surefire L1, or E2L outdoorsman?

rev_jch

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I am new here, and was wondering if you guys could help me please? I am looking at buying a surefire L1, or a E2L outdoorsman and was wondering which one would better suit my needs? I am buying it for hiking, backpacking and camping (and general outdoor use). I currently use a streamlight twin task II, but it tends to be a little on the heavier side (and bulky). I also have a 5 LED cabela's light, but it really doesnt quite have enough brightness. I also have a tacstar with a 65 lumen (xenon) bulb, but only has an hour of burn time. I was looking for something that was light, tough, and had some useable light, more than just a coupel hours.

Thanks,
Sincerely
John
 

greenLED

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Welcome to CPF, rev_jch!

That's a tough question as both lights have their strengths, potential disadvantages, and some compromises between runtime and brightness (can't have both!). Brigther incandescent lights won't have very long runtimes (typically around 45-60 minutes to 50% output).


Edit: :stupid: I read "outdoorsman" on the the thread's title and immediately thought e2o. So, read this with a grain of salt, as a comparison between L1 and e2o (not e2L).


I very much like my L1 because of the 2 stages. I'm still on the fence about the tight beam. Sometimes I think it's great, sometimes I wish it had some more sidespill so I didn't have to "paint a scene" to see the whole picture.

A couple of reasons I'd favor the L1 over the E2o:
- it uses only 1 battery
- it has 2 stages, making it very versatile for outdoors
- output is regulated (doesn't dim, like incandescent lights do, as batteries are exhausted)

A couple of reasons I'd get the e2o (I have an e2e, for comparison):
- bright light
- decent "throw" and nice sidespill
- OK runtime (although it dims as batteries get used)
- its modularity with other Executive series parts (KL1, KL4, MN03, beam covers, beam filters, e1x body, McGizmo's Aleph accessories, etc.)

A couple of common reasons:
- small size
- bombproof construction
- SF's warranty

Is that clear as mud? Have you checked out flashlightreviews.com and theledmuseum.org for reviews and other lights?

Once you're ready, check out my CPF Specials thread - might save a buck or two in your purchase.

More edit, to actually answer the question: :)
The only KL1 I've used was ever so slightly brighter than my L1; beam patterns were identical, slight different tint. I still prefer the 2 stages of the L1 over the e2L (but you can get a 2-stage switch for it) and stick with the longer runtime.

Devil's advocate mode: get a headlamp. :whistle:
 
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Blindasabat

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I agree 100% with greenLED.
I'll only add that I think the two level output of the L1 should not be underrated. You will typically use high on any multi-stage light for only a small fraction of the time you need light. I just got my L1, but have many multi-stage lights, and the low levels are good enough for walking around in the dark (campsite, basement, or garage) and digging through a gear bag. The L1 will last a lot longer on it's one battery than the E2L (a great light mind you) if you only use the light level you need. I have used my A2 for a couple of months and get along with just the low level LED's 70-90% of the time. Half of the time I used the high Xenon just to show it off or casually look around because it was new. Because of that, it's still on the original batteries.
I used my L1 last night for multiple trips to the basement because my basement switch is in a bad location, and I only used high once to look around the laundry room to quickly see if I had dropped any socks. With that useage, it will last 6-8 hours with high instantly available the whole time. You will find you use the light more overall if it won't blind others, and you know you aren't burning up your batteries so fast.
Plus, the low level retains most, if not all of your night vision.
 

cheapo

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these two wouldnt be the "best" choice in terms of camping.... for camping, a light that uses a reflector would be very beneficial.

-David
 

nc987

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I own a E2L and use it extensively. Great all around light. With that said I had a option here to get a L1 for 57 bucks recently and went with is simply because its got two levels and I have an addiction.

i can only vouch for the E2L as i havent received the L1, but its great light. The throw is amazing. Runtime is awesome. Only complaint is when trying to use it up close for reading and such, its a little too bright. Thats why im getting the L1
 
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SCblur

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One thing to keep in mind is the beam pattern between the L1 and E2L are virtually identical, and the output is very close 2050 vs. 2300 respectively, according to Flashlightreviews.com. The L1 even pumps out an impressive 2 hours to 50% on high from a SINGLE cell. If it were me, I would go with the L1 hands down because everything else being so similar to the E2L, you have the additional selling poing of two light levels. Once you use a multi-level light, you won't want to go back. Perfect way to combine runtime and brightness in a single light.

PS. I would highly recommend picking up an F04 beamshaper from SF. It will give you the option of a diffused flood beam when you need a break from the lightsaber effect characteristic of the SF optics.
 

rgc

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Have the L1, love the L1, use the L1 alot. My is not the newest generation with the TIR optic, however, it has good throw and decent spill and the low is great for close up stuff. Would go with the L1 here.

That said, if it were me I would buy a Peak Pacific AAA HA III, get the AA body (key chain style). I think you might be looking at $60 bucks for this and on a single lithium AA it will have a nice flat regulation of 12 hours. My Pacific is almost just as much throw and a lot better side spill as my L1 on high (my L1 is red LED if that matters). Then I would get a Princeton Tec EOS. Great throw on high for night hiking and on low it is a good work around camp light. I believe the EOS is around $35. Both for about the same (maybe a little less then) as the Surefire L1. Plus, if you used the AAA body on the Pacific you would only need one type of extra batteries.

Happy hunting for your new light(s),
rgc

Eddited to add that if you use AAA lithium battery it will be around 4 hours of good regulation before she begins to drop. I like the 12 hours with the single AA lithium battery . . . just a great light . . . great combo with the EOS and the Pacific (which you could put on a neck lanyard for hiking).
 
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grnamin

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I would go with the E2L because of the versatility of the KL1 head. You can use it with 1x123, 2x123, 1xR123, 2xR123, 1xPila 168S, etc. Just change the battery tube. If you mod it, you get an even better light. :)
 

TonkinWarrior

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Rev JCH, welcome to CPF. May your journey here be illuminating and joyful... albeit not too expensive!

Both the SF L1 and E2L LED lights could meet your needs. However, given the E2L's 1 hr. advantage in runtime (to 50%), THAT one should get the nod.

The E2L is simply one of the most versatile, reliable, and size-efficient lights out there. Many find it to be the perfect Every-Day-Carry light, as well. It's probably the all-purpose "compact SUV" of flashlights.

I find the low-level option on lights like the neat L1 to be an impracticle annoyance, but many would differ. I advise getting a small, low-output 2nd LED light (like an Arc, or Peak Matterhorn, or CMG/Gerber Infinity Ultra) for inside-the-tent tasks and other close-up stuff. You could also just slap a beam-shaper on your E2L to diffuse the beam, but one of these additional keychain-type lights makes a great (and highly recommended) back-up.
 

JNewell

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I would probably choose the L1 for its slightly more compact size and regulated two level output but as the post above indicates it's not the only choice. I strongly agree with the idea of keeping keychain lights around for various purposes. They weigh nothing, cost little and give you the option of not depleting the batts in your main light, or giving a light to another person, or...lots of other possibilities.
 

Chronos

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I've got an L1 and a F04 beamshaper. Just like the FM34 on my Gladius, it completely alters the "personality" of this little light. It now has a nice, even flood beam which is great for picking out the trail and digging through packs. FWIW I also have a red L1 and am really amazed at the brightness. As said before, once you get a multi-stage LED you'll find it hard to ever settle for a single stage LED again.

I have to admit that I was quite skeptical about all the raves Surefire lights receive on these forums. Then I bought my first and then quickly a second. I have to hand it to them- these are extremely high quality lights.
 

Bullzeyebill

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I recommend the E2L, as the KL1 head regulates at 3-9 volts, so you can use two RCR123's, or add an extension from Lighthound.com, and run three CR123's, or two 17500 protected LiIon's, for looooong runtime. I do this with my KL1 head.

Bill
 

rev_jch

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Guys,
thank you for all of your input! I really appreciate it!! You've been a great help!!!

After considering both options I decided to go with the L1. I read some reviews on it and it seems to be fairly practical for what I need. I really like the idea of having a two stage light that lasts a fairly decent amount of time. I was in survival in the AF for 8 years (active duty) and am use to using low-level lights outdoors (especially since it helps preserve night vision).

greenLED, I also have princeton tec yukon HL that I carry in my pack, so with this other one I should be covered okay). Also, thanks for the links! I ordered a L1 from tactical supply and saved almost $30.00! :)

Thanks again!!

Sincerely
John
 

frankbyerswat

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E2L of course.
I think The LED' s wave-length is not fit so much for outdoor use,but prefect to indoor or close quarter use.because LED's light not intense for dark color,(wood,mud etc).
If you want a LED for outdoor use,30 Lumens is necessary.
(I have tried my U2 with highese set,It's not get further than 20 meters)
But Like all click-on tailcap,they are not reliable.you can read:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/121510
Frank
 
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