Adjustable voltage regulator

TigerhawkT3

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I'm looking for something that can deliver a wide voltage range to a device from a relatively high-voltage source. For example, I'll have a 20-24V battery, and I'd like to be able to deliver anywhere from 0.5V to full voltage to a device, with whatever current the device wants to draw. Is there anything like this? I would be fine with a simple mechanical device, as well. What are my options? I really don't know.

The devices are various buzzers, by the way.
 

TMorita

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TigerhawkT3 said:
I'm looking for something that can deliver a wide voltage range to a device from a relatively high-voltage source. For example, I'll have a 20-24V battery, and I'd like to be able to deliver anywhere from 0.5V to full voltage to a device, with whatever current the device wants to draw. Is there anything like this? I would be fine with a simple mechanical device, as well. What are my options? I really don't know.

The devices are various buzzers, by the way.

You might look at these.

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/AnyVolt.htm
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/AnyVoltMini.htm
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/DE-SWADJ.htm

Toshi
 

Doug S

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TigerhawkT3 said:
I'm looking for something that can deliver a wide voltage range to a device from a relatively high-voltage source. For example, I'll have a 20-24V battery, and I'd like to be able to deliver anywhere from 0.5V to full voltage to a device, with whatever current the device wants to draw. Is there anything like this? I would be fine with a simple mechanical device, as well. What are my options? I really don't know.

The devices are various buzzers, by the way.

If you are willing to accept a minimum of 1.25V then the LM317T IC will do nicely. It can be had for under a dollar and with adequate heatsinking can handle up to 1.5A.
 

evan9162

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You can drop the output voltage of the '317 by putting a couple of plain silicon rectifier diodes in series with the output (1n4001, etc). With two diodes added in series to the output, you can get 0V out if needed. If you need more than 1A of current, you can find 3A silicon rectifier diodes to use instead.
 

Doug S

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evan9162 said:
You can drop the output voltage of the '317 by putting a couple of plain silicon rectifier diodes in series with the output (1n4001, etc). With two diodes added in series to the output, you can get 0V out if needed. If you need more than 1A of current, you can find 3A silicon rectifier diodes to use instead.

This trick works and I have used it myself. However output regulation with load and temperature variations (especially with load variation) is poor.
 

evan9162

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Good point. If regulation isn't too important, that will do the trick to get down to lower voltages. If good regulation is needed, there are circuits in the LM317 datasheet that let you go down to 0V, but require a negative voltage rail.
 

TigerhawkT3

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Wow - thanks for the suggestions!

The AnyVolt looks like just what I wanted, except it's a bit big, it's $70, and it's out of stock. It might be nice for testing purposes, but not to use in an actual project.

The AnyVolt Mini looks a little harder to use, but I really like the size and the lower price. However, I'd like a higher maximum voltage than 13V.

The LM317T has a much nicer price, but looks a lot more complicated than I was hoping for. I'd rather not have to buy additional components (e.g. resistors, etc.) to make it work.

How about those potentiometers (pots) at kelvin.com? What effect do the various resistances have?
 

MrAl

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Hi there,

It helps to know what kind of current you are drawing.
If you draw say 1 amp at 4 volts and you power from a 24 volt battery
you will waste 20 watts of power in ANY linear arrangement you choose.
For this a switcher would do much better.

For very low currents and devices like i think you are talking about sometimes
a single resistor will suffice, but it would help to know more about what
voltage and current your devices have to run at normally.
 

TigerhawkT3

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The various models I have use between 5 and 50mA at 18V. I'm thinking of wiring up 24 10mA (at 18V) ones in parallel, so that's about .25A.

They can all use pretty much any voltage, although their maximum rated voltage is 20V (they could probably do fine with a few extra volts). They're just weaker at 1.2V (NiMH) and really pretty powerful at 18V (6xCR123A).

Switcher?

Does anyone know about those Kelvin pots I mentioned in my previous post?
 

VidPro

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http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/FK808
if you got a solder gun, and can solder normal sized parts, kits like these are cheap, and require little to no thought.
a Voltmeter could be added for about 5$
one of them close enough for goverment work things, good for LESS than 1 Amp
add a better heat sync, or just a hunk of aluminum, or put in aluminum case, mounting regulator thing to case.
 
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TigerhawkT3

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You know... that kit is pretty cool! It's a great reason/excuse to finally buy that soldering iron I've had my eye on.

The kit that can handle 3A says:

"In order to insure reliable, stable operation, it would be best to use a transformer capable of delivering up to 4 Amps. If your current demand is less, you could get by with a smaller transformer as long as it exceeds your current requirements."

Does that mean an AC/DC transformer? Would it need a transformer if powered by an ordinary DC source, like a battery?
 

VidPro

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ya what he said, you can use a AC or DC input on the voltage regulator curcuit that i linked to, cause it HAS on it, a bridge rectifryer setup, that turns your ac into dc.
AND you have to have 1.5V MORE than what your outputting, so if you ran this off of a car battery, its only going to get to 11V or so.
any SIMPLE adjustable regulator curcuit thing drops at least 1V, and the simple cheap diodes can drop at least .5v .

it didnt take long after playing with them things and assembling them to realise the simplicity of the regulator thing itself, so after working with it, i was able to assemble one with just the regulator and a few parts.
like if you initially have perfect DC you can toss out the bridge, and the fat capacitor. then after you make one with only 2 parts, you realise what a few of the other parts are there for :)

the 3A regulator thing is HUGE compared to a 1 amp one, and depending on what your input and output is, pumping the whole 3A through it it gets bloody hot, and needs a good heat sync.

ya average 3A radio shack transformer is working pretty hard at its Max of 3A, so if you use them AT the 3A they smell funny and die, just like my aunt :) oops , nevermind.
its all about what your going to try and pull out of the stuff, if you overrate , like use a 3A regulator, and a 3A transformer, to do a constant 2A , and fuse things too, then it will work for lots of time, under varing conditions.
 
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TigerhawkT3

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I just measured various current draws, and I won't be using more than half an amp. I could easily use the 1A model.

So, if I ran it off a DC source like a battery, I could connect it to the regulator with or without the diodes in place, but if I kept them, then the battery's polarity wouldn't matter?

Are these pretty easy to put together?
 
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