You DO realize the E1e you mention (at least with the stock bulb) is only about 15 lumens, I hope. Anyway maybe you could try a UK 2AAA xenon which is keychain sized and probably in the 10 lumen range. Or the Princeton Tec Blast is a bit bigger than the UK with similar output with a bigger reflector.
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You DO realize the E1e you mention (at least with the stock bulb) is only about 15 lumens, I hope. Anyway maybe you could try a UK 2AAA xenon which is keychain sized and probably in the 10 lumen range. Or the Princeton Tec Blast is a bit bigger than the UK with similar output with a bigger reflector.
MikeSalt
Flashlight Enthusiast
+1 on that one. Similar in size to a Fenix P1, but with an RCR123 cell and a good bulb. I suppose you can do that with a Surefire E1E, but a dedicated 90ish lumen incandescent would be fantastic.
How about something in a mini-lantern form factor, powered by one or two Sony NP-F970 camcorder packs. Those are 7.2v 6000mAh packs (six 18650's inside) that cost just 30 bucks or so each on ebay. That helps with the resistance and connectivity issue of loose cells. The light should have an LVR type regulator for the incan bulb which I imagine at around 30 watts. It could have a 3 watt incan or LED low beam and a red LED taillight.
1) More Elephants.
2) Perhaps an even wider host that could hold 3 x Emoli or A123 safe Lithium cells in 3s single and double stack options which could allow 3s2p, 2s2p, 4s, 5s, or 6s configurations. These also put out major amps, and if narrowed to your "D Mag" like Elephant, could be used with KIU, new AW D Driver, your FM3H heads. I.D. would need to be about 56-57mm.
3) Quick connect battery holder base, with drop in charger base & refill battery holder sticks. This would allow a quick push/twist to lock battery pack into light/switch head, and hot swap/easy use battery supply. Ideally, the battery holder base would allow user to replace individual cells as they choose. It is another way to give longer run times with easy to replace battery packs.
The current systems you have made require unscrewing the tailcap, taking apart the battery holder, replacing individual cells & reassembly. I think there would be a demand for a ready to go, quick connect spare pack with easy charging option. Your current tailcap charging option plug requires the light to be taken out of operation while you plug charger into tailcap.
4) I think incorporating AW's new D Driver with multi-level brightness (& perhaps waiting for his regulated version--depending on option) gives many new options for many of your light designs, including saving batteries if low setting is used primarily.
5) I have been wondering if it would be possible to make a telescoping tube, extending out in front of a Maglite that you could slide forward & back to reduce side spill. I have tried making tubes out of paper like a Priority Mail envelope that sticks out 5-10 inches in front of lens, and it works very well at narrowing the beam...even at the expense of reducing overall spill lumens. Because of heat, it would need to be made of metal, with a dark, non-reflective coating inside.
6) Have an easy to see battery voltage/LED indicator of charge remaining.
Well I could go on for a long time with many more ideas, but I have probably already lost you.
2) Perhaps an even wider host that could hold 3 x Emoli or A123 safe Lithium cells in 3s single and double stack options which could allow 3s2p, 2s2p, 4s, 5s, or 6s configurations. These also put out major amps, and if narrowed to your "D Mag" like Elephant, could be used with KIU, new AW D Driver, your FM3H heads. I.D. would need to be about 56-57mm.
3) Quick connect battery holder base, with drop in charger base & refill battery holder sticks. This would allow a quick push/twist to lock battery pack into light/switch head, and hot swap/easy use battery supply. Ideally, the battery holder base would allow user to replace individual cells as they choose. It is another way to give longer run times with easy to replace battery packs.
The current systems you have made require unscrewing the tailcap, taking apart the battery holder, replacing individual cells & reassembly. I think there would be a demand for a ready to go, quick connect spare pack with easy charging option. Your current tailcap charging option plug requires the light to be taken out of operation while you plug charger into tailcap.
4) I think incorporating AW's new D Driver with multi-level brightness (& perhaps waiting for his regulated version--depending on option) gives many new options for many of your light designs, including saving batteries if low setting is used primarily.
5) I have been wondering if it would be possible to make a telescoping tube, extending out in front of a Maglite that you could slide forward & back to reduce side spill. I have tried making tubes out of paper like a Priority Mail envelope that sticks out 5-10 inches in front of lens, and it works very well at narrowing the beam...even at the expense of reducing overall spill lumens. Because of heat, it would need to be made of metal, with a dark, non-reflective coating inside.
6) Have an easy to see battery voltage/LED indicator of charge remaining.
Well I could go on for a long time with many more ideas, but I have probably already lost you.
lctorana
Flashlight Enthusiast
No no Lux, all good stuff.
Keep the suggestions coming.
Keep the suggestions coming.
Supernam
Enlightened
I'm with leukos... law enforcement/security etc. need better duty lights. I want the following:
Similar size with current duty lights (SL Stinger, SL-20x)
Waterproof/shock proof
Externally rechargeable
Good beam (MOP or LOP)
1.5 HR Runtime
GOOD BATTERIES, very important... looking for high capacity LiIons like 2C's for stinger sized, and 3D's for SL20x size (when the protected ones come out anyway, or build in a protection circuit into the light and use unprotected cells).
That would be a 2x18500 body with 2.5" head and WA1111. Right?
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Are you refering to Megatinger 5C powers up 1499?
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To power up Strion bulb, you will need at least 1000mAh Li-Ion which is about size of 14670 which is too big for keychain unless step down to Carley 723 using single R123 which is still same size of E1e
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It is possible to make a reflector to fit over reflectorized bulb for narrower beam but to power up mentioned 35 watt bulb you will need at least 5x17670 with a dummy in 2.5D M*g size flashlight.
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Is this similar to FM85 with added regulator?
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Do you mean F cell (33mmDx90mmL) which is basicaly 1.5D or you mean AF which is 18mmDx50mmL ?
ROP low is 11 watt PR drop in.
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Surefire 10X and 9AN have dual bulb and Streamlight uses dual fillament bulb.
Advanced texture reflector have been offered in several flashlights and FM3H-2
BTW, bulb opening area have heavier textured and lens area have SMO or less textured.
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2AA side by side were made by Princeton and Underwater K but not regulated.
For something brighter than A2 and longer run rechargeable, you need 2x18500 or larger.
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Similar to this or even this using 5 or 6 cell bulb will provide long run per charge.
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Isn't 4x14670 in 1D M*g size better than 12AAA?
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To run an WA1111 with over 800 bulb lumens for 2 hours, you will need 3P/2S 18650 like this.
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This would be 2 battery stick of Stinger type side by side which will hardly fit in Elephant body. I think 3P/2S 18650 will serve better.
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What is wrong with Big Leef and why stainless steel? Too heavy.
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That is a good price for 6x18650 but as you mentioned will fit in lantern type square light which is hard to machine.
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1)I agree.
2)57mm ID is even larger than M*g head.
3)To recharge batteries individualy without removing tail cap requires complicated system and hard to seal.
4)That's true. Regulation system will open many doors for different hot wire flashlights.
5)That would only remove side spill without increasing throw or hot spot.
6)That is my dream to see LCD screen flashlight with all information about total run time, remaining run time, bulb age and...
------------------------------
How about regulated WA1166 in rechargeable 4xLi-Ion "C" flashlight with 90 minutes run time?
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leukos
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yes, FM, you have made battery holders and setups that could work, but IMO, there is too much power there for a 5 or 6 cell mag bulb to be used reliably. Probably would need a soft start circuit. I really would like a HA body that can accept a SF M series head and an M6 tailcap that could hold either A123's, D sized li-ions, or 6x 18650 with an integrated soft start circuit. And if I were really dreaming, a circuit that was user adjustable for voltage and amperage output.
Flash Harry
Newly Enlightened
I once got caught short of battery power poking around in an overgrown area trying to flush a prowler. Anything long running in a FM body would be useful. How about something with two hours runtime? Three hours?
And more Elephants.
And more warning when you release anything in Gold-plate. I missed the last two! :mecry:
Daekar
Enlightened
My major desires for incans are:
Same light/runtime in smaller package
Multiple levels
Easy-to-change/charge battery packs or batteries
Regulation
And really... most of those are here already or coming soon.
What I've been looking for (and failing to find) isn't something I want, it's for a gift. My buddy who does security would like a brighter, longer-running but still compact version of his SL Ultrastinger. The perfect thing would be a 3C lion light with a tail-switch, that was compatible with a Surefire M3 or M4 turbohead, and could operate for 90+ minutes. I'm hoping the lumen rating would be somewhere above 350 torch lumens...
LuxLuthor pretty much hit it on the head for most of the other things that I see for improvement.
Same light/runtime in smaller package
Multiple levels
Easy-to-change/charge battery packs or batteries
Regulation
And really... most of those are here already or coming soon.
What I've been looking for (and failing to find) isn't something I want, it's for a gift. My buddy who does security would like a brighter, longer-running but still compact version of his SL Ultrastinger. The perfect thing would be a 3C lion light with a tail-switch, that was compatible with a Surefire M3 or M4 turbohead, and could operate for 90+ minutes. I'm hoping the lumen rating would be somewhere above 350 torch lumens...
LuxLuthor pretty much hit it on the head for most of the other things that I see for improvement.
YAK-28
Enlightened
how about a right angle adpater for a m*g c and d like the uk 4aa unilite? or one to fit your 3x18500 axial set up. what was that oval shaped 3 led walking light? maybe an wa1185 out the front with a multi mode switch and a couple leds for a walk/lantern bottom?(ultimate camper's special)
YAK-28
Enlightened
what about a big beam clone five mega style? you could make a bigger reflector and have bulb choices.
OK, more ideas off the top of my head....and I know 57mm is larger than Mag Head. A compromise would be to use an 27x55mm I.D. oval battery holder that could hold a bi-layer of the 26-27mm Emoli/A123 (includes their cardboard holder).
The only other ways of getting enough voltage from these safe cells is to make a belt battery pack with low resistance cable to hand held lamp head, or you could always make a science fiction type "Flashlight Glove" with lamp protruding above & beyond your fist, and a bracelet of batteries farther back that includes heat and weather insulation.
1) Make a sliding tray with a secure anchor/clip that allows various colors of glass lenses to be interchanged. Would need a slot with tracks in flashlight head, and a round glass lens holder that would slide out, and the user replaces the lens colors in the tray which slides back in--think CD/DVD tray that secures disc when closed.
Could include the standard clear, frosted, red, blue, amber, green, yellow, orange, polarizing. I have no idea who can make glass lenses in heat resistant colors.
2) Higher amp, momentary on switch. The stock mag switch is really pretty cheesy and flimsy.
3) Lower resistance Mag, so people don't have to do all the various "resistance fixes," and can reliably get more voltage where it's needed.
4) Secure anchor in tail with sturdy wrist strap.
5) Swivel-Joint between battery and lamp where lamp could be aimed 90 to 180 degrees relative to battery shaft.
6) Insulated Mags for the coming winter days, where the cold metal is not exactly "hand friendly." My stopgap measure is to use Pachmayr's "Pac-Skin" in the 5x20 size which fits D Mags. Makes holding onto a frozen light easy...with or without gloves.
The only other ways of getting enough voltage from these safe cells is to make a belt battery pack with low resistance cable to hand held lamp head, or you could always make a science fiction type "Flashlight Glove" with lamp protruding above & beyond your fist, and a bracelet of batteries farther back that includes heat and weather insulation.
1) Make a sliding tray with a secure anchor/clip that allows various colors of glass lenses to be interchanged. Would need a slot with tracks in flashlight head, and a round glass lens holder that would slide out, and the user replaces the lens colors in the tray which slides back in--think CD/DVD tray that secures disc when closed.
Could include the standard clear, frosted, red, blue, amber, green, yellow, orange, polarizing. I have no idea who can make glass lenses in heat resistant colors.
2) Higher amp, momentary on switch. The stock mag switch is really pretty cheesy and flimsy.
3) Lower resistance Mag, so people don't have to do all the various "resistance fixes," and can reliably get more voltage where it's needed.
4) Secure anchor in tail with sturdy wrist strap.
5) Swivel-Joint between battery and lamp where lamp could be aimed 90 to 180 degrees relative to battery shaft.
6) Insulated Mags for the coming winter days, where the cold metal is not exactly "hand friendly." My stopgap measure is to use Pachmayr's "Pac-Skin" in the 5x20 size which fits D Mags. Makes holding onto a frozen light easy...with or without gloves.
Raoul_Duke
Enlightened
Love the oval body idea,
I like to see as much crammed in to the light as possible, with no space wasted, (so charging jacks are wasted on me), However it gets harder to manage the heat if you pack in stuff too close when going higher wattages.
Prehaps finding a way to connect the head of the light onto the body using (poor heat conducting) rods to maximise heat protection to the cells and handle)
I like to see as much crammed in to the light as possible, with no space wasted, (so charging jacks are wasted on me), However it gets harder to manage the heat if you pack in stuff too close when going higher wattages.
Prehaps finding a way to connect the head of the light onto the body using (poor heat conducting) rods to maximise heat protection to the cells and handle)
1. REGULATED incands.
2. A 4 battery/12 volt light like a SF 12P with a regular 1 hour 200 lumen lamp assembly, and a High Output lamp assembly of 350 lumens for 20 minutes. An option should be a medium size turbo head of 1.6 to 2 inches like the SF SRTH or the head on the Streamlight TL-3.
SureFire or Streamlight could make my dream come true. "Is there anybody there? Can anybody hear. Does anybody see what I see?"
2. A 4 battery/12 volt light like a SF 12P with a regular 1 hour 200 lumen lamp assembly, and a High Output lamp assembly of 350 lumens for 20 minutes. An option should be a medium size turbo head of 1.6 to 2 inches like the SF SRTH or the head on the Streamlight TL-3.
SureFire or Streamlight could make my dream come true. "Is there anybody there? Can anybody hear. Does anybody see what I see?"
lctorana
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hi Lux,
I have noticed coloured glass lenses sold as MR16 filters, for a price.
At A$16 each, they're not cheap, but it shows they are made.
Oh, and they drop straight into a Maglite...:thumbsup:
sb_pete
Newly Enlightened
I think regulation is the big thing. AW's new driver should fix that and could even include some kind low battery warning by auto switching to a lower output or something. Maybe incorporating a battery charge indicator into the charger would be the easier solution for that requirement. Doesn't seem like that would be too difficult.
For my 2cents though, the main thing missing is user customizability. You have made most of the options one could imagine with the existing tech, but never all at once.
-If your top notch (really, no competition here) battery holders could be had all the time in any reasonable config independent of lights being made- meaning user choice in battery size, _P_S config, and the ability to screw on or off the charging extension and use sealed or unsealed tail caps for water resistance (even better would be a magcharger style charging system for the duty light crowd who can keep a charger handy most of the time, but I know that poses all sorts of probs, on the other hand, I think it wouldn't be too hard to make the bottom of the battery holders have threading around the charger port to which an extension could be added or subtracted as the user and/or weather dictated)
-If someone was doing easily accessible custom mag bodies - a website or posting listing different body/head/tailcap/bezel machining options.
- A simple bezel crenelation - nothing extreme, just the kind that lets you know you left your Mag85 on when you set it face down on a table.
-more choices in stock size reflectors (MOP only as of now), As much as I dream of getting a fm3v, I simply don't have the cash right now and MOP doesn't have the throw I need.
Put more simply, MORE MODULARITY. I love the work you do, I just wish I could pick and choose to make a light that's more me
Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for all of your innovation and great work.
-Pete
For my 2cents though, the main thing missing is user customizability. You have made most of the options one could imagine with the existing tech, but never all at once.
-If your top notch (really, no competition here) battery holders could be had all the time in any reasonable config independent of lights being made- meaning user choice in battery size, _P_S config, and the ability to screw on or off the charging extension and use sealed or unsealed tail caps for water resistance (even better would be a magcharger style charging system for the duty light crowd who can keep a charger handy most of the time, but I know that poses all sorts of probs, on the other hand, I think it wouldn't be too hard to make the bottom of the battery holders have threading around the charger port to which an extension could be added or subtracted as the user and/or weather dictated)
-If someone was doing easily accessible custom mag bodies - a website or posting listing different body/head/tailcap/bezel machining options.
- A simple bezel crenelation - nothing extreme, just the kind that lets you know you left your Mag85 on when you set it face down on a table.
-more choices in stock size reflectors (MOP only as of now), As much as I dream of getting a fm3v, I simply don't have the cash right now and MOP doesn't have the throw I need.
Put more simply, MORE MODULARITY. I love the work you do, I just wish I could pick and choose to make a light that's more me
Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for all of your innovation and great work.
-Pete
Daekar
Enlightened
I was trying to think of other stuff, and I got to thinking, what is the primary design influence when building a typical hotwire? The mag it's built on, what else? So I suggest that if we're looking for additional ways to improve hotwires or try new things, lets try addressing the problems that come with the host light - as a result, these parts/changes would impact a wide variety of mag mods, not just ones with a certain battery configuration. For the sake of brainstorming, I'm going to list off some things that I feel are candidates for improvement in a basic mag with no regard for what has been already addressed with mods or offerings. This is a brainstorm only.
1) As already mentioned, the stock switch stinks. It has high resistance and it doesn't handle heat well. It also takes up too much space so mods are bigger than their battery configurations dictate. Ditch the side-switch for a twisty or tailcap switch, or make a shorter side-switch. (Hotdrivers/regulators excepted, of course)
2) Tailspring stinks. It also has high resistance and takes up too much space. It also sits higher in the tailcap than needed, taking up more space. Make a few different-length low-resistance springs available with tailcaps modded to hold them at the bottom where they belong.
3) Stock reflector stinks. It melts and it doesn't reflect well. Continue manufacturing MOP, but please make SMO and LOP too. Continue with throw-head design with an eye toward cost. Might be nice to have a throw-reflector that fit in the regular head.
4) Stock lens stinks. It melts, scratches, and has lousy transmissive qualities. UCL and Borofloat lenses are much better. Might be nice to get a sapphire lens too.
5) Alkaline batteries...well... stink. The FM battery holders are the standard by which all other battery holders are judged and I love mine. In order to boost sales and improve usability, I suggest continuing with the 6xAA/6x14500/9xAA/9x14500 holders (remember people like building ROPs!) unless the C and D li-ions decrease demand below acceptable levels, but make a complete charger-solution available through you, or at least offer the male charging jack pre-attached to wires with a standard connector on the other end. Just buy the charger, connect the jack adaptor, and plug in.
6) No lanyard attachment point. 'Nuff said.
7) Security/police types like cradle chargers. Might be hard... but then again, it sounds like you might be bored and are looking for ideas...
Last, not a gripe about the mag but an observation:
8) All of this stuff is spread out and its hard to know what's available (I know I've been surprised when I've seen some threads linked to in a discussion). A stickied master-thread of all FM sales threads would make things a lot easier, especially if it also listed smaller items you carry that could be appended to a primary-item order. That would save you from having to update a million different threads if you ran out of Boro lenses, for instance, and it might increase orders of those items with primary items. Finally, I know my mind has an easier time playing with Legos if all the pieces are in front of me - it seems to be the same with flashlights. If all the available parts are presented in one place, I think more people would end up with the hotwire light(s) that they will be happiest with.
1) As already mentioned, the stock switch stinks. It has high resistance and it doesn't handle heat well. It also takes up too much space so mods are bigger than their battery configurations dictate. Ditch the side-switch for a twisty or tailcap switch, or make a shorter side-switch. (Hotdrivers/regulators excepted, of course)
2) Tailspring stinks. It also has high resistance and takes up too much space. It also sits higher in the tailcap than needed, taking up more space. Make a few different-length low-resistance springs available with tailcaps modded to hold them at the bottom where they belong.
3) Stock reflector stinks. It melts and it doesn't reflect well. Continue manufacturing MOP, but please make SMO and LOP too. Continue with throw-head design with an eye toward cost. Might be nice to have a throw-reflector that fit in the regular head.
4) Stock lens stinks. It melts, scratches, and has lousy transmissive qualities. UCL and Borofloat lenses are much better. Might be nice to get a sapphire lens too.
5) Alkaline batteries...well... stink. The FM battery holders are the standard by which all other battery holders are judged and I love mine. In order to boost sales and improve usability, I suggest continuing with the 6xAA/6x14500/9xAA/9x14500 holders (remember people like building ROPs!) unless the C and D li-ions decrease demand below acceptable levels, but make a complete charger-solution available through you, or at least offer the male charging jack pre-attached to wires with a standard connector on the other end. Just buy the charger, connect the jack adaptor, and plug in.
6) No lanyard attachment point. 'Nuff said.
7) Security/police types like cradle chargers. Might be hard... but then again, it sounds like you might be bored and are looking for ideas...
Last, not a gripe about the mag but an observation:
8) All of this stuff is spread out and its hard to know what's available (I know I've been surprised when I've seen some threads linked to in a discussion). A stickied master-thread of all FM sales threads would make things a lot easier, especially if it also listed smaller items you carry that could be appended to a primary-item order. That would save you from having to update a million different threads if you ran out of Boro lenses, for instance, and it might increase orders of those items with primary items. Finally, I know my mind has an easier time playing with Legos if all the pieces are in front of me - it seems to be the same with flashlights. If all the available parts are presented in one place, I think more people would end up with the hotwire light(s) that they will be happiest with.
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