ZebraLight H502 XM-L

[CrazyM]

well im definitely no expert, but from zl site's specs, h52f is a narrower flood than 502, 90 degree vs 120, and it's achieved by frosted lens, instead of _____(?)

H52 - Reflector + Clear lens
H52f - Reflector + Frosted lens
H502 - Clear lens

 

[DIΩDΣ]

when the battery is very low, and the light is on L3(0.06lm), it would cut off 1 sec after i turn it on. but if i double click it before it turns off itself, it would go up to L2(.34lm), and it would stay on. strange behaviour

I dont believe you are going between those two modes. Your toggling between L1 and L2. It shuts off on L1 but if you double click into the lower mode, it stays on, and that would make sense. L1 will always be one of the two modes, you cannot change that I am aware of, while L2 can be programmed to levels of your choosing.

Hi guys
because I don't have the patience to read all this thread, can someone tell me
some differences between this headlamp and the h52fw.
i have looked at the IS site and I see that they are very similar...
so am I missing something here?

The 502 is like a bare LED and will have a much more even and much wider area coverage (but spread out so much more will appear to be much less lux). The 'F' models will not spread nearly as wide or as even but will more light out in front of you, and still be much smoother than the regular lights that have a much smaller and distinct bright hotspot. Beamshots/video review would make the distinction very clear. Search around, or maybe sometime this week I can try and do a few comparison shots.

 

[LlF]

I dont believe you are going between those two modes. Your toggling between L1 and L2. It shuts off on L1 but if you double click into the lower mode, it stays on, and that would make sense. L1 will always be one of the two modes, you cannot change that I am aware of, while L2 can be programmed to levels of your choosing.

You are right, it should be L1(2.7 lm) instead of L2 in my post.
I set the double click between L1 and L3. It would turn itself off on L3, but stay on on L1, (then when the power get too low it would start to blink, rather than a shut off)



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[Diablo_331]

My (now lost) SC52W would also behave this exact way. I never got to see if it would blink rather than shut down on a low cell though. Is this blink like bad PWM?

My SC51C does this on an almost depleted cell after it has stepped down first to medium then low. If I try to turn it back on a medium mode the driver doesn't step down and instead has a horrible PWM. Like a very fast variable strobe. If I then turn it to one of the two low modes, it's stable until the battery cannot hold whichever low mode I have selected at which point the PWM comes back. This is never an issue in use for me though because I'm anal about having a fresh Eneloop in my precious at all times.

This never bothered me with my SC52W because the lowest low level is unusable for my my uses.

 

[DIΩDΣ]

You are right, it should be L1(2.7 lm) instead of L2 in my post.
I set the double click between L1 and L3. It would turn itself off on L3, but stay on on L1, (then when the power get too low it would start to blink, rather than a shut off)

If your certain you're in those two modes, then I'm not sure since in the few years I have had Zebras the very few times I've depleted a cell down to medium-low I've always swapped cells, and my 502 becomes to dim for most things under medium anyhow. Its quite possible the light starts acting squirrely when your down to the point of loosing some low modes, and a lot of that could be the battery itself. But can you really be sure what modes your clicking between when the light has stepped down automatically? I know I tend to forget when the light dims and I instinctively double click thinking I am in a lower mode, only to discover the brightness did not change, then double click again and no change, then I lost what mode I was in. And I'm not really even sure if the ZL stays in your programmed modes anyhow when it starts ramping down?

 

[LlF]

If your certain you're in those two modes, then I'm not sure since in the few years I have had Zebras the very few times I've depleted a cell down to medium-low I've always swapped cells, and my 502 becomes to dim for most things under medium anyhow. Its quite possible the light starts acting squirrely when your down to the point of loosing some low modes, and a lot of that could be the battery itself. But can you really be sure what modes your clicking between when the light has stepped down automatically? I know I tend to forget when the light dims and I instinctively double click thinking I am in a lower mode, only to discover the brightness did not change, then double click again and no change, then I lost what mode I was in. And I'm not really even sure if the ZL stays in your programmed modes anyhow when it starts ramping down?

you are right it's not practical at all to keep using the light with an empty battery. i'm doing this just to play with it. im still in awe with zebralight's design/style

 

[LlF]

does anyone else's button sometimes swell up? normally the click is very direct and.. decisive.
lately i sometime find it, like there's air under the rubber, i have to press down first before i hit the click.
maybe it's the sudden change of temp?

 

[markr6]

does anyone else's button sometimes swell up? normally the click is very direct and.. decisive.
lately i sometime find it, like there's air under the rubber, i have to press down first before i hit the click.
maybe it's the sudden change of temp?

I had three Fenix E11s and one of them was like that all the time regardless of temp.

 

[LlF]

i think i find out the problem, or at least a way to reproduce the issue.
when the light is without the end cap, the click is good, when I tighten the cap without a battery, the click is also good.
but when I load it with a battery and tighten it, now the rubber button would swell up.

my diagno/guess is that I put too much lube on the threads and theres no way for air to escape, ill have to clean the treads when I have the time and see if that fix the problem.

 

[Diablo_331]

Try the old HDS Clicky trick and hold the button down before and while you're screwing down the tailcap. It may be just enough to give it some click back.

 

[LlF]

Try the old HDS Clicky trick and hold the button down before and while you're screwing down the tailcap. It may be just enough to give it some click back.

Tried this... yes it helped, but still not perfect.

on the other hand, i guess i can say mine is waterproof??

 

[tongkang]

Hi guys..old thread by new to me..,
after doing some reading from page 1 and found no info about my case..I just realized that the spec on this H502 headlamp came with no 3.7V batt allowed..but in my case I have using IMR for the 1st day I bought and that is about 5-6 month ago if I can recall correct..yesterday I measured the DCurrent on my H502 using [email protected] is 0.9A max on high vs 2.15A on [email protected] with my cheapo DMM..anyone using liIon got any issue please?