Why low mode first on LED lights? Suggestions?

[soloz2]

My biggest gripe with my LD01 is that it comes on in medium first and I have to cycle to get low. I would rather have low first then cycle if I need more light. My rogue 2s do the same... Making them perfect for keeping my my car but not so great for bedside use.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

 

[twl]

Sounds like you probably like the JetBeam B-series lights. I do too. This simple set up makes a lot of sense to me - On & Off, in High or Low.

Well actually, I use the Malkoff lights which have that UI.

But the concept is used by a variety of manufacturers.

And it makes sense to me too.

 

[Grizzman]

I just bought the SC51 and I do love it, except for the accidental activation of the switch, while in the pocket. If this were not a problem, I would stop looking. Yes, I may be too picky here.

My H502D also has come on a couple times while in a pocket, and I've only carried it that way ummmmmm three times so far. From now on I will just lock out the battery cap first. I've thought about getting one of their handheld lights, but the need to lock it out to pocket carry it is not cool.

Grizz

 

[Joe Talmadge]

I think we've lost sight of the original request being for "mini" sized AA lights, not full sized. There are definitely more full sized AA lights with better UIs and more controllability. I'd thought the Zebralight might be the closest you could come to mini-sized, but I think someone else got the best answer above: for under $50, the Nitecore EZ AA is mini-sized, and while it doesn't technically come on in high, you can get to high with one motion. It's the best and most affordable fit for the OP, in my opinion. If he's going to go past mini-sized to standard-sized AA lights, then obviously that opens up a whole bunch of other options.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

I just bought the SC51 and I do love it, except for the accidental activation of the switch, while in the pocket. If this were not a problem, I would stop looking. Yes, I may be too picky here.

I don't think that's being picky at all. I would actually consider it a serious design flaw. A light that can easily turn on while being carried in a pocket is a light that I will refuse to carry.

 

[jbrett14]

i understand the need for more light during the day. your eyes are adjusted to the ambient light, so low is not effective when you need to peak into darker spots.

It's nice to see another member understand this.

My mistake was assuming that most folks use their EDC lights "during the day... to peak into darker spots", where "low is not effective".

I assumed I was an average fellow. Apparently not, given the number of guys who prefer low mode first.

I am curious to know how many of you low mode guys are blue collar workers vs. white collar workers. I wonder if this has anything to do with preference.

Jonny

 

[jbrett14]

I think we've lost sight of the original request being for "mini" sized AA lights, not full sized. There are definitely more full sized AA lights with better UIs and more controllability. I'd thought the Zebralight might be the closest you could come to mini-sized, but I think someone else got the best answer above: for under $50, the Nitecore EZ AA is mini-sized, and while it doesn't technically come on in high, you can get to high with one motion. It's the best and most affordable fit for the OP, in my opinion. If he's going to go past mini-sized to standard-sized AA lights, then obviously that opens up a whole bunch of other options.

I very much appreciate this post Joe. I felt that way after reading several posts that had nothing to do with "mini AA" lights. I just figure there are many folks with A.D.D. Kidding! But seriously, thanks for the post.

 

[jbrett14]

Its a LMH twisty. Very nice build quality for price. Been EDCing one for a couple years. I like the hard Ano III Nat. Mine is mostly covered with strips of bicycle inner tube.

IMO the Maratac AA is a small, inexpensive, straightforward EDC that the average person will never even notice he's carrying.

I run mine on Ennloops.

I should have clarified. I meant the Maratac AA REV.2 , which apparently only has 2 modes. I was wondering if this new revision still comes on in low, or high? What about the AAA version?

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

My mistake was assuming that most folks use their EDC lights "during the day... to peak into darker spots", where "low is not effective".

Even given this scenario, I still find a light with low first to be more generally useful rather than specifically useful. Cycling modes (or in my case turning a dial) to get higher power when needed is not a big deal to me. If it's something you're constantly reaching for then you might consider a compact single mode or programmable light because most "mini" flashlights are designed for general use and are really not intended to be run flat-out at full power for more than a couple of minutes because of heat issues.

 

[Sub_Umbra]

I should have clarified. I meant the Maratac AA REV.2 , which apparently only has 2 modes. I was wondering if this new revision still comes on in low, or high? What about the AAA version?

I don't have one but I think it comes on on high.

 

[HighlanderNorth]

That Thrunite sounds like an interesting UI which sounds better, to me, than having to twist back and forth.

Does that BC-10 not feel too bulky in the pocket?

I agree with you about why would anyone need 200-750 lumens for common use. But I was talking about MINI 1 x AA lights, most of which seem to be around the 100 lumen mark, which is about what I personally need for most of my EDC tasks, such as general home repair work, looking into customer's attics, crawl spaces, and other dark areas that need to be WELL LIT for me to see details (plumbing, electrical, damage, etc.). 30 Lumens doesn't cut it, not even for looking under the hood of my vehicle when need be. Yes, you can see with it, but it is so much clearer with 100+ lumens.

The Thrunite Ti was on sale for $5 apeice with free shipping from Thrunite's new-ish online retail store as a customer appreciation deal, than they raised it to $10 apiece with free shipping(which is when I bought mine), then it went up to $15 w/free shipping, and I think its still there at http://thrunite-store.com/ and they've got several other deals where they sell you one light for cheap, then give you a free Thrunite Ti. They seem to have a CR123 light and a AA lights that both come with fre Ti's for $29.99, and both have a similar UI. By the way, its not really Titanium, so I dont know why they call it the Ti, but its thick type 3 anodized aluminum and its a tough light. There is no twisting the cap back and forth to get between modes.

The BC-10 is the same basic size as most CR123 lights, and I carry it in my pocket every day and usually dont notice its even there. They are pretty cheap too at $34, and have 2 modes.

 

[LG&M]

Ummm, you know the D25A clicky is a LMH sequence....I got one, it's a great light.

Is it ? looking at the site I thought it was H/M/L .I will check it out again.

 

[HighlanderNorth]

"Tactical lights" virtually all will come on in High mode, because that is what the priority in a tactical light is.
But in other lights, there may be other priorities.

For me, I always use the Low mode whenever possible, and only switch to Hi when the Low mode is insufficient. But in my lights, I don't really have a moonlight mode for Low(except for my HDS).
My Low modes are bright enough to do most things in my general vicinity, with most of my lights. Typically 10-50 lumens are the Low modes, depending on which light I'm using.

My preference for mode switching is a rotating head for Hi and Low selections, with a on/off/momentary clickie on the tail. This allows me to turn on the light in either hi or low from the off position, and get exactly what I want, without any confusion or error or delay. My preferred set of modes is Hi and Low. I have no use for a smorgasbord of various light levels.
With this method, I can select if I want Hi first, or Low first, from the off position without cycling thru any other brightness modes. And I can select momentary or latched with the tailswitch clickie. And I get exactly what I want immediately with the first click.
That's all I need.

You'd like the Jetbeam Ba-10 or BC-10 lights. The price is $34 for either, they both have 2 modes that you access by twisting the bezel AFTER you press the rear clicky switch, so you can leave it on either high or low and always acess that mode when you click the rear switch. No repeated clicking of the clicky to cycle through all the modes you dont need to get to the mode you do need, and no strobes or SOS to get in the way. They are both tough lights, and both have the XP-G for moderate sized beam width, but also nice throw for their size.

To Sub_Umbra : Are you knocking the Volt? Why, they sold a full 200 of them since their inception from what I recall!! Thats a higher number than the number of cups of lemonade I was able to sell at 10 years old in our rural development one fine afternoon, so I'd call that a big win! The Chevy Volt has made global warming a thing of the past just as planned!

 

[Fireclaw18]

Is it ? looking at the site I thought it was H/M/L .I will check it out again.

I have a D25a clicky.

If you have the bezel screwed all the way in it comes on in high first. A half click moves it to strobe and then back.
If you have the bezel slightly unscrewed, then the light comes on in low first. Half presses will cycle it through ascending medium modes. When it runs out of medium modes it will go back to low and then cycle medium modes again, then start cycling through various strobe and SOS modes.

Hit the switch to turn off the power and leave it off for over a second or so and the light resets. There is no mode memory. In that respect you get the best of both worlds: For those who like there light to come on high first just leave the bezel screwed in. If you want low first just unscrew it a couple degrees before hitting the power. Very simple interface and it works quite well.

 

[leon2245]

I'm here to discuss mode sequences (in reverse order of preference):

5. H-M-L
4. L-M-H
3a. H-H-H
3b. L-L-L
1. M-M-M


I've seen a few multimodes that start in medium, except I think they were all cycle-through modes.

 

[Empire]

I have a D25a clicky.

If you have the bezel screwed all the way in it comes on in high first. A half click moves it to strobe and then back.
If you have the bezel slightly unscrewed, then the light comes on in low first. Half presses will cycle it through ascending medium modes. When it runs out of medium modes it will go back to low and then cycle medium modes again, then start cycling through various strobe and SOS modes.

Hit the switch to turn off the power and leave it off for over a second or so and the light resets. There is no mode memory. In that respect you get the best of both worlds: For those who like there light to come on high first just leave the bezel screwed in. If you want low first just unscrew it a couple degrees before hitting the power. Very simple interface and it works quite well.

Same as my quark

 

[M@elstrom]

The newer Energizer 1AA light has an automatic timeout function if left on (or accidentally activated) combined with a variable output control...

 

[orbital]

+

Would you buy a really powerful blender that's FULL BLAST at startup..





..

The only reason I never considered a Wolf-Eyes light, is that they always started on High

 

[moldyoldy]

Awesome responses gentlemen. I really appreciate the posts. I hope it is understood that I was not looking to argue, but rather, to understand.

Perhaps my eyes are worse than I thought, as I just don't ever see much need for LOW being the first setting, as far as a general purpose EDC use (not a light used for bed-side, hiking, or camping). I tend to fix things a lot and do a lot of checking things out in dark places (crawl spaces, attics, basements, garages, etc.). I wrongfully assumed that these were common actions by most folks. Apparently not. I guess I am in the minority after all, as "night vision" issues have never been an issue for me.

Also, for anyone willing to offer any more suggestions, please understand that I was hoping for MINI 1 x AA lights - the smaller the better. I love the JetBeam's easy UI on the BA lights but their 1 x AA light is a bit large for my pocket.

Fenix offers the LD15 in 1xAA format and not much larger than the AA cell, and which comes on in HIGH first, then low. two modes only. The LD15 is the single most successful gifted light I have - to non-flashaholics. Nearly all non-flashaholics seem to want a high mode first, although the high mode is not a lot more than 100 lumens.

and that may point up another differentiation between flashaholics and non-flashaholics. Most of the flashaholics still have good eyesight with good sensitivity in the "dark". The definition of dark changes with age.... Most non-flashaholics are older and their eyesight is not so good any more, especially when it is darker. As my opthamologist said, the lens of the eye will color with age, no exceptions. The rate of the coloration mostly depends on how much sunlight the lens was exposed to. That also means that the perception of color is also degraded with age. Yes, lens replacement (cataract surgery) can mitigate some effects of aging, but the retina ages as well. IOW in time, most of the flashaholics advocating super low lumens will be forced to face the reality of aging. Believe me, it is not pleasant.

 

[stp]

I agree with you about why would anyone need 200-750 lumens for common use. But I was talking about MINI 1 x AA lights, most of which seem to be around the 100 lumen mark, which is about what I personally need for most of my EDC tasks, such as general home repair work, looking into customer's attics, crawl spaces, and other dark areas that need to be WELL LIT for me to see details (plumbing, electrical, damage, etc.). 30 Lumens doesn't cut it, not even for looking under the hood of my vehicle when need be. Yes, you can see with it, but it is so much clearer with 100+ lumens.

If repair and work is your main usage scenario, then you should check H51 (or H502 - I don't have it, so I can't personally recommend it) There is nothing better than having two free hands when you work on something and additionally always having the light pointed in direction when you are looking. And there is more ;-) the H51 has much, much less self activation issues than SC51 thanks to different switch placement - but it's still the same switch AFAIK. I had it self lit in my pocket only once during over a year carry pocketing (I don't lock it). I'm using H51w with dc-fix.

Now to your arguments:
-If you are working in confined spaces then I don't quite understand how 100 lumens may be optimal for you because it really depends of the surroundings. If there is white wall or lots of reflecting metal surfaces you will blind yourself when working close. If there is brick wall, wood, lots of spider webs and dust (btw. dust in the air can blind you too with reflected light or not, it depends) it could be not enough.
Of course if you are using flash light and you work on something you probably leave it somewhere stationary (guessing here) and base on reflected light. This way you will not blind self often but if you really work in confined spaces then you know that it's suboptimal lighting because you often cut it with your body.

- I don't know where and how you live but most of us sleep around 8 hours per day which leaves 16 hours. In all places on earth you will be in the dark for some time during that 16 hours at last part of the year. So I don't really understand the you are awake when it's bright argument.

-When I go to sleep I put my edc from my pants pocket and put it close to my bed. I don't sleep in my pants doh. I'm not alone doing this.

-Low mode first is very important if you want to respect other people eyes or their sleep. When my wife is sleeping and I have to go into/out of bedroom the low mode is the way to go. If I'm camping with other people the low mode is essential to not blind each other. Companies making headlamps with high mode first are stupid or targeting people camping alone.

-Dark adapted vision not only matter in some commando-ninja-tactical scenarios. It matters when you use light anywhere. If you will blind yourself even little then from that point you need more light for at last few minutes to see the same as you saw before blinding. And this equals to shorter battery life. If you are in confined space then 170 lm from my H51 or even 100 lm reflected from other objects can temporally lower my eyesight abilities. If I work on bigger thing that needs time it may made difference between needing battery replacement or not.
And if you don't believe that it really matters just think why do you really believe that you need high mode first to look under the car or behind the tv during a day? It's because your eyes are adapted/"blinded" by day light. So it's kinda self-fulfilling prophecy: you are using high mode all the time because you don't believe that the low light is useful enough, the low light is not useful for you because you lowered you eyesight abilities with high mode few seconds before.

This is why low mode first or smart interface is the way to go IMHO.