourself is responsible for your own actions.

First off, the quality of the construction is really impressive. I wasn't expecting it, but the cells have a really solid feel to them, and they look great. No kinked/slanted cells, no creased shrinkwrap, these cells are well built indeed. They're normal height, same as the CR123s we're all used to, and their build quality is outstanding.

That's not the only thing. The charger feels great, too. Instead of one big wallwart and a charger, the electronics are fully self-contained - no wallwart, everything is packaged into the charger. Electrical contacts are solid as well, in fact it takes a little bit of pressure to insert cells into the charger. You can tell these will last. No tweaking of the contacts needed.

This charger is a two-channel, two-bay platform. In plain english, you can charge one cell at a time, or two at a time, whichever you prefer. Charging current is 300mA with automatic charge control and termination. When powered on, the single LED turns green. When the cells are charging, the LED turns red, when both bays are fully charged, the LED turns green again. Simple and intuitive. The cells get barely warm during charging, and most of the time you are unlikely to even notice. According to the packaging, the charger runs at 110-240V, so you can take it with you when you travel. Since I live in the Rest of the World, I run the charger on 220VAC, but I definitely appreciate the autoranging feature - same deal with my laptop, it works wherever my work takes me.

Did I mention its small size helps a lot when you travel, too?

s2k informed me that the cells, fresh out of the package, hold a charge and can be used immediately. I bought 4 cells, so I put 2 in the charger, and wondered why the LED didn't turn red.. in other words, the cells were already FULLY charged - fresh from the factory. I'm guessing that it means they are very new stock, because they haven't had time to self-discharge very much. Either that, or their self-discharge rate is extremely low, which is a Good Thing.

The only issue is that the open-circuit voltage is 4.0V (confirmed by DMM), and this results in a charge cutoff of 3.8V, thus the cells do not reach full capacity. s2k has informed me that all you need to do is adjust a potentiometer inside the charger with a screwdriver while measuring open circuit voltage with the DMM to tweak it to 4.2V. I will get to this later when he posts instructions on how to do it. This is also why I haven't done runtime tests - it wouldn't be fair to do them on cells that are not fully charged.

up-r123-1.jpg

up-r123-3.jpg

up-r123-4.jpg

up-r123-2.jpg


As you can see, my initial set of tests was done with two Surefire KL1s (one stock, one boosted to 500mA) running on both 1 and 2-cell bodies. Both work fine. However, you must take *EXTRA* care not to deep-discharge the cells, because the KL1s are so efficient at sucking power from batteries that they will very easily kill these. When I tried it on mine, one cell came out at 1.98V, the other one at 2.3V. The danger mark is 2.5V - these two cells.. well, guess I might just be buying more cells soon if I don't ease up, but someone's gotta do the testing.

Of more interest is the Surefire C2 and the 6P, equipped with P90 and P91 lamps respectively. Project C2-90 (in my sig) has been documented well, and performs equally well whether using protected or unprotected cells. However, this is the first time I'm operating a P91 lamp using these R123s - the protected cells cannot withstand the current draw of a P91. The 6P is running on 2xR123 and WOW - the P91 sure is bright. I used to run the P91 with 3 cells and an A19 adapter, and I can definitely say it is just as bright when running on R123s.

Hpwever, those batteries sure go quick when you're playing around. The worst part that I was wandering around in the dark at home with just the 6P-91, and the light gave me about 30 seconds of warning before brightness dropped to nearly nothing. This is almost as bad as the protected cells, but the unprotected's give you more warning time. The protected ones simply cut off.

Of course I had to stumble around in the dark to retrieve another light. Not a good thing to happen to a flashaholic /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

A quick check with the DMM found I'd nearly killed the cell too, it was measuring around 2.3V!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif the cell seems to be a lot better now that it's recovering in the charger, but with unprotecteds you really have to be careful. The MOMENT you can detect any dimming, douse the light and switch to your backup light. Having a DMM around to measure the voltage of the R123s goes a long way to teaching you how far you can push them.

Do not however attempt to measure 'flash amps' by setting the DMM to 10A scale and shorting the R123s. I tried this (you should not) VERY briefly, just brushing the tip of the probe against the cell, and it was already enough to strike sparks. I usually get sparks when current hits around 7-10A, so believe me, these cells can, and will sink a huge amount of current into a dead short - so ensure that they never get shorted. A Surefire SC1 or appropriate cell carrier will go a long way towards helping you carry them safely.

I figure the moral of the story is that whenever you are dealing with rechargeable lights, you MUST carry a secondary backup light that is preferably running on primary cells. R123s are great stuff, whether protected or unprotected, but have a nasty tendency to leave you in the dark when you need it most, whereas the slow steady dimming of lithium 123s gives you a LOT more time to react. This is also the reason why my EDC rig is based on an E1e+KL1 running exclusively on primary cells (in fact, ONLY Surefire cells), plus Project C2-90.

Conclusion - highly recommended as long as strict handling precautions are followed. I'm definitely looking forward to using these in Project Rice Rocket, which will involve adding an A19 cell extender, Turbohead, and MN60/61 to the 6P.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

flashlight

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

As usual, an excellent write-up with important caveats. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 

cy

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

good to know about the internal pot, to adj output
 

Revierler

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

Just how long does the &p-91 run on a freshly charged set?
Will the P60/61 lamp assemblies stand the higher current of these cells?
 

s2k

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

thanks for the GREAT review Kevin, wow that's very helpful. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif

simply adjust the charging voltage will give these batts full power, thanks to my friend Simon, he also did some tests.

in his tests, after 4.0v charging, this battery can only last 40 mins in ARC LS, but after he adjust the charging voltage to 4.3v, a fullly charged batt can power the same ARC LS 90 mins in high mode! this is 125% improvement!

i'll post how to adjust that later when i get my multi-meter repaired, should be within this week.

regarding the runtime on P90/91, i got about 30 mins on P90 and 15-16 min on P91 with 4.2v fully charged batteries. that's really impressive. the light become really hot after testing /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

again, handle them carefully, keep the discharging current under 2C (capacity * 2, 1.3A in this case) if you don't want to "over drive" it.
 

MR Bulk

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

Is them nimhs or is them li-ons?
 

cy

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

them's Li-ions ,,,

I measured 14amp dead short on the 550 milliamp bare version.

been measuring milliamp draw against batt, but will start measuring voltage under load. I'm interested to find out real life voltage drop with li-ion.

luxeons seems to run cooler under a much higher load with li-ion VS primary lithium.

sure be nice, if someone could come out with a slim button containing protection.
 

oldtimer

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

Hmm, just wondering.. you wern't you afraid that they'll blow up by running in parallel?

How about the Arc LS? Isn't the voltage too high.
 

Revierler

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

So I can safely run 2 R123s in my C2, 6p or M2 without damaging the lamp as long as I use the P90 assembly? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/stupid.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/au.gif
 

cy

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

I'll take one of the last R123 chargers..
 

KevinL

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

Revierler: the voltage of rechargeable 123s is much higher than normal lithium CR123 batteries, 4.2V as opposed to 3V. Two of them together would be 2x4.2V = 8.4V, better suited to a 9V lamp than a 6V lamp.
 

KevinL

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

Glad you guys found the review useful /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I figured out how to mod the charger thanks to a couple of tips from s2k. This mod can be dangerous while you are trying to do it because the charger is powered from 110-240VAC, and thus there is live mains voltage under the cover. DISCONNECT EVERYTHING and apply proper lockout/tagout procedures before you start. Even then, beware that capacitors, of which there are a few, will hold a charge even when powered off.

I was going to post it, but somehow, the network gods ate my post en route to CPF, perhaps as a hint that I should keep my mouth shut. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif (never had a post eaten till today..)

"Work thou not on energized equipment, for if thou dost, thy fellow workers will surely buy beers for thy widow and console her in other ways. -- Seventh Commandment for Technicians

Mom's gonna be a little more than mad if you kill or maim yourself too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif


Anyway, since I'm still alive to post this and all ten fingers are functional, I'll soon have some cells cookin' at 4.27V (open circuit voltage). Keep you folks posted.

In the meantime, I conducted a runtime test on my P91. The darn thing lasted just FIVE MINUTES before dimming orange - I knew something was wrong! The last two runs lasted barely minutes too. The bad news is that you practically have to do this charger mod.

Some pix while we are waiting:
vr123-mod5.jpg


Hey, anybody seen my limited-edition Surefire coffee stirrer?
 

TheSteve

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

Any chance someone can do a computerized discharge of the 650ma cells to see the true useful capacity? I can do them on the slavin4u rechargable CR123s so we can compare numbers.
I have a Schulze 330D and Victor Engineering IQ3000s. So far the slavin cells can provide a full 600ma at a reasonable discharge rate when charged to 4.1 volts.
 

KevinL

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

Now for the true purpose of the coffee stirrer.. that is actually my test rig for ultra high performance, ultra-HOT lights. 3 minutes of the P91 and the 6P feels like a hot cup of coffee with no handle.

(Surefires are assuredly dunkproof if you maintain them.)

The cells came off the charger at 4.07V. JSB's cells always come out at exactly 4.20V. I didn't want to tweak the charger too much, now that I have done the 'upgrade', it does get warm to the touch.

vr123-mod6.jpg


My lithium ion charging setup - non-flammable wall tile, and two fire extinguishers, second one not shown (mounted near the exit door so I can grab it as I bail out).... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

OK, so maybe you don't need to go to such extremes and no it didn't burn my house down as I left it on all night, but a fire extinguisher is always good to have. (now where can I get those nice 10-pound Halon1301s?)

Onto the real purpose of this post: runtime and evaluation of modified charger and cells.

A timed test with the P91 lasted 15 minutes before the light dimmed to a point where I opted to cut the test off to avoid damage to the cells. By this stage, the light has dimmed to worse-than-2AA-flashlight brightness.

The most surprising part: where before, the cells would literally drop to dangerously low voltage levels, dimming from bright to nearly useless in as little as 15 seconds, after the charger mods, I get a slow, steady dimming over the last 2 minutes of service life, giving me more than ample notification that the cells are about to go, and go soon. This is the dimming I expected, not 90 to 0 in 15 seconds. I hardly even had time to grab for the tailcap to cut off power! Runtime has been drastically improved, to 15 minutes up from 5 minutes.

Most importantly, the cells measured around 3-3.1V after coming off the light, instead of a dangerous 2.3V. So not only does the charger mod improve runtime, it helps protect the cells against a dangerous overdischarge condition. It actually improves operational safety because there is less chance a cell will discharge to unsafe levels, or worse, reverse-charge.

I highly recommend the charger mod if you have the technical skill to carry it out. The improvements across the board are amazing.

You'll also notice your cells take longer to charge, this is normal. Apparently, most of the capacity is gained by charging them to 4.1V nominal instead of 3.8V.
 

gregw

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

Is there going to be a write up on how to mod the charger to charge the battery up to 4.2v? That will definitely make it more useful. I'm having to use magnets to hook my R123s to my Schulze 330D to get it up to 4.2v.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I have the exact same charger and it currently only charges to 3.82V..
 

cy

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

at 3.8V your R123 cell is aprox. 2/3 charged
 

TheSteve

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

[ QUOTE ]
gregw said:
Is there going to be a write up on how to mod the charger to charge the battery up to 4.2v? That will definitely make it more useful. I'm having to use magnets to hook my R123s to my Schultz 330D to get it up to 4.2v.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I have the exact same charger and it currently only charges to 3.82V..


[/ QUOTE ]

Are you using the LiIo setting or LiPo to charge the cells? LiIo has a cutoff of 4.10, LiPo has a cutoff of 4.20. I've been using the LiIo and my cells always finish at 4.10 or 4.11.

There seems to be several opinions on what the proper cutoff voltage is for Lithium Ion. For 3.6 volt cells its 4.10, for 3.7 volt cells its 4.20, the difference depends on what the anode material is inside the cell, coke or graphite - problem is most places don't seem to really know if they are 3.6 or 3.7 volt cells...
I get rated capacity of my cells using 4.10 volts, so I'm gonna stick with that for now.
 

gregw

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

LiIo... Actually when the Schulze finishes charging, the cells are around 4.12v.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

That said, it's a hassle setting up the Schulze to charge these little cells since I have it setup for Lipo for my RC stuff.. Also, since I don't have a proper cradle to contain the cells, I'm just using magnets to hook up the wires to the cells...
 

KevinL

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

gregw.. I take it that you're comfortable with a DMM and working near 220VAC? The thing about this charger is that it brings live wall socket power right into the charger itself. I was kinda concerned someone would open it up, get zapped, and make all of us look bad /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

gregw

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Re: High-cap unprotected R123s - first impressions

I'm pretty cautious around live 220V... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Please post the instructions so I can at least have a guide, otherwise, I'd probably open it up anyway and poke around.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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