VaraPower Turbo

[Fresh Light]

There were 3 VPTs available, I know they are hard to get
http://www.lambdalights.com/varaorders.html

 

[JudasD]

I would really love to see some beamshots of VPT domed 6,500 vs. VPT dedomed 6,500 vs. TK70. That would be awesome! I only ask for TK70 since that is the brightest light that i own and would love to see a VPT compared against it so i can see bright the VPT actually is.

JD

 

[Fresh Light]

While I am really happy that Olight and Fenix have produced industry leading output lights, but the lights that I've purchases from domestic manufacturers have been by far more impressive. Compare the Olight pic above with a large brass heat sink to the huge, 6.2oz, heat sink on the VaraPower lights. The production VPT had to cut down the Cu heat sink a small amount but was made up and more by the large Al finned connector. The VaraPower lights have over 30 levels so they can be used where super low light is desired and no strobe to skip over or think about, SR90 makes it available by double clicking but I consider it an unnecessary annoyance. But my opinion is that this is the most significant LED light that I have yet to see, it is really that good.

 

[BLUE LED]

I noticed this a few days ago on the Lambdalights page, but haven't heard anything about it. I did a search, but didn't turn up anything...


Any details? anybody going to get one?

All I have found is a few images from another forum, and a few stats

5700K with LED dome lens in place:
115,000 lux @ 12.84 Amps

6500K with LED dome lens removed:
165,000 lux @ 11.60 Amps

I have the new VPT with the dome removed. It is a staggering 200,000 lux. I couldn't believe it, so I took measurements 7 times. I was going to buy the Olight SR90, but the Varapower Turbo caught my eye. I liked that it was smaller and used batteries that I could easily replace. The control ring is especially nice with lots of different outputs. This monster thrower makes me smile. I really like high output throwers. My unit has a surprising amount of side spill and lights up a large area. I thought that would be the case for the dome version. This is one of my best buys.

 

[Fresh Light]

200k lux, that is amazing, do you have any other lights for comparison with your meter? What is the Amps? You'll have to get a beamshot at the longest distance you can find! I think it's funny people ask about the runtime on high. Really it's prob just 3 to 4 min before it's going to get too hot to hold. But i don't think i've ever had it at high more than just a min or so at a time. Thanks

BTW I do have the 75mm DX glass aspheric and it is a bit thicker than the one that I have that Saab made for the DEFT. The glass one does work and could be good but the DEFT lens and spacer ring gave a significantly tighter brighter spot.

 

[djans1397]

So can you just simply screw on the DEFT lens/head onto the VPT light?

I just stumbled onto this thread and WOW! What a hell of a light! I've been wanting a SR90 but after seeing the VPT... this is the one I want! I plan on ordering one now, but have a few questions...

I get the dedoming deal, more lux but less lumens, but I don't really understand what the pros/cons are. Is it brighter? throw further? etc. I guess I've always been a little confused on what lux vs lumens really means.

Thanks,
Dan

200k lux, that is amazing, do you have any other lights for comparison with your meter? What is the Amps? You'll have to get a beamshot at the longest distance you can find! I think it's funny people ask about the runtime on high. Really it's prob just 3 to 4 min before it's going to get too hot to hold. But i don't think i've ever had it at high more than just a min or so at a time. Thanks

BTW I do have the 75mm DX glass aspheric and it is a bit thicker than the one that I have that Saab made for the DEFT. The glass one does work and could be good but the DEFT lens and spacer ring gave a significantly tighter brighter spot.

 

[berfles]

I would really love to see some beamshots of VPT domed 6,500 vs. VPT dedomed 6,500 vs. TK70. That would be awesome! I only ask for TK70 since that is the brightest light that i own and would love to see a VPT compared against it so i can see bright the VPT actually is.

JD

Ditto. What I really want to see/know:

VPT vs TK70
VPT vs SR92
Domed vs de-domed
How long can you have it on at its highest output?

Kind of crazy I went from never wanting a lighter larger than my TK35 to saying "you know, I can make something like this work" just because it appears to be so insanely bright.

 

[JudasD]

I have the new VPT with the dome removed. It is a staggering 200,000 lux. I couldn't believe it, so I took measurements 7 times. I was going to buy the Olight SR90, but the Varapower Turbo caught my eye. I liked that it was smaller and used batteries that I could easily replace. The control ring is especially nice with lots of different outputs. This monster thrower makes me smile. I really like high output throwers. My unit has a surprising amount of side spill and lights up a large area. I thought that would be the case for the dome version. This is one of my best buys.

200K is insane! did you go with a 6500 or a 5700? I have a 6500 coming in with the dome still on. Kevin says he got a 130k on it. I cant wait for it to show up!

 

[Fresh Light]

I am partial to the warmer tints, 4500k is great, but since it to my knowledge is not available in a N or P flux bin, I go with the 5700 since it is, along with the 6500k. The 6500 does put out higher lumens and that is great for some people but I think a hundred or two lumens out of more than 2000 is acceptable. I've thought about getting a TK70, but the 3XML Hydras put out way more light, more floody but they are only 2D mag size compared to the 16 inch TK70.
This VPT 5700k is my 4th SST-90 Lambda light and it is by far the brightest of any light that I have owned. The other SST-90 VaraPower lights are the 6500k domed and another Dedomed and a 5700 Dome intact. The 6500k lights do put out more measurable light, but to me they are not as bright. I'm not sure what color temp the SR90 uses, but usually they uses the highest output so prob the 6500k.
I think others that own one of these things would agree that after you have used one of these everything else seems weak. Not to mention the 30 or so power settings so it is useable without messing up night vision.

 

[BLUE LED]

200K is insane! did you go with a 6500 or a 5700? I have a 6500 coming in with the dome still on. Kevin says he got a 130k on it. I cant wait for it to show up!

I went for the 6500k without the dome for more throw. You do lose some lumens, but the extra lux is compensation. It all comes down to personal preference. The classic debate lux over lumens.

 

[BLUE LED]

I tested the VPT Dedome 6500k with 4x Powerex 5000mAh C cells. It started at 199,980 lux. I know it's a little down on my first 7 tests which showed 200,000 lux. I used a stop watch and ran it on maximum output for 12 minutes. The new aluminium heat-sink really makes a difference. The lux after 12 minutes was 144,600 lux. I could have gone on longer, but I wanted to preform a test test with the 3xD Powerex 22,000mAh. I ran this for 8 minutes and it was only warm.

 

[BLUE LED]

Some lux readings for a few of my other lights.
VPT Dedome 6500k 4xC cells 200,000 lux
VPT Dedome 6500k 3xD cells 138,210 lux
Wolfeyes 24w Boxer HID 83,140 lux
Wolfeyes 10w Boxer HID 69,800 lux
Dereelight DBS-T EZ900 R2 2MT-S, 64,300 lux
Deft EDC 39,100 lux
Deft EDC LR 50,300 lux
Crelant 7G5 56,800 lux
Olight M3X 55,200 lux
Eagletac M3C4 XM-L 41,000 lux
Olight SR92 44,310 lux

 

[BLUE LED]

I have a Canon EPS 5D mark II, but have the artistic talent of a iPhone 4S switched off. Plus my digital multimeter is no longer working. I will have to buy another one along with a tripod and ask friends for advice on photography techniques.

I will try to make time to preform some detailed tests, as my long awaited Crelant 7G5 V2 is still on transit to me.

 

[JudasD]

Out of curiosity, what type of light meter are you using?

JD

 

[The_Driver]

I am partial to the warmer tints, 4500k is great, but since it to my knowledge is not available in a N or P flux bin, I go with the 5700 since it is, along with the 6500k. The 6500 does put out higher lumens and that is great for some people but I think a hundred or two lumens out of more than 2000 is acceptable. I've thought about getting a TK70, but the 3XML Hydras put out way more light, more floody but they are only 2D mag size compared to the 16 inch TK70.
This VPT 5700k is my 4th SST-90 Lambda light and it is by far the brightest of any light that I have owned. The other SST-90 VaraPower lights are the 6500k domed and another Dedomed and a 5700 Dome intact. The 6500k lights do put out more measurable light, but to me they are not as bright. I'm not sure what color temp the SR90 uses, but usually they uses the highest output so prob the 6500k.
I think others that own one of these things would agree that after you have used one of these everything else seems weak. Not to mention the 30 or so power settings so it is useable without messing up night vision.

As is noted here, 4500k SST-90s are in fact avalaible in Bin N . I'm thinking of getting one during the next few months :devil:.


By the way has anyone found a diffusor for the turbo?

 

[Fresh Light]

As is noted here, 4500k SST-90s are in fact avalaible in Bin N . I'm thinking of getting one during the next few months :devil:.


By the way has anyone found a diffusor for the turbo?

Well that's the new Bin N since they changed their binning. The old Bin N is now P. P is the top flux bin. But like you said they are available in Bin N and still very bright.

 

[Bronco]

I get the dedoming deal, more lux but less lumens, but I don't really understand what the pros/cons are. Is it brighter? throw further? etc. I guess I've always been a little confused on what lux vs lumens really means.

Dan, put very simply, the lux rating is a measurement that it is of primary importance to us flashaholics when we're trying to determine how far downrange a light can effectively project its beam. By using a lightmeter, a measurement of the luminous intensity at a single point in the brightest part of the flashlight's beam (usually the center of the hotspot) is taken. It tells us nothing more, not even how large in area the hotspot might be at that distance - only how intense the light within the hotspot is at a single point in space at a given distance.

Of course the taking of lux readings needn't be restricted to just the area within the hotspot. You could just as easily measure the intensity of the spill portion of the beam by aiming the hotspot slightly away from the lightmeter. But nine times out of ten, flashaholics want that hotspot centered on the light meter so as to be able to estimate the potential throw of the light.

The lumen rating, on the other hand, is simply a cumulative measurement of the total amount of light that a flashlight (or in some cases its emitter) is putting out in all directions. A specialized sphere is the preferred device for measuring lumens because it, unlike a lightmeter, is capable of recording luminous intensity at many points simultaneously, effectively capturing and measuring all the photons that are being emitted out the end of the flashlight.

Thus it is, that through the use of larger reflectors, optics, aspherical lenses, etc., you can easily have a situation in which one light with a tightly focused beam and high lux rating is easily able to out throw another light producing many more lumens, but with a less focused beam.

Take the example of a mini maglite. If I turn it on and adjust the reflector for the tightest beam, I could shine that hotspot on a lightmeter several feet away and maybe get a lux reading of 1000 cd (an estimate made strictly for illustrative purposes). Now, if I completely unscrew and remove the head of the flashlight using it in candle mode, I may only get a max lux reading of 50 cd at the same distance. In both instances we have the exact same batteries powering the exact same bulb putting out exactly the same amount of emitter lumens. But the luminous intensity is drastically reduced in the second instance because there is no reflector to focus the light energy.

 

[The_Driver]

Dan, put very simply, the lux rating is a measurement that it is of primary importance to us flashaholics when we're trying to determine how far downrange a light can effectively project its beam. By using a lightmeter, a measurement of the luminous intensity at a single point in the brightest part of the flashlight's beam (usually the center of the hotspot) is taken. It tells us nothing more, not even how large in area the hotspot might be at that distance - only how intense the light within the hotspot is at a single point in space at a given distance.

Of course the taking of lux readings needn't be restricted to just the area within the hotspot. You could just as easily measure the intensity of the spill portion of the beam by aiming the hotspot slightly away from the lightmeter. But nine times out of ten, flashaholics want that hotspot centered on the light meter so as to be able to estimate the potential throw of the light.

The lumen rating, on the other hand, is simply a cumulative measurement of the total amount of light that a flashlight (or in some cases its emitter) is putting out in all directions. A specialized sphere is the preferred device for measuring lumens because it, unlike a lightmeter, is capable of recording luminous intensity at many points simultaneously, effectively capturing and measuring all the photons that are being emitted out the end of the flashlight.

Thus it is, that through the use of larger reflectors, optics, aspherical lenses, etc., you can easily have a situation in which one light with a tightly focused beam and high lux rating is easily able to out throw another light producing many more lumens, but with a less focused beam.

Take the example of a mini maglite. If I turn it on and adjust the reflector for the tightest beam, I could shine that hotspot on a lightmeter several feet away and maybe get a lux reading of 1000 cd (an estimate made strictly for illustrative purposes). Now, if I completely unscrew and remove the head of the flashlight using it in candle mode, I may only get a max lux reading of 50 cd at the same distance. In both instances we have the exact same batteries powering the exact same bulb putting out exactly the same amount of emitter lumens. But the luminous intensity is drastically reduced in the second instance because there is no reflector to focus the light energy.

Conclusion:
bigger, deeper reflector => same lumens but more throw => great => varapower turbo really great

 

[bigchelis]

Some lux readings for a few of my other lights.
VPT Dedome 6500k 4xC cells 200,000 lux
VPT Dedome 6500k 3xD cells 138,210 lux
Wolfeyes 24w Boxer HID 83,140 lux
Wolfeyes 10w Boxer HID 69,800 lux
Dereelight DBS-T EZ900 R2 2MT-S, 64,300 lux
Deft EDC 39,100 lux
Deft EDC LR 50,300 lux
Crelant 7G5 56,800 lux
Olight M3X 55,200 lux
Eagletac M3C4 XM-L 41,000 lux
Olight SR92 44,310 lux

Blue LED,
Very nice numbers and good info. Thanks.


I used to use the AEMC CA817 lux meter and take my readings at 5M and calculate back to 1M. For the bigger lights I think 10M may give better numbers.

When I had the DEFT FTP, I got 60K lux out of it when I actually measured at 1M. When I measured at 5M and did the calculation to 1M it was 98K lux. I think I needed to measure at 15M and calcualte back to 1M to get the 120K lux others got. I just ran out of space.

My DEFT EDC got me 35K lux

You have an Aluminum Heatsink on that VARAPower?
I show almost linear OTF lumens with copper to LED bonding but with aluminum its not so.

bigC

 

[The_Driver]

Blue LED,
...

You can have Aluminum Heatsink on that VARAPower?
I show almost linear OTF lumens with copper to LED bonding but with aluminum its not so.

bigC

The turbo has a 0,75in aluminium extender which allows for a longer copper heatsink on the inside and a better heat-transfer to the air on the outside (here).