How do your remove stuck D-cells in a Mag 3D?

[NikolaTesla]

MagLites come apart real easy. take a 5/64 allen, loosen up the set screw, pop out the snap ring, pull the switch assembly and beat the stuck cells out with a broom stick. MagLites are very tough and hard to kill.:devil:

 

[Threepio]

I just had the same problem with a SL Twintask 3C. I decided to use a hole saw to gut the bottom cell and peel it out. The saw I used was about the diameter of the exposed metal on the bottom of the cell. It didn't drill, instead the teeth grabbed the cell and spun it out, slick as a whistle. I can't wait to try this on a D-cell light!
Good luck! --Bob

 

[bfg9000]

Energizer guarantee: "We will repair or
replace, at our option, any device damaged by this battery if it is sent with
batteries to Energizer. Guarantee void if user or device recharges battery."
http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/non-rechargeable_FAQ.pdf

 

[Ray_of_Light]

As I pointed out in another thread on a similar subject, I pointed out the problem in Maglites.
The leaking batteries are due to a combination of two factors.

1) The majority of alkaline batteries will leak if subjected to continous current draw in the order of 0.01 - 0.1 mA. This is true even with brand names alkaline, especially C and D size.

The leak is due to the degradation of the chemical "buffer" that don't allow the potassium hydroxide to corrode the zinc, and is caused from this low and continous current flow.
As side note, the leakage wasn't an issue with old alkaline batteries, that used mercury to avoid zinc corrosion.

I have tested alkaline batteries built up to two years ago. I don't have data about the latest revision of Duracell and Energizer batteries. Very likely, they have overcome this problem.
In my tests, Duracell M3 and Energizer Ultimate of 2002 - 2003 manufacture didn't leak.

2) The way the Mag Switch is built, is prone to this small current leakage.

The combination of this two factors creates the classic "Mag with stuck alkaline". You can test if your light is OK - by simply checking the current comsuption at the tailcap with the switch turned off.

Hope this helps

Anthony

 

[etc]

This valuable thread deserves to be necrobumped.

I finally joined the stuck Maglite battery club after 20 years of using them and being careful. Gave one away as a gift. Two years later discover it has been sitting for a year, at times in freezing conditions, with leaked cells. You know how it is. Non-enthusiasts don't care to check their cells every 48 hours like we do. More like once every 48 months. If it runs down, they just leave it there, as if magically, it will start working again.

Stuck so good not sure the WD40 trick will work. I have something even stronger, PBlaster. Worth giving it a try? I think I will send the lite to Energizer.
2d. *sigh*

 

[bykfixer]

Maybe set it a solid surface (with a towel between light and surface), then give it several good whacks with a rubber mallet. Rotating light every so often. That should break the bond as it were. If it's a swelling issue what was said about drilling in a screw like a deck screw or some other widened gripper screw and tug it out with string that has a slip knot on the end.

If that don't work, freeze it a couple of days and repeat the rubber mallet deal when it thaws.

 

[Poppy]

I glanced through this thread and didn't see anyone mention trying a weak acid to break the alkaline corrosion. You might try a little vinegar, see if it will seep through.

Ever try putting a baking soda/water solution onto a corroded car battery terminal? Same thing... different direction.

 

[etc]

Interesting idea.

 

[smokinbasser]

WD 40 is just one "penetrant" I'd personally use PB Blaster liberally and let it set for a day or two and try to move them again

 

[Poppy]

It's true that many professional mechanics prefer PB Blaster to WD40, but IMO WD40 smells much nicer. PB Blaster has a stink that lingers.

 

[Illum]

A combination of the tricks above will work, last time I had to pull a D out of a 3D thankfully it was the cell closest to the tailcap. I drilled a 1/8" hole about 1/3 into the cell, then force fed a 2" deck screw into that hole. A simple pair of pliers and some WD-40 made the extraction very easy

 

[bykfixer]

It's true that many professional mechanics prefer PB Blaster to WD40, but IMO WD40 smells much nicer. PB Blaster has a stink that lingers.

Ah yes, the smell of diesal in the morning...then you realize you got pb blaster all over your shoes last night.

 

[Scourie]

I had this with a buddies 3D a couple of weeks ago. WD40 overnight and then slamming down on a hard surface with tailcap tight, got the 2nd battery out. That didn't work for the 3rd. For that I had to take out the switch and then smash the battery out with a large hammer and 20mm bolt.

I felt obliged to fix it due to it being a modified Mag that I'd passed on to him. Although at the time I did suggest not using alkaleaks.

Rob

 

[bykfixer]

^^ cool!!

I read at the bright guy "flashlight university" that as the alka discharges a chemical reaction occurs. A gas as it were. That rapid discharge or heat are what causes the gas pressure to build quickly enough to 'pop' the casing.
They said 50-70° is best or lights that dischrage slowly (why an incan solitaire doesn't have leakage issues like a 4D for example). They said the ole "remove the batteries" thing but added "particularly when storing in automobiles.

Now what got me was "using white vinegar disolves the corosion on coated parts". That was casually mentioned before on this thread.

I realize this thread is about removing stuck batteries, but figured a little prevention mention may help folks not have to repeat the process of hammering out popped alkalines.

Over the years I noticed the D sized cells tended to be worse at bursting enough to get stuck. I suppose that's because the inside of the casing has enough area for more pressure to build, as in the sheer volume is enough to build more bursting psi than say a triple a.

After reading at the 'University' I took note that my D light issues were in lights stored in heat or used for extended runs and stored with the batteries inside. When done with my 2D mag pro, I immediately remove the cells now. So far, so good. But it's the incan models that slurp up energy the fastest...and those were always the ones with popped batteries.

 

[adrock25]

Unfortunately I usually trash them if I can't shake them out

 

[dcmartin]

Had a 6 D Mag that I thought was lost. Found it with the 6 corroded cells inside..... An absolute nightmare to remove. The first 3 i was able to drill and insert a very large screw, they put up a fight but they came loose. The second 3 were just toast, wound up breaking them up, flooding the tube with WD40 and letting it sit. After a few days, I was able to get them out. The tube was toast and the threads on the tail cap were half gone. Learned a valuable lesson :shakehead

 

[lumen aeternum]

MagLites come apart real easy. take a 5/64 allen, loosen up the set screw, pop out the snap ring, pull the switch assembly and beat the stuck cells out with a broom stick. MagLites are very tough and hard to kill.:devil:

TFFFFFTF << after typing "W" on the next line, it started typing up here. Not the first time on CPF either
There's a hole into which a 5/64 fits, but its round. Nothing catching deep inside either. W

 

[lumen aeternum]

How do you get the snap ring out? lever with a hooked dental pick?

 

[etc]

I had this with a buddies 3D a couple of weeks ago. WD40 overnight and then slamming down on a hard surface with tailcap tight, got the 2nd battery out. That didn't work for the 3rd. For that I had to take out the switch and then smash the battery out with a large hammer and 20mm bolt.

I felt obliged to fix it due to it being a modified Mag that I'd passed on to him. Although at the time I did suggest not using alkaleaks.

Rob

Pray tell, how did you remove the switch if the only way to remove the switch is via the bottom end where the batteries reside? And since the batteries are stuck, this seems an impossibility.

Like in this video - he pushes it out via the tailcap. And you cannot remove it from the front because it's sealed. I am really puzzled.

Pics? Video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W56QPW9Igv4

 

[swampgator]

Somewhere I posted on how I got three stuck cells out of a 3D Mag.

I ultimately had to the drill through the cell closest to the switch and collapse the cell onto itself. Forget if I used any WD-40. But I took a cylinder hone and honed out all the remaining corrosion.